I recently spent three weeks in Scandinavia. It was a sampler trip, my first visit to explore the region. I have to say, I loved it! Beautiful scenery, water, islands, and history-filled cities—my kind of stuff. My time included a cruise from Copenhagen up the Norwegian coast and through the Geiranger Fjord. The scenery was stunning, and the town of Geiranger was charming. I also visited Oslo and Copenhagen.
But the highlight of my visit was Gothenburg, Sweden. I chose it over Stockholm, partly because it was in a more accessible location and partly because it was smaller. Gothenburg is one of those “just right” European cities. It’s not too big, but there’s plenty to see and do. It’s mostly walkable, and you can also get around using the charming trams throughout the city. I arrived from Copenhagen by train. Just steps away, I found the tram station, hopped on, and rode to my accommodation for the next few nights.
It was a change from the studio apartments I typically rent. I had a private room and bathroom, but the building had a shared kitchen. I figured it must have been student housing before the large, modern dorms were built.
My corner room had a high cozy factor; the bed was amazingly comfortable, and look at that cute vintage-style refrigerator! I didn’t mind walking down one flight of stairs to use the kitchen since the room had a full tea and coffee service.
The brick building was charming, with well-kept grounds. I had a corner room with views in two directions.
Gothenburg’s city center is walkable and has everything you could want. The public market is upscale, with shops and restaurants. Gluten-free people like myself will be happy to find several baked good options at Steinbrenner & Nyberg. A walk through the historic Haga neighborhood is a must. There are cute shops selling Swedish products and cafés everywhere. Again, I found some yummy gluten-free treats at Café Husaren and enjoyed a gluten-free and vegan lunch at En Deli Haga.
If you love public gardens like I do, you’ll love Gothenburg. Tradgardsforeningen, or The Garden Society, is near the heart of the city. One thing I love is that it was created in the 1800s by the citizens (which also makes it one of the oldest public gardens in Europe). They sold memberships to create beautiful grounds for all to enjoy. I also visited the garden café and had an exquisite salmon lunch.
The Botanical Garden is a short distance from the city center, but you can easily reach it by tram. It is expansive, and you will get your steps in for the day. If you visit, take the short hike up to the viewpoint. You could spend a good part of a day wandering the grounds. It is one of the most exquisite botanical gardens I have ever visited.
You won’t pay an admission fee for either garden, but you can leave a donation. In addition to the gardens, you will find numerous parks throughout the city, some with fantastic viewpoints. My favorite was Skansen Kronan, where you will see a historic fortress and enjoy a nice view of the city.
Then, there’s Slottsskogen, the massive park at the edge of the city near the Botanical Garden.
One day, I took tram #11 to the end of the line to catch a passenger ferry to Styrso Island. The islands in the archipelago generally don’t have cars. Most people get around on bicycles and golf carts. I enjoyed a wander around the island. If I were to return, I would definitely spend more time on the islands.
Another highlight was the newly constructed World of Volvo. I’m not generally a car museum person, but my family has a particular affinity for them. If you’re into architecture, it’s worth a visit to step inside the gorgeous five-story structure. The museum is on the third floor, but be sure to wander around the rest of the building. It is truly an architectural marvel!
Volvo’s 1976 electric car!
Amusement park fans will find Liseberg just a couple of blocks from the World of Volvo. It’s not my thing, but the hundred-year-old park is a favorite destination for many. So, I say, let everyone else visit Oslo and Copenhagen, and we’ll keep Gothenburg our little secret.
Two years ago, I sold my home and most of my possessions to embark on a life of more adventure, higher happiness, and less stuff. I’ve experienced a lot and am still figuring it out. Here are some of the things I’ve learned along the way.
There are no Rules
Everyone has an opinion or wants to throw out an acronym. Did you FIRE? Are you a Slomad? Some people give up all their possessions and live out of backpacks, while others keep a home. I’m somewhere in between. I no longer own a home but have a car and rent a storage unit. And no, I don’t sleep in my car.
The reality is—who cares about labels? Do your own thing. I initially considered living as an expat in Spain. I soon realized I preferred moving around and experiencing different cultures. Additionally, I love my friends and family in the US, so I spend about half my year here.
