Since 2018, I have been searching for a simpler, happier life. I first started blogging when I moved to Montana's Flathead Valley. (The earlier posts in this blog chronicle that year and a little beyond.)
In 2022, I embarked on a new journey, this time selling my home, retiring from my teaching position, and taking up a nomadic life. The journey continues...
When planning a travel itinerary, sometimes it takes effort to guess how much time to spend in each place. At times I make adjustments, but I rarely wish I had spent less time in an area. That’s how I feel about Northern California. It’s hard to know how many days to allot if you’ve never been to a place. I’ve visited California several times, but all but one visit was to the coast. I had always heard about the beauty of Lake Tahoe, and I knew I’d easily be able to fill a week there. That part of the itinerary was spot-on.
Snow hiking above Lake Tahoe to Eagle Lake on Mother’s Day 2023Paddle Boarding on Lake Tahoe in May: Gorgeous!
It was the travel from Tahoe to Oregon where I short-changed myself. I had a mere afternoon to see Lassen Volcanic National Park. I could only get a little way into the southern entrance since the main road through the park was still snow-covered. I didn’t even make it to the northern entrance.
Lassen Volcanic National Park
I was also in a rush at Lake Shasta and Mount Shasta. Although I did well with my limited time (one day), I would love to return and see more of the area. In fact, that day at Mount Shasta, I yearned to get a camper van. I could picture myself chilling out for a few days at one of the campgrounds there.
Snowshoeing on Mount Shasta
The main reason for my pressed itinerary was a dog-sitting gig in Bend, Oregon. I knew setting myself up with no-cost accommodations for Memorial Day weekend would be wise. And, indeed, it was a good idea. My canine companion was a sweetheart. I visited local sights like the Newberry National Monument, the Deschutes River, and the High Desert Museum.
Lava Butte at Newberry National Monument near Bend, OregonBenham Falls, Newberry National MonumentObsidian Flow, Newberry National Monument
Tomorrow, I will start making my way back to Washington, my home state. More dog sitting on the agenda, and a Celebration of Life to honor my sister next Sunday. It will be good to be “home.”
Traveling during shoulder season is a great way to save money and avoid crowds. I have been on the road in the American West for seven weeks now. I’ve decided to call this trip “The Great Melt.”
March 31, 2023: Lake MacDonald in Glacier National Park
In early April, I enjoyed some end-of-the-season Nordic skiing and a day of snow hiking in Montana. All of the outings were crowd-free, as we saw few other people.
April 2, 2023: A friend and I hiked a partially thawed cross-country ski trailApril 5, 2023: My cousin and I skied up at Lost Trail Pass on the Montana-Idaho Border
A week later, I was in Park City. Even though the temperatures were rising to the low 60s, there was still some good skiing, especially if you got out in the morning. I literally watched the snow melt away during the week I was there (April 7-14).
April 8, 2023: Skiing the White Pine in Park CityApril 8-9, 2023: Round Mountain Trails in Park City, Utah
I then enjoyed a few days in the Grand Canyon. There was very little snow left in the Grand Canyon, and temperatures were comfortable. Spring break had wrapped up everywhere, so the crowds were manageable. It was a great time to visit!
April 18, 2023: A tiny bit of snow remained at the South Rim of the Grand Canyon
A week in Sedona followed by another week in New Mexico were all sunshine and comfortable temperatures in the 60s and low 70s. I hiked nearly every day; it was heavenly!
My weekend in Colorado Springs was perfect. I stayed close to the historic downtown and enjoyed a day at the Garden of the Gods. Even though it was a sunny Saturday, the park wasn’t overly crowded, and I could hike throughout in awe of the rock formations.
May 6, 2023: No snow in the Garden of the Gods, but the surrounding mountains were still snow-covered.
As it was getting into May, you might think snow time was over. Not this year! There was still quite a bit of snow when I arrived in Breckenridge, Colorado. Nearby Lake Dillon was frozen over but beginning to thaw. The hillsides around it were dry, making for some fantastic hiking.
May 9, 2023: Lake Dillon, Colorado
After a few days in Breckenridge, I started my journey west.
