A Very Long Travel Day

November 30, 2023

A few days ago, I had to do something I’d rather not do. But sometimes, plans change, especially when you live as a nomad.

I was supposed to fly from Tenerife to Seville on November 26th. I would enjoy an afternoon in one of my favorite Spanish cities before hopping on a midday train the next day to Mérida, a city that has been on my “must-visit” list for a few years.

But then a certain Irish discount airline messed up the works. They canceled my flight to Tenerife and delayed my return flight by one day. I was not too happy about the canceled flight. Rebooking with another airline was a bit pricey, and I had wanted to avoid a long travel day.

First, I had to check out of the resort where I had been staying and move to a place down the street. My resort was nearly booked, and I couldn’t bear to pay that much for one night.

Then, I didn’t sleep well on Sunday night. I rarely sleep well when I have a morning flight. I don’t know if I will ever overcome this.

There I was, wide awake at 3:00 AM when I could have slept until 6:15. And I didn’t get much of a breakfast because the restaurant wasn’t open yet.

At the airport, there was a short line to check my suitcase, so I had two hours to kill. At least the departure area was clean and relatively uncrowded.

The flight took off on time at 9:15 and landed on schedule at 12:35. I even caught a few winks on the plane. Not bad.

My train wasn’t leaving until 5:54, and I was looking forward to some time in Seville. I got an Uber to the train station, where I planned to deposit my suitcase in the luggage storage.

“We don’t have luggage storage here. We used to, but we don’t anymore. People ask for it all the time. There are a couple of private places nearby, though.”

Gee, thanks.

The first place I tried required measurements of my suitcase in centimeters. Then, I needed to download their app and get a special code for the self-service locker.

No chance! I’m not leaving my precious suitcase in a place that isn’t monitored by a human. And how would I know the measurements in centimeters, or even inches, for that matter?

I found another place and walked in that direction. That place must have gone out of business because it wasn’t there.

By this time, I was a bit frustrated, and I’m pretty darn stubborn. I would simply roll my beloved travel companion into downtown to a tapas bar I wanted to check out.

The tapas bar did not disappoint and was absolutely worth the walk. They specialized in gluten-free items, which made my heart sing. And it wasn’t just the typical Spanish tapas. This was gourmet stuff!

I noticed that the couple next to me appeared to be American, and she was gluten-free, too. At one point, we ended up chatting. They were on a two-week trip around Spain, culminating with their friend’s wedding near Madrid. I helped them plan their afternoon and thoroughly enjoyed the conversation.

After lunch, my suitcase and I rolled over to Las Setas. I had never seen this part of the city on my recent trips to Seville. (Las Setas is relatively new, completed in 2011. By the way, Las Setas means mushrooms in Spanish.)

In southern Spanish cities, where it gets unbearably hot much of the year, they find creative ways to make shade. This creation is the coolest (pun intended) I’ve seen yet!

On my stroll back to the train station, I stopped for a hot chocolate. The friendly bartender even gave me a discount. My day was getting better and better.

I noticed that my phone battery was low. So, I returned to the train station with ample time to charge it before getting on the train.

Satisfied with that, I stepped inside the bookstore at the station and noticed several titles in English. I picked up a good read for the three-hour-plus ride ahead. (Sometimes, you just want to feel the pages.)

The train left on time but arrived about a half hour late. It was closing in on 9:00 PM, and I was weary.

The Mérida train station was quiet. I had to call to get a taxi. So glad I speak Spanish.

The ride to my apartment was less than ten minutes. Ah…

But there was one problem: I was hungry! That tapas lunch was a long time ago, and I’m the kind of person who can’t sleep with a growling stomach.

I got online, and it looked like there was a decent grocery store not too far away—it was open until 9:30.

I walked through the dark, empty streets to see that the store had closed early.

Back online, I found another store that would be open until 10:00.

I arrived to find it was also closed.

On the route back to my apartment, I found a little convenience store. It would be popcorn, an avocado, and some turkey lunchmeat for dinner. At least I wouldn’t starve.

I had to believe the apartment had been empty for a few days because it was cold, colder than outside.

I finally got comfortable and fell asleep around 12:30.

I happily slept until 9:30 AM.

The next day, I loaded up on groceries including some of my favorite Spanish items. I would not go hungry for the rest of the week.

