My Biggest Dilemma (Which Eventually Resolved Itself)

October 11, 2022

I’m truly enjoying my time in Valencia despite my aching feet. Since visiting with the Spanish family last weekend, I have probably been thinking too much about where I want to live when I return next year. In fact, I’m a bit obsessed. I keep researching smaller towns in eastern Spain. Then I look at the real estate sites. But do I really want to live in a small town? Won’t I get bored? Would I have social life? Is there a city that is big enough but not too big? If I were closer to the mountains, I could ski…

Then I worry about Valencia being too noisy for me. In some ways, I like the noise. I never feel entirely alone. Other neighborhoods would be quieter, though. I like the botanical garden. What if I could get an apartment that backs on the garden? That would be sweet!

My friends talked about the possibility of finding an area that was accessible by metro on the outskirts of the city. But again, I don’t want to live in the suburbs, and when people visit, they want to see the city.

Now, do you understand what I’ve been going through? I know. It has to be where I want to live. Don’t choose your home based on potential visitors.

How many Airbnb’s have a bookcase like this?

I fell in love with this apartment the moment I walked in. It has super-high ceilings, over ten feet, more like twelve. The desk sits in front of the “wall of windows.” I love the natural daylight, but I have the privacy of frosted and colored glass. Throughout the apartment, the walls are bright white with sparse décor. It’s clean and happy without being cluttered. The preserved original tile mosaic floors are charming, as are many other details in this turn-of-the-century home. I couldn’t imagine a better place to write. And the built-in bookcase has some interesting reading material. It would be great if the owner were willing to lease it to me at a lower rate for a longer term.

Sometimes the Universe, God, or our higher power hears us. Yesterday, I received a message from my host:

Hi Shannon.

Hope you are well, I wanted to ask you because I thought I understood that you wanted to stay longer in Valencia (maybe you were thinking of staying a year, or am I wrong?).

I mention it because I’m interested in long-term rentals and you might be interested in staying at my house longer.

We then proceeded to message back and forth. Me with questions and he with answers. He’s looking at the numbers and has promised to get back to me with a price and terms. I’ll stop obsessing for a while.

January 24, 2023

By the time my month-long stay in Valencia had ended, I had come to an important realization. I’m not ready to settle in one spot—adventure is what I want now.

When my host got back to me with a number, I had already decided to continue my wandering life. There’s so much more of the world that I want to see. I’ve loved Costa Rica for decades, but somehow, I have never visited. Machu Pichu, the Galapagos…the list goes on.

Best Paella Ever

October 9, 2022

I have to confess that I’m not a huge paella fan. I love a Spanish tortilla, some olives, flan, and jamón, but I’m not a big rice fan. It just feels like filler. In fact, the rice dish I had in a restaurant recently was a lot of rice and a little meat and vegetables. I prefer to fill up on healthier things.
Today, my high school friend, who is in Valencia for a week, invited me to join her and her husband on a visit to her “Spanish family.” I felt honored to tag along to meet her Spanish mom and brother and his family. They had just bought a house outside the city, and it even had a pool in the backyard! And her brother’s wife was making paella for us.
The house was beautiful; I could see how proud they were of their new place. They had enjoyed spending time there this summer, and the two teenage girls loved the pool and the ample space of the house.
She had some of the ingredients out for the paella: artichokes and giant beans. Already, it promised to be a different kind of paella.
After some social time and appetizers, she got out the gas burner and paella pan. The pan was almost two feet wide. She considered using a bigger one but decided this would be big enough for eight people.

Lots of olive oil, chicken pieces, and green beans… Then add the artichoke hearts.

Spanish paprika and tomato sauce (She uses turmeric instead of saffron.)

Add rice (I missed that picture!) and sauté. Then add chicken broth and simmer.

In the end, there was plenty for all. Everyone had seconds or thirds, including me.
As you can see from the photos, it was delicious! It may have tasted better combined with good company.

She Needed a Shower

October 6, 2022

Yesterday there was rain in the forecast. The skies were cloudy, and a few drops fell here and there. I enjoyed a three-hour Spanish lunch with an old friend from high school and three of her Spanish friends. The most expressive of the group kept joking about the threat of rain, saying things like, “I think four drops just fell.”

