My Biggest Dilemma (Which Eventually Resolved Itself)

October 11, 2022

I’m truly enjoying my time in Valencia despite my aching feet. Since visiting with the Spanish family last weekend, I have probably been thinking too much about where I want to live when I return next year. In fact, I’m a bit obsessed. I keep researching smaller towns in eastern Spain. Then I look at the real estate sites. But do I really want to live in a small town? Won’t I get bored? Would I have social life? Is there a city that is big enough but not too big? If I were closer to the mountains, I could ski…

Then I worry about Valencia being too noisy for me. In some ways, I like the noise. I never feel entirely alone. Other neighborhoods would be quieter, though. I like the botanical garden. What if I could get an apartment that backs on the garden? That would be sweet!

My friends talked about the possibility of finding an area that was accessible by metro on the outskirts of the city. But again, I don’t want to live in the suburbs, and when people visit, they want to see the city.

Now, do you understand what I’ve been going through? I know. It has to be where I want to live. Don’t choose your home based on potential visitors.

How many Airbnb’s have a bookcase like this?

I fell in love with this apartment the moment I walked in. It has super-high ceilings, over ten feet, more like twelve. The desk sits in front of the “wall of windows.” I love the natural daylight, but I have the privacy of frosted and colored glass. Throughout the apartment, the walls are bright white with sparse décor. It’s clean and happy without being cluttered. The preserved original tile mosaic floors are charming, as are many other details in this turn-of-the-century home. I couldn’t imagine a better place to write. And the built-in bookcase has some interesting reading material. It would be great if the owner were willing to lease it to me at a lower rate for a longer term.

Sometimes the Universe, God, or our higher power hears us. Yesterday, I received a message from my host:

Hi Shannon.

Hope you are well, I wanted to ask you because I thought I understood that you wanted to stay longer in Valencia (maybe you were thinking of staying a year, or am I wrong?).

I mention it because I’m interested in long-term rentals and you might be interested in staying at my house longer.

We then proceeded to message back and forth. Me with questions and he with answers. He’s looking at the numbers and has promised to get back to me with a price and terms. I’ll stop obsessing for a while.

January 24, 2023

By the time my month-long stay in Valencia had ended, I had come to an important realization. I’m not ready to settle in one spot—adventure is what I want now.

When my host got back to me with a number, I had already decided to continue my wandering life. There’s so much more of the world that I want to see. I’ve loved Costa Rica for decades, but somehow, I have never visited. Machu Pichu, the Galapagos…the list goes on.

Best Paella Ever

October 9, 2022

I have to confess that I’m not a huge paella fan. I love a Spanish tortilla, some olives, flan, and jamón, but I’m not a big rice fan. It just feels like filler. In fact, the rice dish I had in a restaurant recently was a lot of rice and a little meat and vegetables. I prefer to fill up on healthier things.
Today, my high school friend, who is in Valencia for a week, invited me to join her and her husband on a visit to her “Spanish family.” I felt honored to tag along to meet her Spanish mom and brother and his family. They had just bought a house outside the city, and it even had a pool in the backyard! And her brother’s wife was making paella for us.
The house was beautiful; I could see how proud they were of their new place. They had enjoyed spending time there this summer, and the two teenage girls loved the pool and the ample space of the house.
She had some of the ingredients out for the paella: artichokes and giant beans. Already, it promised to be a different kind of paella.
After some social time and appetizers, she got out the gas burner and paella pan. The pan was almost two feet wide. She considered using a bigger one but decided this would be big enough for eight people.

Lots of olive oil, chicken pieces, and green beans… Then add the artichoke hearts.

Spanish paprika and tomato sauce (She uses turmeric instead of saffron.)

Add rice (I missed that picture!) and sauté. Then add chicken broth and simmer.

In the end, there was plenty for all. Everyone had seconds or thirds, including me.
As you can see from the photos, it was delicious! It may have tasted better combined with good company.

She Needed a Shower

October 6, 2022

Yesterday there was rain in the forecast. The skies were cloudy, and a few drops fell here and there. I enjoyed a three-hour Spanish lunch with an old friend from high school and three of her Spanish friends. The most expressive of the group kept joking about the threat of rain, saying things like, “I think four drops just fell.”

Murals in the neighborhood where we had lunch (near the port)

Throughout the afternoon, it was like that, a little spit from the sky here and there.

After I arrived home, I decided an early evening walk was needed to work off the three-course lunch. The spit turned into a steady sprinkle, and once I sat down for a light dinner of soup and salad, it was legitimately raining.

