A Very Long Travel Day

November 30, 2023

A few days ago, I had to do something I’d rather not do. But sometimes, plans change, especially when you live as a nomad.

I was supposed to fly from Tenerife to Seville on November 26th. I would enjoy an afternoon in one of my favorite Spanish cities before hopping on a midday train the next day to Mérida, a city that has been on my “must-visit” list for a few years.

But then a certain Irish discount airline messed up the works. They canceled my flight to Tenerife and delayed my return flight by one day. I was not too happy about the canceled flight. Rebooking with another airline was a bit pricey, and I had wanted to avoid a long travel day.

First, I had to check out of the resort where I had been staying and move to a place down the street. My resort was nearly booked, and I couldn’t bear to pay that much for one night.

Then, I didn’t sleep well on Sunday night. I rarely sleep well when I have a morning flight. I don’t know if I will ever overcome this.

There I was, wide awake at 3:00 AM when I could have slept until 6:15. And I didn’t get much of a breakfast because the restaurant wasn’t open yet.

At the airport, there was a short line to check my suitcase, so I had two hours to kill. At least the departure area was clean and relatively uncrowded.

The flight took off on time at 9:15 and landed on schedule at 12:35. I even caught a few winks on the plane. Not bad.

My train wasn’t leaving until 5:54, and I was looking forward to some time in Seville. I got an Uber to the train station, where I planned to deposit my suitcase in the luggage storage.

“We don’t have luggage storage here. We used to, but we don’t anymore. People ask for it all the time. There are a couple of private places nearby, though.”

Gee, thanks.

The first place I tried required measurements of my suitcase in centimeters. Then, I needed to download their app and get a special code for the self-service locker.

No chance! I’m not leaving my precious suitcase in a place that isn’t monitored by a human. And how would I know the measurements in centimeters, or even inches, for that matter?

I found another place and walked in that direction. That place must have gone out of business because it wasn’t there.

By this time, I was a bit frustrated, and I’m pretty darn stubborn. I would simply roll my beloved travel companion into downtown to a tapas bar I wanted to check out.

The tapas bar did not disappoint and was absolutely worth the walk. They specialized in gluten-free items, which made my heart sing. And it wasn’t just the typical Spanish tapas. This was gourmet stuff!

I noticed that the couple next to me appeared to be American, and she was gluten-free, too. At one point, we ended up chatting. They were on a two-week trip around Spain, culminating with their friend’s wedding near Madrid. I helped them plan their afternoon and thoroughly enjoyed the conversation.

After lunch, my suitcase and I rolled over to Las Setas. I had never seen this part of the city on my recent trips to Seville. (Las Setas is relatively new, completed in 2011. By the way, Las Setas means mushrooms in Spanish.)

In southern Spanish cities, where it gets unbearably hot much of the year, they find creative ways to make shade. This creation is the coolest (pun intended) I’ve seen yet!

On my stroll back to the train station, I stopped for a hot chocolate. The friendly bartender even gave me a discount. My day was getting better and better.

I noticed that my phone battery was low. So, I returned to the train station with ample time to charge it before getting on the train.

Satisfied with that, I stepped inside the bookstore at the station and noticed several titles in English. I picked up a good read for the three-hour-plus ride ahead. (Sometimes, you just want to feel the pages.)

The train left on time but arrived about a half hour late. It was closing in on 9:00 PM, and I was weary.

The Mérida train station was quiet. I had to call to get a taxi. So glad I speak Spanish.

The ride to my apartment was less than ten minutes. Ah…

But there was one problem: I was hungry! That tapas lunch was a long time ago, and I’m the kind of person who can’t sleep with a growling stomach.

I got online, and it looked like there was a decent grocery store not too far away—it was open until 9:30.

I walked through the dark, empty streets to see that the store had closed early.

Back online, I found another store that would be open until 10:00.

I arrived to find it was also closed.