I arrived in Grand Junction, Colorado, in the early afternoon, which allowed me time to explore Colorado National Monument. Talk about uncrowded! Aside from the healthy group of people hiking Devil’s Kitchen, visitors were few and far between. In fact, I would have done more hiking, but the other trailheads I visited were empty, as in no other cars. As a solo traveler, I feel it’s unsafe to be alone on a trail, so I took in the sights and enjoyed walking around at the viewpoints.
May 10: Devil’s Kitchen in Colorado National Monument
When I arrived at Great Basin National Park the next day, I was disappointed that part of the Wheeler Peak scenic drive was still closed due to snow. I was looking forward to taking in the views and seeing the ancient bristlecone pines. Cave tours were limited to two per day, so I had missed out on that opportunity, too. I made the most of what I could see and especially enjoyed the Pole Canyon and Baker Creek areas. I’ll have to return with more time on my agenda in warmer months.
May 11: My best shot of Wheeler Peak in Great Basin National Monument
A few days ago, I arrived in South Lake Tahoe, just over the California border. As you probably know, this area experienced record snowfall this year. Some of the mountains surrounding the lake still have quite a bit of snowpack. It’s absolutely stunning!
May 14: Inspiration Point on Lake Tahoe
The downside is that all the state parks are still closed. I imagine they want to clean up all the winter debris before opening them. Many of the hiking trails are not yet accessible, either. The trail I planned to hike a couple of days ago was snowed in. After consulting with a local who assured me it was safe and relatively easy, I ended up hiking a nearby trail to Eagle Falls and Eagle Lake. Most of the path was packed snow, so the route was easy to follow. The views were incredible, and I was thankful for the beautiful Mother’s Day experience. What else would I rather be doing on my special day?
May 14, 2023: Hiking to Eagle Lake near Lake TahoeMay 14, 2023: Eagle Lake
Yesterday, I met a California friend for a snowshoe outing near Donner Pass. Once again, the weather was perfectly clear, and the views were fantastic. As the temperatures climbed into the 60s, the snow became more difficult to navigate. The trip back proved challenging, and I felt fully satisfied with the day’s workout.
May 15, 2023: On top of the World in our snowshoes near Donner Pass, California
Additionally, due to the high snowpack in northern California, I took Yosemite off my itinerary entirely. I’ll have to keep it on the bucket list for a future visit.
So, shoulder season travel in the Western states? My vote is a resounding YES! I can’t think of anywhere else I’d rather be.
Update: May 26, 2023
Every time that I think I have enjoyed my last day of fun in the snow, another opportunity appears.
As I continued working my way north toward Oregon, I first ran into snow in Lassen Volcanic National Park. I just snow hiked a few miles on May 19th, but again, I was fortunate to experience yet another bright sunny spring day!
Sulphur Springs at Lassen Volcanic NP
On May 20, I stopped at Mount Shasta, and the woman at the tourist office recommended that I snowshoe to get the most enjoyment out of my day on the mountain. She told me about a less-popular location where I snowshoed to a beautiful clearing and had the mountain all to myself!
Mount Shasta
A couple of days later, on May 23, I arrived at Crater Lake. Still tons of snow there! I have to admit, these are some of the best photos of the trip.
We all have those days when things don’t go to plan. Unfortunately, I am a planner. I like to think I can go with the flow, and sometimes I do. But I like having my travels at least sketched out in advance.
Today, in fact, I altered my original plan. A friend had told me about Canyon De Chelly National Monument. Visiting it would take me on a northward excursion out of the way. Still, I figured I had the time and love seeing those “less popular” National Monuments.
Hubbell Trading Post National Historic Landmark
I left Holbrook, Arizona, this morning and headed northeast. The first stop was the Hubbell Trading Post, a National Historic Landmark. There’s a visitor center, and parts of the old trading post are open for visitors and shopping.
The inside of the trading post preserves its original charm with modern goods.I love the baskets on the ceiling of the trading post!Hubbell Trading Post Rug Room
Since I’m a nomad, shopping is not really my thing. But I bought a few gifts, so I have to admit the trading post was pretty cool.
I then continued north to Canyon de Chelly National Monument. When I arrived, it was CLOSED because of flooding. The police officer who was blocking the road said I could go up and around to the other entrance adding 90 minutes to my drive. It would be even further in the wrong direction, so I decided against the idea.
