September 16, 2022
One of the great things about travel is the unexpected surprises. I have traveled throughout Spain several times, but for some reason, I never spent time in Portugal. I guess it’s just that magical attraction of Spain that kept me coming back.
Last spring, I decided to retire early from teaching and explore the possibility of residing in Spain. More than half of the people I talked to suggested I explore Portugal, too. Since I had 90 days, I decided to give Portugal a chance.
I planned most of my itinerary based on a friend’s suggestions. She pulled out her photo album from a two-week trip to Portugal, and I took notes.
Coimbra is the only place I picked on my own, partly because of its location. I also liked that it was a university town, the “Oxford of Portugal.”
When I arrive in a new place, I look up gluten-free restaurants. Coimbra ended up being celiac foodie heaven! Additionally, I was staying in a hotel because I couldn’t find a studio apartment that fit my budget and location requirements. That meant dinners out. (While traveling, I prepare most of my food to save money and eat healthily.)
I immediately found eleven restaurants offering gluten-free menus or at least GF dishes. I dined very well on each of the three nights of my stay.
Tuesday night at Refeitro da Baixa, I was first served a delicious gluten-free whole-grain bread with butter and olive oil. The next course was a lovely vegetable soup, and I splurged on the slow-cooked beef in wine sauce with vegetables and potato puree. Enjoying a gourmet meal in a unique environment (a former ceramics factory) without worrying about gluten contamination was wonderful!
Wednesday’s lunch was at Sete. They didn’t take lunch reservations, so I arrived when they opened to be sure to get a table. It had been a rainy day, so I decided to make it a leisurely lunch while I watched to downpour outside. I started with a GF Super Bock and olives, followed by vegetable soup (squash-based) and salmon with vegetables. Every bite was so delicious that I considered scrapping my dinner plans to return.
Wednesday evening, I dined at No Tacho. It was a busy, noisy little place, but the food and service were excellent. My dinner started with a small glass of sparkling wine and an appetizer on the house. Their plan worked; I ordered a glass. I branched out and tried the octopus salad. It wasn’t really my thing, but it was good. Then I had risotto with pork tenderloin—delicious!
Thursday, I took the bus to Fatima. I was in the neighborhood, so I couldn’t miss one of the world’s holiest sites.
I returned with plenty of daylight to spare and decided on Tapas Nos Costas for dinner. I cheated a little, eating Spanish food in Portugal, but it was oh-so-good and not typically Spanish.
First, I had a romantic table for two in a stone alcove. (Would my mystery Portuguese boyfriend magically appear?) I had a salad with orange, roasted fennel, and lamb chops with honey and almonds, both incredible! Room for dessert? Sure. Basque cheesecake with blueberries! Oh, my. I never eat cheesecake. It was moist and lighter than our American stuff!
But wait, there’s more to tell. When in Coimbra, you absolutely must go to Cosi Gelato. All the gelato and sorbet are made on-site with fresh ingredients. The best part is that you can order a small and get two flavors. I went all four days that I was in Coimbra and tried different sorbets every day: avocado-lime, pineapple-mint, mango-coconut, fig, passion fruit…each one was delicious! There are more than 100 flavors that rotate through.
My train left at 1:40 on Friday. I figured I could check out of my room, leave the suitcase at the hotel, run to Cosi Gelato to arrive when it opened, and still get back to pick up my luggage in time. There was some distance to cover, but my legs were in excellent shape from all the Portuguese hill walking. Are you starting to see how food motivates me?
I arrived at noon, and a man I had yet to meet greeted me from behind the counter. I asked if he was the owner, and he confirmed. We had a lovely conversation. He told me about the places I should see in Portugal and showed me pictures of the massive waves in Nazaré, my next stop. I thought, “Could he be single? I think I’m in love!” Heck, I was already in love with the sorbet. I could live happily ever after in Coimbra.
I could have stayed much longer, but there was that train to catch. I honestly will return to Coimbra just to eat at Cosi Gelato. It’s that good! And it is a cool university town.
Wandering Shannon 