Zion to Grand Canyon

April 17, 2023

I’m a National Park Nerd. I’ll admit it. I love the concept, and I love Teddy Roosevelt for making an impact on the National Parks system. They are here for us to enjoy, and I certainly do! I’ve been privileged to visit many of the parks in the western US.

I also like to find those less-famous National Monuments. A friend suggested that I stop at Pipe Spring National Monument on my way from Zion to the Grand Canyon.

Pipe Spring is worth a visit, especially if you like history. It is a Mormon pioneer site with the main building, Winsor Castle, and two cabins intact. There’s even a corral with longhorn cattle, and the spring still feeds the ponds on the site.

Interior of Winsor Castle (not really a castle)

You can also walk a half-mile trail above the buildings for spectacular views. It’s a perfect stretch-your-legs stop.

My next stop was the Glen Canyon Dam. Sorry, I didn’t take the dam tour. I had other things on my agenda. I did walk out on the bridge, though.

I wanted to tour the Lower Antelope Canyon but found the numerous ticket websites daunting. Instead of booking online, I opted to stop at the local tourist office to see if I could get in that afternoon. I was in luck, but I also had time to kill before my 2:45 tour. (I had gained an hour since Arizona does not recognize Daylight Savings Time.)

Riding the golf cart down to the marina at Antelope Point

I decided to drive to Antelope Point on Lake Powell. From the map, I could see that there was a marina and restaurant.
It was an interesting lunch stop, to say the least. We customers were shuttled down to the marina in golf carts. It wasn’t as scenic as I had anticipated, but the food was decent, and it was an experience.

I have mixed feelings about the Lower Antelope Tour. First, the rock formations are incredible. It truly is a sight to see, and if you enjoy taking photos, the results can be genuinely awesome.

What I didn’t enjoy was that it was crowded. Thirty of us left in three groups of ten to “tour” the slot canyon. It was more like a “stand and wait” than a tour. What took 75 minutes could have been a 15-minute tour. I’m not sure if there would be a better solution. They are limiting the number of people on the tours. I guess I prefer to avoid big crowds.

It was 4:15 by the time I got back to my car, and I still had an hour and a half of driving to get to the Grand Canyon. I was exhausted by the time I checked in at Yavapai Lodge. But I was at The Grand Canyon!

First shot of the Grand Canyon as I drove in from the east entrance

Two Days in Zion

April 15-16, 2023

It had been over twenty years since I had last visited Zion National Park, and I was overdue for a trip back.

Zion has beauty and wonders that you must experience firsthand.

First, I recommend arriving early, before 8:00 AM. After a long day of travel on April 14th, I happily slept in and arrived at the park just after 9:00, and the parking lot was full. I’ll admit I was a little frustrated. To see the main canyon in Zion, you must park and take the shuttle (from March-November). Private cars are not allowed in that section of the park.

I’m not opposed to the shuttle system. It makes sense. And I arrived at 7:30 the next day to find plenty of spots in the parking lot.

There is a section of the park where you can drive a private vehicle. It takes you through the Zion-Mount Carmel Tunnel and out of the park’s east entrance. Since I was unwilling to pay to park outside of the park, I opted to drive on the 15th.

In the end, it was a good plan. I stopped several times and got to enjoy the scenery and took several short walks. When I sat down for lunch, a herd of goats arrived to join me. No complaints.

But if you go to Zion, you must see the canyon.

I started by taking the shuttle to the final stop, the Temple of Sinawava. From this stop, take the Riverside Walk for about a mile along the Virgin River to The Narrows. People hike in the river through the Narrows when the water is low.

Since it was mid-April, there was no possibility of walking upstream. Water was rushing with great force. The abundance of water made for some outstanding waterfalls throughout the park, something you wouldn’t see at other times of the year.

The next stop was Big Bend. The main attraction was the Condors up at the top of the canyon.

On to the next stop.
Weeping Rock was gushing, not weeping. Again, due to the spring melt-off. It’s a short hike up and worth it to stand under the rock ledge and watch the water crash over.

I then disembarked at The Grotto for my main hike of the day. Across the road, I got on the Kayenta Trail, which took me to the Upper and Middle Emerald Pools. (I could see the lower pools but didn’t feel the need to hike down to them.)