When Will I Learn About Sundays?

October 9, 2023

When you’re retired and living a nomadic life, it’s easy to forget which day it is.

I arrived in Lake Bled, Slovenia, at lunchtime on Saturday. If you’ve ever been here or seen pictures, you know it is an enchanting place. It’s easy to forget the day of the week when you’ve arrived in a fairy tale.

After getting off the bus, I rolled my suitcase down to the lake and caught the first glimpse of the castle. It was a warm autumn day, around 72 degrees. Check-in was at 3:00, so a nice open-air lunch was the answer.

Not only did I get a healthy and delicious salad, but it was the first place I had encountered in Slovenia with gluten-free beer on the menu. What could be more perfect? Celiac’s delight!

After walking down along the lake for fifteen minutes or so (not a exactly a fantasy with a suitcase in tow), I arrived at the apartment at precisely 2:59.

After getting settled, I walked to the nearby grocery store to pick up some items for dinner and breakfast. It was one of those barely stocked places. No eggs and very little in the way of quality produce. It would be a simple soup night. I figured I’d go out for breakfast.

Then, it was time to walk around the rest of the lake’s perimeter. From the apartment, the views of the little island with the church kept getting better and better. On top of that, church bells were ringing from two directions.

Eventually, I ascended to the castle and, to continue the fantasy, there was a wedding! (Sorry. I didn’t take pictures of the wedding.)

Forgetting that night was coming earlier and earlier, I stayed up at the castle grounds to watch the beginning of sunset. Ah…

When I woke up the next day, I thought I could get breakfast at one of the two restaurants nearby. Nope.

I went to the first place, and all that was offered were beverages. At least I could enjoy a nice cup of tea. Strange that a restaurant with a hotel attached did not serve breakfast. These things happen while traveling in the off season, though.

I checked over at the other restaurant. The owner and a friend were sitting down having a smoke and coffee. No, they weren’t serving breakfast, either. She suggested I walk into town for a nice breakfast at the bakery. That wouldn’t work for this gluten-free girl.

And all of the grocery stores were closed because it was Sunday.

Later, I ended up having a nice lunch of sausage and bean soup, and I splurged on a steak dinner that night.

Maybe forgetting about Sundays wasn’t such a bad thing.

Next Sunday, I will try to plan ahead. More likely, I will forget which day it is.

Sleeping in a Castle


September 2, 2023

One of the joys of a nomadic lifestyle is checking off the bucket list.
Okay, so sleeping in a castle wasn’t exactly on my bucket list. Still, I have always wanted to stay in a historic building. And this was yet another experience that was better than expected.

The not-so-secret entrance to the castle dorm rooms!


You can reserve a room in Durham Castle in northeastern England during the summer when the university students are on break. You see, part of the castle has been converted into dorm rooms while other sections are open for tours during limited hours.


The rooms are nothing special, but you can get one with a private bath. Mine was on the tiny side, but that was fine with me. I also had to climb four and a half flights of stairs to get to the room, but that was okay, too.


Besides staying in a castle, overnight guests enjoy breakfast in the Grand Hall. This could also fulfill a bucket list item if you are a Harry Potter fan, as the hall has that feel. Just imagine the grand events that have been hosted here! The offerings are extensive, with everything you could want for breakfast, and a kind staff member ordered gluten-free croissants for me every morning. (If you are gluten-free, ask!)


Beyond the Castle, you will find that you are ideally situated in Durham’s quaint, historic city. Across the Palace Green is the Cathedral.

Down the hill are the historic town and market plaza.


The River Wear snakes its way around the city.

You can walk less than a mile to Crook Hall Gardens.


I highly recommend at least a couple of nights in Durham if you are planning a visit to northeastern England!