I backtracked south (one of the least scenic stretches of this trip) and stopped to top off the tank. When I went inside, the bathrooms were CLOSED, out of order. What was going on?
I eventually made my way to Red Rock State Park near Gallup, New Mexico. It was 2:45 when I reached the park office, but it was—you guessed it—CLOSED. The posted hours were 8:00-4:00, but a little sign said, “Will return at 8:00.” It was also the strangest state park I’ve ever visited. It looked more like a state fairground with rodeo facilities. Besides Hubbell Trading Post, it had been a day of disappointment. But, as a friend once said, “You can turn a bad day around at any time.”
There were two hiking trails, so I could make something good of the afternoon. I decided to hike Pyramid Rock. A young man came off the trail when I arrived, so I asked him for the report. He assured me it was beautiful and not very far to the top.
The beginning of the Pyramid Rock hike
It was a short (3.4-mile roundtrip) but highly scenic hike.
Signs along the Pyramid Rock Trail encourage hikers at every quarter mile.
When I arrived at the top of Pyramid Rock, I had the space to myself, every hiker’s delight! The day of closed doors ended with a massive open space and marvelous views, just for me.
Sign at the top of Pyramid RockOne of the views form the top of Pyramid Rock
Based on the title, you might think that I’m back in Spain. Nope! New Mexico. I’m on my way to visit friends in Santa Fe, which allowed me to explore some of the state.
El Malpais National Park is near Grants, New Mexico, south of Interstate 40 and just over an hour west of Albuquerque. The way to visit the park is to start at the visitor center, which is literally across the freeway from Grants. Unlike most National Parks, the visitor center is not the grand entrance. The park is split into two sections, and the visitor center is in a sort of no man’s land in between.
To reach the eastern section, drive up to exit 89. Then you can enjoy a scenic drive with a few stops along the way. There is not much hiking in this section, so I saved it for the late afternoon.
La Ventana Arch in the east side of El MalpaisLava Falls is a hiking area on the south end of the eastern part of the park. I found the trail markers confusing and didn’t venture far.Sandstone Bluffs in the eastern section of El Malpais
To reach the west section of the park, drive west to exit 81. Then continue to go south, where you will have a few hiking opportunities in the park.
Based on the recommendation from the visitor center, I hiked El Calderon to a volcanic crater. It was a perfect day for hiking, sunny and in the 60s. The trail was not crowded, and the trailhead had an inviting picnic area. The hike took me by some interesting lava tubes and up around the crater.
The caves on the El Calderon trail are currently closed. Sorry. No spelunking!Cinder cone Looking into the crater at El CalderonThe hike continues along the crater rim.Most of El Calderon Trail looks like this.If you hike the longer loop, you will have to go through the more challenging lava field section.
After my hike, I decided to check out El Morro National Monument. So glad I did! I still had energy, so I took the two-mile Headland Trail up on the 240-foot rock bluff. Even though it was a sunny Saturday afternoon, the trail wasn’t crowded, and I ended up on top alone. If you are an avid hiker, you can appreciate the serenity and beauty that one experiences alone in nature. And after visiting busy places like the Grand Canyon and Sedona, alone time was a treasure. There was truly an otherworldly feeling up there. And there was a bonus—an ancestral Puebloan Dwelling.
The beautiful rock bluffs of El Morro National MonumentThe ascentAtsinna, ancestral Puebloan DwellingThis box canyon is only visible from the top of the bluff.Another view of the box canyonHaving descended, new views of the bluff appeared. The lines were created from water flow.
After descending the bluff, the trail connects to the half-mile Inscription Trail. There are hundreds of Spanish and American inscriptions on the rocks, along with some petroglyphs.
Travel days are often the best part of my nomadic life. I love hitting the road and exploring new territory, especially if National Parks or National Monuments are on the day’s agenda.
After leaving Sedona, my first stop was Walnut Canyon National Monument. It is just east of Flagstaff, Arizona, off Interstate 40. I almost skipped this one, but I’m glad I didn’t. The Native American (ancestors of the Hopi) cliff dwellings were built somewhere between 1125-1250.