Approaching the Upper and Middle Emerald Pools

From there, I hiked to Zion Lodge for a much-needed lunch. Sadly, the menu was limited and disappointing. But the scenery was the star of the day.

After briefly stopping at the Court of the Patriarchs, I visited the museum. The shuttle driver suggested walking back to the parking area from there. Since I had one day to take it all in, I took his advice. It was getting pretty warm by then, and I was happily exhausted when I got to my car.

Park City to Hurricane

April 14, 2023
The best part of my nomadic life is days like today.
This morning, I checked out of the condo I’ve been staying in for a week and hit the road. There is something so exciting about exploring new territory, and today did not disappoint.
I got started at about 9:30.
My first stop was at Cove Fort, Utah. I found this stop the old-fashioned way by looking at my road atlas. Yes, I have this actual book. It is indispensable for trip planning!

Built in 1867, Cove Fort wasn’t a military installation but a haven for travelers. It was a way station for the Pony Express, had a telegraph office, and offered food and lodging for visitors.

All of the rooms at Cove Fort maintain their original qualities.

The site is beautifully maintained by the Mormon church. Each of the rooms in the fort is decorated to show what life was like there in the mid to late 1800s.
The enthusiastic volunteers are happy to answer questions and share details of the family that operated the fort.
Additionally, the bathrooms are sparkling clean, and the visit is free of charge. I highly recommend this walk through history if traveling south of Salt Lake City.
My next stop was the Parowan Visitors Center. Parowan is a small town off Interstate 15, the gateway to Brian Head and Cedar Breaks National Monument. I was hoping to see Cedar Breaks, but I was pretty sure the road would still be closed due to snow.

I was right. The road was closed, but the stop at the Visitors Center was worth it. This is something I have learned on my trips to Europe. Always stop at the local tourist office. You will almost always gain extra knowledge of the area, usually from pleasant locals.

Inside the vault at the Parowan Visitors Center

The coolest thing about the office was that it was in a former bank, and the vault was intact. I also learned all about the Cedar City vicinity. For example, did you know there is a Shakespeare festival from Late June until Early October? I’d love to return for some autumn hiking and live theater.
I then drove up to check out Brian Head Resort. It was sunny and hovering around 30 degrees—perfect! Oh, if I only had time for some skiing.

Skiers enjoying a perfect spring day at Brian Head

I made another stop at the tourism office in Brian Head. I received even more information, including an extensive trail guide. I need to find a hiking buddy before I return.
The next stop was Kolob Canyons, the northwest corner of Zion National Park. Sadly, the road was only open two miles up, but that may have been a good thing because it was already 4:30.

The only activity choices were to hike along Taylor Creek or walk up the road past the closed gate.
I decided to go on the hike. The woman at the visitor center told me that there would be numerous creek crossings, but I could step on stones to get across.
She was right. There were numerous crossings. By crossing #11, I had had enough. I couldn’t see a way across that wouldn’t result in a soaked boot. So, I turned around and completed the ten crossings a second time. Twenty was plenty!

I walked up the road a bit, but my stomach was screaming for dinner, and I felt I had gotten enough exercise.
I arrived at my cozy Airbnb around 6:30, showered, made dinner, and called it a night.

Looking forward to more exploration tomorrow!

Skiing the Melt in Park City

April 13, 2023

I arrived in Park City last Friday, April 7th.
When I made the reservation, I was really, really hoping that there would still be snow. My two previous visits to the area were in the summer, another great time to be here. It’s a hiking and biking haven.

But Park City is also the home of the 2002 Winter Olympics. In the summer, I have watched the skiers jump into the pool at Utah Olympic Park. I’ve imagined skiers on the snowless summer slopes. And I could see myself gliding on my cross-country skis across the fields and along the trails.

I had to return to see that beautiful white blanket covering the mountains and valleys.

Last summer, I added “Park City in the Snow” to my bucket list.
With this season’s record snowfall, I got lucky. Sometime in March, I read that the ski resorts would stay open through April 23rd.
Since I was coming solo, I decided to leave my alpine ski gear in the storage unit. You might think that’s crazy. Why would I come to a World-class ski resort and not hit the slopes?

I’m a much better cross-country skier. Honestly, it’s dangerous to downhill ski solo, especially on an unfamiliar mountain. (Maybe I have become slightly more cautious after falling off a horse last summer.)