On the route back to my apartment, I found a little convenience store. It would be popcorn, an avocado, and some turkey lunchmeat for dinner. At least I wouldn’t starve.

I had to believe the apartment had been empty for a few days because it was cold, colder than outside.

I finally got comfortable and fell asleep around 12:30.

I happily slept until 9:30 AM.

The next day, I loaded up on groceries including some of my favorite Spanish items. I would not go hungry for the rest of the week.

There Are No Busses on Sundays

September 24, 2023
Sometimes, the best days happen when things don’t go according to plan.
I have been traveling in Croatia with old friends, a married couple, for the past nine days. We are a compatible trio, all three active, outdoorsy types. In fact, it was during a cross-country ski and snowshoe trip last winter that we decided to plan an adventure together.
I was ecstatic when Nancy offered to help with the planning because, in my nomad life, I am constantly working on my itinerary.
We met up at the Dubrovnik airport just over a week ago, and the trip has gone exceptionally well until…

Yesterday afternoon, before we left Mljet Island, the rain came in with a vengeance. We had been enduring some feisty winds, but rain can really put a damper on the fun.
After trying to remain dry, we boarded the ferry for a 30-minute ride to Korcula. Our host generously offered to pick us up, and the rain had momentarily stopped when we arrived.
Then the thunder and lightning returned yesterday evening. So much for our plans to paddle board tomorrow.
Our power went out around 3:00 AM and didn’t come on until about 10:00 AM.
Our host felt terrible about the weather and the power outage. This morning, he brought us some candy and a bottle of wine as a consolation. (As if he could control the weather.) He also realized that a close lightning strike had blown out our modem and had a new one ready for us when we returned this evening. Such a nice man!

After a brief break early this morning, the thunder, lightning, and rain continued until about 11:00 AM.

Then the skies started to look hopeful.

We did have a couple of other issues, though.
Last night, we discovered that no public buses were running on Sundays.
Today, no Uber drivers responded to our request.
No problem. We are walkers. We could easily cover the three miles into town.

The weather was much more promising by noon, and we walked out the door.
Along the way, we stopped to inspect local plant life, saw a monument to World War I soldiers from the island, and visited a Marian shrine.

We ended up having a fabulous time exploring the old city of Korcula. It is a picture-perfect medieval town located on the beautiful Adriatic waters. The rain had cleared the air, making for an exceptional day.
After searching for the right restaurant to cater to my gluten-free diet, we enjoyed a scrumptious lunch by the old city gate. I had eggs benedict for the first time in many years, and we all enjoyed chocolate mousse cake with pistachios for dessert.

After lunch, we wandered through town and climbed the church tower for the best views of the day.

Then we walked along the waterfront, checking out the different buildings, sections of the old city walls, and the luxurious modern yachts in the harbor.

After stopping for groceries, we took the backroads home and saw things most tourists miss.

The 101 stone steps up to the Votive Chapel of Saint Anthony.

The cypress trees were planted in 1708 after the chapel was renovated (originally built in the 15th century).
The last leg of the journey back to our apartment took us through rural areas bound by stone walls with abundant olive trees.

What looked like a potential disaster of a day ended up being one of my best travel days yet!

