October 23, 2024 I just disembarked from my first long cruise. Previously, I had cruised for a week at a time. Many of my nomad-traveler friends take advantage of the bargain rates on repositioning cruises, so I decided to give it a try. Nearly a year ago, an acquaintance contacted me to see if I could housesit for her for two weeks in September…in Hawaii. It was an easy yes, and I decided to check off a couple of items from the Bucket List: Australia and New Zealand. Thus began the search for the best cruise from Honolulu to Sydney. I chose Celebrity Edge for several reasons. I’ve always enjoyed the quality of the line, and Edge is in their newest class of ships. The dates fit well into my itinerary, too.
But 18 days at sea with only six port days? This would be a good test to see if I enjoyed the sea days.
First, the ship is gorgeous. I’d say it’s a little classier and more understated than other Celebrity and Royal Caribbean ships I had previously experienced. There are sections dedicated to art displays, and the main atrium is a few stories high rather than a dozen.
The veranda rooms have an infinite veranda, which makes the room feel larger because the veranda is an extension of the room. The outside wall consists of two windows, and the top one can be retracted to form a glass balcony. Storage in the room is abundant and carefully designed to use every inch of possible space. Instead of one large dining room, there are four themed restaurants. Initially, I received a late dining time of 8:15, but on the first night, the hostess switched me to freestyle dining. I could then eat at any restaurant anytime between 5:30 and 8:30. Some nights, I joined new friends for dinner but mostly settled into a 6:30ish dinner time at Tuscan, the Italian-themed restaurant. I connected with one waiter, who was in tune with my dietary needs as a person with Celiac disease. Most nights, I preordered for the next evening. I ate breakfast and lunch in Oceanview Café, the ship’s buffet restaurant. The offerings were extensive, with some sections consistently offering the same foods and others offering specialized dishes. All the dishes were labeled for allergies so I could safely find abundant gluten-free items. There was also a vegan section, and the Indian food quickly became a lunchtime favorite. The only disappointment was the gluten-free mini-cakes. They tended to be dry and hard. Other than that, I ate well! As far as extras are concerned, I splurged on a spa pass for the duration of the journey. On sea days, I worked out in the mornings doing yoga, weights, and the elliptical trainer. Then, I enjoyed the salt room, infrared sauna, steam rooms, and therapeutic showers. It was a great way to start each day!
I had a view of these golden penguins from the sauna!
Entertainment on the ship was abundant and mostly of high quality. There were educational lectures every morning about the environment, the ship’s destinations, and math and science. Ongoing classes included ukelele and drawing. There were game shows, trivia, and a featured show each night. Throughout the ship, various musicians and singers performed in the bars and lounges.
The Eden Bar was filled with plants.
So, would I go on a repositioning cruise again? Yes! I have already booked a transatlantic cruise from Florida to Barcelona for next April. This time, I will be traveling with some fellow nomads. Looking forward to more fun on the high seas!
I recently spent twelve days in Sydney, Australia. Going Down Under has long been on my bucket list. In fact, my fascination with Sydney began in childhood, long before I caught the travel bug on my first European adventure as a university student.
You see, the Sydney Opera House was completed in 1973 when I was in elementary school. I can’t remember the exact circumstances or where I first saw a picture of that iconic building. Still, I know I had waited over fifty years to see it. Add fascinating animals like kangaroos and koalas (I had a beloved stuffed koala bear as a child). Who wouldn’t want to visit Australia?
About a year ago, an acquaintance contacted me to see if I would be able to housesit in her Hawaiian home for two weeks. It only seemed logical to travel to Australia from there.
Many of my nomad friends enjoy traveling on repositioning cruises. Maybe I could get to Australia that way. I found one that left Honolulu for Sydney, and I commenced planning a great adventure from there.
After spending six weeks on four Hawaiian Islands, I boarded Celebrity Edge for an 18-day journey.
First, it was so very nice to arrive in a far-off country and not experience jetlag. The owner of my Airbnb said it had been vacant the night before, so I could head straight there after the morning departure from the ship.
Getting to my accommodation was amazingly simple. Circular Quay, the downtown hub for the passenger ferries, was adjacent to the cruise ship berth. It took just a few minutes to walk over to the correct wharf, and in 15 minutes, I arrived at Kurraba Point, where my little studio apartment was waiting.
The funny thing (okay, not really funny) was that there were 88 stairs to climb from the wharf to the street. No small feat with my luggage!
