Tag: Greece

Hiking the Trails and Towns of Tinos

June 11, 2024

I’ve spent the past several days on the beautiful island of Tinos. It had been on my list of Greek islands to visit, partly because it boasts over 300 kilometers of hiking trails.

My favorite mode of travel is by foot. I don’t roam the world with a big backpack; I’m a day hiker and city walker. One can see so much more while walking, and I love the serenity of roaming the countryside.

Day One:

On my first full day on Tinos, I took a short, easy walk from Chora (the port town and capital) to Kiona. This one was more of a walking route than a trail, but the scenery along the coast was gorgeous! Kiona pretty much consists of a beach and a historic site. If you’re into history like I am, you will want to pay the 3-euro fee and take a look at the Sanctuary of Poseidon and Amphitrite. The ruins date back to the 4th and 2nd centuries BC. Quite impressive!

On the way to Kiona, I spotted a lovely little beach next to the church on the old harbor. I stopped for a swim on the way back, which was divine.

Day Two:

I started from the central bus station by the port and rode up to Arnados to begin my hike. The route took me to the Monastery Koimisis Theotokou, Mountados, Karya, and Triptamos. From there, I hiked back down to Chora. It was a long day of hiking, and the winds were blowing at 20-30 mph with gusts over 40. In total, I calculated about 12 kilometers for the day.

Arnados was my first mountain village. Each village has its own charm, and Arnados is lovely. The walking route guided me through the town and out to the road toward the monastery.

Along the way, I saw some steps heading uphill. I had time, so why not check it out? (I tend to do things like this.)

After climbing up the steps, dodging thistles all the way, I arrived at the remains of a windmill. The ancient path continued up, but I had an extensive itinerary planned for the day and headed back to the road.

I had made the mistake of leaving my big scarf back at my apartment, so I was not allowed to enter the monastery. (The scarf can be wrapped around to substitute for a skirt. Women are prohibited from entering monasteries in shorts, even knee-length ones.) I walked the grounds a bit and continued.

The path led downhill to a small church. Then, the trail markers disappeared. I relied on Google Maps for a walking route and ran into fenced-off spots at a couple of points. I wonder if farmers were trying to keep livestock in or tourists out!

Back on the road, I continued on the route to Mountados. This one is not to be missed! The route takes you down into the village and back up and out. You will be charmed at every turn.

I took a break here, at what used to be the community washing site, to escape the wind and rest my feet.

The next village, Karya, was not far down the road. Right on the walking route, you will come to Taverna Kapua. If you’re hungry or thirsty, stop for a break. The owners are friendly, and the dog is sweet!

The path took me up through Karya. I arrived at an inviting plaza in front of the church. There were trail markers and a map. I didn’t want to add distance to my route, so I headed back down toward Triptamos.

By the time I reached Triptamos, my feet were hoping that I was almost home. Of course, I couldn’t bypass the village, so down the steps I went. Again, the town was very sleepy, with hardly a soul to be found. There was a cute inn, but I didn’t see any restaurants.

I walked up and out of the village to find the route back to Chora. I went down a small side road, hoping it was the way to the T1 trail. Yes, it was!

The scenery on the way down was beautiful, and partway there, I came to this church. It was unique because it was painted blue (not white) and had two alcoves. Not far from the church was an abandoned building.  My best guess was that it was an abandoned monastery.

As I approached Chora, I encountered my first fellow human hikers of the day. We waved hello and carried on. I also encountered some of those +40 gusts as I approached my apartment. The wind was so strong it nearly knocked me down at a couple of points.

Day Three:

I took the other bus (There are only two routes) up to the northern end of the island to Pyrgos. Pyrgos is known as one of the prettiest towns on the island, and I agree. It is cute and inviting for the tourist crowd. Unlike some of the other villages, it has several cafes, restaurants, and shops. It’s also home to a few museums showcasing marble crafting.

From Pyrgos, I walked the road to Panormos on the coast. There’s an inviting beach and an extensive marina. I had my best lunch of the week at Tama. There are several restaurants to choose from, so maybe shop a little in Pyrgos and have lunch at Panormos.

The day’s highlight was the hike back to Pyrgos on the E2 trail. After walking back behind the town, you quickly climb the mountain and enjoy stunning views of the coastline, Panormos, and the surrounding area. Along the ancient path, you will encounter the remains of old windmills, several stone dwellings, and goats.

Day Four:

Back on the original bus, I rode to Falatados to hike the M2 Trail. This is known as the Geo Route because you soon find yourself surrounded by boulders. The route is also quite green, so I felt like I had been transported to a different island. Walking toward Volax, you see the Aegean from the coast opposite Chora.