There Are No Busses on Sundays


September 24, 2023
Sometimes, the best days happen when things don’t go according to plan.
I have been traveling in Croatia with old friends, a married couple, for the past nine days. We are a compatible trio, all three active, outdoorsy types. In fact, it was during a cross-country ski and snowshoe trip last winter that we decided to plan an adventure together.
I was ecstatic when Nancy offered to help with the planning because, in my nomad life, I am constantly working on my itinerary.
We met up at the Dubrovnik airport just over a week ago, and the trip has gone exceptionally well until…


Yesterday afternoon, before we left Mljet Island, the rain came in with a vengeance. We had been enduring some feisty winds, but rain can really put a damper on the fun.
After trying to remain dry, we boarded the ferry for a 30-minute ride to Korcula. Our host generously offered to pick us up, and the rain had momentarily stopped when we arrived.
Then the thunder and lightning returned yesterday evening. So much for our plans to paddle board tomorrow.
Our power went out around 3:00 AM and didn’t come on until about 10:00 AM.
Our host felt terrible about the weather and the power outage. This morning, he brought us some candy and a bottle of wine as a consolation. (As if he could control the weather.) He also realized that a close lightning strike had blown out our modem and had a new one ready for us when we returned this evening. Such a nice man!


After a brief break early this morning, the thunder, lightning, and rain continued until about 11:00 AM.

Then the skies started to look hopeful.

We did have a couple of other issues, though.
Last night, we discovered that no public buses were running on Sundays.
Today, no Uber drivers responded to our request.
No problem. We are walkers. We could easily cover the three miles into town.


The weather was much more promising by noon, and we walked out the door.
Along the way, we stopped to inspect local plant life, saw a monument to World War I soldiers from the island, and visited a Marian shrine.


We ended up having a fabulous time exploring the old city of Korcula. It is a picture-perfect medieval town located on the beautiful Adriatic waters. The rain had cleared the air, making for an exceptional day.
After searching for the right restaurant to cater to my gluten-free diet, we enjoyed a scrumptious lunch by the old city gate. I had eggs benedict for the first time in many years, and we all enjoyed chocolate mousse cake with pistachios for dessert.


After lunch, we wandered through town and climbed the church tower for the best views of the day.


Then we walked along the waterfront, checking out the different buildings, sections of the old city walls, and the luxurious modern yachts in the harbor.


After stopping for groceries, we took the backroads home and saw things most tourists miss.


The 101 stone steps up to the Votive Chapel of Saint Anthony.


The cypress trees were planted in 1708 after the chapel was renovated (originally built in the 15th century).
The last leg of the journey back to our apartment took us through rural areas bound by stone walls with abundant olive trees.


What looked like a potential disaster of a day ended up being one of my best travel days yet!

Travel Days and Me Time

April 7, 2023

Yesterday was a travel day with some fun mixed in.
I left my cousin’s place in the morning. Well, we actually went together, each taking our own car. The first stop was a bakery in Hamilton, Montana, that offered several gluten-free items. (River Rising—I highly recommend it if you are in the Bitterroot Valley!)
We then traveled south to Lost Trail Pass and the Chief Joseph Nordic Ski area. The trail grooming ended last weekend, and about two feet of snow fell after. So, there was plenty of snow, but those sweet smooth tracks were lacking. It was a bit of work, but the glorious sunny day made it worth the effort.


We got four challenging miles in, and both felt satisfied with the workout.
Sadly, it was time to say goodbye to my cousin, but we had new memories to share from our visit.
I then took off on my own, heading south as she headed north to go home.
My favorite part of traveling is hitting a new road for the first time. The drive south along Highway 93 was snowy and scenic. Then I took a left turn at the town of Salmon to head southeast to Idaho Falls.
Chunks of snow lay along the sides of the Salmon River as the spring thaw was in full force. Looking back this morning, I wish I had stopped for more pictures. It was a long day of travel, and I had one more pass to conquer.

Snow melting along the Salmon River


The road was mostly clear and dry until I reached a section where the wind picked up, and the snow was blowing across the highway. In the distance, the soft snow-covered peaks continued as I drove.
I finally arrived in Idaho Falls around 5:00 PM. I was starving and more than ready for a shower.
I splurged and ordered an Uber Eats delivery which ended in disaster. My enchiladas arrived wrapped in flour tortillas, and the rice and beans were lacking. The kind young man at the front desk had received the order for me, so I was not able to check the order myself.
This starving gluten-free girl had to find somewhere else to eat.
I got online and found another Mexican place about a mile away. Don Alberto served up massive quantities at reasonable prices. I had enough left over for lunch today.

Don Alberto in Idaho Falls. The two carnitas tacos were enough for dinner!


