Lessons Learned from Two Years of Nomad Life

April 12, 2024

Two years ago, I sold my home and most of my possessions to embark on a life of more adventure, higher happiness, and less stuff. I’ve experienced a lot and am still figuring it out. Here are some of the things I’ve learned along the way.

There are no Rules

Everyone has an opinion or wants to throw out an acronym. Did you FIRE? Are you a Slomad? Some people give up all their possessions and live out of backpacks, while others keep a home. I’m somewhere in between. I no longer own a home but have a car and rent a storage unit. And no, I don’t sleep in my car.

The reality is—who cares about labels? Do your own thing. I initially considered living as an expat in Spain. I soon realized I preferred moving around and experiencing different cultures. Additionally, I love my friends and family in the US, so I spend about half my year here.

If you’re thinking of giving it a try, do just that. Try it out. Maybe you can take a leave of absence and go on an adventure. I have been an enthusiastic traveler my entire adult life. As a teacher, I could take long summer trips once my kids had left the nest. I had a pretty good idea of what I was getting into. Living as a nomad is different than taking a ten-day vacation, though.

This lifestyle isn’t for everyone, and that’s okay.

Don’t Make Big Plans

Plans change. That’s the reality whether you live a nomadic life or not. When I returned from an extended visit to Europe in December 2022, I found my sister in an unhealthy state. I dropped all my plans to take care of her. Sadly, she passed away from pancreatic cancer a few weeks later. But I am happy I could be with her in her final weeks.

I do, however, make general plans. It’s April, and I have a skeleton plan for the rest of my year. That’s partly my personality and partly that I get requests for house sits. Would you turn down two weeks taking care of a cat in Hawaii?

Housesitting is a Huge Budget Saver

I first learned about housesitting over a decade ago, and it has been part of my retirement plan ever since. I have to say, I mostly love it. I enjoy meeting new people and their pets, and pet parents are grateful for the service. I also get a free place to stay with furry roommates.

I have completed nineteen house sits in the past year. Six have been for friends, thirteen from Trusted House Sitters, and two have been “no pet” sits. The length of sits has been between three days and seven weeks. A couple pets have been a little challenging, but it has mostly been a positive experience. Some people leave snacks, and some invite me for dinner the night before the sit. In total, I have stayed for free 165 nights over the past year, and I’ve made new friends, too.

Get a Credit Card (or Two) to Support Your Lifestyle

I have one card that gets me free hotel stays and one that racks up airline miles. Some people continually open new credit cards to get free points. That’s not really my style. But again, I’m not making the rules.

Call in Your Support People

I am fortunate to have friends and family members who support me in various ways. I have a home base and permanent address with a family member. Several people in my life have offered me a place to stay, whether I’m traveling around the western US or needing a place to crash between house sits.

When I travel outside the country, I have a family member and a friend who allow me to park my car on their property.

Not everyone has such good fortune; I am grateful for their support.

You Meet a lot of Interesting People

I strike up more conversations with strangers than I used to. I believe I am more open, given my lifestyle. Another aspect is my “dog magnetism.” Ever since I started pet sitting, I tend to chat with dog owners, even when I’m not walking a dog.

While abroad, I’ve met some fellow adventurers and have started meeting up with new friends in other countries.

Find the Combination that Works for You

As I stated earlier, I like to spend part of my year in the Western US near friends and family. I love southern Europe and will never tire of Spain, Portugal, and Greece. But there are many parts of the world that I have yet to see. This year, I will be checking off more bucket list destinations.

I look at my budget as a yearly number. House sits don’t cost me much. However, a little apartment in Oslo is more expensive than one on a Greek island. It all evens out in the end.

The nomad life isn’t for everyone. I’m still figuring it out, and my lifestyle continues to evolve. Sometimes, I feel like I need to do more; then, I remember the high-stress life I was living before I made this change. I haven’t worked in nearly two years, but I don’t know if I’m fully retired. I am open to working remotely, part-time, or seasonally in the future.

So, two years later, am I living a happier, simpler life with a lower stress level? Yes! And the adventures continue.

Hiking Hawaii’s National Parks

August 22, 2023

When traveling, do you ever think, “I’ll go back there someday and…?”

