Tag: Japan

My Solo Itinerary in Central Japan

I recently took a 38-day solo trip through central Japan. This was an itinerary I had put off for some time. Honestly, I knew it would be a little out of my comfort zone, and it fell lower on my list than other places. Europe, Australia, and New Zealand were easier.

But as I was traveling in Europe last spring, Japan kept coming up in conversations with fellow travelers. People were raving about cheap airfares and the natural beauty of the country. One person, knowing my love of hiking, urged me to go. How could I not consider it?

Then, a family member had to change her travel plans, and I was no longer obligated to dog sit for her in October. I could head straight there after cat sitting in Hawaii for two weeks.  Everything pointed to Japan—it was time.

Even though I live this crazy, fluid nomadic life, I am a planner at heart. I book most of my accommodations far in advance. This time, I was on a tighter timeline. Finding places to stay, within my budget, was challenging. October and November are popular months for travel in Japan. The weather has cooled, and that beautiful autumn color is coming on.

Unlike people who go on vacation for a week or two, I am a traveler, going at a slower pace. I like to stay at least five days in each destination. Some of my nomad friends stay as long as a month in a place.

I decided to focus on central Japan. My trip to Australia and New Zealand last year involved too many flights for my taste. I wanted this one to be simpler.

First stop: Tokyo (Six Nights)

My flight was from Honolulu to Haneda. From what I read online, Haneda was the preferred airport with easier access to the city center. This proved to be true.

Since my flight arrived late at night (10:00 pm), I booked a hotel near the airport in case of delays and because I knew I would be exhausted.

The hotel was perfect: nice, clean room for one, onsen (community bath) in the hotel, and breakfast included.

The next morning, I caught the hotel shuttle back to Terminal Two at Haneda Airport. This is the place to buy a real Suica Card, not the tourist one. You load it with cash to use on public transportation in Japan. Much easier than fumbling for change on a bus, subway, or train. You can even use it for purchases at convenience stores like 7-Eleven and some vending machines.

I stayed in Tokyo five more nights in the Harumi Flag neighborhood. It was enough time to take in the primary sights on my list. Could I have stayed longer? Yes! I’m sure that I could easily keep myself occupied in Tokyo for a month.

Tokyo highlights: Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building for a no-cost high-rise view of the city; Team Lab Planets (Make a reservation online well in advance.); Imperial Palace and East Garden; Meiji Jingu Shrine and Garden

Nikko (Three nights)

I didn’t want to miss this spectacular UNESCO World Heritage Site, just 150 kilometers north of Tokyo.

Warning: Accommodations are expensive in Nikko. It’s a popular destination and not all that big. The best thing that I could find within a reasonable budget was a family-owned pension a mile or so outside of town. My room was tired and dated and the hallway carpet smelled. But it was worth it to be able to explore Nikko and the surrounding area. And my hosts were lovely.

If you are like me and you don’t like to drive in foreign countries, the good news is that there are buses in Nikko to transport you to the local sights. The bus station is right across the street from the main train station, and the bus routes are clearly marked for tourists. You can pay in cash or with your Suica Card.

I spent the first day walking around the main temple sites in Nikko. The local walking map that I used had two main routes. I chose the Takino Path. If you have the energy, be sure to go all the way to the top. You will find it’s much quieter up there with fewer tourists, and there are numerous interesting sights along the way.

The second day, I took the bus to Kegon Falls and Lake Chuzenji. On the way back to Nikko, I got off the bus and walked to Yashio-no-yu Onsen. From there, I was able to walk part of the Kanman Path back to town.

I wish I had taken one more day in Nikko. I wasn’t able to see everything in the two full days that I was there.

Matsumoto (Seven nights)

I booked a longer stay in Matsumoto because I knew I would be taking day trips from there. I would have been okay with five or six nights, but it was nice to slow down a bit after the busy days in Tokyo and Nikko.

Matsumoto is a small city near the Japanese Alps. It’s the home of the famous Matsumoto Castle and is the birthplace of Yayoi Kusama, the artist known internationally for her large, vibrant creations. The train station is clean and new with the bus station out front. The people working at tourist information in the train station are very helpful. Be sure to stop there when you get off the train.

There are several museums, large and small. Don’t miss the City Art Museum and Kaichi School. There are some gems like Nawate Shopping Street, City Art Museum, and Alps City Park. Accommodations are reasonably priced. I stayed in a nice modern hotel with a kitchenette just three blocks from the train station.