All’s well that ends well. I caught up with a good friend and enjoyed a little reading and TV time. (Silly as it may seem, I am a nomad who loves HGTV.)
Last night was my first alone in a hotel since leaving “home” almost two weeks ago. Don’t get me wrong—I love visiting friends and family—but it is nice to have my own space.
Now I will be on my own for about three weeks, and I will be trying out some more extended stays. Travel is my life, so I plan to slow down a bit.
I will arrive in Park City, Utah, for a week-long stay tonight. I hope to catch the last of the spring snow and get out for more cross-country skiing. I’m also due for some pampering time—a pedicure and a haircut are in order. Maybe a massage.
Here’s to some Me Time!

Adventures in Croatia

November 26-December 6, 2022

Croatia has been on my bucket list for about 40 years. Why did it take me so long to get there? It could be my obsession with Spain. For me, a trip to Europe means time in Spain.

The good news is that I finally got there. I didn’t see as much as I would have liked, but I will return in 2023 for further exploration.

Rijeka: We arrived by bus from Trieste, Italy. The ride took us through a little bit of Slovenia and then through passport control at the border of Croatia. I was getting close to my 90 days in the Schengen Zone, so I was relieved to get my passport stamped. (Croatia fully joined the EU and became a Schengen Zone country on January 1, 2023. They also switched their currency from the Kuna to the Euro.)

We arrived in Rijeka, and my friend, who had joined me for the final three weeks of my trip, was a bit disappointed. Rijeka lacked the sparkle of towns like Trieste and Venice. I was not surprised because I saw Croatia as an up-and-coming country.

Our Lady of Lourdes is the prettiest building near the bus station in Rijeka.

Rijeka did not disappoint. A block or so away, we encountered the city’s main pedestrian street. It was indeed sparkling with Christmas decorations and lights. The Christmas market stands and pop-up bars were bustling with people. It was delightful!

The gigantic Christmas tree on the main pedestrian street of Rijeka
Christmas market stand in Rijeka

Our apartment up the hill was spacious and comfortable. It had two bedrooms, thoughtfully decorated. We were each ready for some space, so it was a nice break.

Our beautiful Rijeka apartment!

Every evening of our stay, I made a final trip down to the pedestrian street to take in the lights and festive atmosphere. I found Rijeka surprisingly charming.

A festive plaza where we drank warm beverages and listened to Christmas carols
An evening walk in Rijeka
This canal is near one end of Rijeka’s pedestrian zone.
Labyrinth Park, Rijeka
Cute statue in the park below our Rijeka apartment
Even the Castle of Rijeka was decorated for Christmas
View from Rijeka’s castle

Inside St. Mary of the Assumption Chruch
The Shrine of Our Lady of Trsat, Rijeka
Roman Ruins in Rijeka

Rab Island: Three days later, we took a ferry from Rijeka to Rab Island. I had done some research and felt there would still be some things to do and see even though we were well into the off-season.

We arrived after dark but had a short walk to our apartment. As we walked through the arch of the old city wall, we found ourselves in a park decorated for Christmas. Talk about enchanting! We kept gawking as we slowly walked, and our hostess awaited our arrival.

Arrival on Rab Island
Tree in the plaza next to our apartment on Rab Island

Our apartment was in a building that was a former palace. The apartment itself wasn’t anything special, but the location was perfect! We had a view of the harbor and were strategically located in the old city. At about $65. per night, it was a bargain.

The next day, as we walked, we learned that the old city was a pedestrian zone. And it was the end of November, so few tourists were around. The Christmas decorations were plentiful, and there was a cute ice-skating rink. Some signs said, “The most beautiful Advent in the Adriatic.”

Rab Island’s Promenade: The funds to build the promenade were a gift from the Prince of Lichtenstein because he was “captivated by the beauty” of the island.

Historical sights are plentiful within the old town, including several churches and Roman ruins.

Roman Ruins on Rab Island

Zagreb: We finished the adventure in Croatia’s capital city.

We returned to Rijeka by ferry and had about three hours to kill. That made for another stop at the gluten-free bakery and a refill of dried fruits and nuts at one of the market stands.

My favorite market stand in Rijeka
A final visit to my favorite gluten-free bakery in Rijeka. Yes, I ordered two things!

We boarded our bus and arrived in Zagreb about three hours later.