I do that a lot. In fact, I’ve been doing it since I was a teenager when I got my first taste of travel beyond my home state.

Since becoming a nomad, I have had several opportunities to “go back and…” The latest example is an 18-day trip to Hawaii, the Big Island.

I first visited fifteen years ago with my then-husband and two children. It was one of our most memorable family trips. We stayed in three different locations on the island for eleven days. In fact, one place we stayed, in Puna, was covered in the 2018 lava flows, so I truly can’t go back!

The one disappointment of that family trip was the weather on our visit to Volcanoes National Park. It was rainy, and both calderas were ensconced in fog. We didn’t get to see or do much.

More recently, I have returned twice, but each time I was with non-hiker people. I got to see Kilauea and Kilauea Iki, but I wanted to hike there. After the most recent visit, I promised myself to come back and hike.

This year, I returned by myself this time and did just that. I reserved an Airbnb close to the park for two nights and prayed for good weather.

On the first day, I started from the Devastation parking lot to avoid the crowds elsewhere. I then took the Byron Ledge Trail and kept veering left until I reached the east end of Kilauea Caldera. After that, I went to the right and hiked up to the Crater Rim Trail (parts of which are the old Crater Rim Drive). I opted to walk through the Kilauea Iki viewpoint and took a little side trip through the Thurston Lava Tube. Finally, I dipped back down to hike across Kilauea Iki and back up the Byron Ledge Trail to my car. The distance was 8.1 miles.

While hiking through Kilauea Iki, the winds picked up and brought in some fog. It created an extra-eerie effect on the already other-worldly trail. The trail becomes rocky at the far end of Kilauea Iki and makes for a challenging passage. I highly recommend hiking boots with Vibram soles for this endeavor.

On the second day in the park, I hiked through the Mauna Ulu flow (1969-1974) on the Napau Crater Trail (off of The Chain of Craters Drive). I didn’t put in as many miles, but I thoroughly enjoyed the unique formations left by the lava flows.

After the hike, I continued down the Chain of Craters Road to the ocean, stopping at every crater and most viewpoints.

When I reached the coastline, I pulled over on the second pullout and saw a sea arch. It wasn’t the famous Holei Arch that everyone goes to. I thought it was a lucky occurrence.

But wait, there’s more!

The Big Island has more than one National Park. Don’t miss out, especially if you enjoy history.

Pu’uhonua O Honaunau National Historical Park (Place of Refuge)

This is a highly scenic park with an exciting history. The trail is relatively easy, and you will see so much culture in a short walk.

I recommend starting at the amphitheater, where you can relax in the shade and watch the video that explains the history of this sacred site.

Kaloko-Honokohau National Historical Park

This is the place you want to go to (almost) guarantee some sea turtle sightings. (A ranger told me there was only one occasion when a visitor returned and told her that they hadn’t seen any turtles.) You will also learn some of the history of the ancient Hawaiians.

The main parking lot is easily reached off Highway 19, just a few miles south of the Kailua-Kona airport. If you aren’t big on walking, I suggest you check in at the Visitor’s Center and then take the short drive over to the Honokohau Harbor, where you can park and take a short walk to the beach, where you will likely see some turtles along with the fish traps and the Heiau (temple).

If you are up for a few miles, hike the “big loop” from the visitor’s center through the trail on the lava fields and up to the Kalako Fishpond. The pond was created by a “massive stone wall,” currently under reconstruction. It’s really something!

Afterward, you will continue hiking, mainly along the beach on varied surfaces, from very rocky to sandy beaches, back to ‘Aimakapa Fishpond and Honokohau Beach. Unfortunately, the final leg of the hike is a bit boring as you walk through the rocky lava back to the Visitor’s Center. Still, there are a few petroglyphs to see on the way.

I highly recommend hiking boots with Vibram soles for this expedition. It’s a relatively flat hike, but many sections are challenging because of the sizeable, uneven lava rocks.

Pu’ukohola Heiau National Historic Site (The Temple on the Hill of the Whale)

Don’t miss this one! I had visited the island three times before finally stopping at the visitor’s center on this trip. And then I went twice!