Getting There, Exhaustion, and the Kindness of Strangers

August 30, 2023

I arrived in Durham, England, last night after a grueling day of travel from Seattle.
But first, let’s get something straight—my travel went remarkably smoothly, especially given my international flight history. My son says I’m about 50-50 for getting an on-time, smooth flight out of Seattle.
About a year ago, my flight to Spain was delayed 24 hours. A couple of other times, my luggage didn’t arrive with me. And there was that time when my sister and I spent seven hours at SeaTac Airport shopping, drinking wine, and getting pedicures.
On the day of my departure, there had been traffic control issues at Heathrow. I happened to be listening to BBC radio as I was driving around that day. I thought for sure my flight would be delayed for the second year in a row.
Miraculously, we departed on time. The plane was about 70% full, so the flight attendant switched my seat to one with extra legroom and an empty seat next to me. My window seat companion was amiable and slept most of the way. Couldn’t ask for better.
We arrived on time but had to wait for a spot to deplane. We were only minutes late, and I high-tailed it through the security checkpoint to baggage claim. I needed to get to King’s Cross Station on the tube to catch my 6:30 train to Durham. I’m sure I walked at least a mile through Heathrow, but I easily found the subway station and was on my way with time to spare.
When I arrived at King’s Cross at 6:00, I had to wait for the platform announcement. Phew! I had time to spare.
Once I boarded the train, I could relax and enjoy the three-hour journey. I watched the sunset from the window and fought to stay awake while munching on some local junk food.

Durham Train Station was quiet at 9:30 p.m., as no one was there. It was also well after dark.
I called the phone number posted for taxis and received a text back. In their reply, I was informed that a taxi would be available at 11:00 p.m.
As I was texting, a woman appeared. I shared my taxi woes with her, and she asked where I was going.
“I’ll share my Uber with you. The castle is on the way to my house.”
She lives in Durham and didn’t know that one could rent a dorm room in the converted castle during the summer months. She appreciated the information, and I was oh-so-grateful for the ride.
The driver dropped me off at Palace Green. Straight ahead was the beautifully lit Cathedral. But where was the Porters Lodge where I was to check in?

I spotted a young couple on a romantic stroll, and they offered to help. In fact, they said they would stay with me until we found it. I felt fortunate to experience the kindness of strangers in my exhausted state.
It was relatively easy to find, and I successfully checked in.
The porter then showed me where to enter the building and gave me the security code. He said I would need to “go up a few” and I would find my room.
You know how you feel when you are sleep-deprived, and you can’t quite think straight? There’s also a physical ache that comes with that exhaustion.
Well, I had to go up a “few” flights of stairs to get to my room. I left the suitcase at the bottom of the stairs to assess the situation. I’ve checked into a few unclean (and one occupied) rooms, and I didn’t want to lug up that suitcase twice.

I’m happy to report that all was well. Who wouldn’t want to sleep in an ancient castle with modern amenities?
I got to sleep before midnight and woke up around 7:30. Breakfast is served in the Great Hall from 8:00-10:00 and is included in the price of the stay. It’s an all-you-can-imagine-to-eat affair, and the Great Hall, built in the 13th century, has been the social hub of the castle for centuries. I love to walk through historic sites but rarely get to eat or sleep in them.

Looks like this adventure is off to a pretty good start!

The Day of Closed Doors

April 28, 2023

We all have those days when things don’t go to plan. Unfortunately, I am a planner. I like to think I can go with the flow, and sometimes I do. But I like having my travels at least sketched out in advance.

Today, in fact, I altered my original plan. A friend had told me about Canyon De Chelly National Monument. Visiting it would take me on a northward excursion out of the way. Still, I figured I had the time and love seeing those “less popular” National Monuments.

Hubbell Trading Post National Historic Landmark

I left Holbrook, Arizona, this morning and headed northeast. The first stop was the Hubbell Trading Post, a National Historic Landmark. There’s a visitor center, and parts of the old trading post are open for visitors and shopping.

The inside of the trading post preserves its original charm with modern goods.

I love the baskets on the ceiling of the trading post!

Since I’m a nomad, shopping is not really my thing. But I bought a few gifts, so I have to admit the trading post was pretty cool.

I then continued north to Canyon de Chelly National Monument. When I arrived, it was CLOSED because of flooding. The police officer who was blocking the road said I could go up and around to the other entrance adding 90 minutes to my drive. It would be even further in the wrong direction, so I decided against the idea.

I backtracked south (one of the least scenic stretches of this trip) and stopped to top off the tank. When I went inside, the bathrooms were CLOSED, out of order. What was going on?