I skied four out of six days during my visit. Temperatures have been reaching the 50s and 60s, so skiing has been best in the mornings. It gets too slushy in the afternoon.

Yesterday was my best day of skiing. I drove out to Round Valley, which has an extensive network of trails. It’s also an off-leash dog area. What could be better than skiing with happy canines romping through the snow? Sure, they mess up the tracks a bit, but I got out early in the morning, and the conditions were good.

Round Valley: Mountains in every direction!

Today was another story. Temperatures dropped overnight. It was hovering around freezing this morning with light snowfall. Good ski conditions, right? It would have been great except for the 10-20 mph winds. And then there were gusts up to 30.
As the eternal optimist, I bundled up and returned to Round Valley.

It was a different world a day later. I felt like I was on an expedition to the North Pole, fighting the wind and sliding backward in the icy tracks.
Then I would get a reprieve from the wind, enough to keep me going.
When I decided to turn around, I experienced the bliss of the wind pushing me in the tracks. What fun! Suddenly, the initial effort was paying off.
Then, I reached the open field near the parking lot. The track had a barely noticeable downhill slope. It would be the perfect ride back to my car.
Clearly, one of those 30 mph gusts hit my back at just the right time. I was speeding around a curve, initially gleeful but quickly becoming fearful. The wind pushed me out of the tracks and onto the open field. There was no choice but to intentionally crash because it was going to happen anyway.
Luckily the snow was relatively soft, and I landed safely. I chose to take off my skis and walk the rest of the way to the car. Why push my luck?
It was a memorable way to end this year’s ski season.

Travel Days and Me Time

April 7, 2023

Yesterday was a travel day with some fun mixed in.
I left my cousin’s place in the morning. Well, we actually went together, each taking our own car. The first stop was a bakery in Hamilton, Montana, that offered several gluten-free items. (River Rising—I highly recommend it if you are in the Bitterroot Valley!)
We then traveled south to Lost Trail Pass and the Chief Joseph Nordic Ski area. The trail grooming ended last weekend, and about two feet of snow fell after. So, there was plenty of snow, but those sweet smooth tracks were lacking. It was a bit of work, but the glorious sunny day made it worth the effort.

We got four challenging miles in, and both felt satisfied with the workout.
Sadly, it was time to say goodbye to my cousin, but we had new memories to share from our visit.
I then took off on my own, heading south as she headed north to go home.
My favorite part of traveling is hitting a new road for the first time. The drive south along Highway 93 was snowy and scenic. Then I took a left turn at the town of Salmon to head southeast to Idaho Falls.
Chunks of snow lay along the sides of the Salmon River as the spring thaw was in full force. Looking back this morning, I wish I had stopped for more pictures. It was a long day of travel, and I had one more pass to conquer.

The road was mostly clear and dry until I reached a section where the wind picked up, and the snow was blowing across the highway. In the distance, the soft snow-covered peaks continued as I drove.
I finally arrived in Idaho Falls around 5:00 PM. I was starving and more than ready for a shower.
I splurged and ordered an Uber Eats delivery which ended in disaster. My enchiladas arrived wrapped in flour tortillas, and the rice and beans were lacking. The kind young man at the front desk had received the order for me, so I was not able to check the order myself.
This starving gluten-free girl had to find somewhere else to eat.
I got online and found another Mexican place about a mile away. Don Alberto served up massive quantities at reasonable prices. I had enough left over for lunch today.

Don Alberto in Idaho Falls. The two carnitas tacos were enough for dinner!

All’s well that ends well. I caught up with a good friend and enjoyed a little reading and TV time. (Silly as it may seem, I am a nomad who loves HGTV.)
Last night was my first alone in a hotel since leaving “home” almost two weeks ago. Don’t get me wrong—I love visiting friends and family—but it is nice to have my own space.
Now I will be on my own for about three weeks, and I will be trying out some more extended stays. Travel is my life, so I plan to slow down a bit.
I will arrive in Park City, Utah, for a week-long stay tonight. I hope to catch the last of the spring snow and get out for more cross-country skiing. I’m also due for some pampering time—a pedicure and a haircut are in order. Maybe a massage.
Here’s to some Me Time!