This time I could have done better with the apartment. The apartment was okay but far from the historic center. No problem. The bus stop was close. (If I were to revisit Zagreb, I would book something closer in, though.)

By the time we got settled, darkness was falling, but it was still early. My friend was leery of heading into the city after dark. I then reminded her that I had walked around alone a couple of evenings in Rijeka. I convinced her that we would stay in the touristy areas.

Zagreb’s massive ice rink

It was early December, and the city was decked out for Advent. Our evening walk took us by the biggest ice rink I had ever seen and through a couple of Christmas markets.

Cute decorations in a Zagreb Christmas market

The “markets” in Croatia are quite different from those in Spain. In Madrid, there is an abundance of stands selling artisan goods. In Croatia, the focus was on stands selling food and drink. In fact, many were pop-up bars. We did, however, find some lovely goods to take home as gifts.

The next day, we boarded the Hop-on, Hop-off bus to take into the city. One could spend a week in Zagreb and still not see all the museums. Sadly, some of the museums were closed for renovations as the city is still recovering from the 2020 earthquake.

While on the bus, we noticed the lights were on in the National Theater. I had looked online to buy tickets for the Nutcracker, but it was sold out. We decided to go in to see if they had any last-minute tickets.

The National Theater of Zagreb

We were in luck. Box seats. And not just box seats, but the best seats in the house! We were so very grateful to have such good fortune.

Our fabulous box seats at the National Theater

The rest of our time in Zagreb was delightful. It was chilly and a bit rainy, but that didn’t keep us from enjoying the city. It also gave me an excuse to drink hot chocolate and tea. There was a delightful gluten-free bakery, too.

Tea time in Zagreb
The World’s shortest funicular connects the upper and lower towns of Zagreb.
View of the Cathedral in the distance from one of the Christmas markets in Zagreb

Since I was at the end of my extended trip, I shopped for some gifts, including lots of chocolate and a big box of tea, and maxed out my suitcase before heading home.

My next European adventure will start in Croatia. I can’t wait to return!

True Confession

November 23, 2022

I don’t love Italy. I know, people rave about Italy. Okay, there are some beautiful places to see, but I have to believe those fans of Italy have never been to Spain or Portugal. I know I’m biased, but who isn’t? And this is about my experiences, so here goes…


I passed through Italy in the 1980s while doing the college kid-backpack-Eurail Pass thing. My friend and I were traveling from December through early February, so we were looking for warm weather after spending some time in France. (Christmas in Paris was amazing!)


We first passed through Italy on our way to Greece, taking a ferry from southern Italy. Didn’t really see much of Italy except what had passed by the train windows.


Then we made a point of stopping in Rome on the way back from Greece. The great snowstorm of the century hit Rome the day we arrived; On top of that, my friend had acquired a cold through our travels. She was absolutely miserable! I remember leaving our crappy little hotel room to find her some soup. Sadly, we didn’t get to see any of the sights. The city had shut down.


About 14 years ago, I traveled to Italy with my then-husband and two kids. We had a fabulous trip! We spent four days covering as much of Rome as possible by foot. We splurged on a private tour of the Vatican. We stayed at an Airbnb that had a view of the Pantheon. Then we drove along the Amalfi Coast and spent a day in Pompeii. It was a short but sweet sampling of Italy.


Eating was problematic with my celiac disease, but everything else made up for that.

The Tuscan countryside is gorgeous, no doubt about that.


On my current journey, I had the opportunity to rent a one-bedroom condo in Tuscany for a great price. Everyone raves about Tuscany. How could I pass up the opportunity to finally see it? A friend who had been to Tuscany before offered to drive. Great! I absolutely, positively will not drive in Italy.


We made the most of our six days in Tuscany. The scenery was picture-perfect. The hilltop towns are enchanting despite the sometimes-treacherous narrow roads one must drive to get to and from them. I completely understand why people love it.
What I didn’t like was that I felt everyone was after my pocketbook. Prices were high compared to Spain and Portugal. Gluten-free restaurant food was challenging to find. And I swear we sometimes paid the “tourist price.”
Most Italian restaurants add a service charge of anywhere from one Euro to 3.50 per person. You’re basically paying for your utensils and bread, and it doesn’t matter if you don’t eat the bread.