Part of the visit is a walk/hike down to 25 dwellings. Island trail is only a mile long, but it takes you 185 vertical feet down to the dwellings. Take your time if you need to because it is worth it. The trail takes you around the dwellings that are in various stages of restoration.
Heading east across Arizona, my next stop was Meteor Crater. It is the site of a Meteor that struck Earth 50,000 years ago. The Meteor was about 150 feet in size and mainly consisted of iron.
A guided tour is the only way to go to the crater’s edge. The visit is quite informative, starting with a short video. Our guide knew her stuff and packed in a lot of information about the history and geology of the site.
The gift shop is extensive, and the grounds are welcoming. I recommend this stop if you are traveling between Flagstaff and Winslow, Arizona.
I love visiting the “less crowded” National Parks. My final stop was Petrified Forest National Park near Holbrook, Arizona. The amount of petrified wood in the park is astounding! It’s hard to imagine that this desert landscape was once a lush forest, but that was millions of years ago.
You can take in most of the park in a few hours. I started at the south entrance and walked behind the visitor’s center and the Rainbow House Museum. The rolling landscape is loaded with large petrified logs. It’s hard to fathom that they are 200 million years old. I didn’t have time for the hike to Agate house, but I stopped to take the one-mile walk around Crystal Forest.
Crystal Forest
I then made stops at Agate Bridge, Blue Mesa, and Newspaper Rock.
Agate Bridge
I finished at the park’s north end with the monument to Route 66 and the historic Painted Desert Inn. By then, it was getting late, so the Painted Desert Inn was already closed. I walked around the perimeter, peeking in where I could. Sometimes, you can’t see everything, and my stomach was demanding some dinner.
Living as a nomad, it is always nice to slow down a bit and relax for a while.
I had only passed through Sedona once, over twenty years ago. Returning has been on my to-do list for several years.
Courthouse Butte
Sedona is a town built in what should be a National Park. Red rock is everywhere, and the hiking trails are abundant. Stunning is the best way to describe it. In the six full days I was there, I managed to hike five. And I can’t wait to return and hike some more.
There’s not much natural water in Sedona. This is Cottonwood Creek along the Baldwin TrailBaldwin Trail
In Sedona, places called vortexes are supposed to be energy centers. I hiked four of them, and I did experience some pleasant feelings at one. Perhaps I was walking too fast to get the whole experience.
In reality, the entire week was one big positive energy trip. From the moment I checked in until the day I left, I experienced positivity everywhere. During my first stop for groceries, the checker was excited about my trip and thought it was so cool that I had driven all the way from Washington State. People on the hiking trails often stopped and engaged in conversation or at least said hello and exchanged a few words. Bikers with whom I was sharing the trail were extremely polite. They often said, “Thank you,” in response to stepping aside, and they usually let me know how many were in their group. It was the most pleasant trail etiquette that I have experienced in a long time.
Chapel of the Holy CrossBroken Arrow TrailAirport Loop TrailBoynton Canyon Trail
The week passed by quickly. I got into a routine of morning hikes and afternoon reading and relaxation, my favorite kind of travel.
April 17-20, 2023 Sometimes a splurge is worth it. When it comes to the National Parks, I assess the lodging options and, at times, take the plunge and go over budget for in-park accommodations.
Last summer, I stayed in a little cabin near Yellowstone Lake Lodge. Absolutely worth it! The cabin itself was cute and clean, and I was able to maximize my time in the park.
I again splurged at the Grand Canyon. The location, Yavapai Lodge, was perfect. The room itself, though, was kind of crappy. There’s really no other way to put it. The sheets appeared clean, but I was unsure about the rest. The coffee station hadn’t been cleaned or refilled, the shower curtain had mildew, and the nonslip mat in the tub had permadirt.
Still a little snow in April
I decided to remain optimistic and focus on the fabulous location. I could walk to the main grocery store and the canyon rim, and the park shuttle stops were nearby.
If you’ve never been, The Grand Canyon should be on your bucket list. One really can’t comprehend its expansiveness without seeing it in person. As Theodore Roosevelts said, it is “the one great sight…every American should see.”
