True Confession

November 23, 2022

I don’t love Italy. I know, people rave about Italy. Okay, there are some beautiful places to see, but I have to believe those fans of Italy have never been to Spain or Portugal. I know I’m biased, but who isn’t? And this is about my experiences, so here goes…

I passed through Italy in the 1980s while doing the college kid-backpack-Eurail Pass thing. My friend and I were traveling from December through early February, so we were looking for warm weather after spending some time in France. (Christmas in Paris was amazing!)

We first passed through Italy on our way to Greece, taking a ferry from southern Italy. Didn’t really see much of Italy except what had passed by the train windows.

Then we made a point of stopping in Rome on the way back from Greece. The great snowstorm of the century hit Rome the day we arrived; On top of that, my friend had acquired a cold through our travels. She was absolutely miserable! I remember leaving our crappy little hotel room to find her some soup. Sadly, we didn’t get to see any of the sights. The city had shut down.

About 14 years ago, I traveled to Italy with my then-husband and two kids. We had a fabulous trip! We spent four days covering as much of Rome as possible by foot. We splurged on a private tour of the Vatican. We stayed at an Airbnb that had a view of the Pantheon. Then we drove along the Amalfi Coast and spent a day in Pompeii. It was a short but sweet sampling of Italy.

Eating was problematic with my celiac disease, but everything else made up for that.

The Tuscan countryside is gorgeous, no doubt about that.

On my current journey, I had the opportunity to rent a one-bedroom condo in Tuscany for a great price. Everyone raves about Tuscany. How could I pass up the opportunity to finally see it? A friend who had been to Tuscany before offered to drive. Great! I absolutely, positively will not drive in Italy.

We made the most of our six days in Tuscany. The scenery was picture-perfect. The hilltop towns are enchanting despite the sometimes-treacherous narrow roads one must drive to get to and from them. I completely understand why people love it.
What I didn’t like was that I felt everyone was after my pocketbook. Prices were high compared to Spain and Portugal. Gluten-free restaurant food was challenging to find. And I swear we sometimes paid the “tourist price.”
Most Italian restaurants add a service charge of anywhere from one Euro to 3.50 per person. You’re basically paying for your utensils and bread, and it doesn’t matter if you don’t eat the bread.

Then it got worse: Venice. Okay, Venice is unique and full of beautiful buildings. It’s delightful to watch the gondolas making their way through the canals. But do you know how much a gondola ride costs? Eighty Euros for thirty minutes! Yes, that is for up to five people in a boat, but thirty minutes? That’s it? No thanks. I can live without ever riding in a gondola.

Seeing the gondolas was good enough for me.

Restaurants are expensive, and some pull some ridiculous moves. We encountered heavy rain and 50-mile-per-hour winds on the second day in Venice. It wasn’t the best day for sightseeing. We first went to the Doge’s Palace. Then we saw a café advertising hot chocolate (I’m a huge fan of Spanish and Italian stuff—dark, rich, and not too sweet.) We walked up and asked for one. The nicely dressed waiter told us to come in and sit down. It was a swanky café with red velvet cushions on the seats. My friend figured she would order a cup of tea. Then we saw the menu. Hot chocolate with a cookie: ten euros. What??? I asked the waiter. He said without the cookie, it was only eight euros. I asked about the 3.50 price posted by the door. He said that was takeaway only. We got up, and I took that hot chocolate away in the pouring rain.

That same day, we decided we needed to continue to brave the cold and sideways rain to get a hot lunch. We tried our luck at the nearest restaurant. They had some gluten-free items. Okay. We noticed that a man was eating some soup and asked about it. No gluten. Great! It was a traditional Italian broth-based soup with beef, cabbage, onion, cauliflower, and kale. I would call it peasant soup. It was simple and delicious. We each had a bowl and shared an entrée of chicken and vegetables in a white wine sauce. Also, very good!

Then we got the bill. He charged us 16 euros each for the soup! What? I can’t think of a gourmet restaurant in the US that would demand that much for soup. And the chicken entrée was 17 euros. It didn’t make sense. I asked the waiter if it was correct. He gave me that look, like, of course it is, you stupid tourist. I wonder if that other guy paid 16 Euros for his soup.

And the final “I can’t believe you are charging that much” price was the cost of climbing the San Marco Tower. Ten Euros! Nope. I can get my exercise in other ways.