Then it got worse: Venice. Okay, Venice is unique and full of beautiful buildings. It’s delightful to watch the gondolas making their way through the canals. But do you know how much a gondola ride costs? Eighty Euros for thirty minutes! Yes, that is for up to five people in a boat, but thirty minutes? That’s it? No thanks. I can live without ever riding in a gondola.

Seeing the gondolas was good enough for me.


Restaurants are expensive, and some pull some ridiculous moves. We encountered heavy rain and 50-mile-per-hour winds on the second day in Venice. It wasn’t the best day for sightseeing. We first went to the Doge’s Palace. Then we saw a café advertising hot chocolate (I’m a huge fan of Spanish and Italian stuff—dark, rich, and not too sweet.) We walked up and asked for one. The nicely dressed waiter told us to come in and sit down. It was a swanky café with red velvet cushions on the seats. My friend figured she would order a cup of tea. Then we saw the menu. Hot chocolate with a cookie: ten euros. What??? I asked the waiter. He said without the cookie, it was only eight euros. I asked about the 3.50 price posted by the door. He said that was takeaway only. We got up, and I took that hot chocolate away in the pouring rain.


That same day, we decided we needed to continue to brave the cold and sideways rain to get a hot lunch. We tried our luck at the nearest restaurant. They had some gluten-free items. Okay. We noticed that a man was eating some soup and asked about it. No gluten. Great! It was a traditional Italian broth-based soup with beef, cabbage, onion, cauliflower, and kale. I would call it peasant soup. It was simple and delicious. We each had a bowl and shared an entrée of chicken and vegetables in a white wine sauce. Also, very good!


Then we got the bill. He charged us 16 euros each for the soup! What? I can’t think of a gourmet restaurant in the US that would demand that much for soup. And the chicken entrée was 17 euros. It didn’t make sense. I asked the waiter if it was correct. He gave me that look, like, of course it is, you stupid tourist. I wonder if that other guy paid 16 Euros for his soup.

A 16-euro bowl of soup!


And the final “I can’t believe you are charging that much” price was the cost of climbing the San Marco Tower. Ten Euros! Nope. I can get my exercise in other ways.


I understand that costs may be higher in Venice because of its location, but groceries were inexpensive. Just saying…
I’ll stick with Spain and Portugal, or at least I won’t return to Venice anytime soon.

A beautiful day in Murano! Okay, Italy wasn’t so bad after all.

Here are some more photos of Italy. My friend and I had a fantastic time despite the few instances of price gouging.

The Leaning Tower of Pisa. Bucket List checked. Climbed it. Very cool experience!
Vicari, a cute Tuscan town with a castle in the middle
The best and reasonably priced food we ate in Italy, at a French restaurant! Bacciomeo in Palaiia
Such a pretty dessert!
Vinci
The World’s tiniest toilet and bidet in our Venice hotel room!

Age is Just a Number

October 21, 2022

Today my friend and I went up to Port Sapalaya. It’s a coastal community just north of Valencia, where the houses are built along canals. It’s known as the “Venice of Valencia.” Indeed, someone had a clever idea in creating it. The residents can safely store their boats alongside their homes and cruise out to enjoy the Mediterranean in minutes. Some houses are two- or three-story while others are pisos or one-level apartments.

We enjoyed our stroll through the neighborhood and took in the beauty of flowers blooming in October.

Then it was time to find some lunch. Since we’re now into the off-season, the restaurant wasn’t crowded. We struggled to communicate with the non-English-speaking waiter because the online menu was stuck in English; I couldn’t get it to flip over to Spanish to place the order. An older couple from the table next to us stood up to help. They spoke a bit of English, and I ensured we were getting what we wanted for lunch. I thought the two of them must have been the restaurant’s owners or managers.

My friend wanted to try a glass of the amber-colored rosé that was on the table, but it was only available by the bottle. They offered red or white wine by the glass. Since they didn’t have any gluten-free beer, and they were trying to talk us into a bottle, I said, “Sure, why not?” Neither of us is a big drinker; we hadn’t yet splurged on drinks.

The funny thing was that the server brought a completely different bottle of wine to the table. My friend was initially disappointed because she wanted to try the other wine. The manager said that we could try it, and they would take it back if we didn’t like it. It was delicious, a little sweet, but light. Perfect for a warm afternoon at the beach.