Making the most of the fresh produce from Ruzafa Market

It rained steadily through the night, and I woke up to that familiar pitter-patter of perfect rainfall this morning—not an out-and-out downpour, but pleasant, steady drops that require a rain jacket or umbrella.

Valencia needed a shower in the worst way. Just yesterday, my friend commented that the streets seemed dirtier than she remembered. She was concerned that her favorite Spanish city was going downhill.

At lunch, her Spanish friends told us about the rising electricity cost and water scarcity. I imagine people aren’t going out and washing down the sidewalks in front of their businesses as Spanish usually do. Also, dog ownership grew dramatically during the pandemic. Even though most people clean up after their pets, there is residue of poop and pee. It all made sense now.

The rain is supposed to taper off by 9:00 or so. After I finish this second cup of tea, it looks like a good day for the archaeological museum.

Valencia’s Archeological Musem is not to be missed. You’ll want to see what is under the water feature!

Thinking About Space

October 5, 2022

Do you ever think about space and what it means to you? No, I’m not talking about the stars, planets, universe kind of space—these days, I’m thinking about the spaces we occupy.

Why?

I sold my home a few months ago and have been traveling or staying with friends and family ever since. I’ve occupied various hotel rooms, condos, and bedrooms at friends’ houses. This is all by choice, mind you. Don’t get worried that this poor woman is desperate and homeless. I’m taking some time out, a self-imposed sabbatical, to see what’s next.

In Lisbon, Portugal, I recently stayed in a studio apartment that was smaller than most hotel rooms. There was just enough space to walk around the double bed; I’m sure it was less than eight feet wide. The kitchenette was on the wall opposite the bed, with a skinny bar-style table for two and a small desk in between. I’m not really complaining, though. It did have two big windows, which at least made it tolerable. It was also equipped with a safe in the entryway, a foot-long bar with six hangers, and an iron and ironing board, a rarity in European hotel rooms. Someone had put a lot of thought into making that tiny space efficient. And really, you’re in Lisbon. Get out and see the sights instead of hanging out in your room!

But I needed to take some breaks to rest, and I could barely stand in the room. It just wasn’t enough space. In contrast, I stayed in a studio in Porto, Portugal, that was at least double, possibly triple, the size. It was equipped with a Juliette balcony plus two large windows. The ceilings were at least ten feet high, and I loved it! The kitchenette was well-equipped, and I did quite a bit of cooking, saving the expense of eating out. (I’m also a health nut with Celiac Disease.)

Two days ago, I arrived in Valencia, Spain. This is the longest stay of my 90-day European adventure. I’ll be here for four weeks. I got lucky on Airbnb and found a super-cool apartment in a desirable area—Ruzafa. The host is particular about his renters. There is a minimum twenty-day stay with a maximum of two people occupying the apartment. It’s a rather large two-bedroom apartment, at least 1000 square feet. I think he initially rented to bigger groups and had some negative experiences.

The online pictures looked enticing, and all the reviews were five-star. That made me hopeful. I liked that the owner was picky; that meant he cared about the property. He had worked to preserve the original character of the apartment, which I appreciate. Of course, he doesn’t want someone trashing it.

From the man bedroom, access the balcony through this window.

When I arrived, I was pleasantly surprised. It was even better than the photos had indicated. The owner should have shared charming features like the small atrium with plants on the wall. Each room has natural light. The primary bedroom has bay windows, and the smaller bedroom has a balcony attached, which can also be accessed through a tall skinny window in the master. The kitchen has been updated with new appliances and a sizeable refrigerator.

But the best part is the great room space. At least one wall was removed to create an open space. It has floor-to-ceiling windows, some with colored glass, about 12 by 12 feet. You read correctly, 12-foot ceilings! I’m sitting here typing at the midcentury desk, surrounded by plants, facing the wall of windows. The great room space is about 20 by 20 feet in its entirety. One corner provides the perfect space for my temporary yoga studio. The original tile mosaic floors in the dining area and those in the bedrooms and entryway have been preserved. I genuinely feel privileged to occupy this space for a few weeks.

For some people, space is insignificant. For others, it is everything. My twenty-something sons don’t care much about space. When my older son got his first job out of college, he moved across the country and lived in a one-bedroom apartment with no art on the walls that was furnished with a bed, a chair, and a TV. That’s it. The rest wasn’t necessary for him. He knew he’d only be there for two years, so he wanted to avoid investing further.

When I was younger, space wasn’t that important to me either. After studying in Spain for a semester, a friend and I traveled through Europe for six weeks with backpacks and Eurail passes. We stayed in some dumpy rooms with terrible beds and sometimes shared bathrooms. I’d never survive that now.

