Coimbra, Portugal: Gluten-Free Gastronomic Delights!

September 16, 2022

One of the great things about travel is the unexpected surprises. I have traveled throughout Spain several times, but for some reason, I never spent time in Portugal. I guess it’s just that magical attraction of Spain that kept me coming back.

Last spring, I decided to retire early from teaching and explore the possibility of residing in Spain. More than half of the people I talked to suggested I explore Portugal, too. Since I had 90 days, I decided to give Portugal a chance.

I planned most of my itinerary based on a friend’s suggestions. She pulled out her photo album from a two-week trip to Portugal, and I took notes.

Coimbra is the only place I picked on my own, partly because of its location. I also liked that it was a university town, the “Oxford of Portugal.”

When I arrive in a new place, I look up gluten-free restaurants. Coimbra ended up being celiac foodie heaven! Additionally, I was staying in a hotel because I couldn’t find a studio apartment that fit my budget and location requirements. That meant dinners out. (While traveling, I prepare most of my food to save money and eat healthily.)

I immediately found eleven restaurants offering gluten-free menus or at least GF dishes. I dined very well on each of the three nights of my stay.

Soup is a big thing in Portugal
Slow-cooked beef: a worthy splurge!

Tuesday night at Refeitro da Baixa, I was first served a delicious gluten-free whole-grain bread with butter and olive oil. The next course was a lovely vegetable soup, and I splurged on the slow-cooked beef in wine sauce with vegetables and potato puree. Enjoying a gourmet meal in a unique environment (a former ceramics factory) without worrying about gluten contamination was wonderful!

Part of the ceramics factory was still there. Maybe they rent out part of the building to the restaurant?

Wednesday’s lunch was at Sete. They didn’t take lunch reservations, so I arrived when they opened to be sure to get a table. It had been a rainy day, so I decided to make it a leisurely lunch while I watched to downpour outside. I started with a GF Super Bock and olives, followed by vegetable soup (squash-based) and salmon with vegetables. Every bite was so delicious that I considered scrapping my dinner plans to return.

I had a perfect view of the downpour.
Salmon, veggies, and black quinoa on the side

Wednesday evening, I dined at No Tacho. It was a busy, noisy little place, but the food and service were excellent. My dinner started with a small glass of sparkling wine and an appetizer on the house. Their plan worked; I ordered a glass. I branched out and tried the octopus salad. It wasn’t really my thing, but it was good. Then I had risotto with pork tenderloin—delicious!

Octopus salad
Pork tenderloin with risotto

Thursday, I took the bus to Fatima. I was in the neighborhood, so I couldn’t miss one of the world’s holiest sites.

I returned with plenty of daylight to spare and decided on Tapas Nos Costas for dinner. I cheated a little, eating Spanish food in Portugal, but it was oh-so-good and not typically Spanish.

First, I had a romantic table for two in a stone alcove. (Would my mystery Portuguese boyfriend magically appear?) I had a salad with orange, roasted fennel, and lamb chops with honey and almonds, both incredible! Room for dessert? Sure. Basque cheesecake with blueberries! Oh, my. I never eat cheesecake. It was moist and lighter than our American stuff!

A cozy little table for two

But wait, there’s more to tell. When in Coimbra, you absolutely must go to Cosi Gelato. All the gelato and sorbet are made on-site with fresh ingredients. The best part is that you can order a small and get two flavors. I went all four days that I was in Coimbra and tried different sorbets every day: avocado-lime, pineapple-mint, mango-coconut, fig, passion fruit…each one was delicious! There are more than 100 flavors that rotate through.

My train left at 1:40 on Friday. I figured I could check out of my room, leave the suitcase at the hotel, run to Cosi Gelato to arrive when it opened, and still get back to pick up my luggage in time. There was some distance to cover, but my legs were in excellent shape from all the Portuguese hill walking. Are you starting to see how food motivates me?

I arrived at noon, and a man I had yet to meet greeted me from behind the counter. I asked if he was the owner, and he confirmed. We had a lovely conversation. He told me about the places I should see in Portugal and showed me pictures of the massive waves in Nazaré, my next stop. I thought, “Could he be single? I think I’m in love!” Heck, I was already in love with the sorbet. I could live happily ever after in Coimbra.

I could have stayed much longer, but there was that train to catch. I honestly will return to Coimbra just to eat at Cosi Gelato. It’s that good! And it is a cool university town.

Last Bus Day in Porto

September 10, 2022

Yet another day of excessive walking. I knew it going in. I used my last bonus day on the tourist bus to ride to the city park. It was not nearly as impressive as Serralves, but I’m glad I experienced it. Seeing the locals out and about, walking and riding bikes was nice. The man feeding the geese was pretty entertaining, too! Parts of the park were more likable than others, but it was a vast park. I imagine it’s a lot to maintain.