I understand that costs may be higher in Venice because of its location, but groceries were inexpensive. Just saying…
I’ll stick with Spain and Portugal, or at least I won’t return to Venice anytime soon.

A beautiful day in Murano! Okay, Italy wasn’t so bad after all.

Here are some more photos of Italy. My friend and I had a fantastic time despite the few instances of price gouging.

The Leaning Tower of Pisa. Bucket List checked. Climbed it. Very cool experience!

Vicari, a cute Tuscan town with a castle in the middle

The best and reasonably priced food we ate in Italy, at a French restaurant! Bacciomeo in Palaiia

The World’s tiniest toilet and bidet in our Venice hotel room!

If You Love Botanical Gardens, Go to Blanes, Spain

November 13, 2022

This post is another photo dump. Even though I was not happy with my accommodations in Blanes, I did enjoy the town, beach, castle, and botanical garden.

Blanes is a beach town in Catalonia, Spain, a mere 43 miles (69 kilometers) north of Barcelona. It is known as the “Gateway to the Costa Brava,” a popular tourist destination, but not crowded for this off-season traveler.

Besides its location, I picked it because I read that it was a good walking town with a boardwalk and trails, and there was a castle on the hilltop. Throughout town there are historic sights, too.

I was pleasantly surprised to find a gorgeous botanical garden, one of my favorite sights of my three-month European trip. Enjoy the sights!

And walking down some more…it was a combination of roads and stairs.

The following photos are of Marimurtra Botanical Garden.

Sometimes It’s Just Shabby

November 12, 2022

I’ve been traveling for about four and a half months. Yesterday, I thought I was feeling travel weary. I arrived in a new town, and I wasn’t that excited. I walked into the building where I was renting an apartment, and it just didn’t feel right. I got up to my apartment and got a little excited that it had a partial view of the Mediterranean. And it was relatively spacious for a short-term rental. It may be alright after all.

Don’t let this post throw you off; Blanes is a lovely seaside town!

Then I started to notice little things, not-so-good things. The towel bar in the bathroom was broken and hanging rustily from its one screw. The white-painted kitchen chairs were grubby and in need of a good cleaning. The sofa had uneven back cushions and was ripped in one corner. There was a flat white sheet lying on it. I initially thought it might be a set of sheets for a fold-out mattress. No, it was one flat sheet, presumably to cover the crappy sofa.

Then there were other little things. The batteries were dead in the television remote. I couldn’t release the stopper when I stopped up the bathroom sink to wash some underwear. But it got worse; there was no hair dryer! No hair dryer? Every single place I have been since June has provided a hair dryer.

Then there was one bizarre thing. Once I manually turned on the TV (dead batteries in the remote), I noticed all the stations were in French! Blanes is on the Costa Brava of Spain—at least 100 kilometers from France. Usually, I wouldn’t fuss about the TV, but it was Friday night, and I wanted to watch La Voz (Spain’s version of The Voice).

This morning, I was dreading the trip to the front desk. I actually had a list so I would remember everything. I’m not fond of confrontation, and complaining is not my style. But I’m here for two more nights, and it would be nice to stop washing my hands and brushing my teeth in the kitchen sink. And my hair looks like crap. I’d rather not go with the ponytail and hat look for the next three days.

Most of the issues were quickly remedied. The front desk clerk handed me two batteries and called housekeeping to bring up a hairdryer and check on the sink drain. It was one of those press-down and pop-up deals. She had to press a few times, and it finally popped up. She assured me she would send maintenance a note about the towel bar. I breathed a sigh of relief and got out for a day of exploring.

Still, I wouldn’t say I like this place—not the town—this apartment. I tried to talk myself into liking it. The bed is comfortable, and the sheets are clean. There is even a rain head in the shower. But it lacks coziness and comfort. The walls have a rough texture. The décor is lacking, except for the cute basket-style lampshade over the kitchen table. It feels like it was done in the most minimally acceptable way, as no one cares. It lacks warmth. No one should have to pay to sit on a worn and tattered sofa! Shabby is the best word to describe it.

The cute basket-style lampshade was about all the kitchen had going for it.