After checking out part of Sydney’s expansive (and stunning) botanical gardens, I met up with a couple of friends from the cruise. We walked around the heart of the city and found a great hole-in-the-wall Thai restaurant for lunch.
From there, the next eleven days were filled with wonderful outings in one of the World’s greatest cities. I will admit that I still have much of the planet to see, but nothing in Europe or North America can compare.
What makes Sydney special? The city is built around an expansive harbor. There’s a definite charm in traveling almost everywhere by ferry.
The Opera House and Harbor Bridge gloriously welcome visitors to the city center. I was fortunate to see it right before dawn from the ship! (opening photo) I also took an architectural tour a few days later and saw the Sydney Symphony perform that evening. Childhood dream fulfilled!
The Opera House is covered with more than one million tiles!
Photo taken after the performance
The botanical garden is immense and adjacent to the city center. The grounds are impeccably maintained. I visited several times during my stay.
The National Gallery has something for everyone, with two buildings, one housing the modern collection.
You can take a ferry to the zoo at Taronga Point.
There are National Parks within the city limits. Yes, you can walk/hike to your heart’s content, and the views are stunning.
You can get from downtown to beautiful beaches in half an hour. Bondi and Manly are the most well-known. Be sure to take the scenic walk from Bondi to Tamarama Beach. I was fortunate to be there during the Sculpture by the Sea event!
The central business district is lively, clean, and feels safe.
Darling Harbor is modern, lively, and inviting.
You can easily hop on a train and arrive in the Blue Mountains in about two hours.
Incredible restaurants! I truly did not have one disappointing meal. Some recommendations: Sydney Café (Don’t let the name fool you. It is an elegant yet comfortable restaurant overlooking Sydney Harbor.) Yellow (Gourmet vegan that can’t be beat! I thoroughly enjoyed the seven-course meal. Even if you aren’t vegan, I strongly suggest you experience it!) Grana (Farm-to-table deliciousness in a lively and welcoming atmosphere.) Somehow, I don’t have any photos of all that delicious food. I guess I was too busy eating!
Bonus: Sydney is the place to go if you are gluten-free or Celiac. Every restaurant and café had options for me. I’m not sure if this is a good thing because I kept finding bakeries to try.
There are lots of little gems around the city if you keep your eyes open. Nutcote, the home of author May Gibbs, was a few blocks away from my accommodation. I happened to walk by just as a tour was beginning.
May had quite a view!
The views from the area around Watson’s Bay were my favorites.
I could go on and on as I have at least a thousand pictures of Sydney. If you’ve never been, I can’t recommend it highly enough!
November 28, 2024 If you have never been to New Zealand, you probably haven’t heard of Greymouth. It’s a small town on the west coast of the South Island with a history of gold mining, coal mining, forestry, and fishing. It’s also near the location where the Māori first arrived about a thousand years ago. If that doesn’t sound exciting enough, I’m about to convince you to visit.
First, it is the western destination of the Tranzalpine Scenic Railway, which departs from Christchurch. It is one of the most scenic train rides in the World! Some people make the return trip in one day, but I advise against it.
Why would you turn around in less than an hour, making for a very long day on the train, when there is so much to see and do in the area? I must admit that when I first arrived in Greymouth, I thought I may have made a mistake. Why had I booked three nights in this rather sad-looking town?
View of Greymouth from the King Domain hiking trail
I could see that they were trying to attract visitors, but it’s a bit of a work in progress. There are some nice-looking restaurants and shops as well as some beautiful murals in town, but many of the buildings could use some work.
I knew I would be walking and hiking. There were several possibilities, but I needed to book an excursion to see more of the surrounding area. You see, I had been traveling for over three months at this point and somehow neglected to make solid plans for Greymouth. Then I got lucky. My host had left a folder of things to do and see. I noticed that there was a locally run day tour up the coast and around several locations. When I went to book online. It looked like I may be the only one signed up for tomorrow’s tour. Would I be getting a call or email message to cancel?
The next morning, I met Jackie, my guide for the day. She greeted me enthusiastically and confirmed that I was her only guest for the day. She asked about my dietary needs (I’m celiac/gluten-free), and I informed her that I wasn’t much of a drinker. (A stop at a local brewery and distillery were part of the tour.) Not a problem! Jackie adapted the tour to suit me.
After a stop at a viewpoint, our first main stop was at Punakaiki for the National Park Visitors Center and Pancake Rock and Blowholes. During our walk through the Pancake Rocks and Blowholes, Jackie shared her knowledge of plants and birds. I learned all about the Kea, and we saw the Weka close-up.