Seeing that we were happy, our hostess began to chat with us, in Spanish, of course! (My friend doesn’t speak Spanish.) Our hostess told us how we needed to enjoy our retirement years because who knows how many years we have left? Her advice was to get up every morning, give yourself a virtual kiss, and say that you are a princess. In the evening, you must go out, drink wine, dance, and “brin-brin.” (I’m still not exactly sure what brin-brin means, but I felt like it meant to sparkle.) She kept talking and talking. Would she leave before our food arrived? 

Finally, she said she needed to go prepare our food and left. Clearly, she wasn’t the chef because she found another table to chat up.

She was 77 years old and looked like she was in her 50s. Maybe we should all heed her advice.

We enjoyed our leisurely seafood lunch and sipped that delicious wine in the afternoon sun. Afterward, we strolled down the beach to the city beach of Valencia. The wind picked up, and the clouds came in as we walked, creating artful skies. It even sprinkled a bit, a glorious afternoon!

Deceiving First Impressions

October 12, 2022

This picture has nothing to do with this post except that it’s in Valencia, Spain.

This morning I walked to the Ruzafa market to pick up the produce on my list and maybe a little meat. (I wanted to have an abundance of food on hand for my friend who is arriving this afternoon.) It was 10:00, but it was quiet for a Wednesday. Some shops were closed, and others were open. Hm…

When I reached the market, I remembered that today was a national holiday. Not to worry—I have enough food on hand. I stopped at a little health food store/bakery and got some avocados. They didn’t have much gluten-free stuff, but there were some interesting items, and the woman working there was friendly. Finally, I checked to see if the Consum grocery store was open. Nope.

On my street, there is a small fruit and vegetable shop. I stopped there the evening I arrived, and the owner scared me off a bit. I had forgotten eggs at the grocery store and was going to grab a half dozen from him. They seemed expensive—2.20 euros. I only had a 20, and he didn’t have the correct change. I didn’t have anything smaller. He told me to take the eggs, and I could pay him later. His delivery was a bit abrupt, though, and I got nervous. I decided to go without the eggs until the next day.

So, the veggie man’s shop was the only other place where I could pick up some produce today. I walked in and grabbed a lemon and some bananas. Then he asked if I wanted any spinach. Oh, he’s hiding some vegetables in the back! I asked if he had broccoli. He opened a refrigerator, and there were two beautiful broccoli crowns. Forget the spinach.

Then he asked where I was from and how long I would be staying in Valencia. We talked about the differences between the US and Spain. He understood that it was more stressful to live in the US. In fact, he brought it up. I told him I had visited Spain several times and studied here twice. Then he grabbed his map from the top drawer and suggested places to see on the Mediterranean Coast. Very kind of him! He also complimented my Spanish and thought it was great that I was “living” and enjoying my travels. Who needs the big market? The veggie man just got a new customer.

Best Paella Ever

October 9, 2022

I have to confess that I’m not a huge paella fan. I love a Spanish tortilla, some olives, flan, and jamón, but I’m not a big rice fan. It just feels like filler. In fact, the rice dish I had in a restaurant recently was a lot of rice and a little meat and vegetables. I prefer to fill up on healthier things.
Today, my high school friend, who is in Valencia for a week, invited me to join her and her husband on a visit to her “Spanish family.” I felt honored to tag along to meet her Spanish mom and brother and his family. They had just bought a house outside the city, and it even had a pool in the backyard! And her brother’s wife was making paella for us.
The house was beautiful; I could see how proud they were of their new place. They had enjoyed spending time there this summer, and the two teenage girls loved the pool and the ample space of the house.
She had some of the ingredients out for the paella: artichokes and giant beans. Already, it promised to be a different kind of paella.
After some social time and appetizers, she got out the gas burner and paella pan. The pan was almost two feet wide. She considered using a bigger one but decided this would be big enough for eight people.

Lots of olive oil, chicken pieces, and green beans… Then add the artichoke hearts.
Spanish paprika and tomato sauce (She uses turmeric instead of saffron.)
Add rice (I missed that picture!) and sauté. Then add chicken broth and simmer.
A sprig of rosemary is a must!


In the end, there was plenty for all. Everyone had seconds or thirds, including me.
As you can see from the photos, it was delicious! It may have tasted better combined with good company.