If you’re thinking of giving it a try, do just that. Try it out. Maybe you can take a leave of absence and go on an adventure. I have been an enthusiastic traveler my entire adult life. As a teacher, I could take long summer trips once my kids had left the nest. I had a pretty good idea of what I was getting into. Living as a nomad is different than taking a ten-day vacation, though.
This lifestyle isn’t for everyone, and that’s okay.
Don’t Make Big Plans
Plans change. That’s the reality whether you live a nomadic life or not. When I returned from an extended visit to Europe in December 2022, I found my sister in an unhealthy state. I dropped all my plans to take care of her. Sadly, she passed away from pancreatic cancer a few weeks later. But I am happy I could be with her in her final weeks.
I do, however, make general plans. It’s April, and I have a skeleton plan for the rest of my year. That’s partly my personality and partly that I get requests for house sits. Would you turn down two weeks taking care of a cat in Hawaii?
Housesitting is a Huge Budget Saver
I first learned about housesitting over a decade ago, and it has been part of my retirement plan ever since. I have to say, I mostly love it. I enjoy meeting new people and their pets, and pet parents are grateful for the service. I also get a free place to stay with furry roommates.
I have completed nineteen house sits in the past year. Six have been for friends, thirteen from Trusted House Sitters, and two have been “no pet” sits. The length of sits has been between three days and seven weeks. A couple pets have been a little challenging, but it has mostly been a positive experience. Some people leave snacks, and some invite me for dinner the night before the sit. In total, I have stayed for free 165 nights over the past year, and I’ve made new friends, too.
Get a Credit Card (or Two) to Support Your Lifestyle
I have one card that gets me free hotel stays and one that racks up airline miles. Some people continually open new credit cards to get free points. That’s not really my style. But again, I’m not making the rules.
Call in Your Support People
I am fortunate to have friends and family members who support me in various ways. I have a home base and permanent address with a family member. Several people in my life have offered me a place to stay, whether I’m traveling around the western US or needing a place to crash between house sits.
When I travel outside the country, I have a family member and a friend who allow me to park my car on their property.
Not everyone has such good fortune; I am grateful for their support.
You Meet a lot of Interesting People
I strike up more conversations with strangers than I used to. I believe I am more open, given my lifestyle. Another aspect is my “dog magnetism.” Ever since I started pet sitting, I tend to chat with dog owners, even when I’m not walking a dog.
While abroad, I’ve met some fellow adventurers and have started meeting up with new friends in other countries.
Find the Combination that Works for You
As I stated earlier, I like to spend part of my year in the Western US near friends and family. I love southern Europe and will never tire of Spain, Portugal, and Greece. But there are many parts of the world that I have yet to see. This year, I will be checking off more bucket list destinations.
I look at my budget as a yearly number. House sits don’t cost me much. However, a little apartment in Oslo is more expensive than one on a Greek island. It all evens out in the end.
The nomad life isn’t for everyone. I’m still figuring it out, and my lifestyle continues to evolve. Sometimes, I feel like I need to do more; then, I remember the high-stress life I was living before I made this change. I haven’t worked in nearly two years, but I don’t know if I’m fully retired. I am open to working remotely, part-time, or seasonally in the future.
So, two years later, am I living a happier, simpler life with a lower stress level? Yes! And the adventures continue.
You probably think I’m a little strange. What do I mean by “stuck?”
Shouldn’t I have been happy to spend time in England’s greatest city?
I’ll back up a little to explain.
My last journey to Europe started on August 29th, and my first stop was England. I spent most of my time in Northeastern England and the Lakes District, which were fantastic. Then, I enjoyed a couple of days in London before heading to my next destination.
At the end of my trip, in mid-December, I had plans to visit York, England, for some Christmas shopping before heading back to the States.
Due to downed powerlines, my train, and many others, were canceled. It would only be a short trip (two nights), so staying in London was my only viable option. Therefore, I felt stuck.
I wasn’t enthusiastic about the idea for a couple of reasons: I’m generally not a big-city person, and London is expensive.
After the initial disappointment of the canceled train, I weighed my options. I remembered that I had a free night with Hilton. One phone call later, I was booked at the Waldorf for the night. Pretty cool!
I also got lucky and was able to cancel the hotel in York without penalty.
Things got better from there.