Since divorcing nine years ago, I have lived in several places (even before selling my most recent home). I now understand that I was searching for the right space. I lived in a two-story townhome-style condo for four years, which was tolerable. The downstairs had nine-foot ceilings and oversized windows with views of evergreen trees. Not bad. The main bedroom upstairs was large, but the ensuite bathroom was small. I renovated the bathroom, which made it more my space. Besides that, I haven’t lived in a place for over two years. It’s been a restless stretch.

Sitting here now, I know what I need to be happy: natural light, ample space to move around, a well-equipped kitchen, and inviting spaces to read, write, and practice yoga. I don’t care how small the bedroom and bath might be. I don’t live in those spaces. It’s all about the space I occupy in my waking hours.

Trying Out Valencia

October 5, 2022

It’s nice to finally be here. After a month of traveling from place to place, I get a break from the daily pressure to see things or to move on to the following location.

I arrived two days ago around 5:45 PM. Disembarking from the plane was slow, but my suitcase was already waiting for me at baggage claim. The Valencia airport is modern and small, and I found the taxi stand easily.

My taxi driver, the first female driver I’ve ever encountered in Spain, was a real character. At first, she didn’t say much. Then she asked if I spoke Spanish. Once I responded, the floodgates opened! She was a talker. She told me about Spain, where to visit, and who spoke the best Spanish in the world. (In Spain, it was the people of Valladolid.) She also held the Basques in high regard. She described them as more rigid than other Spaniards with a stronger work ethic.

By the time we got through traffic, it was almost 7:00. My host was in the apartment awaiting my arrival. He, too, was excited and a bit relieved when I told him I spoke Spanish. He responded that it made explaining everything a lot easier for him. He’s clearly a meticulous fellow and takes pride in the apartment. The vintage apartment has mosaic floors in the bedrooms, entryway, and dining area. The windows are original, including the not-so-easy-to-operate wooden blinds. He’s taken steps to preserve the original beauty as much as possible.

Light and bright! The perfect place to write.

As soon as he left, I walked to the conveniently located Consum grocery store just around the corner. I find Spanish city grocery stores fascinating. From the outside, they often appear small, but when you walk in, most of them are amazingly huge! They go back deeply into the city block. Occasionally, you will walk into one that is two stories. My host had recommended this one because the prices were reasonable, and it is so close.

I grabbed as much as I thought I could carry (It was plenty.) and headed back to make a simple dinner of thin beef steaks, fried potatoes, and green beans. I also bought a tiny bottle of wine. I looked up the conversion, and it was 6.25 ounces, a glass for one. Not bad for 1.29 euros!

I slept well, as I usually do on travel days. Lugging that heavy suitcase around tends to wear me out. And the bed is comfortable. Yes! What would be worse than being stuck with an uncomfortable mattress for four weeks?

I woke up Tuesday morning refreshed but in no hurry. After breakfast, I walked to the Ruzafa Market. It’s not the prettiest Spanish market, but they had everything I could want. I walked the aisles, taking it all in, and decided to go with a mother-son team. Their prices looked good, and they weren’t talking on and on like some of the other vendors were. I know; it’s part of their social life, so I can’t complain. I also bought some olives, walnuts, and a treat made from sesame seeds.

…but they have everything you could want.

Back at the apartment, I did my laundry and made a big pot of chicken-vegetable soup. It was nice to cook again after staying in hotels for eight days. That had really started to get to me in Seville. I felt a bit trapped there!
I read a bit in the afternoon, relaxed on the sofa, and fell asleep. The rest was needed.

By 4:30, I regained energy and walked through the neighborhood and the Turia. I spotted a large health food store called Herbolario Navarros. What a find! They had more gluten-free items in one place than I had ever seen! They even had my brand of magnesium supplements, which I needed to refill.

Back at the apartment, I got on the computer and chatted with friends on Facebook. I’m looking forward to seeing my high-school friends, who will arrive in a couple of days. She lived in Valencia with her first husband and knows the city well.

I received a lengthy message from my host with suggestions and links to places to visit. He listed some of the more popular ones I have already seen, like the Cathedral, botanical garden, and Ceramics Museum, but there were many other places I had yet to see or would not have known about. So glad I have time to see them all!

I searched to see if any concerts were coming up at the Palau de las artes. Amazingly, there was a free concert the following evening. There were only about 20 seats left in the back, but one can’t complain about free!
Looking forward to that tonight.

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