I eventually made my way to Red Rock State Park near Gallup, New Mexico. It was 2:45 when I reached the park office, but it was—you guessed it—CLOSED. The posted hours were 8:00-4:00, but a little sign said, “Will return at 8:00.” It was also the strangest state park I’ve ever visited. It looked more like a state fairground with rodeo facilities.
Besides Hubbell Trading Post, it had been a day of disappointment. But, as a friend once said, “You can turn a bad day around at any time.”

There were two hiking trails, so I could make something good of the afternoon. I decided to hike Pyramid Rock. A young man came off the trail when I arrived, so I asked him for the report. He assured me it was beautiful and not very far to the top.

It was a short (3.4-mile roundtrip) but highly scenic hike.

Signs along the Pyramid Rock Trail encourage hikers at every quarter mile.

When I arrived at the top of Pyramid Rock, I had the space to myself, every hiker’s delight! The day of closed doors ended with a massive open space and marvelous views, just for me.

One of the views form the top of Pyramid Rock

I’ll see Canyon de Chelly another day.

Sedona to Petrified Forest National Park

April 27, 2023

Travel days are often the best part of my nomadic life. I love hitting the road and exploring new territory, especially if National Parks or National Monuments are on the day’s agenda.

After leaving Sedona, my first stop was Walnut Canyon National Monument. It is just east of Flagstaff, Arizona, off Interstate 40. I almost skipped this one, but I’m glad I didn’t. The Native American (ancestors of the Hopi) cliff dwellings were built somewhere between 1125-1250.

Part of the visit is a walk/hike down to 25 dwellings. Island trail is only a mile long, but it takes you 185 vertical feet down to the dwellings. Take your time if you need to because it is worth it. The trail takes you around the dwellings that are in various stages of restoration.

Heading east across Arizona, my next stop was Meteor Crater. It is the site of a Meteor that struck Earth 50,000 years ago. The Meteor was about 150 feet in size and mainly consisted of iron.

A guided tour is the only way to go to the crater’s edge. The visit is quite informative, starting with a short video. Our guide knew her stuff and packed in a lot of information about the history and geology of the site.

The gift shop is extensive, and the grounds are welcoming. I recommend this stop if you are traveling between Flagstaff and Winslow, Arizona.

I love visiting the “less crowded” National Parks. My final stop was Petrified Forest National Park near Holbrook, Arizona. The amount of petrified wood in the park is astounding! It’s hard to imagine that this desert landscape was once a lush forest, but that was millions of years ago.

You can take in most of the park in a few hours. I started at the south entrance and walked behind the visitor’s center and the Rainbow House Museum. The rolling landscape is loaded with large petrified logs. It’s hard to fathom that they are 200 million years old.
I didn’t have time for the hike to Agate house, but I stopped to take the one-mile walk around Crystal Forest.

I then made stops at Agate Bridge, Blue Mesa, and Newspaper Rock.

I finished at the park’s north end with the monument to Route 66 and the historic Painted Desert Inn. By then, it was getting late, so the Painted Desert Inn was already closed. I walked around the perimeter, peeking in where I could. Sometimes, you can’t see everything, and my stomach was demanding some dinner.

It was a three-for-three day.

Zion to Grand Canyon

April 17, 2023

I’m a National Park Nerd. I’ll admit it. I love the concept, and I love Teddy Roosevelt for making an impact on the National Parks system. They are here for us to enjoy, and I certainly do! I’ve been privileged to visit many of the parks in the western US.

I also like to find those less-famous National Monuments. A friend suggested that I stop at Pipe Spring National Monument on my way from Zion to the Grand Canyon.

Pipe Spring is worth a visit, especially if you like history. It is a Mormon pioneer site with the main building, Winsor Castle, and two cabins intact. There’s even a corral with longhorn cattle, and the spring still feeds the ponds on the site.