That evening, I was chatting with a couple at the hotel, and they gave me some ideas for my unexpected stay in London. They helped me locate a reasonably priced hotel for the next two nights and helped me organize an itinerary.
The next day had some magical moments.
I revisited the British Museum and enjoyed the luxury of seeing just the Greek and Roman rooms. It was also much less crowded than it had been in September.
I moved to my new hotel and had the good luck to catch a classic double-decker. There was even an older English gentleman on board who said, “These are the buses of my youth!”
He and I enjoyed delightful conversation until his stop.
I checked in with the concierge at the new hotel and shared my two-day plan with him. He gave his full approval and helped me book a ticket for a show on my final night.
The other highlight of the day was visiting Borough Market. It is one of the most incredible markets I’ve ever visited. I found out later that it is usually closed on Mondays, so I had the pleasure of visiting when it wasn’t crowded. I also picked up some great Christmas gifts and gluten-free goodies!
Lunch at the market was Chaat. Lots of interesting ingredients and gluten-free.
I found dinner on the cheap at a pub round the corner. Yes, it is possible to be on a budget in London. The two meals were around ten pounds each.
On my last day, I toured The Globe Theater and revisited Borough Market and the surrounding shops.
Once again, I found a good, inexpensive lunch by spotting a place called Farmer J. Lots of healthy and gluten-free options!
I then visited Leadenhall Market since it was on my way back to the hotel.
I decided to take an afternoon rest since I had a big night ahead. A little afternoon prosecco (compliments of the hotel) and a nap!
My final night splurge included dinner at Indigo, an all-gluten-free restaurant, and Tina! The dinner and the show were spectacular; I felt good about my bargain-priced last-minute seat, too.
So, in reality, I wasn’t stuck at all. It ended up being a better-than-expected end to my trip. And it wasn’t a big hit on my budget.
One month later, I truly am stuck. The weather has been so cold that one can’t stay outside for long, and I am dog-sitting. There’s nothing like playing chase around the kitchen island!
As 2024 begins, I reflect on my first full year as a nomad.
The biggest question is, “Am I happy with the nomadic lifestyle?”
Yes! Absolutely. As the months pass, I can’t imagine returning to my former profession, teaching.
I never thought I would be so happy to be unemployed. (I still don’t believe I am retired.)
I wake up grateful every day for the sights I see, the people I meet, and a more relaxed lifestyle.
New Experiences in 2023:
House and pet sitting: From May to July, I mostly house-sat and pet-sat. My favorites have been the “one-dog sits.” Cats are easy, but dogs are good company, and at least one daily walk is guaranteed. It’s also a huge budget saver!
European National Parks: I visited Plitvice and Mljet in Croatia and Teide and Garajonay in the Canary Islands. The national parks in Croatia were stunning! Trails were well-marked and easy to navigate. Tiede, Spain’s highest peak, is located on Tenerife in the Canary Islands. I visited on a group tour that included star gazing. It was an unforgettable experience. I also spent a day on La Gomera in the Canaries, which is primarily a National Park. Absolutely gorgeous!
The Greek Islands: I spent about a month in Greece, starting in Athens and moving on to Crete, Karpathos, Rhodes, and Santorini. Each place had its unique character, and I enjoyed all of them. There are over 200 islands to explore in Greece, and I have plans to return this spring.
Reading: Okay, I have known how to read for a long time! I have always struggled with leisurely reading, though. I no longer feel guilty about spending the afternoon with my nose in a good book.
Plans and Changes for 2024:
More weeks of house sitting and pet sitting: I have been pet sitting since the middle of December when I arrived home from an extended trip to Europe. (I was able to schedule the sits around family Christmas celebrations.) And I will spend most of my days on sits through April. Requests have come my way, and I can be picky about pets and locations. I’m currently enjoying a gorgeous view of Puget Sound.
Volunteer Work: I’m researching options for volunteer positions both here in my home state and overseas. I’m hoping to make this part of my lifestyle.
Travel farther from home: I am going “Down Under” for the first time. After spending September in the Hawaiian Islands, I will head to Sydney, Australia, in October. I still need to plan the rest of the trip, including New Zealand.
No big US road trip: The past two years, I took off on extended road trips around the Western US (seven and ten weeks). Although I enjoyed those trips, which included visits with friends and family, I don’t have an open block of time this year. I will make some shorter trips instead.