Charming Andorra

November 6, 2022

Between my month-long stay in Valencia, Spain, and the date that I was to meet a friend in Italy, I had a two-week window. I initially thought I would go up the coast north of Barcelona.
Then I changed my mind and my itinerary. When visiting with some Spaniards, they mentioned skiing in Andorra. Who doesn’t love a tiny country? I had previously visited Luxembourg, such a cute, pint-sized country. Andorra had been on my to-do list. Time to go there.
The beginning of November was too early for skiing, but being shoulder season, it was a great time to get a bargain rate on a hotel room. Hotel de L’Isard is located on Avenida Meritxell, one of the main drags in Andorra la Vella.
After the three-hour bus ride from Barcelona and a steep climb up the hill, I arrived at the cozy, family-owned hotel. Remember, I mostly stay in small rental apartments, but sometimes the change to a hotel is refreshing.
The remainder of this post is a photo dump of Andorra la Vella. I highly recommend a stop if you are in northeastern Spain.

Chestnuts roasting…It was chilly, just above freezing.

Tea and perhaps the World’s best gluten-free pastry with Frida at 0% Gluten

Sola Irrigation Canal Trail up above the city

These photos just scratch the surface. So much to see and do in Andorra la Vella!

Cab Drivers in the Know

October 31, 2022

Cab drivers in Spain are an interesting group of people. Occasionally you will get the silent one, but most of the time, they like to chat. Some love to tell you about their city and the places you should visit, and some will suggest other towns you must see. They are usually a thoughtful and kind-hearted group of people.

A couple of weeks ago, I met a driver who was an artist and author. We talked about writing, and I told him I dabbled a bit. He gave me his business card and encouraged me to go on a writing retreat in the future. (Add that to the to-do list.)

Last week, I brought my friend to Madrid for a couple of days before she headed back to the US. I got up early with her and called a cab at 2:45 in the morning. Then I went back to sleep for a few hours and called my own taxi to the train station. Usually, I would save money and take the bus or Metro, but rest felt like a better option! It took about ten minutes for the driver to arrive. He explained that the traffic was terrible, and he had done his best. I thought I had given myself enough of a traffic buffer when I summoned him with the app, but I was beginning to panic a little as we drove. He asked me what time my train was, and I said, “10:15.” He assured me that he would get me there in time to have a cup of coffee before getting on the train. He skillfully dashed in and out of traffic without making me feel unsafe.

He was right. We arrived at 9:57. I had plenty of time to get through security and board my train.

When I arrived in Sitges today, I decided to get groceries first since it looked like the apartment I’d be staying in was a way out of town. (Funny. I was sure I had carefully chosen a place within close walking distance, but that’s another story.) I was rather loaded down with my backpack, suitcase, and two bags of groceries. My Cabify App would not work in Sitges, so I went to the taxi stand.

The driver who picked me up seemed happy to see me, almost as if we were old friends. We chatted a bit as we drove, and then I heard him sigh. I asked if he was tired. He then unloaded on me a bit about how hard it is to drive a cab and work with the public. I told him that I could relate. I had just retired from teaching. He then became enthusiastic and told me he has three children, 17, 19, and 24. He has insisted that they all receive some higher education to have a better life than he has. He commended me for teaching and congratulated me on my retirement. We found out that we are the same age, too. I felt like I had made a new friend.

The office where I checked in for the rental apartment was at least a mile from the apartment. It was a long walk!

Sounds of the City

October 30, 2022

Tomorrow, I leave the apartment I’ve been renting in Valencia for the past four weeks. Yes, I’m a bit sad, as this has become like home. Since I started my wandering life four months ago, this has been my most extended stay in one place.

What will I miss most? The sounds.

There is a daycare center nearby. On weekdays, I hear the children playing and laughing.

There is a church in the distance whose bells ring at off times. I find it delightful that no one has bothered to fix them.

People talking in the street. (Okay, not the 3:00 AM conversations.) Sometimes I hear the excitement in their voices.

Music from the church across the street. It is a relatively new church without a bell tower. On Sundays, Mass is offered several times a day. I love hearing the hymns.

The cars and busses on the boulevard around the corner. I think about everyone headed here and there, to work, to school, and home for lunch.

I have never felt lonely in this apartment because so much is happening around me.

The Avenue around the corner form my Valencia apartment

What else will I miss?