Murals in the neighborhood where we had lunch (near the port)

Throughout the afternoon, it was like that, a little spit from the sky here and there.

After I arrived home, I decided an early evening walk was needed to work off the three-course lunch. The spit turned into a steady sprinkle, and once I sat down for a light dinner of soup and salad, it was legitimately raining.

Making the most of the fresh produce from Ruzafa Market

It rained steadily through the night, and I woke up to that familiar pitter-patter of perfect rainfall this morning—not an out-and-out downpour, but pleasant, steady drops that require a rain jacket or umbrella.

Valencia needed a shower in the worst way. Just yesterday, my friend commented that the streets seemed dirtier than she remembered. She was concerned that her favorite Spanish city was going downhill.

At lunch, her Spanish friends told us about the rising electricity cost and water scarcity. I imagine people aren’t going out and washing down the sidewalks in front of their businesses as Spanish usually do. Also, dog ownership grew dramatically during the pandemic. Even though most people clean up after their pets, there is residue of poop and pee. It all made sense now.

The rain is supposed to taper off by 9:00 or so. After I finish this second cup of tea, it looks like a good day for the archaeological museum.

Valencia’s Archeological Musem is not to be missed. You’ll want to see what is under the water feature!

Thinking About Space

October 5, 2022

Do you ever think about space and what it means to you? No, I’m not talking about the stars, planets, universe kind of space—these days, I’m thinking about the spaces we occupy.

Why?

I sold my home a few months ago and have been traveling or staying with friends and family ever since. I’ve occupied various hotel rooms, condos, and bedrooms at friends’ houses. This is all by choice, mind you. Don’t get worried that this poor woman is desperate and homeless. I’m taking some time out, a self-imposed sabbatical, to see what’s next.

In Lisbon, Portugal, I recently stayed in a studio apartment that was smaller than most hotel rooms. There was just enough space to walk around the double bed; I’m sure it was less than eight feet wide. The kitchenette was on the wall opposite the bed, with a skinny bar-style table for two and a small desk in between. I’m not really complaining, though. It did have two big windows, which at least made it tolerable. It was also equipped with a safe in the entryway, a foot-long bar with six hangers, and an iron and ironing board, a rarity in European hotel rooms. Someone had put a lot of thought into making that tiny space efficient. And really, you’re in Lisbon. Get out and see the sights instead of hanging out in your room!

But I needed to take some breaks to rest, and I could barely stand in the room. It just wasn’t enough space. In contrast, I stayed in a studio in Porto, Portugal, that was at least double, possibly triple, the size. It was equipped with a Juliette balcony plus two large windows. The ceilings were at least ten feet high, and I loved it! The kitchenette was well-equipped, and I did quite a bit of cooking, saving the expense of eating out. (I’m also a health nut with Celiac Disease.)

Two days ago, I arrived in Valencia, Spain. This is the longest stay of my 90-day European adventure. I’ll be here for four weeks. I got lucky on Airbnb and found a super-cool apartment in a desirable area—Ruzafa. The host is particular about his renters. There is a minimum twenty-day stay with a maximum of two people occupying the apartment. It’s a rather large two-bedroom apartment, at least 1000 square feet. I think he initially rented to bigger groups and had some negative experiences.

The online pictures looked enticing, and all the reviews were five-star. That made me hopeful. I liked that the owner was picky; that meant he cared about the property. He had worked to preserve the original character of the apartment, which I appreciate. Of course, he doesn’t want someone trashing it.

From the man bedroom, access the balcony through this window.

When I arrived, I was pleasantly surprised. It was even better than the photos had indicated. The owner should have shared charming features like the small atrium with plants on the wall. Each room has natural light. The primary bedroom has bay windows, and the smaller bedroom has a balcony attached, which can also be accessed through a tall skinny window in the master. The kitchen has been updated with new appliances and a sizeable refrigerator.

But the best part is the great room space. At least one wall was removed to create an open space. It has floor-to-ceiling windows, some with colored glass, about 12 by 12 feet. You read correctly, 12-foot ceilings! I’m sitting here typing at the midcentury desk, surrounded by plants, facing the wall of windows. The great room space is about 20 by 20 feet in its entirety. One corner provides the perfect space for my temporary yoga studio. The original tile mosaic floors in the dining area and those in the bedrooms and entryway have been preserved. I genuinely feel privileged to occupy this space for a few weeks.

