One of the joys of a nomadic lifestyle is checking off the bucket list. Okay, so sleeping in a castle wasn’t exactly on my bucket list. Still, I have always wanted to stay in a historic building. And this was yet another experience that was better than expected.
The not-so-secret entrance to the castle dorm rooms!
You can reserve a room in Durham Castle in northeastern England during the summer when the university students are on break. You see, part of the castle has been converted into dorm rooms while other sections are open for tours during limited hours.
The rooms are nothing special, but you can get one with a private bath. Mine was on the tiny side, but that was fine with me. I also had to climb four and a half flights of stairs to get to the room, but that was okay, too.
Besides staying in a castle, overnight guests enjoy breakfast in the Grand Hall. This could also fulfill a bucket list item if you are a Harry Potter fan, as the hall has that feel. Just imagine the grand events that have been hosted here! The offerings are extensive, with everything you could want for breakfast, and a kind staff member ordered gluten-free croissants for me every morning. (If you are gluten-free, ask!)
Beyond the Castle, you will find that you are ideally situated in Durham’s quaint, historic city. Across the Palace Green is the Cathedral.
Down the hill are the historic town and market plaza.
The River Wear snakes its way around the city.
You can walk less than a mile to Crook Hall Gardens.
I highly recommend at least a couple of nights in Durham if you are planning a visit to northeastern England!
I arrived in Durham, England, last night after a grueling day of travel from Seattle. But first, let’s get something straight—my travel went remarkably smoothly, especially given my international flight history. My son says I’m about 50-50 for getting an on-time, smooth flight out of Seattle. About a year ago, my flight to Spain was delayed 24 hours. A couple of other times, my luggage didn’t arrive with me. And there was that time when my sister and I spent seven hours at SeaTac Airport shopping, drinking wine, and getting pedicures. On the day of my departure, there had been traffic control issues at Heathrow. I happened to be listening to BBC radio as I was driving around that day. I thought for sure my flight would be delayed for the second year in a row. Miraculously, we departed on time. The plane was about 70% full, so the flight attendant switched my seat to one with extra legroom and an empty seat next to me. My window seat companion was amiable and slept most of the way. Couldn’t ask for better. We arrived on time but had to wait for a spot to deplane. We were only minutes late, and I high-tailed it through the security checkpoint to baggage claim. I needed to get to King’s Cross Station on the tube to catch my 6:30 train to Durham. I’m sure I walked at least a mile through Heathrow, but I easily found the subway station and was on my way with time to spare. When I arrived at King’s Cross at 6:00, I had to wait for the platform announcement. Phew! I had time to spare. Once I boarded the train, I could relax and enjoy the three-hour journey. I watched the sunset from the window and fought to stay awake while munching on some local junk food.
Durham Train Station was quiet at 9:30 p.m., as no one was there. It was also well after dark. I called the phone number posted for taxis and received a text back. In their reply, I was informed that a taxi would be available at 11:00 p.m. As I was texting, a woman appeared. I shared my taxi woes with her, and she asked where I was going. “I’ll share my Uber with you. The castle is on the way to my house.” She lives in Durham and didn’t know that one could rent a dorm room in the converted castle during the summer months. She appreciated the information, and I was oh-so-grateful for the ride. The driver dropped me off at Palace Green. Straight ahead was the beautifully lit Cathedral. But where was the Porters Lodge where I was to check in?
I spotted a young couple on a romantic stroll, and they offered to help. In fact, they said they would stay with me until we found it. I felt fortunate to experience the kindness of strangers in my exhausted state. It was relatively easy to find, and I successfully checked in. The porter then showed me where to enter the building and gave me the security code. He said I would need to “go up a few” and I would find my room. You know how you feel when you are sleep-deprived, and you can’t quite think straight? There’s also a physical ache that comes with that exhaustion. Well, I had to go up a “few” flights of stairs to get to my room. I left the suitcase at the bottom of the stairs to assess the situation. I’ve checked into a few unclean (and one occupied) rooms, and I didn’t want to lug up that suitcase twice.
I’m happy to report that all was well. Who wouldn’t want to sleep in an ancient castle with modern amenities? I got to sleep before midnight and woke up around 7:30. Breakfast is served in the Great Hall from 8:00-10:00 and is included in the price of the stay. It’s an all-you-can-imagine-to-eat affair, and the Great Hall, built in the 13th century, has been the social hub of the castle for centuries. I love to walk through historic sites but rarely get to eat or sleep in them.
Looks like this adventure is off to a pretty good start!
Wandering Shannon 