Volax can’t be reached by public bus, but it is one of the best tourist stops. It’s a picturesque village with cafes and artists’ shops. I lingered for a while, chatting with a couple of the artists.

Continuing on the M2 Route, you will find an interesting church in the rocks. Be sure to go inside this one, as it is unique.

Unfortunately, I kept hiking up past the church. Eventually, I realized I had lost the route (I was supposed to return to the dirt road). I did get to see these two cute tiny churches, though! And the goats kept me company as I used their trails to get back to the road.

The trail continues in a loop to Mirsini and back to Falatados. I missed the connection and ended up walking the road in the wrong direction. (It was my day to get lost!) I had fun strolling among the boulders with the goats and saw some of the island’s vineyards, so no big loss. I do have a tendency to get caught up in the moment; part of the love of wandering!

When I realized my error, I didn’t have time to get back and complete the M2 trail. I made my way back to Falatados on the road in time for the afternoon bus.

Day Five, Last Full Day in Tinos:

I was tired. My legs and feet were in no mood for one more day of hiking. I opted to take the bus to Kardiani, the last village that I wanted to see. It is situated on a mountainside, and it is beautiful! From the moment that I stepped off the bus, it was all stairs! So much for my day off. Kardiani had some unique features, including two springs and three gorgeous plazas.

The trail will take you down to the seaside if you are up for the climb back. You can also hike to Isternia for more captivating views and marble crafting. I will have to save that trek for a future trip.

Kardiani is charming, but like many villages, little is going on. The café/grocery store (one place) was closed. One restaurant was open, and it had fabulous views out to the Aegean. It was also completely covered in vines—very cool! The prices were reasonable, and the service was very good.

The problem with visiting Kardiani by bus was that I had to wait about four hours for the next bus to return. It happened to be a hot day, so the wait felt very long.

Resources: The Tinos Trails Website was incredibly helpful. Home – Tinos Trails There are descriptions of each trail with photos and maps. (I know, how did I get lost?)

Be sure to consult the KTEA bus station for the latest schedules. Apparently, they change quite frequently. And have fun hiking on Tinos!

Sifnos: Cute Little Greek Island


June 11, 2024


I’ve spent the past three weeks in the Cyclades, a circle of Greek islands south of Athens.
My original plans did not include Sifnos, but sometimes, Greek ferry schedules cause itinerary changes. I could not go directly from Serifos to Naxos, but I could get a ferry to Sifnos and travel to Naxos from there. Rather than just stopping on Sifnos, I decided to book two nights and cut short my stay on Naxos.


So glad I did! Sifnos is a day hiker’s dream. From the moment I arrived, I knew that I would want to stay longer.
I had just spent a week at a yoga and meditation retreat on Serifos, and one of my fellow participants was on the ferry with me. She had plans to meet a friend who was arriving later in the day, so we stopped at the tourist information office before getting lunch.
The gentleman working there was cordial and helpful. I immediately spotted the hiking trail map and knew I needed no further information. He showed us some of the most popular sights on the island. My new friend had some questions, so I excused myself and checked in at the office where I would get my apartment key. They said I’d be able to check in by 2:00 PM, so I went back to the tourist office to find my friend.


She and I enjoyed a lunch of Greek salad and chickpea soup. The soup is an island specialty; you must try it if you visit! Then she was off to explore the ceramics shops, and I went to get settled in my new place.
There wasn’t time for a hike that afternoon. Well, I could have hiked, but I wanted to rest. And the beach was calling me out for an afternoon swim! I had my plan set for the morning, though.
At 7:15, I took the first bus of the day up to Apollonia. Upon arrival, I spotted the display just for hikers. I was pretty excited, my kind of island! I took the #3 trail through town and onto an ancient path. It was well-marked most of the way.

I stopped at the Panagia Vrsis Monastery. No one was around except for a dog, barking on my arrival.


I noticed the ancient door was open a crack and walked in. Still, I saw no one. A little eerie but quite beautiful. I took a quick tour and got back on my route.


I eventually arrived in Platis Yialos on the beach. I took a snack break at a little park where a local man was getting his workout. I had to contain my giggles as he grunted his way through. Then, he broke out in song. Quite entertaining!
I continued walking up the beach road toward Chrisopigi Monastery. Its location on a rock in the Aegean is one of the island’s highlights.


Around the bend from the monastery lies an inviting beach. It was nearly noon, and I stopped at the beachside taverna for something to eat. Yes! The chickpea soup was on the menu. This version was more like stew and made good fuel to continue the journey. It came with a quarter of a lemon. I have to say, the flavor is magical. (Sorry, I deleted the soup photo!)