For some people, space is insignificant. For others, it is everything. My twenty-something sons don’t care much about space. When my older son got his first job out of college, he moved across the country and lived in a one-bedroom apartment with no art on the walls that was furnished with a bed, a chair, and a TV. That’s it. The rest wasn’t necessary for him. He knew he’d only be there for two years, so he wanted to avoid investing further.

When I was younger, space wasn’t that important to me either. After studying in Spain for a semester, a friend and I traveled through Europe for six weeks with backpacks and Eurail passes. We stayed in some dumpy rooms with terrible beds and sometimes shared bathrooms. I’d never survive that now.

Since divorcing nine years ago, I have lived in several places (even before selling my most recent home). I now understand that I was searching for the right space. I lived in a two-story townhome-style condo for four years, which was tolerable. The downstairs had nine-foot ceilings and oversized windows with views of evergreen trees. Not bad. The main bedroom upstairs was large, but the ensuite bathroom was small. I renovated the bathroom, which made it more my space. Besides that, I haven’t lived in a place for over two years. It’s been a restless stretch.

Sitting here now, I know what I need to be happy: natural light, ample space to move around, a well-equipped kitchen, and inviting spaces to read, write, and practice yoga. I don’t care how small the bedroom and bath might be. I don’t live in those spaces. It’s all about the space I occupy in my waking hours.

Trying Out Valencia

October 5, 2022

It’s nice to finally be here. After a month of traveling from place to place, I get a break from the daily pressure to see things or to move on to the following location.

I arrived two days ago around 5:45 PM. Disembarking from the plane was slow, but my suitcase was already waiting for me at baggage claim. The Valencia airport is modern and small, and I found the taxi stand easily.

My taxi driver, the first female driver I’ve ever encountered in Spain, was a real character. At first, she didn’t say much. Then she asked if I spoke Spanish. Once I responded, the floodgates opened! She was a talker. She told me about Spain, where to visit, and who spoke the best Spanish in the world. (In Spain, it was the people of Valladolid.) She also held the Basques in high regard. She described them as more rigid than other Spaniards with a stronger work ethic.

By the time we got through traffic, it was almost 7:00. My host was in the apartment awaiting my arrival. He, too, was excited and a bit relieved when I told him I spoke Spanish. He responded that it made explaining everything a lot easier for him. He’s clearly a meticulous fellow and takes pride in the apartment. The vintage apartment has mosaic floors in the bedrooms, entryway, and dining area. The windows are original, including the not-so-easy-to-operate wooden blinds. He’s taken steps to preserve the original beauty as much as possible.

Light and bright! The perfect place to write.

As soon as he left, I walked to the conveniently located Consum grocery store just around the corner. I find Spanish city grocery stores fascinating. From the outside, they often appear small, but when you walk in, most of them are amazingly huge! They go back deeply into the city block. Occasionally, you will walk into one that is two stories. My host had recommended this one because the prices were reasonable, and it is so close.

I grabbed as much as I thought I could carry (It was plenty.) and headed back to make a simple dinner of thin beef steaks, fried potatoes, and green beans. I also bought a tiny bottle of wine. I looked up the conversion, and it was 6.25 ounces, a glass for one. Not bad for 1.29 euros!

I slept well, as I usually do on travel days. Lugging that heavy suitcase around tends to wear me out. And the bed is comfortable. Yes! What would be worse than being stuck with an uncomfortable mattress for four weeks?

I woke up Tuesday morning refreshed but in no hurry. After breakfast, I walked to the Ruzafa Market. It’s not the prettiest Spanish market, but they had everything I could want. I walked the aisles, taking it all in, and decided to go with a mother-son team. Their prices looked good, and they weren’t talking on and on like some of the other vendors were. I know; it’s part of their social life, so I can’t complain. I also bought some olives, walnuts, and a treat made from sesame seeds.

…but they have everything you could want.

Back at the apartment, I did my laundry and made a big pot of chicken-vegetable soup. It was nice to cook again after staying in hotels for eight days. That had really started to get to me in Seville. I felt a bit trapped there!
I read a bit in the afternoon, relaxed on the sofa, and fell asleep. The rest was needed.

