June 11, 2024
I’ve spent the past three weeks in the Cyclades, a circle of Greek islands south of Athens.
My original plans did not include Sifnos, but sometimes, Greek ferry schedules cause itinerary changes. I could not go directly from Serifos to Naxos, but I could get a ferry to Sifnos and travel to Naxos from there. Rather than just stopping on Sifnos, I decided to book two nights and cut short my stay on Naxos.
So glad I did! Sifnos is a day hiker’s dream. From the moment I arrived, I knew that I would want to stay longer.
I had just spent a week at a yoga and meditation retreat on Serifos, and one of my fellow participants was on the ferry with me. She had plans to meet a friend who was arriving later in the day, so we stopped at the tourist information office before getting lunch.
The gentleman working there was cordial and helpful. I immediately spotted the hiking trail map and knew I needed no further information. He showed us some of the most popular sights on the island. My new friend had some questions, so I excused myself and checked in at the office where I would get my apartment key. They said I’d be able to check in by 2:00 PM, so I went back to the tourist office to find my friend.
She and I enjoyed a lunch of Greek salad and chickpea soup. The soup is an island specialty; you must try it if you visit! Then she was off to explore the ceramics shops, and I went to get settled in my new place.
There wasn’t time for a hike that afternoon. Well, I could have hiked, but I wanted to rest. And the beach was calling me out for an afternoon swim! I had my plan set for the morning, though.
At 7:15, I took the first bus of the day up to Apollonia. Upon arrival, I spotted the display just for hikers. I was pretty excited, my kind of island! I took the #3 trail through town and onto an ancient path. It was well-marked most of the way.
I stopped at the Panagia Vrsis Monastery. No one was around except for a dog, barking on my arrival.
I noticed the ancient door was open a crack and walked in. Still, I saw no one. A little eerie but quite beautiful. I took a quick tour and got back on my route.
I eventually arrived in Platis Yialos on the beach. I took a snack break at a little park where a local man was getting his workout. I had to contain my giggles as he grunted his way through. Then, he broke out in song. Quite entertaining!
I continued walking up the beach road toward Chrisopigi Monastery. Its location on a rock in the Aegean is one of the island’s highlights.
Around the bend from the monastery lies an inviting beach. It was nearly noon, and I stopped at the beachside taverna for something to eat. Yes! The chickpea soup was on the menu. This version was more like stew and made good fuel to continue the journey. It came with a quarter of a lemon. I have to say, the flavor is magical. (Sorry, I deleted the soup photo!)
I didn’t walk much further, though. I took the #2 trail along the beach and up to another little church before heading to Faros. At that point, I would have had to put in some significant distance to get to a bus stop. I opted for a taxi back to Kamares instead.
My driver was entertaining, playing Greek music for me. We took a side trip to Apollonia so he could pick up some luggage to bring to the ferry port. He pointed me to the local sweets shop to get a treat while he got the suitcases. I had already decided to return, but he confirmed that I must see more of the island someday.
I returned to my little apartment in time for an evening swim before dinner. Such a lovely beach!
Even though I only spent one day hiking on Sifnos, I’m grateful for the experience. When I return, I will stay in Apollonia, as I can start several different hikes from there.
Wandering Shannon 