Even better, a friend came up to join me for some hiking. We put in about nine miles along the Rim Trail starting from Hermit’s Rest. It was pretty much an all-day event starting with two shuttle rides. I probably wouldn’t have walked that far without company, and I’m grateful to have had the experience. We also took in Canyon Village life with dinner and live music at the Yavapai Tavern. It was one of the best days of this trip.
Enjoy the photos but know that the real thing is ten times better!
Gigantic Fireplace inside Hermit’s RestYou can see the Colorado River in the center.At some points, the Rim Trail is literally on the rim!Female elk on the morning of my departure
I’m a National Park Nerd. I’ll admit it. I love the concept, and I love Teddy Roosevelt for making an impact on the National Parks system. They are here for us to enjoy, and I certainly do! I’ve been privileged to visit many of the parks in the western US.
I also like to find those less-famous National Monuments. A friend suggested that I stop at Pipe Spring National Monument on my way from Zion to the Grand Canyon.
East Cabin at Pipe Spring
Pipe Spring is worth a visit, especially if you like history. It is a Mormon pioneer site with the main building, Winsor Castle, and two cabins intact. There’s even a corral with longhorn cattle, and the spring still feeds the ponds on the site.
Interior of Winsor Castle (not really a castle)You have to appreciate the humor!
You can also walk a half-mile trail above the buildings for spectacular views. It’s a perfect stretch-your-legs stop.
Trail above the ranchView from the trail
My next stop was the Glen Canyon Dam. Sorry, I didn’t take the dam tour. I had other things on my agenda. I did walk out on the bridge, though.
View of Glen Canyon DamCanyon below Glen Canyon Dam
I wanted to tour the Lower Antelope Canyon but found the numerous ticket websites daunting. Instead of booking online, I opted to stop at the local tourist office to see if I could get in that afternoon. I was in luck, but I also had time to kill before my 2:45 tour. (I had gained an hour since Arizona does not recognize Daylight Savings Time.)
Riding the golf cart down to the marina at Antelope Point
I decided to drive to Antelope Point on Lake Powell. From the map, I could see that there was a marina and restaurant. It was an interesting lunch stop, to say the least. We customers were shuttled down to the marina in golf carts. It wasn’t as scenic as I had anticipated, but the food was decent, and it was an experience.
I have mixed feelings about the Lower Antelope Tour. First, the rock formations are incredible. It truly is a sight to see, and if you enjoy taking photos, the results can be genuinely awesome.
What I didn’t enjoy was that it was crowded. Thirty of us left in three groups of ten to “tour” the slot canyon. It was more like a “stand and wait” than a tour. What took 75 minutes could have been a 15-minute tour. I’m not sure if there would be a better solution. They are limiting the number of people on the tours. I guess I prefer to avoid big crowds.
It was 4:15 by the time I got back to my car, and I still had an hour and a half of driving to get to the Grand Canyon. I was exhausted by the time I checked in at Yavapai Lodge. But I was at The Grand Canyon!
First shot of the Grand Canyon as I drove in from the east entrance
It had been over twenty years since I had last visited Zion National Park, and I was overdue for a trip back.
Zion has beauty and wonders that you must experience firsthand.
First, I recommend arriving early, before 8:00 AM. After a long day of travel on April 14th, I happily slept in and arrived at the park just after 9:00, and the parking lot was full. I’ll admit I was a little frustrated. To see the main canyon in Zion, you must park and take the shuttle (from March-November). Private cars are not allowed in that section of the park.
I’m not opposed to the shuttle system. It makes sense. And I arrived at 7:30 the next day to find plenty of spots in the parking lot.
There is a section of the park where you can drive a private vehicle. It takes you through the Zion-Mount Carmel Tunnel and out of the park’s east entrance. Since I was unwilling to pay to park outside of the park, I opted to drive on the 15th.
In the end, it was a good plan. I stopped several times and got to enjoy the scenery and took several short walks. When I sat down for lunch, a herd of goats arrived to join me. No complaints.
But if you go to Zion, you must see the canyon.
I started by taking the shuttle to the final stop, the Temple of Sinawava. From this stop, take the Riverside Walk for about a mile along the Virgin River to The Narrows. People hike in the river through the Narrows when the water is low.