Interior of Winsor Castle (not really a castle)

You can also walk a half-mile trail above the buildings for spectacular views. It’s a perfect stretch-your-legs stop.

My next stop was the Glen Canyon Dam. Sorry, I didn’t take the dam tour. I had other things on my agenda. I did walk out on the bridge, though.

I wanted to tour the Lower Antelope Canyon but found the numerous ticket websites daunting. Instead of booking online, I opted to stop at the local tourist office to see if I could get in that afternoon. I was in luck, but I also had time to kill before my 2:45 tour. (I had gained an hour since Arizona does not recognize Daylight Savings Time.)

Riding the golf cart down to the marina at Antelope Point

I decided to drive to Antelope Point on Lake Powell. From the map, I could see that there was a marina and restaurant.
It was an interesting lunch stop, to say the least. We customers were shuttled down to the marina in golf carts. It wasn’t as scenic as I had anticipated, but the food was decent, and it was an experience.

I have mixed feelings about the Lower Antelope Tour. First, the rock formations are incredible. It truly is a sight to see, and if you enjoy taking photos, the results can be genuinely awesome.

What I didn’t enjoy was that it was crowded. Thirty of us left in three groups of ten to “tour” the slot canyon. It was more like a “stand and wait” than a tour. What took 75 minutes could have been a 15-minute tour. I’m not sure if there would be a better solution. They are limiting the number of people on the tours. I guess I prefer to avoid big crowds.

It was 4:15 by the time I got back to my car, and I still had an hour and a half of driving to get to the Grand Canyon. I was exhausted by the time I checked in at Yavapai Lodge. But I was at The Grand Canyon!

First shot of the Grand Canyon as I drove in from the east entrance

Park City to Hurricane

April 14, 2023
The best part of my nomadic life is days like today.
This morning, I checked out of the condo I’ve been staying in for a week and hit the road. There is something so exciting about exploring new territory, and today did not disappoint.
I got started at about 9:30.
My first stop was at Cove Fort, Utah. I found this stop the old-fashioned way by looking at my road atlas. Yes, I have this actual book. It is indispensable for trip planning!

Built in 1867, Cove Fort wasn’t a military installation but a haven for travelers. It was a way station for the Pony Express, had a telegraph office, and offered food and lodging for visitors.

All of the rooms at Cove Fort maintain their original qualities.

The site is beautifully maintained by the Mormon church. Each of the rooms in the fort is decorated to show what life was like there in the mid to late 1800s.
The enthusiastic volunteers are happy to answer questions and share details of the family that operated the fort.
Additionally, the bathrooms are sparkling clean, and the visit is free of charge. I highly recommend this walk through history if traveling south of Salt Lake City.
My next stop was the Parowan Visitors Center. Parowan is a small town off Interstate 15, the gateway to Brian Head and Cedar Breaks National Monument. I was hoping to see Cedar Breaks, but I was pretty sure the road would still be closed due to snow.

I was right. The road was closed, but the stop at the Visitors Center was worth it. This is something I have learned on my trips to Europe. Always stop at the local tourist office. You will almost always gain extra knowledge of the area, usually from pleasant locals.

Inside the vault at the Parowan Visitors Center

The coolest thing about the office was that it was in a former bank, and the vault was intact. I also learned all about the Cedar City vicinity. For example, did you know there is a Shakespeare festival from Late June until Early October? I’d love to return for some autumn hiking and live theater.
I then drove up to check out Brian Head Resort. It was sunny and hovering around 30 degrees—perfect! Oh, if I only had time for some skiing.

Skiers enjoying a perfect spring day at Brian Head

I made another stop at the tourism office in Brian Head. I received even more information, including an extensive trail guide. I need to find a hiking buddy before I return.
The next stop was Kolob Canyons, the northwest corner of Zion National Park. Sadly, the road was only open two miles up, but that may have been a good thing because it was already 4:30.