Day trips from Matsumoto

Azumino: You can reach Azumino by trainin under half an hour. Be sure to go on a nice day, if possible, because you will be renting a bike to see the town. The local tourism agency has smartly created a map with bike routes. You can rent a bike from your pick of a few shops near the train station for just 200 yen/hour. (Four hours cost $5.30 US.) Then, it is off on two wheels through the rice paddies and along the river to the Wasabi Farm and other local sights. If you enjoy sculptures, don’t miss the Rokukan Art Museum.

Kamikochi: This is the location in Chubu Sangaku National Park that you must see. You can get there by bus, or bus and train combination. When you arrive in Matsumoto, head straight to the bus station (visible across from the train station) to reserve your round-trip tickets. Or you can prebook online.

The bus ride up to Kamikochi is thrilling, to say the least. If you are on the left side of the bus, you seem to get more of the straight-down-OMG views. If you are a walker, get off the bus at Tashio Pond to walk through the park. Otherwise, get off at the main bus station in the park. The visit was a highlight of my trip. I walked about eight miles that day.

Torii Pass Hike:

Take the train from Matsumoto to Yabuhara. From there, you will hike up and over Torii Pass on an ancient path to Narai, a town with a nationally designated historic district. The trail is well-marked the entire distance, and you will see shrines, ancient stone paths, and other historic sights along the way. It is a moderate hike with some elevation, so make sure you are prepared. You will be able to fill your water bottle at several points along the way.

If you aren’t a hiker, take the train to Narai. The historic town is not to be missed. Plan to spend a couple of hours strolling through the town, perhaps with lunch. There are historic houses to tour and fun shops to visit. Be sure to see the Kiso Ohashi Bridge, too. It is over 300 years old and is one of Japan’s largest arched bridges.

Takayama (Six Nights)

Takayama has much to offer! If you only have time for one stop in this region of Japan, I feel like Takayama is it. It is a fun, cute, walkable town with tons of opportunities packed into a compact space. There are two daily morning markets, so you can pick the one that is closest to your hotel. You will find fresh produce, packaged and freshly made foods, and crafts at the markets.

Again, be sure to stop at the tourism office, right in front of the train station. You will want to get the town map that shows all the main sights and walking routes. There are numerous temples and shrines to see, a walkable historic district, several museums, and a cat café/adoption center.

Day Trips from Takayama:

Shirakawa-Go and Ainokura Village: I opted for a bus tour to these two sites. Shirakawa-Go is the larger and more well-known of the two, but I preferred Ainokura because it was much less crowded. There are Gassho (thatched roof) houses throughout the region. If you are pressed for time, you can go to the open-air museum in Takayama.

Hida Furukawa: This town, which is much smaller than Takayama, is a short 20-minute train ride away but worth a visit if you have time. There are a few gems like canal street and the Festival Exhibition Hall. I visited in the morning, had lunch, and was back in Takayama for the afternoon.

(You can also get to Kamikochi from Takayama if you decide to skip Matsumoto.)

Kanazawa (Four Nights)

This is the one destination that I planned perfectly. Kanazawa is a medium-sized city close to the Sea of Japan. I feel like it is an up-and-coming place, partly because it was added to the Shinkansen route late in the game. I absolutely loved Kanazawa and am so happy it was part of my itinerary. After spending nearly two weeks in the Japanese Alps region, it felt fresh and modern without being too busy or crowded.

The main sights in Kanazawa are in a rather compact zone, all of which can be reached by two ingenious tourist bus loops that start at the train station.  

When you arrive, pick up a map at the tourist information center in the train station. There was also a nicely designed newspaper made especially for English-speaking tourists.

Some of the top sights in Kanazawa are Kanazawa Castle, Kenrokuen Garden (one of the top three gardens in Japan), Omicho Market, Nagamachi Samurai District, three geisha districts, temple areas, and a museum district including the 21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art and my favorite, the D.T. Suzuki Museum.

Kanazawa is a great place to eat, too! I have Celiac Disease, but for a city of its size, there were several dining options for me. For those without dietary restrictions, it seemed to be a foodie haven. You could spend days eating your way through Omicho Market!

Kyoto (Eleven Nights)

Most people wouldn’t spend a week and a half in one place, but remember, I’m a slow traveler. I also thought I might be taking day trips to Nara, Lake Biwa, or Osaka. (However, I didn’t.) In the end, I didn’t quite see everything on my list, and I found some extra treasures along the way.