The walk was incredible; one of the most beautiful coastal areas I’ve ever seen! The water was relatively calm, so the blowholes weren’t very active. I wasn’t complaining about the lack of wind, though. The Visitor’s Center was new and sparkling, with a newly opened Ponamu Pathways experience. These interactive experiences were created in cooperation with Weta World, the folks who made the Lord of the Rings movies.
After that, we made our way to Tauranga Bay to see the stunning beach and seal colony. The first of this year’s new pups had just been born and were making some noise down below. Jackie had names for the male seals and told me many more females would arrive soon to give birth.
The next stop was lunch—yes! I have yet to eat a bad meal, and PR’s Cafe didn’t disappoint. I had pumpkin-orange soup and bread. It truly hit the spot.
From there, we drove through Buller Gorge, essentially running between two national parks.
We stopped in Reefton to see the site where community members are recreating the country’s first power plant. (Yes, little Reefton on the sparsely populated West Coast was the site of New Zealand’s first power plant.) When complete, it will power the streetlights in town. The walk included a river crossing on an old-style swing bridge.
Reefton is a recreational hub with oodles of hiking trails near town. Our last main stop was the Brunner Mine site. Sadly, it is the site of New Zealand’s biggest mining tragedy, where 65 men lost their lives in an explosion back in 1896. The mining operation was shut down and the land was left to regenerate to its natural state.
She was knowledgeable and remained enthusiastic throughout the day. I could tell she loves her job. I hope I’ve convinced you to visit Greymouth and the West Coast. Say hello to Jackie for me!
I recently spent three weeks in Scandinavia. It was a sampler trip, my first visit to explore the region. I have to say, I loved it! Beautiful scenery, water, islands, and history-filled cities—my kind of stuff. My time included a cruise from Copenhagen up the Norwegian coast and through the Geiranger Fjord. The scenery was stunning, and the town of Geiranger was charming. I also visited Oslo and Copenhagen.
But the highlight of my visit was Gothenburg, Sweden. I chose it over Stockholm, partly because it was in a more accessible location and partly because it was smaller. Gothenburg is one of those “just right” European cities. It’s not too big, but there’s plenty to see and do. It’s mostly walkable, and you can also get around using the charming trams throughout the city. I arrived from Copenhagen by train. Just steps away, I found the tram station, hopped on, and rode to my accommodation for the next few nights.
It was a change from the studio apartments I typically rent. I had a private room and bathroom, but the building had a shared kitchen. I figured it must have been student housing before the large, modern dorms were built.
My corner room had a high cozy factor; the bed was amazingly comfortable, and look at that cute vintage-style refrigerator! I didn’t mind walking down one flight of stairs to use the kitchen since the room had a full tea and coffee service.
The brick building was charming, with well-kept grounds. I had a corner room with views in two directions.
Gothenburg’s city center is walkable and has everything you could want. The public market is upscale, with shops and restaurants. Gluten-free people like myself will be happy to find several baked good options at Steinbrenner & Nyberg. A walk through the historic Haga neighborhood is a must. There are cute shops selling Swedish products and cafés everywhere. Again, I found some yummy gluten-free treats at Café Husaren and enjoyed a gluten-free and vegan lunch at En Deli Haga.
If you love public gardens like I do, you’ll love Gothenburg. Tradgardsforeningen, or The Garden Society, is near the heart of the city. One thing I love is that it was created in the 1800s by the citizens (which also makes it one of the oldest public gardens in Europe). They sold memberships to create beautiful grounds for all to enjoy. I also visited the garden café and had an exquisite salmon lunch.
The Botanical Garden is a short distance from the city center, but you can easily reach it by tram. It is expansive, and you will get your steps in for the day. If you visit, take the short hike up to the viewpoint. You could spend a good part of a day wandering the grounds. It is one of the most exquisite botanical gardens I have ever visited.
You won’t pay an admission fee for either garden, but you can leave a donation. In addition to the gardens, you will find numerous parks throughout the city, some with fantastic viewpoints. My favorite was Skansen Kronan, where you will see a historic fortress and enjoy a nice view of the city.
Then, there’s Slottsskogen, the massive park at the edge of the city near the Botanical Garden.
One day, I took tram #11 to the end of the line to catch a passenger ferry to Styrso Island. The islands in the archipelago generally don’t have cars. Most people get around on bicycles and golf carts. I enjoyed a wander around the island. If I were to return, I would definitely spend more time on the islands.
