Thinking About Space

October 5, 2022

Do you ever think about space and what it means to you? No, I’m not talking about the stars, planets, universe kind of space—these days, I’m thinking about the spaces we occupy.


Why?


I sold my home a few months ago and have been traveling or staying with friends and family ever since. I’ve occupied various hotel rooms, condos, and bedrooms at friends’ houses. This is all by choice, mind you. Don’t get worried that this poor woman is desperate and homeless. I’m taking some time out, a self-imposed sabbatical, to see what’s next.


In Lisbon, Portugal, I recently stayed in a studio apartment that was smaller than most hotel rooms. There was just enough space to walk around the double bed; I’m sure it was less than eight feet wide. The kitchenette was on the wall opposite the bed, with a skinny bar-style table for two and a small desk in between. I’m not really complaining, though. It did have two big windows, which at least made it tolerable. It was also equipped with a safe in the entryway, a foot-long bar with six hangers, and an iron and ironing board, a rarity in European hotel rooms. Someone had put a lot of thought into making that tiny space efficient. And really, you’re in Lisbon. Get out and see the sights instead of hanging out in your room!

Tiny Lisbon Apartment


But I needed to take some breaks to rest, and I could barely stand in the room. It just wasn’t enough space. In contrast, I stayed in a studio in Porto, Portugal, that was at least double, possibly triple, the size. It was equipped with a Juliette balcony plus two large windows. The ceilings were at least ten feet high, and I loved it! The kitchenette was well-equipped, and I did quite a bit of cooking, saving the expense of eating out. (I’m also a health nut with Celiac Disease.)

Spacious, light-filled Porto Apartment


Two days ago, I arrived in Valencia, Spain. This is the longest stay of my 90-day European adventure. I’ll be here for four weeks. I got lucky on Airbnb and found a super-cool apartment in a desirable area—Ruzafa. The host is particular about his renters. There is a minimum twenty-day stay with a maximum of two people occupying the apartment. It’s a rather large two-bedroom apartment, at least 1000 square feet. I think he initially rented to bigger groups and had some negative experiences.

I’m in love with my Valencia apartment!


The online pictures looked enticing, and all the reviews were five-star. That made me hopeful. I liked that the owner was picky; that meant he cared about the property. He had worked to preserve the original character of the apartment, which I appreciate. Of course, he doesn’t want someone trashing it.

From the man bedroom, access the balcony through this window.
View from the balcony


When I arrived, I was pleasantly surprised. It was even better than the photos had indicated. The owner should have shared charming features like the small atrium with plants on the wall. Each room has natural light. The primary bedroom has bay windows, and the smaller bedroom has a balcony attached, which can also be accessed through a tall skinny window in the master. The kitchen has been updated with new appliances and a sizeable refrigerator.

Modern kitchen
Spacious and well-equipped


But the best part is the great room space. At least one wall was removed to create an open space. It has floor-to-ceiling windows, some with colored glass, about 12 by 12 feet. You read correctly, 12-foot ceilings! I’m sitting here typing at the midcentury desk, surrounded by plants, facing the wall of windows. The great room space is about 20 by 20 feet in its entirety. One corner provides the perfect space for my temporary yoga studio. The original tile mosaic floors in the dining area and those in the bedrooms and entryway have been preserved. I genuinely feel privileged to occupy this space for a few weeks.

The perfect place to write


For some people, space is insignificant. For others, it is everything. My twenty-something sons don’t care much about space. When my older son got his first job out of college, he moved across the country and lived in a one-bedroom apartment with no art on the walls that was furnished with a bed, a chair, and a TV. That’s it. The rest wasn’t necessary for him. He knew he’d only be there for two years, so he wanted to avoid investing further.


When I was younger, space wasn’t that important to me either. After studying in Spain for a semester, a friend and I traveled through Europe for six weeks with backpacks and Eurail passes. We stayed in some dumpy rooms with terrible beds and sometimes shared bathrooms. I’d never survive that now.


Since divorcing nine years ago, I have lived in several places (even before selling my most recent home). I now understand that I was searching for the right space. I lived in a two-story townhome-style condo for four years, which was tolerable. The downstairs had nine-foot ceilings and oversized windows with views of evergreen trees. Not bad. The main bedroom upstairs was large, but the ensuite bathroom was small. I renovated the bathroom, which made it more my space. Besides that, I haven’t lived in a place for over two years. It’s been a restless stretch.


Sitting here now, I know what I need to be happy: natural light, ample space to move around, a well-equipped kitchen, and inviting spaces to read, write, and practice yoga. I don’t care how small the bedroom and bath might be. I don’t live in those spaces. It’s all about the space I occupy in my waking hours.

Trying Out Valencia

October 5, 2022

It’s nice to finally be here. After a month of traveling from place to place, I get a break from the daily pressure to see things or to move on to the following location.