For me, Kyoto was the best place in Japan. I love history and nature, making Kyoto my kind of place. There are also 14 UNESCO World Heritage Sites in the city! Additionally, it is surrounded by mountains. A day trip up to Mount Kurama is a must. The Kyoto Botanical Garden has Japan’s largest collection of plants, and the conservatory alone is worth the trip. Philosopher’s Path is another must-do. Even though I’m not a big shopper, I loved walking through Nishiki Market and some of the other covered pedestrian streets. And museums, so many museums. The list goes on…

Kyoto was the city where I most fully felt like I was experiencing Japan. I stayed in a hotel that was located between the Kamo River and Kyoto Gyoen National Garden. It was a bit north of the heavily touristed areas of central Kyoto, but I had easy access to buses and trains. I was hanging out with locals and college kids. People seemed more laid back, and I engaged in more conversations with locals. I often took evening strolls along the Kamo River, and I even experienced a shiatsu massage.

For anyone else out there who suffers from Celiac Disease, Kyoto is the place to go in Japan. I ate lunch out every day and didn’t even make it to all the restaurants on my list. Perhaps it is the number of expats and foreign college students in the city who have influenced this shift. I’m not sure, but it was nice to find a selection of places to eat.

All in all, I’m very happy with my Central Japan experiences. If you’ve never been, I suggest adding it to your travel wish list. Happy travels!

Gluten-Free in Japan: Can it be Done?

(Disclaimer: I am person who has Celiac Disease. I am not an expert and have no medical background. I am simply sharing my travel experiences from one trip to Japan.)

I have been traveling the World for over three years. I put off going to Japan for one reason—gluten. As a Celiac, I knew it would be challenging to find safe things to eat in Japan. After talking to several traveling friends, I decided to give Japan a try and came for 38 days in October and November 2025.

So, how did it go?

First, there is the language barrier. I know just a few words and phrases in Japanese, and frankly, I wasn’t motivated to learn more. Some people in Japan will understand “Gluten Free” and some won’t. I carried a card in Japanese that explained my dietary needs and found it often elicited a strong response. Someone I met in Japan said that many people would see it as demanding and inappropriate. Even in a couple of restaurants that supposedly offered gluten-free food, I was turned away. And believe me, I was turned away numerous times!

Second, there’s a lot of gluten hiding in Japanese food. Soy sauce is the obvious one, but gluten can be found in other places. They seem to add wheat where wheat really doesn’t belong. Also, barley, another grain that contains gluten, is not considered an allergen in Japan.

I understand that Celiac Disease less common among Asian people. Please don’t think I’m a big old complainer; I get it. The majority of Celiac sufferers are Caucasian females. The UK and Australia seem to have the highest numbers.

It was challenging, though. I’m not usually driven to tears because of my dietary needs, but I found myself in a rather desperate state several times during the trip.

When I travel in Europe, I mostly book small apartments so that I can avoid gluten issues. I love visiting local markets and cooking up beautiful soups, stews, and salads. I know I can find basic GF products like noodles, bread, and spaghetti sauce. Of course, I track down gluten-free bakeries and take full advantage of their offerings, too. But, for the most part, I don’t eat out much. And if I want to meet up with friends or enjoy a meal, it’s usually easy to find something gluten-free. The same goes for Australia and New Zealand. In fact, I put on a few pounds when I visited last year because of all the delicious treats!

Unfortunately, it wasn’t cost effective to book studio apartments in many Japanese locations. In some places, I was able to book hotels with kitchenettes, though. (I try to keep an average nightly budget around $100 US when traveling abroad. In Japan, I averaged about $120.)

If you are looking for gluten-free labels in Japanese grocery stores, good luck. There will be very few. I found one brand of GF pho noodles in a cup, some GF pasta, GF almond milk, and that was about it. Many products are labeled only in Japanese. It was tedious to use my translator as I walked through the store. You can find organic or health-oriented stores in larger cities, but still, there were not many GF offerings.

By using sites like Google Maps and Find Me Gluten-Free, you will find restaurants and some bakeries. You may only find one or two restaurants in smaller towns, though. Many times, it will be a curry place. I was tired of curry by the second week.

The most frustrating thing that I encountered many times was random closures. I would plan my itinerary for the day with a visit to a certain restaurant, only to find that it was closed for the day. Not a big deal if you have other options. But it got tedious planning my day around finding a lunch spot.

I found some towns/cities more gluten friendly than others. You can see specific notes at the end of this post.