By 4:30, I regained energy and walked through the neighborhood and the Turia. I spotted a large health food store called Herbolario Navarros. What a find! They had more gluten-free items in one place than I had ever seen! They even had my brand of magnesium supplements, which I needed to refill.

Back at the apartment, I got on the computer and chatted with friends on Facebook. I’m looking forward to seeing my high-school friends, who will arrive in a couple of days. She lived in Valencia with her first husband and knows the city well.

I received a lengthy message from my host with suggestions and links to places to visit. He listed some of the more popular ones I have already seen, like the Cathedral, botanical garden, and Ceramics Museum, but there were many other places I had yet to see or would not have known about. So glad I have time to see them all!

I searched to see if any concerts were coming up at the Palau de las artes. Amazingly, there was a free concert the following evening. There were only about 20 seats left in the back, but one can’t complain about free!
Looking forward to that tonight.

My free nosebleed seats were fantastic indeed!

The Beautiful Stone Sidewalks and Plazas of Portugal

September 28, 2022

I’m wrapping up a three-and-a-half-week visit to Portugal as I make my way over to Seville. Before this trip, I had only spent a day in Portugal. Why? I have a love of Spain that I just can’t shake. Every time I leave, I want to return immediately.

Since I was spending three months in Europe, friends talked me into giving Portugal a chance. I must admit, it did not disappoint. I found the Portuguese people warm and welcoming. In all honesty, Portuguese food is better than Spanish food. (Sorry, Spain; I still love you with my heart and soul.)

One of Portugal’s trademarks is its stone sidewalks. It’s a rather clever idea. The stones are primarily black and white basalt set in as pavers which can be removed or replaced easily for maintenance. When work needs to be done, the stones are removed and can be replaced in the same pattern. There are numerous delightful patterns, especially in Lisbon.

The problem with these walkways is that they can be uneven and sometimes slick when it rains. I have stepped through some rather treacherous spots thinking, “What would this be like if I were in my seventies or eighties?” Apparently, some Portuguese people believe it is time to do away with them, while others are clamoring to keep the tradition.

The other problem is that they are hard on the feet. When walking on the city sidewalks, it is more like hiking on a rocky trail. The bottoms of my feet were aching terribly after the first couple of days in Porto, driving me to buy a new pair of sneakers with extra cushion and regretting that I left the Hokas back in the US.

And when I arrived in Lisbon, one of those stone sidewalks did a final number on my suitcase, completely removing the rubber on one of the wheels. I ended up dragging rather than rolling it to my rental apartment.

Still, I’m not angry with the sidewalks. People will tell you that Portugal is a little more rustic than the rest of Europe. The sidewalks are part of that rustic charm!

I guess I will be shopping for a new suitcase in Spain.

Here’s a sampling of some of my favorite sidewalks and plazas:

Nazaré: Notice the shades of pink stones.

The Time When Everything Went Wrong

September 21, 2022

Sometimes you check into a hotel, or in my case, a tiny studio apartment, and everything seems to go wrong.
I finally reached my apartment building in Lisbon and pushed the buzzer for reception. No answer. I tried again. No answer.

Then I remembered that there was a phone number with the confirmation. They had a short check-in window from 2:00 to 8:00 PM, and it was just after 2:00, so maybe they were late getting to work.

I called, and a man answered. Almost immediately, he appeared at my side to let me in. My, he was a handsome one, about my height and 40ish. He took my suitcase to help me up the first flight of stairs explaining that the elevator started on the first floor. (In Spain and Portugal, the ground floor is floor zero. What we Americans would consider the second floor; they would call the first.)

He checked me in but explained that the room wasn’t quite ready. Housekeeping was just finishing the cleaning, and it would take ten minutes or so. No problem. I didn’t mind waiting.

He brought me up and showed me how to use the code to get into the room. I then tried to set up the Wi-Fi on my phone. It didn’t work. He said he would reboot it and that I could use the same password to log into one of the other routers in the building.

I did my thing and got minimally settled. This was indeed a tiny apartment! It didn’t even have a closet, just a rack about a foot long with six hangers. It did have an iron and ironing board, though, something I had not yet seen on this trip. Oh, and a safe! I could lock up my computer when I was out and about.