Another highlight was the newly constructed World of Volvo. I’m not generally a car museum person, but my family has a particular affinity for them. If you’re into architecture, it’s worth a visit to step inside the gorgeous five-story structure. The museum is on the third floor, but be sure to wander around the rest of the building. It is truly an architectural marvel!
Volvo’s 1976 electric car!
Amusement park fans will find Liseberg just a couple of blocks from the World of Volvo. It’s not my thing, but the hundred-year-old park is a favorite destination for many. So, I say, let everyone else visit Oslo and Copenhagen, and we’ll keep Gothenburg our little secret.
I’ve spent the past three weeks in the Cyclades, a circle of Greek islands south of Athens. My original plans did not include Sifnos, but sometimes, Greek ferry schedules cause itinerary changes. I could not go directly from Serifos to Naxos, but I could get a ferry to Sifnos and travel to Naxos from there. Rather than just stopping on Sifnos, I decided to book two nights and cut short my stay on Naxos.
So glad I did! Sifnos is a day hiker’s dream. From the moment I arrived, I knew that I would want to stay longer. I had just spent a week at a yoga and meditation retreat on Serifos, and one of my fellow participants was on the ferry with me. She had plans to meet a friend who was arriving later in the day, so we stopped at the tourist information office before getting lunch. The gentleman working there was cordial and helpful. I immediately spotted the hiking trail map and knew I needed no further information. He showed us some of the most popular sights on the island. My new friend had some questions, so I excused myself and checked in at the office where I would get my apartment key. They said I’d be able to check in by 2:00 PM, so I went back to the tourist office to find my friend.
She and I enjoyed a lunch of Greek salad and chickpea soup. The soup is an island specialty; you must try it if you visit! Then she was off to explore the ceramics shops, and I went to get settled in my new place. There wasn’t time for a hike that afternoon. Well, I could have hiked, but I wanted to rest. And the beach was calling me out for an afternoon swim! I had my plan set for the morning, though. At 7:15, I took the first bus of the day up to Apollonia. Upon arrival, I spotted the display just for hikers. I was pretty excited, my kind of island! I took the #3 trail through town and onto an ancient path. It was well-marked most of the way.
I stopped at the Panagia Vrsis Monastery. No one was around except for a dog, barking on my arrival.
I noticed the ancient door was open a crack and walked in. Still, I saw no one. A little eerie but quite beautiful. I took a quick tour and got back on my route.
I eventually arrived in Platis Yialos on the beach. I took a snack break at a little park where a local man was getting his workout. I had to contain my giggles as he grunted his way through. Then, he broke out in song. Quite entertaining! I continued walking up the beach road toward Chrisopigi Monastery. Its location on a rock in the Aegean is one of the island’s highlights.
Around the bend from the monastery lies an inviting beach. It was nearly noon, and I stopped at the beachside taverna for something to eat. Yes! The chickpea soup was on the menu. This version was more like stew and made good fuel to continue the journey. It came with a quarter of a lemon. I have to say, the flavor is magical. (Sorry, I deleted the soup photo!)
I didn’t walk much further, though. I took the #2 trail along the beach and up to another little church before heading to Faros. At that point, I would have had to put in some significant distance to get to a bus stop. I opted for a taxi back to Kamares instead.
My driver was entertaining, playing Greek music for me. We took a side trip to Apollonia so he could pick up some luggage to bring to the ferry port. He pointed me to the local sweets shop to get a treat while he got the suitcases. I had already decided to return, but he confirmed that I must see more of the island someday. I returned to my little apartment in time for an evening swim before dinner. Such a lovely beach! Even though I only spent one day hiking on Sifnos, I’m grateful for the experience. When I return, I will stay in Apollonia, as I can start several different hikes from there.
When planning extended trips abroad, I make a somewhat detailed plan and reserve accommodations a few months ahead of time. But I have learned to make reservations that can be canceled because plans change.
A couple of weeks ago, I made such a change. I decided to leave the island of Kos early and head to mainland Greece before a week-long retreat. I won’t go into detail about why I left Kos early—Kos has a lot to offer, and I recommend a visit.
A friend of mine raves about Meteora and was perhaps a little disappointed that I hadn’t planned to go there on my second Greek adventure. Well, change of plans; time to see Meteora!
