The Great Melt

May 16, 2023

Traveling during shoulder season is a great way to save money and avoid crowds. I have been on the road in the American West for seven weeks now. I’ve decided to call this trip “The Great Melt.”

In early April, I enjoyed some end-of-the-season Nordic skiing and a day of snow hiking in Montana. All of the outings were crowd-free, as we saw few other people.

A week later, I was in Park City. Even though the temperatures were rising to the low 60s, there was still some good skiing, especially if you got out in the morning. I literally watched the snow melt away during the week I was there (April 7-14).

I then enjoyed a few days in the Grand Canyon. There was very little snow left in the Grand Canyon, and temperatures were comfortable. Spring break had wrapped up everywhere, so the crowds were manageable. It was a great time to visit!

A week in Sedona followed by another week in New Mexico were all sunshine and comfortable temperatures in the 60s and low 70s. I hiked nearly every day; it was heavenly!

My weekend in Colorado Springs was perfect. I stayed close to the historic downtown and enjoyed a day at the Garden of the Gods. Even though it was a sunny Saturday, the park wasn’t overly crowded, and I could hike throughout in awe of the rock formations.

As it was getting into May, you might think snow time was over. Not this year! There was still quite a bit of snow when I arrived in Breckenridge, Colorado. Nearby Lake Dillon was frozen over but beginning to thaw. The hillsides around it were dry, making for some fantastic hiking.

After a few days in Breckenridge, I started my journey west.

I arrived in Grand Junction, Colorado, in the early afternoon, which allowed me time to explore Colorado National Monument. Talk about uncrowded! Aside from the healthy group of people hiking Devil’s Kitchen, visitors were few and far between. In fact, I would have done more hiking, but the other trailheads I visited were empty, as in no other cars. As a solo traveler, I feel it’s unsafe to be alone on a trail, so I took in the sights and enjoyed walking around at the viewpoints.

When I arrived at Great Basin National Park the next day, I was disappointed that part of the Wheeler Peak scenic drive was still closed due to snow. I was looking forward to taking in the views and seeing the ancient bristlecone pines. Cave tours were limited to two per day, so I had missed out on that opportunity, too. I made the most of what I could see and especially enjoyed the Pole Canyon and Baker Creek areas. I’ll have to return with more time on my agenda in warmer months.

A few days ago, I arrived in South Lake Tahoe, just over the California border. As you probably know, this area experienced record snowfall this year. Some of the mountains surrounding the lake still have quite a bit of snowpack. It’s absolutely stunning!

The downside is that all the state parks are still closed. I imagine they want to clean up all the winter debris before opening them. Many of the hiking trails are not yet accessible, either. The trail I planned to hike a couple of days ago was snowed in. After consulting with a local who assured me it was safe and relatively easy, I ended up hiking a nearby trail to Eagle Falls and Eagle Lake. Most of the path was packed snow, so the route was easy to follow. The views were incredible, and I was thankful for the beautiful Mother’s Day experience. What else would I rather be doing on my special day?

Yesterday, I met a California friend for a snowshoe outing near Donner Pass. Once again, the weather was perfectly clear, and the views were fantastic. As the temperatures climbed into the 60s, the snow became more difficult to navigate. The trip back proved challenging, and I felt fully satisfied with the day’s workout.

Additionally, due to the high snowpack in northern California, I took Yosemite off my itinerary entirely. I’ll have to keep it on the bucket list for a future visit.

So, shoulder season travel in the Western states? My vote is a resounding YES! I can’t think of anywhere else I’d rather be.

Update: May 26, 2023

Every time that I think I have enjoyed my last day of fun in the snow, another opportunity appears.

As I continued working my way north toward Oregon, I first ran into snow in Lassen Volcanic National Park. I just snow hiked a few miles on May 19th, but again, I was fortunate to experience yet another bright sunny spring day!

On May 20, I stopped at Mount Shasta, and the woman at the tourist office recommended that I snowshoe to get the most enjoyment out of my day on the mountain. She told me about a less-popular location where I snowshoed to a beautiful clearing and had the mountain all to myself!

A couple of days later, on May 23, I arrived at Crater Lake. Still tons of snow there! I have to admit, these are some of the best photos of the trip.