Okay, a couple of things: Notice that there is about a foot of space to get in and out of the double, not queen, bed. Then, what if a couple rented this for their honeymoon?

I took a little rest before heading out to explore. The trip from Nazaré had been exhausting. Well, it was mostly the trip from the bus station to the apartment that did me in. Two subway rides with one escalator and one elevator out of service. Lugging that 40-pound suitcase up stairs is no easy feat!

I went to try my code on the safe, and it wouldn’t lock. I tried a different code and got an error message and a loud beeping noise. To my relief, the noise stopped after about 30 seconds.

I stopped at the office on the way out to let Mr. Handsome know about the safe. He insisted on coming back up with me to see if he could reset it. Not what I wanted to do, but better to get it over with. He had the same thing happen; beep, beep, beep…I told him not to worry about it, and he said he would fix it tomorrow.

I wouldn’t let a problematic apartment keep me from enjoying Lisbon!

It was a hot but fantastic afternoon of sightseeing. I followed the Rick Steves Baixa Stroll and was delighted that the apartment was within the map’s boundaries. In fact, it was just a few blocks from the beginning of the walk. After some gelato at the Plaza of Commerce, I made my way up to the Rossio train station, had dinner, bought some groceries, and returned to the apartment, ready to relax for the evening.

The day had been hot and humid, so I turned on the air conditioner and got ready for a shower. I noticed a steady drip of water coming down and got the big soup pot under it.

After the shower, I noticed the hair dryer didn’t work. Earlier that day, I had thought that I could have left my little travel hairdryer at home because every place seems to have one. That had to be the last malfunctioning/broken thing in this tiny apartment.

Nope. I couldn’t get the computer connected to the internet. When I finally got on one of the other routers, the signal was so weak that I couldn’t even surf the net or check Facebook.

At least there was a TV. I turned it on, and all the stations were that telltale blizzard. I guessed the cable wasn’t working either. I checked the back of the TV and saw that the cable was just disconnected. I plugged it back in, and all was well. At least I could veg out and watch some HGTV shows.

The next day…

Today after my morning outing, I stopped at the office to tell them about the dripping air conditioner. Again, Mr. Handsome insisted that he send the maintenance guy up right away to try and fix it, and he would get the safe working for me. I wanted to rest for a bit but getting it out of the way was good. Some new batteries took care of the safe, and I can now lock up the computer. The maintenance guy switched out the filters but was sure there was more to fix.

Mr. Handsome was still there after the maintenance guy left. I mentioned that I had heard him speaking perfect Spanish on the phone earlier and asked why he spoke it so well. He seemed pleased to know that I spoke Spanish. He explained that he had worked as a flight attendant based out of Madrid and had traveled the world for five years. Then he assured me that I would continue to pick up Portuguese and that there were a lot of similarities to Spanish. He also showed me the other hairdryer that was hiding in the cupboard. (The one attached to the wall was old and no longer worked.)
The air conditioner began dripping almost as soon as they left. But no one was in the office when I went to leave for my afternoon outing.

When I returned, I broke the bad news to Mr. Handsome. He said they were fully booked but would see if he could get me into a different apartment tomorrow since the technician couldn’t get here right away. I assured him that I would be fine either way.

I won’t mind another conversation with Mr. Handsome, though. He looks deeply into my eyes when he talks to me as if he can dive into my soul.

Ultimately, I stayed in the tiny apartment with the dripping air conditioner. My days in Lisbon were packed with so many beautiful sights to see.

Coimbra, Portugal: Gluten-Free Gastronomic Delights!

September 16, 2022

One of the great things about travel is the unexpected surprises. I have traveled throughout Spain several times, but for some reason, I never spent time in Portugal. I guess it’s just that magical attraction of Spain that kept me coming back.

Last spring, I decided to retire early from teaching and explore the possibility of residing in Spain. More than half of the people I talked to suggested I explore Portugal, too. Since I had 90 days, I decided to give Portugal a chance.

I planned most of my itinerary based on a friend’s suggestions. She pulled out her photo album from a two-week trip to Portugal, and I took notes.