I didn’t walk much further, though. I took the #2 trail along the beach and up to another little church before heading to Faros. At that point, I would have had to put in some significant distance to get to a bus stop. I opted for a taxi back to Kamares instead.


My driver was entertaining, playing Greek music for me. We took a side trip to Apollonia so he could pick up some luggage to bring to the ferry port. He pointed me to the local sweets shop to get a treat while he got the suitcases. I had already decided to return, but he confirmed that I must see more of the island someday.
I returned to my little apartment in time for an evening swim before dinner. Such a lovely beach!
Even though I only spent one day hiking on Sifnos, I’m grateful for the experience. When I return, I will stay in Apollonia, as I can start several different hikes from there.

My Meteora Experience

June 4, 2024

When planning extended trips abroad, I make a somewhat detailed plan and reserve accommodations a few months ahead of time. But I have learned to make reservations that can be canceled because plans change.

A couple of weeks ago, I made such a change. I decided to leave the island of Kos early and head to mainland Greece before a week-long retreat. I won’t go into detail about why I left Kos early—Kos has a lot to offer, and I recommend a visit.

A friend of mine raves about Meteora and was perhaps a little disappointed that I hadn’t planned to go there on my second Greek adventure. Well, change of plans; time to see Meteora!

If you’ve never been or never seen pictures, Meteora is out-of-this world! Dating back at least 1000 years, religious folks have been inclined to dwell there. Hermits have lived in the caves on the towering rocks, and Greek Orthodox monks have built beautiful monasteries on top of the rocks. At one time, there were 24 monasteries. There are now only 6 active monasteries remaining.

Fair warning: even if you take a tour bus, you need to be ready to walk some slopes and climb some stairs. St. Stephens is the only one with easy access.

I stayed in Kalabaka with the intention of hiking to the monasteries. I ended up cheating a bit but was very happy with my experience.

First, I got lucky with a last-minute booking. If you know me, you know that I mostly stay in studio apartments so I can cook my own food. With Celiac disease, it’s easier, and I save time and money. I then have the freedom to eat out when I choose.

My apartment was quite spacious with a view of St. Stephens, one of the two nunneries. The long balcony was shaded all afternoon, allowing me the perfect place to rest.

Hiking Day One

I started from my apartment at about 8:00 AM and took the trail up to Holy Trinity Monastery. It’s a pleasant path, shady most of the way, which is helpful as you gain altitude.

On my way up, I encountered first an older Greek man and then a younger Greek man, both on their way down. Then a young American man passed me going up. I told him that I was preserving my energy for the day, and he said, “You look great!” Nice to get some motivation from a stranger.

When you get to the top of the trail, there are still over 100 stairs to conquer before reaching the monastery. Even though the sign said that it opened at 10:00, a few of us were entering before 9:30.

Holy Trinity is probably the most photographed of Meteora’s monasteries. It sits rather perfectly on top of its rock. (I took this photo the next day from a different angle.)

In the garden area, I saw the young American man again. We sat and conversed for about half an hour. It was a much-needed break. He said he was heading to St. Stephens next. I didn’t walk with him but had the same plan.

So, down the stairs and up the long, paved walkway I went. I saw a path to the right and figured it was a way to avoid walking the road. Thankfully, it was, and I reached St. Stephens about 40 minutes later.

By then, the tour buses had arrived. I was grateful to have had the quiet, uncrowded experience at Holy Trinity. I briefly encountered the young American man and exchanged a few words.

Even though it was crowded, St. Stephens is beautiful, and all the monasteries have wonderful views. St. Stephens also had an interesting gift shop that included some items made by the nuns. I asked questions about the products, and the nun seemed pleased by my interest. The St. John’s Wort oil that I bought does seem to work well for massaging sore muscles!

I started walking toward the other monasteries and realized that I needed to save some energy for the next two days. I ended up taking the trail back to town and my apartment.

Hiking Day Two

I decided to walk through the smaller town, Kastraki, to reach some of the other monasteries. As I walked through, I decided that if I returned, I would stay in Kastraki. It’s smaller than Kalabaka and has a calmer vibe. The homes are well-kept, and there are oodles of flowers.

I got distracted by some ruins of a monastery on the side of a rock and decided to take that smaller, less-traveled road. Looking at Google Maps, I figured I could take a trail to cut back through. I was ready for an adventure anyway.