Early Spring in Montana’s Flathead Valley

April 3, 2023

Last week, I headed east across Washington State, visiting friends along the way. The great spring road trip has begun!
A few days ago, I arrived in Montana’s Flathead Valley, one of my favorite places in the country. I first passed through in the 1990s. Flathead Lake captivated me then and still does today.

I had to pull over to take it in as I approached the lake. It literally brings tears to my eyes every time I return. This time, the frozen shores of early spring added a dimension to its beauty.

Frozen shores of Flathead Lake in Somers, Montana

The past few days have been filled with outdoor activities as I captured the end of the long, snowy season here.
No matter the time of year, I’m always happy to return to visit friends and enjoy the area’s natural beauty.

Hiking the cross-country ski trail at Dog Creek Nordic Center. They let us hike the Black Diamond run since some of the snow had melted on parts of the trail.

Real Time

March 26, 2023

The day has finally arrived!
I am back to “real-time” with my blog.
After losing my sister to pancreatic cancer in January, I have been hanging out in Bellingham, Washington, taking a break from my nomadic ways to help settle my sister’s affairs and spend time with family.
I was fortunate to negotiate a reasonable price on a three-month furnished rental home with a view of Lake Whatcom. It has been the perfect place to process my grief, rest, meditate, recharge, and entertain friends and family.
My car is packed, and I will hit the road tomorrow morning. A part of me is very sad to depart. It’s been pleasant to have this temporary home, but I can’t deny the pull to adventure. And I feel like I have a new home to return to here in Washington.

If you’ve never visited Bellingham, I highly recommend it. There is an abundance of parks and trails in the area. I’ve walked and hiked many, but there are many more to discover. I’ve also skied Mount Baker and cross-country skied at Salmon Ridge.
I look forward to returning this summer to spend more time with family and new friends and enjoy the great outdoors.

Icy waters next to the cross-country ski trail at Salmon Ridge

Loss and Recovery

January 24, 2023

I haven’t written in over a month. I’m still recovering from the most profound shock of my life.
After a three-month, life-changing trip to Europe, I came back “home” on December 7th, energized and optimistic. I was anticipating more travels in 2023 and looked forward to spending time with friends and family through the holidays. I planned my itinerary, including a house-sitting gig for a friend from December 25th through January 6th. Then I would ski before resuming my nomadic life. I thought Costa Rica might be next.
Thankfully, I hadn’t bought a plane ticket yet.
On the evening of December 8th, I called my sister to check-in. From our texts, I knew she had been experiencing lower back pain; she felt like she hadn’t fully recovered from her hip surgery earlier in the year.
When I heard her voice, my heart sank. She was in despair. The pain had kept her from sleeping, she had lost her appetite, and she wasn’t getting a firm answer from her medical providers. Additionally, she had been laid off while on medical leave. She had been hiding her misery from family and close friends, not one to trouble other people, especially at Christmastime.
I took a day to gather my thoughts and figure out a plan of action.
I rented an Airbnb at one of her favorite places on the bay for the next two weeks and then arranged for a three-month house rental through the end of March. That would give us time to figure out her medical needs and get her in a better place emotionally. When I saw her on Saturday, she agreed to the plan without hesitation.

A few days later, an MRI showed irregularities in her liver.
The following Monday, we were in the ER. Another scan revealed tumors in her liver and pancreas, likely cancerous. That was December 19th.
On December 22nd, she was diagnosed with pancreatic cancer—she would not survive. She remained in the hospital for five more days due to low sodium levels.
On December 27th, we moved her into the house I had rented. One of her oldest friends arrived to help me care for her. A small group of friends and family members came to visit and support her.

She passed away on January 3rd.

Pancreatic cancer is sneaky. In most cases, people don’t receive a diagnosis until it’s advanced, often stage four. I’ve never seen someone decline so rapidly. She slipped visibly every day. I didn’t even have time to contact all our relatives and her friends to tell them she was sick.
Over the past three weeks, I have told the story countless times to friends and relatives, every time experiencing the pain again.