I had a chicken salad for lunch in the park’s café. It was rather tasty, indeed! Baby greens, cucumber, sauteed mushrooms, carrots, chicken, and pineapple! The young woman who waited on me spoke excellent English and ensured my salad was gluten-free.

The day I arrived in Porto, my driver told me I would love the food.


After lunch, I strolled through the park and went down to the beach. I wasn’t sure how far I would walk on the beach, and I went farther than I expected because it was so captivating!

I made it all the way to where the Atlantic meets the Douro. Pretty impressive! I took some nice breaks along the way and even took my shoes off for a while.


At home, I ate yesterday’s fish (too tired to cook last night), fried potatoes, and sauteed green beans and zucchini. The fish was so-so. I ate half of it and threw out the rest.


After dinner, I was hankering for a snack and stepped down to the Pingo Doce. You know what they say about going to the store when you are hungry. I bought a small container of mixed berries, fresh coconut, a package of microwave popcorn, and a bar of shampoo to have a backup. (I should have brought the one I had at home.) The berries were yummy, and so were the gluten-free cookies. Cranberry-orange!

Walking Through Porto

September 9, 2022

Porto, Day Three: Another walk-until-you-drop kind of day!

I decided to get to some of the tourist sights nearby. I got lucky and arrived at the Palacio de Bolsa at 10:40, just in time for the 11:00 tour in English. The tour guide was fantastic, and the building was magnificent! I even met two men my age from Seattle. Again, it was nice to have someone to talk to.

Check out those amazing mosaic floors!
Yup, those are my new Sketchers!


Next, I was about to go to the San Francisco Church next door, but I felt the need for a Coke. (I rarely consume caffeine, but there are those days.) That three-story McDonald’s was staring at me, reminding me it had gluten-free buns inside! It was almost noon, and I was hungry, so why not? The funny part was that I had to walk up to the third floor to get to the bathroom, which was locked with a secret code! A few employees were having a meeting, or maybe an interview, and one of them let me in.

I don’t usually indulge, but I needed some caffeine.


I then proceeded downstairs to order my lunch. The fries were disappointing because they had been sitting under the heat lamp, but the burger was delicious, one of the best gluten-free buns I have ever had!
The church was pretty cool, with interesting three-dimensional scenes. There was a museum, too, and catacombs beneath. The price was steep to get in, though, eight euros.


My next mission was to get across the river to take a boat ride and try some port wine. It felt like a long wait for the bus, but I made it. Then the boat ride was in a different location than the spot that the map indicated. I had to ask a couple of people, and one assured me I should go right in front of the children’s playground. She was right, but I had to go to the bathroom! I ran to the market and had to wait quite a while because there was only one toilet for the women. Apparently, the other one was out of service.
I returned before the boat took off but didn’t get the best seat. I didn’t care, though. It was a gorgeous afternoon, the perfect temperature out. I enjoyed the leisurely cruise and the different perspective. I also noticed a second lower pedestrian bridge I could take back after tasting port.

View of the Palacio de Cristal from the Douro River

It was about 4:00, and once again, I felt hungry. I found a café called 7g, with some gluten-free items on the menu. The chicken bowl I ordered was delicious and hit the spot.

This makes up for the earlier meal at the Golden Arches.


I then made my way uphill to Taylor’s. I was in no mood for another tour, so I went straight to the tasting room. I ordered a glass of 20-year-old tawny along with two truffles. Of course, I preferred the truffles! So glad I did not go for a full tasting; I would have been sick.

When in Porto…


I made my way back downhill and across the river. Then it was all those steps up and a few blocks to get home. I made it, and I was beat. The tawny was not sitting well in my stomach. I finally relaxed and got a good night’s sleep, though.

Dogs are Barking!

September 8, 2022

I walked today; I walked a lot today!
First, I slept in, which was glorious. It was coming up on noon when I finally got to the tourist bus.

I met two college students from Boston who were delightful, intelligent young women. They are both studying bioengineering and smartly saved their “easy” classes for senior year. They are spending the semester in Madrid and are taking advantage of long weekends to go on trips. It sounded like they had the entire semester’s worth of weekends booked up! It was nice to have company and talk to fellow humans.

Gardens and view of the Douro from the Palacio de Cristal


I got off the bus at the Palacio de Cristal. It is primarily a park with beautiful grounds and fantastic views of the Douro River. A local had encouraged me to check it out. I could only partially enjoy the book fair that was going on, though, since I don’t speak Portuguese. Overall, the stop was worth it; I’m thankful for that recommendation.