I ended up visiting a monastery that was out in the country and not built on top of a rock. The monk was very welcoming, and I had a unique experience where I sat down and chatted with him in limited English. He offered me cookies and coffee. I tried to explain my celiac disease, and at first, he thought I was diabetic. Google translator helped a bit! I was grateful for the experience as he said they only get a few visitors a day at most. (On Google Maps, the name of the monastery was only in Greek; so, I can’t add it here. Sorry.)

I then continued, trying to make a loop. I stopped at a tiny church that was locked. Bummer. A well-marked bike trail eventually got me back to a main road.

I survived with just one blister on my big toe. My best estimate is that I hiked about 12 miles.

By the time I arrived back at the apartment, I had about 90 minutes to eat, rest, and shower before my sunset tour. (It began at 3:45.) I got to see Saint Nicholas Monastery (more stairs to climb) and saw the exterior of the other monasteries. The sunset wasn’t exactly spectacular, but our bus driver and tour guide were! It was a minibus with only 18 passengers, so we had a personalized experience. We also saw some things that I wouldn’t have been looking for on my own.

St. Nicholas from the parking area

Views from St. Nicholas

11th Century Byzantine church in Kalapaka

Abandoned monastery

Hiking Day Three

I figured out a plan to go for a walk while preserving my blistered toe and visit the last must-see monastery on my list.

I took a taxi up to Roussanou, the other nunnery, and wore my sneakers instead of my hikers. As predicted, Roussanou was the prettiest of all. The garden was stunning, and the grounds were well-kept. Inside the church, people were lighting candles and praying. It was a beautiful experience.

Looking back up at Roussanou as I walked down the road

After the visit, I walked down the winding hill at a leisurely pace. I stopped to take photos that you’d never get from a tour bus and took a nice break in the old town section of Kastraki.

My plan worked out well, and my feet were thankful for the shorter itinerary.

I saw several bicyclists making their way uphill and ran into two Spanish men my age toward the end of my walk. They were excited that I spoke Spanish, and I helped them in the right direction. They were getting started in the heat of the day; it was 11:40 by then. I was glad to be headed back.

As I reached Kalabaka, I stopped at the Digital Projection Center to watch the 3D films. One was about Mt. Olympus and the other two were about Meteora. Well worth the three-euro admission. The tour guide from last night had recommended it.

After yesterday’s long day of walking, I felt like I needed to catch up on eating. I stopped at Taverna Yamas for some fresh and tasty food. I had shrimp swimming in olive oil and tomato sauce topped with feta, and grilled mushrooms with balsamic. Both were delicious. I was so busy eating; I didn’t even share any shrimp with the cat who was patiently waiting.

For me, Meteora was an amazing place that everyone should see if they can. We’re talking bucket list like the Grand Canyon or Machu Picchu. I would happily go back to experience it again. I hope you see it someday, too!

Why You Should Stay in Delphi (rather than take a one-day tour from Athens)

May 24, 2024


I recently spent two nights in Delphi and wish I had stayed longer.
The archeological site is incredible! I mean, we’re talking about the center of the ancient world. The archeological museum is small but top-notch, with some beautiful and very old statues dating to the 5th and 6th centuries BC. (You’ll pay one admission fee for the archeological site and museum. I believe it was 12 euros.)

Since I was staying in town, I was able to arrive at the site when it opened at 8:00. There were only about four other people at the site with me from 8:00-9:00.


But I encourage you to explore the town of Delphi, too. It’s a charming village built on the mountainside. Its six horizontal streets are connected by several staircases, all unique and charming in their own ways. The views of the mountains and the Sea of Corinth in the distance are captivating! And, down on the valley floor is Greece’s largest olive grove. (We’ll come back to that later.)


Delphi is known as a foodie town, too. My limited gluten-free, low-meat diet doesn’t allow me to try everything, but each dish I tasted was delicious. I highly recommend Taverna Vakhos. Their menu is carefully marked with gluten-free, vegan, and allergen symbols. I ordered an appetizer of potatoes with oyster mushrooms in a turmeric sauce. It may not sound that interesting, but it was incredible. My main entrée was artichokes with lemon sauce. The menu said it was accompanied by other vegetables, peas, and (oops!) more potatoes. The portions were enormous; fortunately, my room had a small refrigerator.
At Taverna Gargadoyas, I had a late evening bite of giant beans. The owner said they were his favorite, and his 84-year-old mama still makes them. Even if that isn’t true, (who knows?) they were to die for. I had only ordered a serving of beans but was given a small plate of cherries for dessert. In fact, at every restaurant in Delphi, I was served a dessert on the house.