First, I hope you arrive when George, the park ranger, is on duty because he is the most enthusiastic ranger I have ever met. This guy loves his job! He also explained the difference between historic and historical to me. I will entice you to visit by saying this is probably the most important historic site to Hawaiians. But I really want you to go there and learn the history.

There is some hiking to be done here, but I must admit, I only walked out to the Heiau. No harm in leaving something for that next trip!

Now, your English lesson for the day. Both words are adjectives, and the following definitions are from Dictionary.com.

Historical: of, relating to, treating, or characteristic of history or past events

Historic: well-known or important in history

Therefore, to paraphrase Ranger George, a Historic National Park is where a significant event occurred. A Historical National Park shows the history of the place, but no important events took place there.

No Apologies for My Solo Nomad Lifestyle

August 13, 2023

I have been here in Hawaii (aka The Big Island) for a week—by myself. You are probably wondering what is wrong with me. Does she smell awful? Why doesn’t she have any friends? Seriously, who would go to Hawaii alone??

Well, it just didn’t work out this time. I had been holding a place for my older son, and he had to bow out due to other commitments. Then I tried a couple of friends. One had too many things scheduled in August, and another may be able to join me for a few days at the end of the trip. A single guy friend figured it wouldn’t go over too well with his new girlfriend. Fair enough.

So here I am, by myself.

The trip got off to a rocky start. My flight was delayed, and I was lucky enough to get a loud, kicking preschooler in the seat behind me.

By the time I checked in and got settled for bed, it was 3:00 AM back home.

My first full day in Hawaii consisted of sleeping in, exchanging my malfunctioning rental car, grocery shopping, and a late afternoon swim before dinner. Ah, paradise!

While driving around that first day, I heard the high wind warnings on the car radio. Hurricane Dora was passing south of the Hawaiian Islands.

In case you’ve been living in a cave, I’ll tell you what happened next. Dry conditions and high winds caused devastating wildfires on Maui and some smaller fires here on the Big Island.

I took a nice long beach walk Tuesday morning before the winds kicked up. I then spent the afternoon and evening safely in my condo, watching the trees sway, palm fronds and branches dropping to the ground.

The news the next day was heartbreaking. Beautiful, historic Lahaina had been devastated by the fires. As of today, we know that more than 100 people lost their lives.

Hearing that news about the neighboring island put a damper on the joy of my visit. I stayed close to my accommodations on Wednesday since a section of the highway was closed due to the fires.

I went out to attempt a hike on Thursday morning, hoping that the winds had calmed. Nope. Still super windy. Instead, I opted to shop at the health food store and Foodland in Waimea. At this point, I clearly was not going to starve. In my defense, I rarely eat out.

Finally, on Friday morning, I headed way up to Pololu on the north end of the island to hike the short but steep trail down to the black sand beach. Now I could start fully enjoying my time on the islands. This was the Hawaii I knew and loved.

Yesterday, I went to three farmers’ markets up in Waimea, all unique and lively. Hawaiian farmers markets make me so happy. I love seeing the exotic fruits and vegetables and meeting the people who grow them.

I enjoyed a leisurely shoreline walk in the afternoon and went for my pre-dinner swim, which has become part of my daily routine.

This is my first time alone in Hawaii, but I have visited a few times in the past. I’m doing what I want and settling into the pace of my days. I have the luxury of being here for more than two weeks, so the typical must-see tourist urgency is lacking. I sit out on the patio after lunch most days and read in the shade. This morning, I lingered on the beach and watched turtles for an hour.

From this day forward, I will never apologize for my solo travels. (Although, I’m happy when friends can join me, and I won’t complain if Mr. Wonderful shows up to accompany me.)

In a couple of days, I’m heading to Hawaii Volcanoes National Park. I’ve arranged a two-night stay in the area to fully explore the park. Not a screaming deal this time but worth it for the location.

I got online today to make a dinner reservation at The Rim restaurant in the park. Even though I prepare most of my own food, I occasionally go out to eat. This restaurant has been on my “to do” list for a while along with some hikes in the park. I’ll burn the calories and enjoy the splurge.

For the first time, I had the option of making a reservation for ONE. (Usually, the dropdown options start at two.)

I feel like it’s a good sign.

Obsessed with Minimalism

July 3, 2023

My recent obsession with minimalism has become excessive.