If you’ve never been or never seen pictures, Meteora is out-of-this world! Dating back at least 1000 years, religious folks have been inclined to dwell there. Hermits have lived in the caves on the towering rocks, and Greek Orthodox monks have built beautiful monasteries on top of the rocks. At one time, there were 24 monasteries. There are now only 6 active monasteries remaining.
Fair warning: even if you take a tour bus, you need to be ready to walk some slopes and climb some stairs. St. Stephens is the only one with easy access.
I stayed in Kalabaka with the intention of hiking to the monasteries. I ended up cheating a bit but was very happy with my experience.
First, I got lucky with a last-minute booking. If you know me, you know that I mostly stay in studio apartments so I can cook my own food. With Celiac disease, it’s easier, and I save time and money. I then have the freedom to eat out when I choose.
My apartment was quite spacious with a view of St. Stephens, one of the two nunneries. The long balcony was shaded all afternoon, allowing me the perfect place to rest.
Hiking Day One
I started from my apartment at about 8:00 AM and took the trail up to Holy Trinity Monastery. It’s a pleasant path, shady most of the way, which is helpful as you gain altitude.
On my way up, I encountered first an older Greek man and then a younger Greek man, both on their way down. Then a young American man passed me going up. I told him that I was preserving my energy for the day, and he said, “You look great!” Nice to get some motivation from a stranger.
When you get to the top of the trail, there are still over 100 stairs to conquer before reaching the monastery. Even though the sign said that it opened at 10:00, a few of us were entering before 9:30.
Holy Trinity is probably the most photographed of Meteora’s monasteries. It sits rather perfectly on top of its rock. (I took this photo the next day from a different angle.)
In the garden area, I saw the young American man again. We sat and conversed for about half an hour. It was a much-needed break. He said he was heading to St. Stephens next. I didn’t walk with him but had the same plan.
So, down the stairs and up the long, paved walkway I went. I saw a path to the right and figured it was a way to avoid walking the road. Thankfully, it was, and I reached St. Stephens about 40 minutes later.
By then, the tour buses had arrived. I was grateful to have had the quiet, uncrowded experience at Holy Trinity. I briefly encountered the young American man and exchanged a few words.
Even though it was crowded, St. Stephens is beautiful, and all the monasteries have wonderful views. St. Stephens also had an interesting gift shop that included some items made by the nuns. I asked questions about the products, and the nun seemed pleased by my interest. The St. John’s Wort oil that I bought does seem to work well for massaging sore muscles!
I started walking toward the other monasteries and realized that I needed to save some energy for the next two days. I ended up taking the trail back to town and my apartment.
Hiking Day Two
I decided to walk through the smaller town, Kastraki, to reach some of the other monasteries. As I walked through, I decided that if I returned, I would stay in Kastraki. It’s smaller than Kalabaka and has a calmer vibe. The homes are well-kept, and there are oodles of flowers.
I got distracted by some ruins of a monastery on the side of a rock and decided to take that smaller, less-traveled road. Looking at Google Maps, I figured I could take a trail to cut back through. I was ready for an adventure anyway.
I ended up visiting a monastery that was out in the country and not built on top of a rock. The monk was very welcoming, and I had a unique experience where I sat down and chatted with him in limited English. He offered me cookies and coffee. I tried to explain my celiac disease, and at first, he thought I was diabetic. Google translator helped a bit! I was grateful for the experience as he said they only get a few visitors a day at most. (On Google Maps, the name of the monastery was only in Greek; so, I can’t add it here. Sorry.)
I then continued, trying to make a loop. I stopped at a tiny church that was locked. Bummer. A well-marked bike trail eventually got me back to a main road.
I survived with just one blister on my big toe. My best estimate is that I hiked about 12 miles.
By the time I arrived back at the apartment, I had about 90 minutes to eat, rest, and shower before my sunset tour. (It began at 3:45.) I got to see Saint Nicholas Monastery (more stairs to climb) and saw the exterior of the other monasteries. The sunset wasn’t exactly spectacular, but our bus driver and tour guide were! It was a minibus with only 18 passengers, so we had a personalized experience. We also saw some things that I wouldn’t have been looking for on my own.
St. Nicholas from the parking area
Views from St. Nicholas
11th Century Byzantine church in Kalapaka
Abandoned monastery
Hiking Day Three
I figured out a plan to go for a walk while preserving my blistered toe and visit the last must-see monastery on my list.
I took a taxi up to Roussanou, the other nunnery, and wore my sneakers instead of my hikers. As predicted, Roussanou was the prettiest of all. The garden was stunning, and the grounds were well-kept. Inside the church, people were lighting candles and praying. It was a beautiful experience.