My recommendations if you plan to travel to Japan as a Celiac/gluten intolerant person:

  • Bring your digestive enzymes. I carry Glutenease with me at all times and had to use it several times in Japan.
  • Bring a supply of GF high-protein bars from home. The only protein bars that you will consistently find in Japan are Soy Joy brand. Even though they aren’t labeled gluten-free, my online research indicates that they are. I ate at least one every day and didn’t react. Some flavors are tastier than others, and they are inexpensive, costing 60 to 90 cents at most grocery stores. (I found Kind Bars in a few convenience stores, too.)
  • Of course, fruits and vegetables are safe
  • Most packaged nuts seem to be safe. Again, check the labels.
  • You can get little single-sized servings of many things at grocery stores, such as salad with only vegetables and single packs of legumes and corn
  • Rice noodles and rice crackers might be safe. Read the ingredients carefully!
  • Most potato chips are not safe. There tend to be lots of additional ingredients.
  • In cities with large department stores, you will find gourmet grocery stores in the basement. At Ginza Six (Tokyo), there was even a health food store in one corner. I stocked up on GF snacks for the trip to Nikko.

You certainly won’t starve in Japan, but you may feel deprived at times. I don’t usually feel sorry for myself when I see others eating gluten-filled goodies, but I admit, there were moments when I did in Japan.

Tokyo

Being one of the World’s largest cities, you will find several gluten-free restaurants with great food, and restaurants that offer gluten-free dishes. Here are the places I visited:

Gluten-Free T’s: Don’t miss it! It is Asia’s first certified gluten-free restaurant. It’s not very big, so you may have to wait for a table. I promise it will be worth it!

Fancl Brown Rice: This restaurant is located in the basement of a cosmetics store in the Ginza district. What a find! It is a serene sit-down restaurant, and you can safely enjoy your meal here.

Mr. Farmer: This is a vegan restaurant with some gluten-free offerings. My salad was good, but the tiramisu was amazing! Worth a visit.

Soranoiro Nippon: Yes, you can have the complete Ramen Street experience in Tokyo Station. When you line up to order, you will see one gluten-free button on the lower right side. It was delicious and good fun!

Canele et Creme Glacee: Gluten-free matcha canelle. The Japanese appreciate French goodies.

Avan Gluten Free Cafe: This is a place for a little snack in Ueno Station. It’s tough to find, way up on the fourth floor, but if you like chewy mochi, you will enjoy the mochi churros. They also serve smoothies to round out the treat. Not my favorite, but the father and son who ordered right after me thought it was great.

Wagyu Hotpot FOODLAB Tsukiji: I returned to Tokyo for the last 36 hours before flying home. I was fortunate to book a hotel withing walking distance of this restaurant. I was oh-so-happy to experience shabu shabu!

Ain Soph. Ginza: My last meal in Japan! I had lunch at this magnificent vegan restaurant that serves many gluten-free dishes. I ordered the bento box lunch with a craft ginger ale. Amazing!

Nikko

Honestly, I didn’t find much in Nikko. There was a restaurant and at least one café that offered gluten-free food. At the restaurant, the line was long, and I was feeling impatient. I stayed at a small family-owned inn, and the owner made a special dinner for me one night. Otherwise, I survived on food from the grocery store.

Matsumoto

There are a few restaurants with gluten-free food. This was a location where I had a kitchenette, so I prepared my own dinners and some lunches.

Doon Shokudo Indoyama: The owners were very careful about preparing a gluten-free meal for me, and it was delicious. Yes, curry, but I felt safe eating there, and enjoyed conversing with the owners.

Mount Desert Island Ice Cream: This is an ice cream shop with unique gourmet flavors. You will find allergen labels, and it is really good ice cream! I went twice. It’s conveniently located on Nawate Shopping Street, too!

Takayama

For a small city there are a surprising number of restaurants offering gluten-free food. Some are high-end, and you may need reservations to get in. Unfortunately, I missed those.

Lighthouse Tea Room: Cute little place close to the Takayama Castle Ruins. The owner speaks English well and is a former dietician. She lived in Germany and knows her stuff. She is also an amazing baker! I went back a second time for a slice of her amazing apple cake. I also had an open-faced egg salad sandwich on rice bread. Delicious and not to be missed.

Cha Mame Cafe: Several gluten-free options and another very kind restaurant owner. Order the daily plate special for lunch, and you won’t be disappointed! It was the most amazing meal that I had up to the point of the trip. I returned another day for pho and didn’t like it quite as much.

Fukyuan: Located in the historic district of Takayama, you will probably need Google maps to find this one. The gluten-free offerings are spectacular crepes. I had a chocolate-banana one with whipped cream. Absolutely delicious! The atmosphere of the historic building makes the visit worthwhile, too.

Royal Nan House: More curry but quite good! They also speak English.

At the Miyagawa morning market you can find freshly made squares, much like a marshmallow, for 150 yen each. Fun idea and it made me feel like I was participating in the market.