Last year, I took an epic, life-changing trip to Europe, my first as a nomad. In fact, it was during that trip that I decided to live a nomadic life.

But my suitcase was too heavy. It was also too cheap, and I replaced it halfway through the journey. (The boots were an unnecessary purchase, but they’re pretty cute!) Lots of lessons learned.

I’m currently in my home state, Washington, enjoying the best house-sitting gig ever. My duties include watering plans and…well, that’s it. No pets. My friend is off on his own European adventure for a while, and I get to enjoy his beautiful home as a zero-cost Airbnb.

It’s good to have some time to unpack and assess my travel wardrobe. I am determined to take at least seven pounds out of my suitcase.

In eight weeks, I’ll embark on my longest nomad adventure yet. I’ll start in England and then head to Croatia, Greece, and the Canary Islands. The journey will end in mainland Spain in December, my favorite place to be at Christmastime. In total, I will be living out of my suitcase and daypack for 105 days. I expect to experience primarily warm weather and plan to use layers and my treasured down coat to cover the cooler days.

Thanks to the open closet design of my friend’s modern, eco-friendly house, I have been staring at this space a little too much.

The good news is that I have a couple of shorter trips, one this month and another next, where I can try out the wardrobe before committing to the long journey.

As far as toiletries and accessories go, I’m losing some weight there, too. I’m testing out laundry sheets and have decided that shampoo and conditioner bars will work for backup when staying at places where they are not provided.

Leave a comment if you have a great packing tip to share! I’ll let you know how it goes.

UPDATE: I’ve been back for a few weeks, so I guess I’d better confess that I am still no packing expert.

I intentionally decided to bring a few pieces of clothing that were getting a bit worn with the intention of discarding them as I traveled to lighten my load. That part did work out. I even discarded a pair of boots to make room for Christmas gifts.

I’ve decided on some favorite items and will replace them as needed before my next overseas journey.

And, as you would guess, my load got lighter as I used up certain items like disposable contact lenses and lotions.

The laundry sheets were adequate. I’m not a big fan of the shampoo and conditioner bars, though.

Nomad Life: How Did I Get Here?

June 20, 2023

Do you ever stop and wonder about the twists and turns of your life?

Mine has taken many in the past five years.

If you had told me in June 2018 that in five years, I would be homeless by choice and changing doggie diapers, I don’t know if I would have laughed, freaked out, or broken down in tears.

But here I am.

You see, I was one of those Type A people who liked to be in control and lead a tidy, secure life. I was a lifelong educator, and although I always found it challenging, I figured I would segway into a new career at some point.

In fact, I did make a change in 2018. I sold my condo in the Seattle area and moved to Montana’s Flathead Valley.

This is it! I thought. But it wasn’t.

Don’t get me wrong—there were a lot of wonderful outcomes from that move. I enjoyed a year of outdoor recreation and made tons of new friends. What I didn’t do was plan for a source of income. I was overly optimistic about finding a suitable job that would give me some income but still allow for ample time in the great outdoors. It just didn’t work out.

I have an old friend who firmly believes life is all about timing. I guess I didn’t time that one right.

After a year, I returned to my home state, Washington, and returned to my safe but stressful career teaching high school. I took a position in Eastern Washington, thinking that changing to a smaller rural school would be better and keep me closer to new friends in Montana.

Then, you know what happened: Pandemic. There’s nothing like being in a new job in a new location and then being locked up alone in your isolated home in the country.

A couple of months into the pandemic, a friend and colleague stopped by for an on-the-porch visit. She encouraged me to head back to the west side of the state to be closer to friends and family. It was May, and we still didn’t know what the following months and years would bring.

I got online, found an appropriate open position, arranged for a nontraditional interview, and got the job.

It was time to move again.

I bought a “fixer-upper” to have something to do. Ha! I would not recommend remodeling a house during a pandemic. Supply shortages, inflated prices…it was not a fun experience.

That’s the short version of what led me to my current lifestyle.

If you or someone close to you works in public education, you know how tough the past few years have been. We teachers have been dropping like flies.

A year ago, I decided to sell that newly remodeled house, got rid of most of my possessions, and quit my job. Another teacher down.