You know how some people say, “Man makes plans, and God laughs”? That sums up the past few years of my life. Every time that I have it all mapped out, something changes. I’ve learned to accept and embrace those changes.
Losing my sister was certainly not in my plan, but I’m grateful I was with her at the end of her life. The best thing is that I have no regrets regarding our relationship. We talked on the phone often and supported each other through the bad days. We had a lot of fun over the past decade, too. We enjoyed some great sister trips; we swam with the dolphins in Mexico, and I finally took her to Hawaii in 2021.
We have all heard the advice: “Be grateful every day. Tell people you love them. Live with no regrets.”
We really don’t know when our time will come. What keeps you from chasing your dreams and checking off that bucket list?
Right now, I’m taking my time and allowing myself to grieve. We need to do that, too. I have this beautiful lake-view home for two more months. It wasn’t in my plan, but I’m doing my best. My kids and friends have been coming to visit, I’m taking long restorative walks, and I’m helping my nieces with the work that’s involved in wrapping up my sister’s affairs. Every day the pain lifts a little. I embrace the happy moments, the tears, and the time to read, meditate, and enjoy this place’s peacefulness.

Adventures in Croatia

November 26-December 6, 2022

Croatia has been on my bucket list for about 40 years. Why did it take me so long to get there? It could be my obsession with Spain. For me, a trip to Europe means time in Spain.

The good news is that I finally got there. I didn’t see as much as I would have liked, but I will return in 2023 for further exploration.

Rijeka: We arrived by bus from Trieste, Italy. The ride took us through a little bit of Slovenia and then through passport control at the border of Croatia. I was getting close to my 90 days in the Schengen Zone, so I was relieved to get my passport stamped. (Croatia fully joined the EU and became a Schengen Zone country on January 1, 2023. They also switched their currency from the Kuna to the Euro.)

We arrived in Rijeka, and my friend, who had joined me for the final three weeks of my trip, was a bit disappointed. Rijeka lacked the sparkle of towns like Trieste and Venice. I was not surprised because I saw Croatia as an up-and-coming country.

Our Lady of Lourdes is the prettiest building near the bus station in Rijeka.

Rijeka did not disappoint. A block or so away, we encountered the city’s main pedestrian street. It was indeed sparkling with Christmas decorations and lights. The Christmas market stands and pop-up bars were bustling with people. It was delightful!

The gigantic Christmas tree on the main pedestrian street of Rijeka

Our apartment up the hill was spacious and comfortable. It had two bedrooms, thoughtfully decorated. We were each ready for some space, so it was a nice break.

Every evening of our stay, I made a final trip down to the pedestrian street to take in the lights and festive atmosphere. I found Rijeka surprisingly charming.

A festive plaza where we drank warm beverages and listened to Christmas carols

This canal is near one end of Rijeka’s pedestrian zone.

Cute statue in the park below our Rijeka apartment

Even the Castle of Rijeka was decorated for Christmas

Inside St. Mary of the Assumption Chruch

Rab Island: Three days later, we took a ferry from Rijeka to Rab Island. I had done some research and felt there would still be some things to do and see even though we were well into the off-season.

We arrived after dark but had a short walk to our apartment. As we walked through the arch of the old city wall, we found ourselves in a park decorated for Christmas. Talk about enchanting! We kept gawking as we slowly walked, and our hostess awaited our arrival.

Tree in the plaza next to our apartment on Rab Island

Our apartment was in a building that was a former palace. The apartment itself wasn’t anything special, but the location was perfect! We had a view of the harbor and were strategically located in the old city. At about $65. per night, it was a bargain.

The next day, as we walked, we learned that the old city was a pedestrian zone. And it was the end of November, so few tourists were around. The Christmas decorations were plentiful, and there was a cute ice-skating rink. Some signs said, “The most beautiful Advent in the Adriatic.”

Rab Island’s Promenade: The funds to build the promenade were a gift from the Prince of Lichtenstein because he was “captivated by the beauty” of the island.

Historical sights are plentiful within the old town, including several churches and Roman ruins.

Zagreb: We finished the adventure in Croatia’s capital city.

We returned to Rijeka by ferry and had about three hours to kill. That made for another stop at the gluten-free bakery and a refill of dried fruits and nuts at one of the market stands.

A final visit to my favorite gluten-free bakery in Rijeka. Yes, I ordered two things!

We boarded our bus and arrived in Zagreb about three hours later.