I was impressed with the generosity and kindness of all the restaurant staff. As a solo traveler, I’ve previously had not-so-great experiences: being ignored, being seated at the bar…not in Delphi. I was an honored guest at each restaurant.
On my second full day, I walked the ancient path from Delphi to Kirra. The idea of walking through Greece’s largest olive grove intrigued me. I couldn’t resist the draw of the Gulf of Corinth either. Even though it’s mostly downhill, it’s still quite a trek, over 11 kilometers. Fortunately, a bus in Kirra will take you back up to Delphi.

This sweet dog sat in the shade and waited for the bus with me!


The owner of the pension where I was staying (Sun View Guesthouse: a bargain at 50 euros/night!) suggested that I also take the hike to the lookout above Delphi. Sadly, my time and energy were limited. Next trip!

Can you believe it? A view like that for 50 euros a night!


So, please, take at least a couple days to eat and walk through historic Delphi. Enjoy!

Sunday Wander on Karpathos

October 22, 2023

This is what got me started today. It’s called Poseidon’s Temple, and it’s about a 25-minute walk from where I’m staying in Pigadia, Karpathos, Greece.

It was Sunday morning, and I was due for a good walk. I was still feeling the pain of my hike in Samaria Gorge on Crete last Thursday; I thought a good walk might ease the pain and stretch me out a bit.

Apparently, Poseidon’s Temple is an ancient burial site. There are two caves behind the gate, and one certainly looks like a burial chamber. There were no signs, and I stumbled upon it accidentally when I was studying Google Maps. Perhaps I will learn more when I visit the archeological museum tomorrow.

I was in the mood for a longer wander. So, I continued down the road. I thought I might go visit one of the beaches on the other side of the island. My swimsuit and towel were in my backpack just in case.

Then, around the corner, I saw this:

The village of Menetes up on the hill (mountain?). I was feeling pretty energetic, the weather was perfect, and it was only a little after 9:00 AM. I could swim back in Pigadia this afternoon.

Then I was reassured a few minutes later when I saw this sign:

I was on a designated walking route. All good.

And there was the carrot on the stick; that cute village kept getting closer and closer.

As I ascended, I could see the bay by Pigadia as well as the other side of the island.

I also snagged a ripe fig from a tree. Delicious!

The views were better and better as I approached the war memorial outside of Menetes.

View of Pigadia

There was also a small chapel (They are everywhere in Greece!) just a hundred feet from the memorial, and the door was open. I stepped in. It was cool and peaceful inside. I was thankful for the resting spot.

The cemetery between the war memorial and town:

As I walked into town, there was a little stand with local goods. I had been seeing similar stands all over Croatia and Slovenia earlier in the trip. Three people were sitting around the table. (I took the photo later.)

The owner struck up a conversation with me.

“We saw you walking up. Where are you from?”

“The United States.”

“But where?”

“Seattle.”

“Oh, Seattle, Washington. I lived in the U.S. in 1977, in Washington DC, the other Washington. Today is the last day. I will give you a good deal.”

He really wanted to sell me some wine or olive oil, but I need to think about volume and bulk. Instead, I bought some dried figs, a lime, a small jar of olives, and some mixed herbs. I would consume all but the herbs before continuing to my next destination.

We continued to chat, and he offered me some fresh grapes.

“They aren’t so good. You know, they are the last of the Mohicans.”

I thought they were pretty tasty.

He advised me to make the chapel up above town my final destination and sent me on my way.

Most of the homes can be reached only by stairs. The townspeople must all have great legs!

View of the town from the big church:

After more and more stairs, I arrived at the chapel above the town. It was also open!

And, of course, the best views of the day at about 1650 feet! This is a view of the south end of Karpathos.

It was nice to be seemingly the only tourist in town today. The walk up was peaceful, and the gentleman at the stand was the first person I had encountered besides a couple of workers on the side of the road.

The funniest things happened later on the way back, though.

As I was walking back on the main road, a taxi started honking at me. He pulled up and asked if I needed a ride.

“No thanks. I’m walking.”

“I’ll give you a ride for free!”

Okay, that was a little creepy.

Then, a few minutes later, two men driving a car with a rental company logo slowed down and asked if I needed a ride. They laughed when I told them, “No Thanks. I’m walking.”

About twenty minutes later, another taxi slowed down and asked if I needed a ride. At least he didn’t seem to mind when I refused.

I wonder if some tourists get hot and tuckered out, so they are used to picking up people on the way down. It was over nine miles round trip, after all.

I arrived back at my apartment just after 1:00 PM and enjoyed a hearty lunch on the balcony, satisfied with the day’s wandering.

And yes, I did go for a swim in the afternoon.