My initial plan was to retire in Spain, at least for a year or two. I had traveled there about a dozen times over the years, and two involved longer stays in educational programs. I had always loved Spain. Why not live the Spanish ex-pat life for a while?

After traveling around the Western US in the summer of 2022, I set out for a three-month trip to Europe in September. I had an apartment reserved in Valencia, Spain, for the month of October. It would be an excellent trial period to see if I wanted to live there for a year or two.

In the end, I realized that traveling was what gave me the most joy. Exploring new places fed my soul like nothing else in life.

I had been following the blog of a nomadic couple from Seattle for several months. Initially, I thought there was no way I would ever do it. Nine months later, I realized it was exactly what I wanted to do.

So here I am. My nomadic lifestyle continues to evolve.

Last December, I returned from Europe to find my sister in a poor state physically and emotionally. I instantly put the brakes on my life to take care of her. I rented a house for three months (negotiated an Airbnb) to allow us time to assess her health and make a plan. I was ready to go back to work, at least part-time.

Sadly, my sister passed away from pancreatic cancer in January.

I decided to keep the short-term rental through March, as planned, to grieve and help sort out my sister’s affairs. Looking back, it was the right move. I spent more time with my adult children than I had in years, and there were numerous visits with family and friends. I also bonded further with my niece and her husband and kids.

That experience made me realize that I needed a hybrid plan. I wanted to spend a chunk of the year in Western Washington near family and friends. In other words, this is still home. I don’t want to lose that.

After traveling throughout the western states again this spring, I arrived “home” on June first. I was able to arrange pet-sitting and house-sitting gigs in the area through mid-July.

One of the most important things I have learned over the past few years is to be flexible because changes will always arise.

And there are no rules to the nomadic lifestyle. You can make it what you want.

Who knows? I may go back to work one of these days. For now, I appreciate the freedom and joy that come with simplifying.

Going to the Dogs: Is Pet Sitting for You?

June 16, 2023

As part of my nomadic life, I have recently added pet and house sitting to my portfolio. Years ago, my now ex-husband and I had considered it for our retirement plan. The idea reappeared on my nomad Facebook group (GoWithLess), and I have done a couple of sits for friends. It’s an excellent way to cut my overall costs, too.

You see, I am a nomad, but I don’t live in a van or RV. I drive a Honda CRV. It gets great mileage, has plenty of room to haul my gear, and has the all-important all-wheel drive. I’ve resisted the van life because I spend time visiting friends in the US, and I like the freedom of a smaller vehicle. And when I’m out of the country, I leave it parked at a relative’s house. All good.

The other day, a friend asked how the pet-sitting was going. I wasn’t really sure. That might make a good blog post!

There are a lot of pros:

A no-cost place to stay. People also give permission to raid the fridge and freezer. Great for the overall budget!
Good company. It’s nice to have canine and feline companions after being on the road or out of the country for weeks.
Comfortable, spacious accommodations. For example, the place where I recently stayed has a gourmet kitchen and a gorgeous deck with a lush parklike backyard.
I’m doing something to help others. After teaching, raising kids, and doing my share of volunteering over the years, I have a need to help others.
Pet owners are oh-so-grateful for my services. Some dogs don’t do well in kennels, and it gives homeowners peace of mind to have the house occupied.

The downsides of house sitting and pet sitting:

You can’t predict the pet’s temperament. Dogs, especially, can be nervous or sad that their owners are absent.
You won’t know how noisy the neighborhood is until you get there.
You have to get through the “adjustment phase” of each sit. So far, almost every first night has been challenging and has left me short on sleep.
Depending on the pet(s), you may feel tied down. I have gotten used to the freedom to do whatever I want while I travel. Dog owners have asked me to limit my time away from home to as little as three hours. (Most allow longer periods away, though!)

If you’re considering house sitting/pet sitting as a means of budget travel, think about your preferences and comfort level.

Do you enjoy animals? If you don’t, please don’t even think about doing this!
Will you respect the pet owner’s wishes and adhere to routines?
Are you confident, and do you feel comfortable taking care of the pets and homes of others? It’s a big responsibility!
Will you be able to handle a pet emergency?