Coimbra is the only place I picked on my own, partly because of its location. I also liked that it was a university town, the “Oxford of Portugal.”

When I arrive in a new place, I look up gluten-free restaurants. Coimbra ended up being celiac foodie heaven! Additionally, I was staying in a hotel because I couldn’t find a studio apartment that fit my budget and location requirements. That meant dinners out. (While traveling, I prepare most of my food to save money and eat healthily.)

I immediately found eleven restaurants offering gluten-free menus or at least GF dishes. I dined very well on each of the three nights of my stay.

Tuesday night at Refeitro da Baixa, I was first served a delicious gluten-free whole-grain bread with butter and olive oil. The next course was a lovely vegetable soup, and I splurged on the slow-cooked beef in wine sauce with vegetables and potato puree. Enjoying a gourmet meal in a unique environment (a former ceramics factory) without worrying about gluten contamination was wonderful!

Part of the ceramics factory was still there. Maybe they rent out part of the building to the restaurant?

Wednesday’s lunch was at Sete. They didn’t take lunch reservations, so I arrived when they opened to be sure to get a table. It had been a rainy day, so I decided to make it a leisurely lunch while I watched to downpour outside. I started with a GF Super Bock and olives, followed by vegetable soup (squash-based) and salmon with vegetables. Every bite was so delicious that I considered scrapping my dinner plans to return.

Salmon, veggies, and black quinoa on the side

Wednesday evening, I dined at No Tacho. It was a busy, noisy little place, but the food and service were excellent. My dinner started with a small glass of sparkling wine and an appetizer on the house. Their plan worked; I ordered a glass. I branched out and tried the octopus salad. It wasn’t really my thing, but it was good. Then I had risotto with pork tenderloin—delicious!

Thursday, I took the bus to Fatima. I was in the neighborhood, so I couldn’t miss one of the world’s holiest sites.

I returned with plenty of daylight to spare and decided on Tapas Nos Costas for dinner. I cheated a little, eating Spanish food in Portugal, but it was oh-so-good and not typically Spanish.

First, I had a romantic table for two in a stone alcove. (Would my mystery Portuguese boyfriend magically appear?) I had a salad with orange, roasted fennel, and lamb chops with honey and almonds, both incredible! Room for dessert? Sure. Basque cheesecake with blueberries! Oh, my. I never eat cheesecake. It was moist and lighter than our American stuff!

But wait, there’s more to tell. When in Coimbra, you absolutely must go to Cosi Gelato. All the gelato and sorbet are made on-site with fresh ingredients. The best part is that you can order a small and get two flavors. I went all four days that I was in Coimbra and tried different sorbets every day: avocado-lime, pineapple-mint, mango-coconut, fig, passion fruit…each one was delicious! There are more than 100 flavors that rotate through.

My train left at 1:40 on Friday. I figured I could check out of my room, leave the suitcase at the hotel, run to Cosi Gelato to arrive when it opened, and still get back to pick up my luggage in time. There was some distance to cover, but my legs were in excellent shape from all the Portuguese hill walking. Are you starting to see how food motivates me?

I arrived at noon, and a man I had yet to meet greeted me from behind the counter. I asked if he was the owner, and he confirmed. We had a lovely conversation. He told me about the places I should see in Portugal and showed me pictures of the massive waves in Nazaré, my next stop. I thought, “Could he be single? I think I’m in love!” Heck, I was already in love with the sorbet. I could live happily ever after in Coimbra.

I could have stayed much longer, but there was that train to catch. I honestly will return to Coimbra just to eat at Cosi Gelato. It’s that good! And it is a cool university town.

Last Day in Porto

September 12, 2022

What a week it has been here in Porto! It’s always nice when something exceeds expectations, and Porto certainly has. I have been charmed by the city since my driver dropped me off a week ago. My little studio apartment is in an ideal location, and I’ve had fun cooking in my petite yet fully equipped kitchen. (The convection/microwave oven is the bomb.)

The hills of Porto have helped me burn calories. My legs are looking good. In fact, I feel healthier. I am recuperating from the stress of the past three years. It feels good to let go and just enjoy the experiences.