Looking back up at Roussanou as I walked down the road
After the visit, I walked down the winding hill at a leisurely pace. I stopped to take photos that you’d never get from a tour bus and took a nice break in the old town section of Kastraki.
My plan worked out well, and my feet were thankful for the shorter itinerary.
I saw several bicyclists making their way uphill and ran into two Spanish men my age toward the end of my walk. They were excited that I spoke Spanish, and I helped them in the right direction. They were getting started in the heat of the day; it was 11:40 by then. I was glad to be headed back.
As I reached Kalabaka, I stopped at the Digital Projection Center to watch the 3D films. One was about Mt. Olympus and the other two were about Meteora. Well worth the three-euro admission. The tour guide from last night had recommended it.
After yesterday’s long day of walking, I felt like I needed to catch up on eating. I stopped at Taverna Yamas for some fresh and tasty food. I had shrimp swimming in olive oil and tomato sauce topped with feta, and grilled mushrooms with balsamic. Both were delicious. I was so busy eating; I didn’t even share any shrimp with the cat who was patiently waiting.
For me, Meteora was an amazing place that everyone should see if they can. We’re talking bucket list like the Grand Canyon or Machu Picchu. I would happily go back to experience it again. I hope you see it someday, too!
I recently spent two nights in Delphi and wish I had stayed longer. The archeological site is incredible! I mean, we’re talking about the center of the ancient world. The archeological museum is small but top-notch, with some beautiful and very old statues dating to the 5th and 6th centuries BC. (You’ll pay one admission fee for the archeological site and museum. I believe it was 12 euros.)
Since I was staying in town, I was able to arrive at the site when it opened at 8:00. There were only about four other people at the site with me from 8:00-9:00.
But I encourage you to explore the town of Delphi, too. It’s a charming village built on the mountainside. Its six horizontal streets are connected by several staircases, all unique and charming in their own ways. The views of the mountains and the Sea of Corinth in the distance are captivating! And, down on the valley floor is Greece’s largest olive grove. (We’ll come back to that later.)
Delphi is known as a foodie town, too. My limited gluten-free, low-meat diet doesn’t allow me to try everything, but each dish I tasted was delicious. I highly recommend Taverna Vakhos. Their menu is carefully marked with gluten-free, vegan, and allergen symbols. I ordered an appetizer of potatoes with oyster mushrooms in a turmeric sauce. It may not sound that interesting, but it was incredible. My main entrée was artichokes with lemon sauce. The menu said it was accompanied by other vegetables, peas, and (oops!) more potatoes. The portions were enormous; fortunately, my room had a small refrigerator. At Taverna Gargadoyas, I had a late evening bite of giant beans. The owner said they were his favorite, and his 84-year-old mama still makes them. Even if that isn’t true, (who knows?) they were to die for. I had only ordered a serving of beans but was given a small plate of cherries for dessert. In fact, at every restaurant in Delphi, I was served a dessert on the house.
I was impressed with the generosity and kindness of all the restaurant staff. As a solo traveler, I’ve previously had not-so-great experiences: being ignored, being seated at the bar…not in Delphi. I was an honored guest at each restaurant. On my second full day, I walked the ancient path from Delphi to Kirra. The idea of walking through Greece’s largest olive grove intrigued me. I couldn’t resist the draw of the Gulf of Corinth either. Even though it’s mostly downhill, it’s still quite a trek, over 11 kilometers. Fortunately, a bus in Kirra will take you back up to Delphi.
This sweet dog sat in the shade and waited for the bus with me!
The owner of the pension where I was staying (Sun View Guesthouse: a bargain at 50 euros/night!) suggested that I also take the hike to the lookout above Delphi. Sadly, my time and energy were limited. Next trip!
Can you believe it? A view like that for 50 euros a night!
So, please, take at least a couple days to eat and walk through historic Delphi. Enjoy!
You probably think I’m a little strange. What do I mean by “stuck?”
Shouldn’t I have been happy to spend time in England’s greatest city?
I’ll back up a little to explain.
My last journey to Europe started on August 29th, and my first stop was England. I spent most of my time in Northeastern England and the Lakes District, which were fantastic. Then, I enjoyed a couple of days in London before heading to my next destination.
At the end of my trip, in mid-December, I had plans to visit York, England, for some Christmas shopping before heading back to the States.
Due to downed powerlines, my train, and many others, were canceled. It would only be a short trip (two nights), so staying in London was my only viable option. Therefore, I felt stuck.