As of today, I plan to continue to pet sit for two or three months of the year while I am in the US. As a retired fifty-something teacher, people see me as a trustworthy candidate to care for their homes and pets. The reality is that more people are looking for pet sitters than there are pet sitters available. I regularly receive requests, and I’m learning to be picky.

I approach my budget as a yearly number, not monthly. By spending two or three months a year pet-sitting, I have more money to spend on international travel. For example, I’m planning to splurge on a trip to the Galapagos next year.

If you are interested, the site I use is TrustedHousesitters.com. (No, I’m not getting a kickback.) There is an annual fee for sitters and homeowners to use the site. All parties receive a background check and must provide identification. The premium plan gives sitters insurance, where you will get reimbursed for up to ten nights of hotel stays if a sit is canceled (up to $150 per night). There is also on-call veterinary support.

Some people think I’m crazy to sit for free, but I prefer it. If I were to establish my own business, that would involve setting up an LLC and getting bonded and insured. Then I would be paying taxes on the minimal income that I would make. To me, it wouldn’t be worth the fuss. My nomadic life is all about keeping it simple.

Travel Timing

May 29, 2023

When planning a travel itinerary, sometimes it takes effort to guess how much time to spend in each place. At times I make adjustments, but I rarely wish I had spent less time in an area. That’s how I feel about Northern California.
It’s hard to know how many days to allot if you’ve never been to a place. I’ve visited California several times, but all but one visit was to the coast. I had always heard about the beauty of Lake Tahoe, and I knew I’d easily be able to fill a week there. That part of the itinerary was spot-on.

Snow hiking above Lake Tahoe to Eagle Lake on Mother’s Day 2023

Paddle Boarding on Lake Tahoe in May: Gorgeous!

It was the travel from Tahoe to Oregon where I short-changed myself. I had a mere afternoon to see Lassen Volcanic National Park. I could only get a little way into the southern entrance since the main road through the park was still snow-covered. I didn’t even make it to the northern entrance.

I was also in a rush at Lake Shasta and Mount Shasta. Although I did well with my limited time (one day), I would love to return and see more of the area. In fact, that day at Mount Shasta, I yearned to get a camper van. I could picture myself chilling out for a few days at one of the campgrounds there.

The main reason for my pressed itinerary was a dog-sitting gig in Bend, Oregon. I knew setting myself up with no-cost accommodations for Memorial Day weekend would be wise. And, indeed, it was a good idea. My canine companion was a sweetheart. I visited local sights like the Newberry National Monument, the Deschutes River, and the High Desert Museum.

Lava Butte at Newberry National Monument near Bend, Oregon

Benham Falls, Newberry National Monument

Obsidian Flow, Newberry National Monument

Tomorrow, I will start making my way back to Washington, my home state. More dog sitting on the agenda, and a Celebration of Life to honor my sister next Sunday.
It will be good to be “home.”

The Great Melt

May 16, 2023

Traveling during shoulder season is a great way to save money and avoid crowds. I have been on the road in the American West for seven weeks now. I’ve decided to call this trip “The Great Melt.”

March 31, 2023: Lake MacDonald in Glacier National Park

In early April, I enjoyed some end-of-the-season Nordic skiing and a day of snow hiking in Montana. All of the outings were crowd-free, as we saw few other people.

April 2, 2023: A friend and I hiked a partially thawed cross-country ski trail

April 5, 2023: My cousin and I skied up at Lost Trail Pass on the Montana-Idaho Border

A week later, I was in Park City. Even though the temperatures were rising to the low 60s, there was still some good skiing, especially if you got out in the morning. I literally watched the snow melt away during the week I was there (April 7-14).

April 8, 2023: Skiing the White Pine in Park City

April 8-9, 2023: Round Mountain Trails in Park City, Utah

I then enjoyed a few days in the Grand Canyon. There was very little snow left in the Grand Canyon, and temperatures were comfortable. Spring break had wrapped up everywhere, so the crowds were manageable. It was a great time to visit!

April 18, 2023: A tiny bit of snow remained at the South Rim of the Grand Canyon

A week in Sedona followed by another week in New Mexico were all sunshine and comfortable temperatures in the 60s and low 70s. I hiked nearly every day; it was heavenly!