Francisco (Frank), my neighborhood produce guy. He always strikes up a friendly conversation when I stop in. I went down to say goodbye to him this morning. (He opens until 2:00 on Sundays since the supermarket is closed.) He teared up a bit. I think I did, too.

The ability to walk to so many beautiful places. I have never lived centrally located in a major city. Within a twenty-minute walk, I could visit many of the significant sights in Valencia, from the city center to the Arts and Sciences area and from the train station to several parks. Aside from that, I could easily get on a bus to the beach or a metro to places further out.

October sunshine in Valencia’s Central Park

I’m really not a city person. Maybe that’s why I have embraced the change.

View of la *Plaza Redonda* from *Torres de Quart*

Treasuring Downtime

October 27, 2022

When you travel for several weeks, or in my case, months at a time, there is a certain pressure to go and see things every day. After all, I’m in a new city, state, or country; I can’t just sit around and read a book all day. There is always some downtime in the evenings—usually required due to aching feet—which is certainly welcome. But I absolutely treasure days when I have no particular agenda.

My days in Valencia are numbered. Today is Thursday, and I leave Monday morning. You might think I would be rushing around to see and do things before I go, but I’ve been here for almost a month. I have seen much and don’t feel any pressure to see or do more. I do need to do some shopping, but that’s it. I can get to that later.

One of my favorite features of the Valencia apartment: the tiny balcony

So today, I’m enjoying the ultimate leisurely morning.

I love breakfast. I wake up starving every day. Believe me, I consider myself lucky to have a strong metabolism at my age. (By the way, my dream man would wake up just a bit earlier than I and serve me a splendid offering of fruit, tea, and an omelet. That’s not asking too much, is it?)

Today, I got up, put on the tea water, peeled a Mandarin orange, and took some blueberries out of the frig. So, here’s the quirky part: I eat my fruit and drink my tea first. Then, ideally, I wait thirty minutes or so to eat breakfast, part two, the omelet, or whatever I’m craving that morning. (Today’s consisted of bacon, mushroom, and avocado with a small slice of Spanish tortilla on the side.) Then I finished with a second cup of tea, my vitamins, and a small piece of chocolate. I guess that’s another quirk. Dark chocolate is my coffee replacement.

I also ran a load of laundry at one point and will get into my morning yoga routine after I finish writing.

It may be noon before I get out the door. But I remind myself that I’m free. I’m no longer tied to the intense schedule of a classroom teacher. As my friend the produce man said, I’m “living.” I get to choose how to spend my days. And I cherish each one of them.

I went into the city that afternoon to buy a new suitcase and boots.

Just One More Block

October 26, 2022

Today I arrived back at my apartment in Valencia after spending a couple of days in Madrid with a friend who was visiting over the past two weeks. Returning to a place that feels like home after being so busy playing tour guide was a relief. I had a free afternoon to do whatever I wanted.
My friend here in Valencia, who recently moved here full-time from the US, had suggested that I spend as much time as possible walking around the city to get a feel for streets and neighborhoods. Now that I have been to almost every church, museum, park, and cultural monument in the city, I can slow down and stroll around these last few days before continuing north.
I decided to walk down some streets in the local Ruzafa (Russafa) neighborhood. I stopped at a clothing shop and picked up a nightgown for later in the journey when I will meet up with an old friend for a couple of weeks. It was fun to walk into, rather than by, one of those local clothing shops that sells cotton granny panties, bras, pajamas, and bathrobes. The woman asked what size, and I said, “medium?” She asked if it was for me, and I confirmed (in Spanish, of course). She agreed that medium would be fine and showed me five options with short and long sleeves in my size. I picked a long-sleeved cotton one that was a bargain at ten euros.

I then spotted Saint Valero and San Vicente church just behind the Ruzafa Market. I had never ventured beyond the market because every time before, my hands were full of groceries, and I needed to get them home.
It’s a lovely old church, and I sure wish it had been open. I wonder if it is the church whose bells ring at the wrong time all day long.

As I continued toward the apartment, I walked by more shops and restaurants that were local hangouts. I can see why Ruzafa (Russafa) has become a popular place to live. It’s close to downtown, but not too close, and still has that cozy neighborhood feel. Far from perfect and polished, yet welcoming.

As I sit here typing, those familiar bells ring in the distance. It’s 8:23, right on time.