Cruises: I haven’t been on a cruise ship in several years. I have mixed feelings about cruising, but incredible deals are out there as the cruise lines recover from the pandemic. And most cruise companies are responding to solo travelers with single rooms. It’s definitely worth checking out.
Two years ago, I never imagined that I would be living this lifestyle. I get a kick out of telling people that I am a nomad. Their reactions are almost always positive, and I enjoy answering their questions. Some people can’t believe that I no longer have a physical home. I have adapted and find it easy to make myself “at home” almost anywhere.
I have always enjoyed home renovation shows (I have remodeled one home and partially remodeled another.), and I love to see how people decorate. I now have a routine when I arrive for a sit. I take in the surroundings and appreciate their sense of style and the fact that they are entrusting me with their home and pets.
One of the best things about this lifestyle is that I see more of my adult kids now than I did in previous years. I schedule enough sits in the Seattle area that we get together quite often throughout the year. And Mom isn’t asking for their help with projects around the house. We just enjoy each other’s company.
Here’s to the year ahead! I wish you peace and happiness.
A few days ago, I had to do something I’d rather not do. But sometimes, plans change, especially when you live as a nomad.
I was supposed to fly from Tenerife to Seville on November 26th. I would enjoy an afternoon in one of my favorite Spanish cities before hopping on a midday train the next day to Mérida, a city that has been on my “must-visit” list for a few years.
But then a certain Irish discount airline messed up the works. They canceled my flight to Tenerife and delayed my return flight by one day. I was not too happy about the canceled flight. Rebooking with another airline was a bit pricey, and I had wanted to avoid a long travel day.
First, I had to check out of the resort where I had been staying and move to a place down the street. My resort was nearly booked, and I couldn’t bear to pay that much for one night.
Then, I didn’t sleep well on Sunday night. I rarely sleep well when I have a morning flight. I don’t know if I will ever overcome this.
There I was, wide awake at 3:00 AM when I could have slept until 6:15. And I didn’t get much of a breakfast because the restaurant wasn’t open yet.
At the airport, there was a short line to check my suitcase, so I had two hours to kill. At least the departure area was clean and relatively uncrowded.
The flight took off on time at 9:15 and landed on schedule at 12:35. I even caught a few winks on the plane. Not bad.
My train wasn’t leaving until 5:54, and I was looking forward to some time in Seville. I got an Uber to the train station, where I planned to deposit my suitcase in the luggage storage.
“We don’t have luggage storage here. We used to, but we don’t anymore. People ask for it all the time. There are a couple of private places nearby, though.”
Gee, thanks.
The first place I tried required measurements of my suitcase in centimeters. Then, I needed to download their app and get a special code for the self-service locker.
No chance! I’m not leaving my precious suitcase in a place that isn’t monitored by a human. And how would I know the measurements in centimeters, or even inches, for that matter?
I found another place and walked in that direction. That place must have gone out of business because it wasn’t there.
By this time, I was a bit frustrated, and I’m pretty darn stubborn. I would simply roll my beloved travel companion into downtown to a tapas bar I wanted to check out.
The tapas bar did not disappoint and was absolutely worth the walk. They specialized in gluten-free items, which made my heart sing. And it wasn’t just the typical Spanish tapas. This was gourmet stuff!
I noticed that the couple next to me appeared to be American, and she was gluten-free, too. At one point, we ended up chatting. They were on a two-week trip around Spain, culminating with their friend’s wedding near Madrid. I helped them plan their afternoon and thoroughly enjoyed the conversation.
After lunch, my suitcase and I rolled over to Las Setas. I had never seen this part of the city on my recent trips to Seville. (Las Setas is relatively new, completed in 2011. By the way, Las Setas means mushrooms in Spanish.)
In southern Spanish cities, where it gets unbearably hot much of the year, they find creative ways to make shade. This creation is the coolest (pun intended) I’ve seen yet!
On my stroll back to the train station, I stopped for a hot chocolate. The friendly bartender even gave me a discount. My day was getting better and better.
I noticed that my phone battery was low. So, I returned to the train station with ample time to charge it before getting on the train.
Satisfied with that, I stepped inside the bookstore at the station and noticed several titles in English. I picked up a good read for the three-hour-plus ride ahead. (Sometimes, you just want to feel the pages.)