My weekend in Colorado Springs was perfect. I stayed close to the historic downtown and enjoyed a day at the Garden of the Gods. Even though it was a sunny Saturday, the park wasn’t overly crowded, and I could hike throughout in awe of the rock formations.

May 6, 2023: No snow in the Garden of the Gods, but the surrounding mountains were still snow-covered.

As it was getting into May, you might think snow time was over. Not this year! There was still quite a bit of snow when I arrived in Breckenridge, Colorado. Nearby Lake Dillon was frozen over but beginning to thaw. The hillsides around it were dry, making for some fantastic hiking.

After a few days in Breckenridge, I started my journey west.

I arrived in Grand Junction, Colorado, in the early afternoon, which allowed me time to explore Colorado National Monument. Talk about uncrowded! Aside from the healthy group of people hiking Devil’s Kitchen, visitors were few and far between. In fact, I would have done more hiking, but the other trailheads I visited were empty, as in no other cars. As a solo traveler, I feel it’s unsafe to be alone on a trail, so I took in the sights and enjoyed walking around at the viewpoints.

May 10: Devil’s Kitchen in Colorado National Monument

When I arrived at Great Basin National Park the next day, I was disappointed that part of the Wheeler Peak scenic drive was still closed due to snow. I was looking forward to taking in the views and seeing the ancient bristlecone pines. Cave tours were limited to two per day, so I had missed out on that opportunity, too. I made the most of what I could see and especially enjoyed the Pole Canyon and Baker Creek areas. I’ll have to return with more time on my agenda in warmer months.

May 11: My best shot of Wheeler Peak in Great Basin National Monument

A few days ago, I arrived in South Lake Tahoe, just over the California border. As you probably know, this area experienced record snowfall this year. Some of the mountains surrounding the lake still have quite a bit of snowpack. It’s absolutely stunning!

The downside is that all the state parks are still closed. I imagine they want to clean up all the winter debris before opening them. Many of the hiking trails are not yet accessible, either. The trail I planned to hike a couple of days ago was snowed in. After consulting with a local who assured me it was safe and relatively easy, I ended up hiking a nearby trail to Eagle Falls and Eagle Lake. Most of the path was packed snow, so the route was easy to follow. The views were incredible, and I was thankful for the beautiful Mother’s Day experience. What else would I rather be doing on my special day?

May 14, 2023: Hiking to Eagle Lake near Lake Tahoe

Yesterday, I met a California friend for a snowshoe outing near Donner Pass. Once again, the weather was perfectly clear, and the views were fantastic. As the temperatures climbed into the 60s, the snow became more difficult to navigate. The trip back proved challenging, and I felt fully satisfied with the day’s workout.

May 15, 2023: On top of the World in our snowshoes near Donner Pass, California

Additionally, due to the high snowpack in northern California, I took Yosemite off my itinerary entirely. I’ll have to keep it on the bucket list for a future visit.

So, shoulder season travel in the Western states? My vote is a resounding YES! I can’t think of anywhere else I’d rather be.

Update: May 26, 2023

Every time that I think I have enjoyed my last day of fun in the snow, another opportunity appears.

As I continued working my way north toward Oregon, I first ran into snow in Lassen Volcanic National Park. I just snow hiked a few miles on May 19th, but again, I was fortunate to experience yet another bright sunny spring day!

On May 20, I stopped at Mount Shasta, and the woman at the tourist office recommended that I snowshoe to get the most enjoyment out of my day on the mountain. She told me about a less-popular location where I snowshoed to a beautiful clearing and had the mountain all to myself!

A couple of days later, on May 23, I arrived at Crater Lake. Still tons of snow there! I have to admit, these are some of the best photos of the trip.

The Day of Closed Doors

April 28, 2023

We all have those days when things don’t go to plan. Unfortunately, I am a planner. I like to think I can go with the flow, and sometimes I do. But I like having my travels at least sketched out in advance.

Today, in fact, I altered my original plan. A friend had told me about Canyon De Chelly National Monument. Visiting it would take me on a northward excursion out of the way. Still, I figured I had the time and love seeing those “less popular” National Monuments.

Hubbell Trading Post National Historic Landmark

I left Holbrook, Arizona, this morning and headed northeast. The first stop was the Hubbell Trading Post, a National Historic Landmark. There’s a visitor center, and parts of the old trading post are open for visitors and shopping.