I am also getting better at just rolling with it. I am well aware that life is not going to go to plan. Sometimes the unexpected ends up being the best or most memorable. I remember missing the bus the other day. The walk down through the Foz ended up being better than riding the bus. Then today, I had planned to go on a bike ride. It ended up being a rainy day, so that idea was out. Instead, I went to the little cheese shop up the street this afternoon, and I’m so happy I did! When was the last time you had a sausage grilled at your table?

House sheep cheese with house-made pumpkin jam! Incredible!

Things I loved about Porto:

My little studio apartment. The location is perfect, just a block from Santa Catarina pedestrian street and the Majestic Café.

The stone sidewalks. Hard on the feet but so charming!

People are generally amiable and feel down to earth. I’m not feeling any snobbery here.
Whimsical and lively public art

The carillon (it looks like a huge cuckoo clock) rings every quarter hour starting at 9:00 AM and plays a song on the hour. I didn’t see it in person until the end of my week here!

Sorry! Bad pic. I took this from the apartment.

There are hills, lots of hills. You’ll stay in shape walking here.
One-hour full body massage for 30 euros.
Lots of musicians and singers throughout the city streets

Groups of people spontaneously break out in song.
The Douro River is gorgeous, and the scenery is varied.

Parks and plazas.

Tiled buildings, especially the churches

Market equal to Spanish markets (I have traveled extensively through Spain.)
Beautiful beaches on the Atlantic Ocean

A Perfect Day in Porto

September 11, 2022

Today was a good day, despite being September 11th. Back home, the smoke from forest fires is thick and so harmful that some people are staying in. I have beautiful clear skies here. So much to be grateful for!

It’s Sunday, so I got up and went to Mass. Okay, I didn’t get the best sleep; it was a noisy Saturday night! I know I didn’t get to sleep until after midnight. When I woke up around 7:00, I set the alarm for 9:30 and went back to sleep. My body has been begging for rest. It is partly because I am letting go of my stress and emotionally recuperating. In addition, I walk like a crazy woman every day. Either way, it is all good. My body feels strong and healthy. The Iberian life is good for me. The “not-teaching high school life” is also good for me.

Mass at the Cathedral was at 11:00, about a ten-minute walk from here. Perfect! I showered, shampooed, and even put on some jewelry and my nicest blouse. I wish I understood more Portuguese because I could tell it was a good sermon. I made out that he was talking about God and peace and that God’s peace was for everyone. The priest was young, about 40, and had a pleasant demeanor. After Mass, in English, he thanked the visitors for coming and wished us a blessed visit in Porto. I could tell he was a good guy!

When Mass ended, the organist kept playing for about 20 minutes, which made touring the cathedral even more special. I’ve been to many cathedrals and churches in Spain, and I can’t say this one was amazing or outstanding; it was just a pleasant visit.

I walked around the plaza, checked out the view, got a few photos, and decided to find that little restaurant with gluten-free breakfast items. It hadn’t been that long since I had eaten breakfast, but I’m always up for a second round of chow!
The gluten-free veggie crepe was interesting, but it could have been better if they had heated it enough to melt the cheese. I didn’t complain, though. It was nice to be in a gluten-safe place.

I realized I hadn’t picked up my tour book pages or a map before leaving the apartment, so I returned after lunch. I did a little yoga and decided that a nap would be a good idea. Just 20 minutes to get recharged.

I then took off to do the upper part of the Rick Steves walking tour. Oh my! I think he had me walking the steepest streets in the city! And there were a couple of detours with all the construction going on. I saw some more plazas and parks and the Clerigos church and tower. Definitely worth the visit! I also went to the Imperial McDonalds; I didn’t order anything, but at least I saw it. Satisfied that I had finished my sightseeing, I stopped at the Pingo Doce before returning to the apartment. I had plans to roast a chicken for dinner and enjoy an afternoon GF beer.

The chicken was pretty fabulous. I added leftover lemon, figs, onion, and olives. I roasted some potato, onion, and the rest of the carrot in a separate pan. It was quite the gourmet dinner, along with last night’s leftover green veggies.

Lemon-fig chicken with roasted potatoes on the side!

After dinner, I went for a walk down the Santa Catarina. A musician was singing and playing his see-through guitar while wearing a white see-through skirt. He was wearing a man-thong under it; I could see when I walked behind him!

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