May 24, 2024

I recently spent two nights in Delphi and wish I had stayed longer.
The archeological site is incredible! I mean, we’re talking about the center of the ancient world. The archeological museum is small but top-notch, with some beautiful and very old statues dating to the 5th and 6th centuries BC. (You’ll pay one admission fee for the archeological site and museum. I believe it was 12 euros.)

Since I was staying in town, I was able to arrive at the site when it opened at 8:00. There were only about four other people at the site with me from 8:00-9:00.

But I encourage you to explore the town of Delphi, too. It’s a charming village built on the mountainside. Its six horizontal streets are connected by several staircases, all unique and charming in their own ways. The views of the mountains and the Sea of Corinth in the distance are captivating! And, down on the valley floor is Greece’s largest olive grove. (We’ll come back to that later.)

Delphi is known as a foodie town, too. My limited gluten-free, low-meat diet doesn’t allow me to try everything, but each dish I tasted was delicious. I highly recommend Taverna Vakhos. Their menu is carefully marked with gluten-free, vegan, and allergen symbols. I ordered an appetizer of potatoes with oyster mushrooms in a turmeric sauce. It may not sound that interesting, but it was incredible. My main entrée was artichokes with lemon sauce. The menu said it was accompanied by other vegetables, peas, and (oops!) more potatoes. The portions were enormous; fortunately, my room had a small refrigerator.
At Taverna Gargadoyas, I had a late evening bite of giant beans. The owner said they were his favorite, and his 84-year-old mama still makes them. Even if that isn’t true, (who knows?) they were to die for. I had only ordered a serving of beans but was given a small plate of cherries for dessert. In fact, at every restaurant in Delphi, I was served a dessert on the house.

I was impressed with the generosity and kindness of all the restaurant staff. As a solo traveler, I’ve previously had not-so-great experiences: being ignored, being seated at the bar…not in Delphi. I was an honored guest at each restaurant.
On my second full day, I walked the ancient path from Delphi to Kirra. The idea of walking through Greece’s largest olive grove intrigued me. I couldn’t resist the draw of the Gulf of Corinth either. Even though it’s mostly downhill, it’s still quite a trek, over 11 kilometers. Fortunately, a bus in Kirra will take you back up to Delphi.

This sweet dog sat in the shade and waited for the bus with me!

The owner of the pension where I was staying (Sun View Guesthouse: a bargain at 50 euros/night!) suggested that I also take the hike to the lookout above Delphi. Sadly, my time and energy were limited. Next trip!

Can you believe it? A view like that for 50 euros a night!

So, please, take at least a couple days to eat and walk through historic Delphi. Enjoy!