The Narrows
Since it was mid-April, there was no possibility of walking upstream. Water was rushing with great force. The abundance of water made for some outstanding waterfalls throughout the park, something you wouldn’t see at other times of the year.
The next stop was Big Bend. The main attraction was the Condors up at the top of the canyon.
On to the next stop. Weeping Rock was gushing, not weeping. Again, due to the spring melt-off. It’s a short hike up and worth it to stand under the rock ledge and watch the water crash over.
Weeping Rock having a good cry!Standing under Weeping Rock
I then disembarked at The Grotto for my main hike of the day. Across the road, I got on the Kayenta Trail, which took me to the Upper and Middle Emerald Pools. (I could see the lower pools but didn’t feel the need to hike down to them.)
Hiking the Kayenta TrailApproaching the Upper and Middle Emerald PoolsUpper Emerald Pool
From there, I hiked to Zion Lodge for a much-needed lunch. Sadly, the menu was limited and disappointing. But the scenery was the star of the day.
Court of the Patriarchs
After briefly stopping at the Court of the Patriarchs, I visited the museum. The shuttle driver suggested walking back to the parking area from there. Since I had one day to take it all in, I took his advice. It was getting pretty warm by then, and I was happily exhausted when I got to my car.
April 14, 2023 The best part of my nomadic life is days like today. This morning, I checked out of the condo I’ve been staying in for a week and hit the road. There is something so exciting about exploring new territory, and today did not disappoint. I got started at about 9:30. My first stop was at Cove Fort, Utah. I found this stop the old-fashioned way by looking at my road atlas. Yes, I have this actual book. It is indispensable for trip planning!
Cove Fort Main EntranceCove Fort interior
Built in 1867, Cove Fort wasn’t a military installation but a haven for travelers. It was a way station for the Pony Express, had a telegraph office, and offered food and lodging for visitors.
Kitchen and Dining Room at Cove FortAll of the rooms at Cove Fort maintain their original qualities.
The site is beautifully maintained by the Mormon church. Each of the rooms in the fort is decorated to show what life was like there in the mid to late 1800s. The enthusiastic volunteers are happy to answer questions and share details of the family that operated the fort. Additionally, the bathrooms are sparkling clean, and the visit is free of charge. I highly recommend this walk through history if traveling south of Salt Lake City. My next stop was the Parowan Visitors Center. Parowan is a small town off Interstate 15, the gateway to Brian Head and Cedar Breaks National Monument. I was hoping to see Cedar Breaks, but I was pretty sure the road would still be closed due to snow.
I was right. The road was closed, but the stop at the Visitors Center was worth it. This is something I have learned on my trips to Europe. Always stop at the local tourist office. You will almost always gain extra knowledge of the area, usually from pleasant locals.
Inside the vault at the Parowan Visitors Center
The coolest thing about the office was that it was in a former bank, and the vault was intact. I also learned all about the Cedar City vicinity. For example, did you know there is a Shakespeare festival from Late June until Early October? I’d love to return for some autumn hiking and live theater. I then drove up to check out Brian Head Resort. It was sunny and hovering around 30 degrees—perfect! Oh, if I only had time for some skiing.
Scenic drive to Brian HeadSkiers enjoying a perfect spring day at Brian Head
I made another stop at the tourism office in Brian Head. I received even more information, including an extensive trail guide. I need to find a hiking buddy before I return. The next stop was Kolob Canyons, the northwest corner of Zion National Park. Sadly, the road was only open two miles up, but that may have been a good thing because it was already 4:30.
The only activity choices were to hike along Taylor Creek or walk up the road past the closed gate. I decided to go on the hike. The woman at the visitor center told me that there would be numerous creek crossings, but I could step on stones to get across. She was right. There were numerous crossings. By crossing #11, I had had enough. I couldn’t see a way across that wouldn’t result in a soaked boot. So, I turned around and completed the ten crossings a second time. Twenty was plenty!
I walked up the road a bit, but my stomach was screaming for dinner, and I felt I had gotten enough exercise. I arrived at my cozy Airbnb around 6:30, showered, made dinner, and called it a night.
Wandering Shannon 