I wasn’t enthusiastic about the idea for a couple of reasons: I’m generally not a big-city person, and London is expensive.
After the initial disappointment of the canceled train, I weighed my options. I remembered that I had a free night with Hilton. One phone call later, I was booked at the Waldorf for the night. Pretty cool!
I also got lucky and was able to cancel the hotel in York without penalty.
Things got better from there.
That evening, I was chatting with a couple at the hotel, and they gave me some ideas for my unexpected stay in London. They helped me locate a reasonably priced hotel for the next two nights and helped me organize an itinerary.
The next day had some magical moments.
I revisited the British Museum and enjoyed the luxury of seeing just the Greek and Roman rooms. It was also much less crowded than it had been in September.
I moved to my new hotel and had the good luck to catch a classic double-decker. There was even an older English gentleman on board who said, “These are the buses of my youth!”
He and I enjoyed delightful conversation until his stop.
I checked in with the concierge at the new hotel and shared my two-day plan with him. He gave his full approval and helped me book a ticket for a show on my final night.
The other highlight of the day was visiting Borough Market. It is one of the most incredible markets I’ve ever visited. I found out later that it is usually closed on Mondays, so I had the pleasure of visiting when it wasn’t crowded. I also picked up some great Christmas gifts and gluten-free goodies!
Lunch at the market was Chaat. Lots of interesting ingredients and gluten-free.
I found dinner on the cheap at a pub round the corner. Yes, it is possible to be on a budget in London. The two meals were around ten pounds each.
On my last day, I toured The Globe Theater and revisited Borough Market and the surrounding shops.
Once again, I found a good, inexpensive lunch by spotting a place called Farmer J. Lots of healthy and gluten-free options!
I then visited Leadenhall Market since it was on my way back to the hotel.
I decided to take an afternoon rest since I had a big night ahead. A little afternoon prosecco (compliments of the hotel) and a nap!
My final night splurge included dinner at Indigo, an all-gluten-free restaurant, and Tina! The dinner and the show were spectacular; I felt good about my bargain-priced last-minute seat, too.
So, in reality, I wasn’t stuck at all. It ended up being a better-than-expected end to my trip. And it wasn’t a big hit on my budget.
One month later, I truly am stuck. The weather has been so cold that one can’t stay outside for long, and I am dog-sitting. There’s nothing like playing chase around the kitchen island!
A few days ago, I had to do something I’d rather not do. But sometimes, plans change, especially when you live as a nomad.
I was supposed to fly from Tenerife to Seville on November 26th. I would enjoy an afternoon in one of my favorite Spanish cities before hopping on a midday train the next day to Mérida, a city that has been on my “must-visit” list for a few years.
But then a certain Irish discount airline messed up the works. They canceled my flight to Tenerife and delayed my return flight by one day. I was not too happy about the canceled flight. Rebooking with another airline was a bit pricey, and I had wanted to avoid a long travel day.
First, I had to check out of the resort where I had been staying and move to a place down the street. My resort was nearly booked, and I couldn’t bear to pay that much for one night.
Then, I didn’t sleep well on Sunday night. I rarely sleep well when I have a morning flight. I don’t know if I will ever overcome this.
There I was, wide awake at 3:00 AM when I could have slept until 6:15. And I didn’t get much of a breakfast because the restaurant wasn’t open yet.
At the airport, there was a short line to check my suitcase, so I had two hours to kill. At least the departure area was clean and relatively uncrowded.
The flight took off on time at 9:15 and landed on schedule at 12:35. I even caught a few winks on the plane. Not bad.
My train wasn’t leaving until 5:54, and I was looking forward to some time in Seville. I got an Uber to the train station, where I planned to deposit my suitcase in the luggage storage.
“We don’t have luggage storage here. We used to, but we don’t anymore. People ask for it all the time. There are a couple of private places nearby, though.”
Gee, thanks.
The first place I tried required measurements of my suitcase in centimeters. Then, I needed to download their app and get a special code for the self-service locker.
No chance! I’m not leaving my precious suitcase in a place that isn’t monitored by a human. And how would I know the measurements in centimeters, or even inches, for that matter?
I found another place and walked in that direction. That place must have gone out of business because it wasn’t there.
By this time, I was a bit frustrated, and I’m pretty darn stubborn. I would simply roll my beloved travel companion into downtown to a tapas bar I wanted to check out.