I arrived two days ago around 5:45 PM. Disembarking from the plane was slow, but my suitcase was already waiting for me at baggage claim. The Valencia airport is modern and small, and I found the taxi stand easily.


My taxi driver, the first female driver I’ve ever encountered in Spain, was a real character. At first, she didn’t say much. Then she asked if I spoke Spanish. Once I responded, the floodgates opened! She was a talker. She told me about Spain, where to visit, and who spoke the best Spanish in the world. (In Spain, it was the people of Valladolid.) She also held the Basques in high regard. She described them as more rigid than other Spaniards with a stronger work ethic.

My residence for the next four weeks


By the time we got through traffic, it was almost 7:00. My host was in the apartment awaiting my arrival. He, too, was excited and a bit relieved when I told him I spoke Spanish. He responded that it made explaining everything a lot easier for him. He’s clearly a meticulous fellow and takes pride in the apartment. The vintage apartment has mosaic floors in the bedrooms, entryway, and dining area. The windows are original, including the not-so-easy-to-operate wooden blinds. He’s taken steps to preserve the original beauty as much as possible.

Light and bright! The perfect place to write.


As soon as he left, I walked to the conveniently located Consum grocery store just around the corner. I find Spanish city grocery stores fascinating. From the outside, they often appear small, but when you walk in, most of them are amazingly huge! They go back deeply into the city block. Occasionally, you will walk into one that is two stories. My host had recommended this one because the prices were reasonable, and it is so close.


I grabbed as much as I thought I could carry (It was plenty.) and headed back to make a simple dinner of thin beef steaks, fried potatoes, and green beans. I also bought a tiny bottle of wine. I looked up the conversion, and it was 6.25 ounces, a glass for one. Not bad for 1.29 euros!


I slept well, as I usually do on travel days. Lugging that heavy suitcase around tends to wear me out. And the bed is comfortable. Yes! What would be worse than being stuck with an uncomfortable mattress for four weeks?

I woke up Tuesday morning refreshed but in no hurry. After breakfast, I walked to the Ruzafa Market. It’s not the prettiest Spanish market, but they had everything I could want. I walked the aisles, taking it all in, and decided to go with a mother-son team. Their prices looked good, and they weren’t talking on and on like some of the other vendors were. I know; it’s part of their social life, so I can’t complain. I also bought some olives, walnuts, and a treat made from sesame seeds.

Not the prettiest market in Spain…
…but they have everything you could want.


Back at the apartment, I did my laundry and made a big pot of chicken-vegetable soup. It was nice to cook again after staying in hotels for eight days. That had really started to get to me in Seville. I felt a bit trapped there!
I read a bit in the afternoon, relaxed on the sofa, and fell asleep. The rest was needed.


By 4:30, I regained energy and walked through the neighborhood and the Turia. I spotted a large health food store called Herbolario Navarros. What a find! They had more gluten-free items in one place than I had ever seen! They even had my brand of magnesium supplements, which I needed to refill.


Back at the apartment, I got on the computer and chatted with friends on Facebook. I’m looking forward to seeing my high-school friends, who will arrive in a couple of days. She lived in Valencia with her first husband and knows the city well.


I received a lengthy message from my host with suggestions and links to places to visit. He listed some of the more popular ones I have already seen, like the Cathedral, botanical garden, and Ceramics Museum, but there were many other places I had yet to see or would not have known about. So glad I have time to see them all!


I searched to see if any concerts were coming up at the Palau de las artes. Amazingly, there was a free concert the following evening. There were only about 20 seats left in the back, but one can’t complain about free!
Looking forward to that tonight.

Palau de las artes, Valencia
My free nosebleed seats were fantastic indeed!

Coimbra, Portugal: Gluten-Free Gastronomic Delights!

September 16, 2022

One of the great things about travel is the unexpected surprises. I have traveled throughout Spain several times, but for some reason, I never spent time in Portugal. I guess it’s just that magical attraction of Spain that kept me coming back.

Last spring, I decided to retire early from teaching and explore the possibility of residing in Spain. More than half of the people I talked to suggested I explore Portugal, too. Since I had 90 days, I decided to give Portugal a chance.

I planned most of my itinerary based on a friend’s suggestions. She pulled out her photo album from a two-week trip to Portugal, and I took notes.

Coimbra is the only place I picked on my own, partly because of its location. I also liked that it was a university town, the “Oxford of Portugal.”

When I arrive in a new place, I look up gluten-free restaurants. Coimbra ended up being celiac foodie heaven! Additionally, I was staying in a hotel because I couldn’t find a studio apartment that fit my budget and location requirements. That meant dinners out. (While traveling, I prepare most of my food to save money and eat healthily.)