The train left on time but arrived about a half hour late. It was closing in on 9:00 PM, and I was weary.
The Mérida train station was quiet. I had to call to get a taxi. So glad I speak Spanish.
The ride to my apartment was less than ten minutes. Ah…
But there was one problem: I was hungry! That tapas lunch was a long time ago, and I’m the kind of person who can’t sleep with a growling stomach.
I got online, and it looked like there was a decent grocery store not too far away—it was open until 9:30.
I walked through the dark, empty streets to see that the store had closed early.
Back online, I found another store that would be open until 10:00.
I arrived to find it was also closed.
On the route back to my apartment, I found a little convenience store. It would be popcorn, an avocado, and some turkey lunchmeat for dinner. At least I wouldn’t starve.
I had to believe the apartment had been empty for a few days because it was cold, colder than outside.
I finally got comfortable and fell asleep around 12:30.
I happily slept until 9:30 AM.
The next day, I loaded up on groceries including some of my favorite Spanish items. I would not go hungry for the rest of the week.
I have been traveling in Europe for about two months. Most days, I am somewhere between a state of contentment and awe at what I have seen and done.
I started this trip in northern England, followed by Croatia and Slovenia. I’ve seen countless historic sites and several national parks. I have walked my socks off, or at least worn holes in them.
I have just left Greece after nearly a month there, which brings me to the focus of this post.
I started with a much-too-short stay in Athens. Why did I think I wouldn’t like Athens? I love walking through history, and my visit to Rome several years ago remains one of my favorite destinations.
After Athens, I flew to Crete for a week. I had reserved an apartment at a resort and enjoyed a mix of leisurely resort time as well as some sightseeing. It was a perfect. I was able to see my “bare minimum” sights but also slowed down and even took advantage of the on-site spa.
My limited impressions of Crete in October: Go! It’s a fantastic island with so many things to see and do. I barely scratched the surface, really. I did the typical outings to Spinaloga, a small island fortress, and hiked the Samaria Gorge. I took a day trip to the Palace of Knossos and spent a day in Heraklion.
In case you didn’t know, Crete is huge, the largest of the Greek islands. There is a distinct Cretan culture. The food is delicious, and the people are lively and proud of their heritage. It’s on my definite return list.
From Crete, I got on a ferry for Karpathos. I’m still not sure if I love Greek ferries. (They take a long time.) But I did enjoy meeting some fellow travelers from the US, a family of five taking a year out to travel the world. I love that they are giving their kids an unforgettable experience that may open many doors for them.
Karpathos is a relatively small and less touristy island than many; at least, that’s what my guidebook says. The guidebook also told me to chat with the friendly locals, which I certainly did. They were, indeed, quite pleasant for the most part.
Beyond the cute town of Karpathos, there was little going on. According to the locals, the tourist season ends on October 15th, and I had arrived just after that. The only downside was that the local bus company had decided to stop its runs to the historic town of Olympos on the day I had planned to go. The driver I spoke with was rather abrupt: “There are no more trips to Olympos. That is done.”
Funny, the gentleman at the bus office had just told me the day before that there would be a bus if enough passengers showed up. I guess the other guy changed the plan on him.
Anyway, I had a great time wandering the island, getting a little bit lost, and swimming in the bay every afternoon.
My cute little apartment in town had a view of the sea with a lovely veranda on which I ate breakfast and dinner every day. It was glorious!
In fact, one of the best days of this trip was when I walked from Karpathos Town around the western peninsula. It was a gorgeous sunny day, and I encountered no humans, just goats and many tiny churches.
My impressions of Karpathos in October: Go a little earlier than I did. I regret that I wasn’t able to make it to Olympos. (It would have been more than 100 euros by taxi.) I very much enjoyed the island and the neighboring small towns. It, too, is on my revisit list. Next time, I plan to go in the spring.
A few days later, I got on another ferry, this time bound for Rhodes, one of the larger Greek Islands. On the ferry, I met a recently retired couple, she American and he French. They assured me that there would be a lot going on in Rhodes. They also encouraged me to return to Karpathos in the spring, telling me it was the best time to visit.
They were right about Rhodes. Rhodes town was quite a contrast to Karpathos. First, two large cruise ships were in the port when we arrived. The Old Town area was certainly bustling! I walked to my apartment, taking in the scene, thinking it would be a nice change.