The inside of the trading post preserves its original charm with modern goods.

I love the baskets on the ceiling of the trading post!

Since I’m a nomad, shopping is not really my thing. But I bought a few gifts, so I have to admit the trading post was pretty cool.

I then continued north to Canyon de Chelly National Monument. When I arrived, it was CLOSED because of flooding. The police officer who was blocking the road said I could go up and around to the other entrance adding 90 minutes to my drive. It would be even further in the wrong direction, so I decided against the idea.

I backtracked south (one of the least scenic stretches of this trip) and stopped to top off the tank. When I went inside, the bathrooms were CLOSED, out of order. What was going on?

I eventually made my way to Red Rock State Park near Gallup, New Mexico. It was 2:45 when I reached the park office, but it was—you guessed it—CLOSED. The posted hours were 8:00-4:00, but a little sign said, “Will return at 8:00.” It was also the strangest state park I’ve ever visited. It looked more like a state fairground with rodeo facilities.
Besides Hubbell Trading Post, it had been a day of disappointment. But, as a friend once said, “You can turn a bad day around at any time.”

There were two hiking trails, so I could make something good of the afternoon. I decided to hike Pyramid Rock. A young man came off the trail when I arrived, so I asked him for the report. He assured me it was beautiful and not very far to the top.

It was a short (3.4-mile roundtrip) but highly scenic hike.

Signs along the Pyramid Rock Trail encourage hikers at every quarter mile.

When I arrived at the top of Pyramid Rock, I had the space to myself, every hiker’s delight! The day of closed doors ended with a massive open space and marvelous views, just for me.

One of the views form the top of Pyramid Rock

I’ll see Canyon de Chelly another day.

El Malpais and El Morro

April 29, 2023

Based on the title, you might think that I’m back in Spain. Nope! New Mexico. I’m on my way to visit friends in Santa Fe, which allowed me to explore some of the state.

El Malpais National Park is near Grants, New Mexico, south of Interstate 40 and just over an hour west of Albuquerque. The way to visit the park is to start at the visitor center, which is literally across the freeway from Grants.
Unlike most National Parks, the visitor center is not the grand entrance. The park is split into two sections, and the visitor center is in a sort of no man’s land in between.

To reach the eastern section, drive up to exit 89. Then you can enjoy a scenic drive with a few stops along the way. There is not much hiking in this section, so I saved it for the late afternoon.

La Ventana Arch in the east side of El Malpais

Lava Falls is a hiking area on the south end of the eastern part of the park. I found the trail markers confusing and didn’t venture far.

Sandstone Bluffs in the eastern section of El Malpais

To reach the west section of the park, drive west to exit 81. Then continue to go south, where you will have a few hiking opportunities in the park.

Based on the recommendation from the visitor center, I hiked El Calderon to a volcanic crater. It was a perfect day for hiking, sunny and in the 60s. The trail was not crowded, and the trailhead had an inviting picnic area. The hike took me by some interesting lava tubes and up around the crater.

The caves on the El Calderon trail are currently closed. Sorry. No spelunking!

The hike continues along the crater rim.

Most of El Calderon Trail looks like this.

If you hike the longer loop, you will have to go through the more challenging lava field section.

After my hike, I decided to check out El Morro National Monument. So glad I did! I still had energy, so I took the two-mile Headland Trail up on the 240-foot rock bluff. Even though it was a sunny Saturday afternoon, the trail wasn’t crowded, and I ended up on top alone. If you are an avid hiker, you can appreciate the serenity and beauty that one experiences alone in nature. And after visiting busy places like the Grand Canyon and Sedona, alone time was a treasure. There was truly an otherworldly feeling up there. And there was a bonus—an ancestral Puebloan Dwelling.

The beautiful rock bluffs of El Morro National Monument

This box canyon is only visible from the top of the bluff.

Having descended, new views of the bluff appeared. The lines were created from water flow.

After descending the bluff, the trail connects to the half-mile Inscription Trail. There are hundreds of Spanish and American inscriptions on the rocks, along with some petroglyphs.

I highly recommend both El Malpais and El Morro.

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