I then returned to the bus to head to Serralves, a former estate with extensive grounds, gardens, and museums. The first part I saw was a modern art museum. Most of the things in it were garbage, really. I went through that part rather quickly. Then, there was a section with sculptures. That was more interesting, still weird, but interesting. The coolest part was a hallway with bars across it at angles. Partway through, you had to duck and weave to get through. That was the best one. There were two rooms, one intense blue and one intense green, with sculptures. They were cool, too.


Next, I walked the grounds and saw some of the outdoor sculptures. There was a large shovel, at least 15 feet tall, a round metal sculpture, and a mirrored sculpture. Then there were all kinds of gardens and a series of pools in front of the pink Art Deco mansion.


The best surprise was that there was a Miro exhibit inside the mansion! Such a treat; I adore his whimsical style, and I got the bonus of seeing the inside of the villa.

Exterior of the villa

There was still so much more to see, though! The treetop walk, the farm, and more gardens. I was wiped out after walking around.


Oh, but there was more walking in store for me! I got to the bus stop just in time to see my bus leaving. I sat on the curb, thinking I would wait for the next bus. Then I realized that I could walk down to the Foz neighborhood. I was also suffering from hunger and the need to go to the bathroom. Maybe I would see a café along the way. I didn’t have to walk far before spotting a Pingo Doce grocery store. Did I mention this was a ritzy neighborhood with sizeable mansions? So, it was an extra-nice grocery store. First, I went down to the parking garage to use the bathroom.
Then I went in search of some lunch. I put together some chicken lunch meat, Portuguese Fritos, and a fruit-coconut drink. The corn chips were better than Fritos, a little thinner and lighter.

Even though my feet were tired, it was a relatively easy downhill walk to the water. I ended up at the point where the Douro meets the ocean. I was so tired that I couldn’t even walk to the end.

But then I had some motivation to walk a little further. I saw a woman with a Daura Damm gluten-free beer. She told me she had found it at Go Natural, right up the street. I was darn tired, but I made it and hit the jackpot! They even had Celia, the Czech GF beer, and a GF Super Bock. Ahhh.

Blue Bus Day

September 7, 2022

Today was a good day. I woke up feeling almost normal, cooked a delightful breakfast, and walked to the Bolhao Market. It is in a temporary location, just until this Saturday. Then the vendors will be moving back to the newly renovated original market location.


The market was not crowded at all! It appeared that they were happy to have my business. In fact, they were all quite friendly, except for the olive oil lady who would not look up from her phone. I don’t know if she was deaf, disabled, or what. She would not look up. Maybe she was mad that she had to work and ignored all the customers.


That was okay because I ended up buying olives and olive oil from another stand run by a grandmother, her daughter, and her granddaughter. The teenage girl spoke perfect English and was the translator for her grandmother, who kept talking to me in Portuguese.


I wandered a bit more and ran into the Sao Bento train station with the tile murals. It was worth a look!

Then I found the gluten-free bakery, but they are closed for vacation until after I leave. I then looked for comfortable sneakers to allow my feet to breathe in the humid heat. I went with some Sketchers. The extra cushioning helps with the stone sidewalks!

Abundance from the Bolhao Market in Porto!


Back home, I put away my groceries and heated up some soup for lunch. Still delicious!

I had a massage scheduled for 4:00 PM, so I thought I might take a river cruise. On the way, I stopped to ask about the Hop On Hop Off Tour Tickets. The man showed me my options, and I took the two-day pass with a river cruise for 24 euros. I wanted it to activate tomorrow so I could fully use it. He activated it through the tenth and said I could use it today. Four days? Okay!

I decided to get on the Blue Line and ride to scope it out the whole way. The route went to the Atlantic with some really enticing spots on the way. I will make tomorrow my park day, or Friday when the weather is better. So glad I got to see all the sights and get better oriented. It’s nice to be here for a week and not feel rushed.

Sights from the Blue Bus


When I returned, I walked around a bit more and found some reasonably priced sunscreen and a smaller water bottle that would fit in my purse. I then got myself turned around and went in the wrong direction. It’s easy to do here since the streets wind all over!


The massage was fantastic! And only 30 euros. It was a full-body massage, and I mean full-body. She even massaged my abdomen. Wow! She must have been realigning my Chakras. She also slathered me with oil. Quite a cultural experience.


On the way back to the apartment, I stopped at the little cheese shop and got some of the smoked cured ham to try. I can’t say I loved it; the flavor was too strong for me. I chopped some in bits and sautéed it with my green beans. I made roasted sweet and white potatoes, garlic, and carrots in the oven. That turned out pretty well! I’m having fun in my mini kitchen!