Unfortunately, I didn’t fall in love with Rhodes.
When I visited the Old Town the next day, it felt overly packed with people. I did my thing and toured the Archeological Museum (a definite highlight) and the Grand Master’s Palace. Seeing these sights was just fine; the streets of the old town overwhelmed me, though. It felt like a packed series of shops and restaurants. I just wanted to get out!
The next day, I had a tour booked for the Acropolis of Lindos. It wasn’t actually a tour; it was merely a bus ride. The driver dropped us off at 10:20 and said, “See you back here at 3:20.”
No instructions. No, pointing out where to go. Just see you later.
We had to walk down a rather steep hill and through to the town of Lindos to get up to the Acropolis. It felt a lot like the old town of Rhodes and was rather labyrinth-like. Then there were the people in no physical condition to climb up to the Acropolis. One woman was holding up a rather large group before her husband finally got her off to the side to head back down.
I was happy I had made the trip as the Acropolis and surrounding areas were gorgeous.
But five hours was a long time. I had brought my suit in case I wanted to swim. Glad I did.
As I arrived at the beach, I saw a restaurant with gluten-free items marked on the menu. A shrimp salad sounded so much better than the snacks I had packed.
The salad was indeed tasty, and I had a sea view to go along with it. I decided to splurge and get one of those beach loungers. (I am not one to lie on the beach. Tanning is not my thing.)
I made the most of the afternoon and enjoyed the beautiful, warm water.
That evening, I didn’t feel quite right.
By morning, I was pretty ill with food poisoning. I spent the day in bed, thankful I had extra bottled water.
The next day, I got up and took a slow walk to Rhodes’s Acropolis and ancient stadium. The Acropolis wasn’t nearly as impressive as Lindos, but the stadium was fantastic.
My impressions of Rhodes in October: If you’ve never been, it’s worth a visit. The old town is charming, as is the port area. The beaches in town are rocky and unimpressive. I’m glad I went once, but I wouldn’t return.
Santorini was missing from my original itinerary. Everyone goes to Santorini, and I wanted to see some of the smaller, less popular islands. Early November’s lack of ferry service forced me to adjust my itinerary. So, Santorini, it was!
I have to admit, I loved it! I stayed in a studio apartment in a small family-owned resort on Oia’s “not caldera” side. It was actually between the tiny historic town of Finikia and Oia. Perfect for me, because I like to walk. The stay included a generous breakfast every morning, and the buses throughout the island were running on a full schedule.
When I arrived, my host sat down with me and a map and planned out the next few days for me. What a treat to have good old-fashioned personal service in this era of contactless check-ins. She also encouraged me to go to the local taverna in Finikia for dinner. The food was fantastic, and the atmosphere was exquisite! The food poisoning incident had killed my appetite, and that meal started to bring me back to life.
I spent the first full day wandering Oia and walking down to the harbor. It is that picture postcard place that most of us think of when someone says Greek Islands. That first glimpse of the town made me gasp.
The next day, I got on the bus and headed to the archeological site in Akrotiri. This Minoan site was buried in ash from the 1316 BC eruption. (Somewhat like Pompeii, but not quite as impressive.)
Afterward, I took a short hike to the red-sand beach. (The tourist boats had stopped running the day before!)
As I walked back toward the bus stop, a waiter/cook lured me into his restaurant for lunch, where I saw the chicken cooking on the spit. He gave me a sample, and I was sold!
The next day, I took the bus to the mountaintop town of Pyrgos. It’s relatively small but worth an hour or so. I walked the narrow winding streets and stairs up to the church, with an adjacent café. It was a rather windy, chilly day, and they had Italian hot chocolate on the menu. I was in heaven!
After catching the bus back to Fira, I walked the trail from Fira to Oia.
My feet were tired, but the adventure was worth it! I highly recommend the hike.
The final day in Santorini was leisurely. I walked around Oia, ate a salad that didn’t make me sick, napped by the pool, and played with the resident kittens.
My impressions of Santorini in October-November: Go! It’s gorgeous, and there is still quite a bit going on. Some restaurants and activities shut down on October 31, so be ready for that.
This is what got me started today. It’s called Poseidon’s Temple, and it’s about a 25-minute walk from where I’m staying in Pigadia, Karpathos, Greece.