The only activity choices were to hike along Taylor Creek or walk up the road past the closed gate.
I decided to go on the hike. The woman at the visitor center told me that there would be numerous creek crossings, but I could step on stones to get across.
She was right. There were numerous crossings. By crossing #11, I had had enough. I couldn’t see a way across that wouldn’t result in a soaked boot. So, I turned around and completed the ten crossings a second time. Twenty was plenty!

I walked up the road a bit, but my stomach was screaming for dinner, and I felt I had gotten enough exercise.
I arrived at my cozy Airbnb around 6:30, showered, made dinner, and called it a night.

Looking forward to more exploration tomorrow!

Travel Days and Me Time

April 7, 2023

Yesterday was a travel day with some fun mixed in.
I left my cousin’s place in the morning. Well, we actually went together, each taking our own car. The first stop was a bakery in Hamilton, Montana, that offered several gluten-free items. (River Rising—I highly recommend it if you are in the Bitterroot Valley!)
We then traveled south to Lost Trail Pass and the Chief Joseph Nordic Ski area. The trail grooming ended last weekend, and about two feet of snow fell after. So, there was plenty of snow, but those sweet smooth tracks were lacking. It was a bit of work, but the glorious sunny day made it worth the effort.

We got four challenging miles in, and both felt satisfied with the workout.
Sadly, it was time to say goodbye to my cousin, but we had new memories to share from our visit.
I then took off on my own, heading south as she headed north to go home.
My favorite part of traveling is hitting a new road for the first time. The drive south along Highway 93 was snowy and scenic. Then I took a left turn at the town of Salmon to head southeast to Idaho Falls.
Chunks of snow lay along the sides of the Salmon River as the spring thaw was in full force. Looking back this morning, I wish I had stopped for more pictures. It was a long day of travel, and I had one more pass to conquer.

The road was mostly clear and dry until I reached a section where the wind picked up, and the snow was blowing across the highway. In the distance, the soft snow-covered peaks continued as I drove.
I finally arrived in Idaho Falls around 5:00 PM. I was starving and more than ready for a shower.
I splurged and ordered an Uber Eats delivery which ended in disaster. My enchiladas arrived wrapped in flour tortillas, and the rice and beans were lacking. The kind young man at the front desk had received the order for me, so I was not able to check the order myself.
This starving gluten-free girl had to find somewhere else to eat.
I got online and found another Mexican place about a mile away. Don Alberto served up massive quantities at reasonable prices. I had enough left over for lunch today.

Don Alberto in Idaho Falls. The two carnitas tacos were enough for dinner!

All’s well that ends well. I caught up with a good friend and enjoyed a little reading and TV time. (Silly as it may seem, I am a nomad who loves HGTV.)
Last night was my first alone in a hotel since leaving “home” almost two weeks ago. Don’t get me wrong—I love visiting friends and family—but it is nice to have my own space.
Now I will be on my own for about three weeks, and I will be trying out some more extended stays. Travel is my life, so I plan to slow down a bit.
I will arrive in Park City, Utah, for a week-long stay tonight. I hope to catch the last of the spring snow and get out for more cross-country skiing. I’m also due for some pampering time—a pedicure and a haircut are in order. Maybe a massage.
Here’s to some Me Time!

Early Spring in Montana’s Flathead Valley

April 3, 2023

Last week, I headed east across Washington State, visiting friends along the way. The great spring road trip has begun!
A few days ago, I arrived in Montana’s Flathead Valley, one of my favorite places in the country. I first passed through in the 1990s. Flathead Lake captivated me then and still does today.

I had to pull over to take it in as I approached the lake. It literally brings tears to my eyes every time I return. This time, the frozen shores of early spring added a dimension to its beauty.

Frozen shores of Flathead Lake in Somers, Montana

The past few days have been filled with outdoor activities as I captured the end of the long, snowy season here.
No matter the time of year, I’m always happy to return to visit friends and enjoy the area’s natural beauty.