The tapas bar did not disappoint and was absolutely worth the walk. They specialized in gluten-free items, which made my heart sing. And it wasn’t just the typical Spanish tapas. This was gourmet stuff!
I noticed that the couple next to me appeared to be American, and she was gluten-free, too. At one point, we ended up chatting. They were on a two-week trip around Spain, culminating with their friend’s wedding near Madrid. I helped them plan their afternoon and thoroughly enjoyed the conversation.
After lunch, my suitcase and I rolled over to Las Setas. I had never seen this part of the city on my recent trips to Seville. (Las Setas is relatively new, completed in 2011. By the way, Las Setas means mushrooms in Spanish.)
In southern Spanish cities, where it gets unbearably hot much of the year, they find creative ways to make shade. This creation is the coolest (pun intended) I’ve seen yet!
On my stroll back to the train station, I stopped for a hot chocolate. The friendly bartender even gave me a discount. My day was getting better and better.
I noticed that my phone battery was low. So, I returned to the train station with ample time to charge it before getting on the train.
Satisfied with that, I stepped inside the bookstore at the station and noticed several titles in English. I picked up a good read for the three-hour-plus ride ahead. (Sometimes, you just want to feel the pages.)
The train left on time but arrived about a half hour late. It was closing in on 9:00 PM, and I was weary.
The Mérida train station was quiet. I had to call to get a taxi. So glad I speak Spanish.
The ride to my apartment was less than ten minutes. Ah…
But there was one problem: I was hungry! That tapas lunch was a long time ago, and I’m the kind of person who can’t sleep with a growling stomach.
I got online, and it looked like there was a decent grocery store not too far away—it was open until 9:30.
I walked through the dark, empty streets to see that the store had closed early.
Back online, I found another store that would be open until 10:00.
I arrived to find it was also closed.
On the route back to my apartment, I found a little convenience store. It would be popcorn, an avocado, and some turkey lunchmeat for dinner. At least I wouldn’t starve.
I had to believe the apartment had been empty for a few days because it was cold, colder than outside.
I finally got comfortable and fell asleep around 12:30.
I happily slept until 9:30 AM.
The next day, I loaded up on groceries including some of my favorite Spanish items. I would not go hungry for the rest of the week.
When you’re retired and living a nomadic life, it’s easy to forget which day it is.
I arrived in Lake Bled, Slovenia, at lunchtime on Saturday. If you’ve ever been here or seen pictures, you know it is an enchanting place. It’s easy to forget the day of the week when you’ve arrived in a fairy tale.
After getting off the bus, I rolled my suitcase down to the lake and caught the first glimpse of the castle. It was a warm autumn day, around 72 degrees. Check-in was at 3:00, so a nice open-air lunch was the answer.
Not only did I get a healthy and delicious salad, but it was the first place I had encountered in Slovenia with gluten-free beer on the menu. What could be more perfect? Celiac’s delight!
After walking down along the lake for fifteen minutes or so (not a exactly a fantasy with a suitcase in tow), I arrived at the apartment at precisely 2:59.
After getting settled, I walked to the nearby grocery store to pick up some items for dinner and breakfast. It was one of those barely stocked places. No eggs and very little in the way of quality produce. It would be a simple soup night. I figured I’d go out for breakfast.
Then, it was time to walk around the rest of the lake’s perimeter. From the apartment, the views of the little island with the church kept getting better and better. On top of that, church bells were ringing from two directions.
Eventually, I ascended to the castle and, to continue the fantasy, there was a wedding! (Sorry. I didn’t take pictures of the wedding.)
Forgetting that night was coming earlier and earlier, I stayed up at the castle grounds to watch the beginning of sunset. Ah…
When I woke up the next day, I thought I could get breakfast at one of the two restaurants nearby. Nope.
I went to the first place, and all that was offered were beverages. At least I could enjoy a nice cup of tea. Strange that a restaurant with a hotel attached did not serve breakfast. These things happen while traveling in the off season, though.
I checked over at the other restaurant. The owner and a friend were sitting down having a smoke and coffee. No, they weren’t serving breakfast, either. She suggested I walk into town for a nice breakfast at the bakery. That wouldn’t work for this gluten-free girl.
And all of the grocery stores were closed because it was Sunday.
Later, I ended up having a nice lunch of sausage and bean soup, and I splurged on a steak dinner that night.
Maybe forgetting about Sundays wasn’t such a bad thing.
Next Sunday, I will try to plan ahead. More likely, I will forget which day it is.
Wandering Shannon 