It was Sunday morning, and I was due for a good walk. I was still feeling the pain of my hike in Samaria Gorge on Crete last Thursday; I thought a good walk might ease the pain and stretch me out a bit.
Apparently, Poseidon’s Temple is an ancient burial site. There are two caves behind the gate, and one certainly looks like a burial chamber. There were no signs, and I stumbled upon it accidentally when I was studying Google Maps. Perhaps I will learn more when I visit the archeological museum tomorrow.
I was in the mood for a longer wander. So, I continued down the road. I thought I might go visit one of the beaches on the other side of the island. My swimsuit and towel were in my backpack just in case.
Then, around the corner, I saw this:
The village of Menetes up on the hill (mountain?). I was feeling pretty energetic, the weather was perfect, and it was only a little after 9:00 AM. I could swim back in Pigadia this afternoon.
Then I was reassured a few minutes later when I saw this sign:
I was on a designated walking route. All good.
And there was the carrot on the stick; that cute village kept getting closer and closer.
As I ascended, I could see the bay by Pigadia as well as the other side of the island.
I also snagged a ripe fig from a tree. Delicious!
The views were better and better as I approached the war memorial outside of Menetes.
View of Pigadia
There was also a small chapel (They are everywhere in Greece!) just a hundred feet from the memorial, and the door was open. I stepped in. It was cool and peaceful inside. I was thankful for the resting spot.
The cemetery between the war memorial and town:
As I walked into town, there was a little stand with local goods. I had been seeing similar stands all over Croatia and Slovenia earlier in the trip. Three people were sitting around the table. (I took the photo later.)
The owner struck up a conversation with me.
“We saw you walking up. Where are you from?”
“The United States.”
“But where?”
“Seattle.”
“Oh, Seattle, Washington. I lived in the U.S. in 1977, in Washington DC, the other Washington. Today is the last day. I will give you a good deal.”
He really wanted to sell me some wine or olive oil, but I need to think about volume and bulk. Instead, I bought some dried figs, a lime, a small jar of olives, and some mixed herbs. I would consume all but the herbs before continuing to my next destination.
We continued to chat, and he offered me some fresh grapes.
“They aren’t so good. You know, they are the last of the Mohicans.”
I thought they were pretty tasty.
He advised me to make the chapel up above town my final destination and sent me on my way.
Most of the homes can be reached only by stairs. The townspeople must all have great legs!
View of the town from the big church:
After more and more stairs, I arrived at the chapel above the town. It was also open!
And, of course, the best views of the day at about 1650 feet! This is a view of the south end of Karpathos.
It was nice to be seemingly the only tourist in town today. The walk up was peaceful, and the gentleman at the stand was the first person I had encountered besides a couple of workers on the side of the road.
The funniest things happened later on the way back, though.
As I was walking back on the main road, a taxi started honking at me. He pulled up and asked if I needed a ride.
“No thanks. I’m walking.”
“I’ll give you a ride for free!”
Okay, that was a little creepy.
Then, a few minutes later, two men driving a car with a rental company logo slowed down and asked if I needed a ride. They laughed when I told them, “No Thanks. I’m walking.”
About twenty minutes later, another taxi slowed down and asked if I needed a ride. At least he didn’t seem to mind when I refused.
I wonder if some tourists get hot and tuckered out, so they are used to picking up people on the way down. It was over nine miles round trip, after all.
I arrived back at my apartment just after 1:00 PM and enjoyed a hearty lunch on the balcony, satisfied with the day’s wandering.
October 9, 2023 Sometimes, I can’t believe how many beautiful places I see in a short time while traveling.
Yesterday, I once again visited an incredibly beautiful place, Vintgar Gorge, near Lake Bled, Slovenia. Slovenia is entirely new to me. This is my first visit. I took a nice long stretch of six days to hang out in Ljubljana, the capital. As capital cities go, it is on the small side and has a chill vibe. The Ljubljanica River that runs through the city was carefully planned to be pedestrian friendly. There are oodles of bars, restaurants, and sitting spots to people-watch.
I visited a museum a day, all fantastic, and enjoyed walks up by the castle and through Tivoli Park.
The “Open Kitchen” food festival lasts from 10:00 AM to 9:00 PM on Fridays, spring through autumn.