I immediately found eleven restaurants offering gluten-free menus or at least GF dishes. I dined very well on each of the three nights of my stay.

Soup is a big thing in Portugal
Slow-cooked beef: a worthy splurge!

Tuesday night at Refeitro da Baixa, I was first served a delicious gluten-free whole-grain bread with butter and olive oil. The next course was a lovely vegetable soup, and I splurged on the slow-cooked beef in wine sauce with vegetables and potato puree. Enjoying a gourmet meal in a unique environment (a former ceramics factory) without worrying about gluten contamination was wonderful!

Part of the ceramics factory was still there. Maybe they rent out part of the building to the restaurant?

Wednesday’s lunch was at Sete. They didn’t take lunch reservations, so I arrived when they opened to be sure to get a table. It had been a rainy day, so I decided to make it a leisurely lunch while I watched to downpour outside. I started with a GF Super Bock and olives, followed by vegetable soup (squash-based) and salmon with vegetables. Every bite was so delicious that I considered scrapping my dinner plans to return.

I had a perfect view of the downpour.
Salmon, veggies, and black quinoa on the side

Wednesday evening, I dined at No Tacho. It was a busy, noisy little place, but the food and service were excellent. My dinner started with a small glass of sparkling wine and an appetizer on the house. Their plan worked; I ordered a glass. I branched out and tried the octopus salad. It wasn’t really my thing, but it was good. Then I had risotto with pork tenderloin—delicious!

Octopus salad
Pork tenderloin with risotto

Thursday, I took the bus to Fatima. I was in the neighborhood, so I couldn’t miss one of the world’s holiest sites.

I returned with plenty of daylight to spare and decided on Tapas Nos Costas for dinner. I cheated a little, eating Spanish food in Portugal, but it was oh-so-good and not typically Spanish.

First, I had a romantic table for two in a stone alcove. (Would my mystery Portuguese boyfriend magically appear?) I had a salad with orange, roasted fennel, and lamb chops with honey and almonds, both incredible! Room for dessert? Sure. Basque cheesecake with blueberries! Oh, my. I never eat cheesecake. It was moist and lighter than our American stuff!

A cozy little table for two

But wait, there’s more to tell. When in Coimbra, you absolutely must go to Cosi Gelato. All the gelato and sorbet are made on-site with fresh ingredients. The best part is that you can order a small and get two flavors. I went all four days that I was in Coimbra and tried different sorbets every day: avocado-lime, pineapple-mint, mango-coconut, fig, passion fruit…each one was delicious! There are more than 100 flavors that rotate through.

My train left at 1:40 on Friday. I figured I could check out of my room, leave the suitcase at the hotel, run to Cosi Gelato to arrive when it opened, and still get back to pick up my luggage in time. There was some distance to cover, but my legs were in excellent shape from all the Portuguese hill walking. Are you starting to see how food motivates me?

I arrived at noon, and a man I had yet to meet greeted me from behind the counter. I asked if he was the owner, and he confirmed. We had a lovely conversation. He told me about the places I should see in Portugal and showed me pictures of the massive waves in Nazaré, my next stop. I thought, “Could he be single? I think I’m in love!” Heck, I was already in love with the sorbet. I could live happily ever after in Coimbra.

I could have stayed much longer, but there was that train to catch. I honestly will return to Coimbra just to eat at Cosi Gelato. It’s that good! And it is a cool university town.

Delayed Adventure

September 2, 2022

Today was the day—I woke up at 5:00 AM, bags packed and ready to head to the airport. Today was when I was to leave on a long-awaited 90-day adventure to Spain and Portugal. Fortunately, I checked my email because my flight out of Seattle was delayed by one hour, so I would not make my connection in Dallas. So glad I did not learn this at the airport!

I waited in the kitchen until my cousin woke up, so I could share the bad news. But hey, my flight was rebooked for 7:00 AM tomorrow. That would mean heading out at 4:00 AM. We both decided to go back to bed. I crashed out and slept until 10:30.

I would have been devastated if this had been a short trip, say a week or ten days. But how can I be upset when I know I will be in Europe for three months? On top of that, school started this week, and I am not in the classroom. And hey, my hotel in Madrid is pre-paid; I can go right to check in when I arrive on Sunday morning. So much to be grateful for!

The past few years have taught me that I can make plans, but I need to be ready for them to change. I was supposed to be house-sitting in Valencia from September 4-20, but my new friends canceled two weeks after I bought my plane ticket. They decided to move back to the states in July. Then I changed my plans and decided to explore Portugal before heading to Spain.

I know there will be ups and downs, pleasant surprises, and devastating disappointments in the weeks ahead. This morning reminded me that I need to roll with it, and it will all be worth it. Adventure on—well, tomorrow!

Great adventures are worth the wait!