This time I could have done better with the apartment. The apartment was okay but far from the historic center. No problem. The bus stop was close. (If I were to revisit Zagreb, I would book something closer in, though.)

By the time we got settled, darkness was falling, but it was still early. My friend was leery of heading into the city after dark. I then reminded her that I had walked around alone a couple of evenings in Rijeka. I convinced her that we would stay in the touristy areas.

It was early December, and the city was decked out for Advent. Our evening walk took us by the biggest ice rink I had ever seen and through a couple of Christmas markets.

Cute decorations in a Zagreb Christmas market

The “markets” in Croatia are quite different from those in Spain. In Madrid, there is an abundance of stands selling artisan goods. In Croatia, the focus was on stands selling food and drink. In fact, many were pop-up bars. We did, however, find some lovely goods to take home as gifts.

The next day, we boarded the Hop-on, Hop-off bus to take into the city. One could spend a week in Zagreb and still not see all the museums. Sadly, some of the museums were closed for renovations as the city is still recovering from the 2020 earthquake.

While on the bus, we noticed the lights were on in the National Theater. I had looked online to buy tickets for the Nutcracker, but it was sold out. We decided to go in to see if they had any last-minute tickets.

We were in luck. Box seats. And not just box seats, but the best seats in the house! We were so very grateful to have such good fortune.

Our fabulous box seats at the National Theater

The rest of our time in Zagreb was delightful. It was chilly and a bit rainy, but that didn’t keep us from enjoying the city. It also gave me an excuse to drink hot chocolate and tea. There was a delightful gluten-free bakery, too.

The World’s shortest funicular connects the upper and lower towns of Zagreb.

View of the Cathedral in the distance from one of the Christmas markets in Zagreb

Since I was at the end of my extended trip, I shopped for some gifts, including lots of chocolate and a big box of tea, and maxed out my suitcase before heading home.

My next European adventure will start in Croatia. I can’t wait to return!

Can I Please Take This with Me?

November 24, 2022

Now that I have been travelling for five months, I can tell you some of the biggest challenges of moving from place-to-place and, well, not having my own home.

Number one: The bed. I am a girl who needs a good night’s sleep. Period. As I have gotten older (I’m in my 50s), I have come to appreciate a mattress with a bit of give. I’m not talking totally squishy, but I love a pillow top or some memory foam.

For the last five years, I had been spoiled with a Sleep Number bed, and I loved it. I loved putting my feet up and taking a rest after a good hike or a day of skiing. I loved making it a little softer when my body needed some recovery time. And I loved the massage feature; it could get me back to sleep when I had those random 3:00 AM wake ups.

As you can imagine, not every hotel or short-term rental apartment has the best bed. The worst are the firm ones. I can’t say I’ve had one that was too soft yet. When I stayed in Valencia for a month, I got lucky. I really couldn’t have asked for a better mattress. (Well, except for that Sleep Number.)

Number two: Low quality or missing utensils. I like to cook and bake. For some reason making a delicious dinner with few ingredients while travelling is highly satisfying. Sometimes, it’s just throwing in one more thing, like the chopped Italian pancetta that I added to the sauteed vegetables and chicken breast tonight.

The problem is that I rarely have a sharp knife to work with, and ugh, sometimes the cutting boards are far beyond the day they should have been replaced. Yuck. Do I really have to eat food that has been chopped on this bacteria-ridden nightmare?

I also don’t understand why so many places have metal spatulas with nonstick pans. Don’t people know better? Don’t they understand that’s why their pans are all scratched up?

Number three: Lack of little comforts. My current journey started in Portugal and Spain in September and October. The weather was fabulous, in the 70s and 80s with very little rain. Then Daylight Savings time ended, and I was in the mountains of Andorra a week later. It was nearly freezing and pouring rain the day I arrived. After that, the days continued to be colder and shorter. In the evenings, I was longing for my favorite throw, the one that is like sheepskin.

Bathtubs are a rarity in hotels and rentals these days. When I get one, I am a happy girl. That room in Andorra did have a tub. It was on the small side, but I didn’t care. A couple of week later, I spent the night in Barcelona before flying to meet a friend in Italy. I was grateful to have tub that night because I ended up walking more than expected that afternoon and evening.

Still, I wouldn’t trade the little annoyances or discomforts for the joy of my nomadic lifestyle.

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