Age is Just a Number

October 21, 2022

Today my friend and I went up to Port Sapalaya. It’s a coastal community just north of Valencia, where the houses are built along canals. It’s known as the “Venice of Valencia.” Indeed, someone had a clever idea in creating it. The residents can safely store their boats alongside their homes and cruise out to enjoy the Mediterranean in minutes. Some houses are two- or three-story while others are pisos or one-level apartments.

We enjoyed our stroll through the neighborhood and took in the beauty of flowers blooming in October.

Then it was time to find some lunch. Since we’re now into the off-season, the restaurant wasn’t crowded. We struggled to communicate with the non-English-speaking waiter because the online menu was stuck in English; I couldn’t get it to flip over to Spanish to place the order. An older couple from the table next to us stood up to help. They spoke a bit of English, and I ensured we were getting what we wanted for lunch. I thought the two of them must have been the restaurant’s owners or managers.

My friend wanted to try a glass of the amber-colored rosé that was on the table, but it was only available by the bottle. They offered red or white wine by the glass. Since they didn’t have any gluten-free beer, and they were trying to talk us into a bottle, I said, “Sure, why not?” Neither of us is a big drinker; we hadn’t yet splurged on drinks.

The funny thing was that the server brought a completely different bottle of wine to the table. My friend was initially disappointed because she wanted to try the other wine. The manager said that we could try it, and they would take it back if we didn’t like it. It was delicious, a little sweet, but light. Perfect for a warm afternoon at the beach.

Seeing that we were happy, our hostess began to chat with us, in Spanish, of course! (My friend doesn’t speak Spanish.) Our hostess told us how we needed to enjoy our retirement years because who knows how many years we have left? Her advice was to get up every morning, give yourself a virtual kiss, and say that you are a princess. In the evening, you must go out, drink wine, dance, and “brin-brin.” (I’m still not exactly sure what brin-brin means, but I felt like it meant to sparkle.) She kept talking and talking. Would she leave before our food arrived?

Finally, she said she needed to go prepare our food and left. Clearly, she wasn’t the chef because she found another table to chat up.

She was 77 years old and looked like she was in her 50s. Maybe we should all heed her advice.

We enjoyed our leisurely seafood lunch and sipped that delicious wine in the afternoon sun. Afterward, we strolled down the beach to the city beach of Valencia. The wind picked up, and the clouds came in as we walked, creating artful skies. It even sprinkled a bit, a glorious afternoon!

Deceiving First Impressions

October 12, 2022

This picture has nothing to do with this post except that it’s in Valencia, Spain.

This morning I walked to the Ruzafa market to pick up the produce on my list and maybe a little meat. (I wanted to have an abundance of food on hand for my friend who is arriving this afternoon.) It was 10:00, but it was quiet for a Wednesday. Some shops were closed, and others were open. Hm…

When I reached the market, I remembered that today was a national holiday. Not to worry—I have enough food on hand. I stopped at a little health food store/bakery and got some avocados. They didn’t have much gluten-free stuff, but there were some interesting items, and the woman working there was friendly. Finally, I checked to see if the Consum grocery store was open. Nope.

On my street, there is a small fruit and vegetable shop. I stopped there the evening I arrived, and the owner scared me off a bit. I had forgotten eggs at the grocery store and was going to grab a half dozen from him. They seemed expensive—2.20 euros. I only had a 20, and he didn’t have the correct change. I didn’t have anything smaller. He told me to take the eggs, and I could pay him later. His delivery was a bit abrupt, though, and I got nervous. I decided to go without the eggs until the next day.

So, the veggie man’s shop was the only other place where I could pick up some produce today. I walked in and grabbed a lemon and some bananas. Then he asked if I wanted any spinach. Oh, he’s hiding some vegetables in the back! I asked if he had broccoli. He opened a refrigerator, and there were two beautiful broccoli crowns. Forget the spinach.

Then he asked where I was from and how long I would be staying in Valencia. We talked about the differences between the US and Spain. He understood that it was more stressful to live in the US. In fact, he brought it up. I told him I had visited Spain several times and studied here twice. Then he grabbed his map from the top drawer and suggested places to see on the Mediterranean Coast. Very kind of him! He also complimented my Spanish and thought it was great that I was “living” and enjoying my travels. Who needs the big market? The veggie man just got a new customer.

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