Not to mention, there’s the daily market square filled with fresh produce and flowers.
Two days ago, I arrived in Lake Bled. Wow! It is the quintessential European mountain fantasy town with a castle high on a rock cliff and an island in the lake with a church. It has a touristy vibe but doesn’t feel as overrun as Windermere in England’s Lakes District.
Yesterday, I took a shuttle out to nearby Vintgar Gorge. My expectations were low since I had recently visited Plitvice Lakes National Park in Croatia. It was another of those better-than-expected experiences. I think the fact that we are now in October helped, too. The trail along the gorge wasn’t especially crowded, even though it was a Sunday. The fall colors also enhanced the crystal-clear waters. Enjoy the photos and be sure to add Lake Bled and Vintgar Gorge to your Slovenian itinerary!
September 24, 2023 I love to walk and hike. I’d say it is my primary form of recreation and transportation, especially while traveling. I try to keep my daily limit to ten miles. You know, moderation and all. I don’t want to be too wiped out to enjoy the next day’s wanderings. My friend Nancy likes to take it up a notch, though. She took up trail running in her fifties. Let’s say she’s my only friend my age who can kick my butt on a hiking trail. (Don’t be fooled by the sweet smile in the photo.)
We had two full days to explore Miljet National Park in Croatia. So, we decided to take a long hike the first day and take it easy the second.
The nice part about traveling with my friends Kirk and Nancy is that I don’t have to plan much at all. They are avid map readers, and Nancy loves to set up the day’s itinerary.
Besides covering much of the park, the hike also included an ascent to a viewing tower. The views of the island were stunning!
The side trip to the neighboring town of Polace for groceries added a couple of kilometers, too. But we got to see the ruins of a Roman place, too.
That’s how we ended up hiking 20K in a day, or 2.42 miles over my usual limit.
Don’t get me wrong; I’m just being cheeky. It was one of the most memorable days of our trip to Croatia. My feet survived, and I was only a little sore the next day.
We arrived in Split, Croatia, yesterday afternoon.
After settling in our apartment, we took a ten-minute walk to the old town. As old towns go, it’s a good one. In fact, most of the old town is the site of Diocletian’s Palace.
This morning, we were ready for something different, though. We would have two more full days in Split. Why not go see something a little off the beaten path?
The priority was the Green Market, or farmers’ market. I had been hankering for some quality produce, and the tiny grocery stores on the Croatian islands we just visited lacked selection and freshness.
Visiting the markets is one of my favorite things to do in Europe. I love seeing the local produce and agricultural products. In addition to fruits and vegetables, we picked up some honey, dried fruit, sausage, and olive oil.
Speaking of olive oil…my friend Nancy and I had wanted to learn more about olive oil production. We had been looking for a tour but weren’t finding anything.
Then I found the Olive Museum in an online search. It’s located just a few miles outside Split, in Stella Croatica Experience Center. That sounded like something we needed to explore!
After a bus ride 30 minutes or so out of town, we arrived. Stella Croatica was a combination of gardens, a restaurant, a factory, a museum, and a gift shop.
It was one of those better-than-expected experiences. The whole premise of the place was to promote local agriculture. The first part of the tour was a walk through the factory where they make candied oranges, lemons, and fig cakes. This included some samples.
We were then advised to go up to the village and tavern where we could have a drink and bite to eat before the rest of the tour. I’m still not sure if the village was all or part re-creation, but it was charming and inviting. We sampled local wine, cake, and ice cream. Yum!
The tour took us past an old olive press and into the Olive Museum, where we learned some history and statistics regarding Croatian olive oil production.
The tour ended at the delightful gift shop where I could have bought one of everything. But fortunately, I’m a nomad, which makes it easy to pass.
Afterward, we wandered around the gardens until closing time.
Then we walked over to Klis Fortress, which was more extensive and interesting than expected.
Perched high on a rocky plateau, it has been a strategic location since about 3600 BC. The buildings and gates were in various phases of repair and renovation, which made for some fun exploration.
One of the most intriguing buildings was the round Church of Saint Vitus. Not to be missed!
The fortress offered stunning views of Split and the surrounding areas. It could be a fabulous spot to watch the sunset.
Be sure to add both locations to your Split itinerary!
Wandering Shannon 