Hida-Furukawa

This is a small town, a short distance by train from Takayama. My first day in Takayama, I happened to meet Kate, who is putting together a gluten-free Hida project. Be sure to check the website before you go to The Hida area: eateasyjapan.com

Shirakawa-go

This is a UNESCO Heritage site of Gassho houses. Hopefully, it’s on your itinerary because it’s not to be missed.

Restaurant Irori: Here you can get a complete Japanese meal with Hida beef. It was rather bland, but you can use the GF soy sauce to make it a little more exciting.

(Egaoya Café is highly rated and offers gluten-free desserts but wasn’t open the day I was in town.)

Kanazawa

Such a nice surprise! Located near the Sea of Japan, Kanazawa has that perfect mix of historic sights and modern attractions. Definitely worth a two-to-four-night stay on your Japan itinerary. Accommodations here are less expensive, too. I stayed at Tokyu Stay in an extra-large room with a kitchenette for $108 USD/night.

Café Tamon: This one comes up first on Find Me Gluten-Free for a reason. It’s a fun place to eat. You may have to wait for a table, but it will be worth your time to try their delicious fluffy pancakes. I had a clear view of the open kitchen, which enhanced the experience. I ordered eggs Benedict. It was yummy, but not very filling.

Love For All: I have mixed feelings about this restaurant. First, it felt like a safe place to eat. They are conscientious about gluten-free and vegan food (although they do offer dishes with seafood). If you want to go for dinner, it’s best to stop by in advance to make a reservation. They are open 1:00-3:00 for lunch and serve drinks until 5:00 pm. Then they close for an hour to get ready for dinner. If you have a reservation, you can walk in at 6:00. I indulged in the six-course seafood dinner. It was pricey for Japan, but worth it for the experience. They also require you to order a drink with your meal, which jacks up the price a bit. You can order ala cart and save some money. Lunch is also less expensive.

Shirom Creperie: This one isn’t just for sweets. You can get yummy savory crepes for lunch here, too. I sat at the counter and watched to amazing one-woman crepe-making show. A fellow celiac sat next to me, and we compared notes. She also recommended PickPHO and Fuwari.

Kyoto:

Yay for Kyoto! There were so many gluten-free restaurants that I didn’t have time to visit them all.

Kyoto Engine Ramen: Bring your appetite because they serve up one big, filling bowl of ramen! I had the number one, zesty ramen. Wow! It was delicious, and I was stuffed.

Nishiki Market Alley by MOON and BACK: This place had an extensive gluten-free menu. On the first visit, I ordered the ramen. A few days later, I went back to try some other dishes, including gyoza and fried chicken. What a treat!

CHOICE: Vegan and 100% gluten-free! I ordered pizza and salad for lunch. My advice is to not expect to be exactly like the pizza you know, and you will enjoy the meal. The crust was phenomenal!

Café Planet: This restaurant was close to my hotel, so I lunched there twice. Like Choice, it is gluten-free and vegan. The food was good but not great. On my first visit I had the pasta lunch and the second time I had the vegan burger. The bun was great, but the filling squished out when I bit it. Not great. Really cute, bright restaurant, popular with the computer and coffee crowd.

Japanese Mazemen Maruta: This place was down the street from my hotel and offered one gluten-free ramen. It was complex, gourmet miso ramen. I sat at the counter and watched the cooking process. They took great care to ensure that there was no cross contamination.

Kuru Kuru: This little café is located near the north end of Philosopher’s Path. I had the curry because I wasn’t in the mood for pizza that day. It was just okay. The highlight was the gluten-free chiffon cake. Oh my, was it delicious! I took some to go.

Ramen Kazu: A standard ramen place that offered two choices of gluten-free ramen. It was just down the street from Kinkaku-ji (The Golden Temple), and I was hungry. The ramen was simple and decent but nothing to go out of your way for.

I’ll See you Soon: This cute little café caught my eye as I was walking between Kinkaku-ji and Ryoan-ji. The offerings include upscale coffee drinks and a few gluten-free desserts. I had the Tiramisu Basque Cheesecake and went to heaven. It was amazing! Be sure to stop there if you are in Kyoto!

Yes, you can be gluten free in Japan! Take some time to plan your itinerary, and please feel free to send me a message if you have any questions or comments. Happy travels!

The View Matters

November 12, 2025

Living a nomadic life for three and a half years now, I have stayed in many different places of varying size and location. There is certainly something to be said about the size of a place.

I don’t need much as a single person, but I do need to be able to move around. For example, I recently stayed in a Japanese hotel room where it was a struggle to walk around two sides of the bed because the room was tiny. I felt like I was doing parkour to close the curtains at night!

I also need enough space to fold out my yoga mat and do my thing every morning. So, a minimal amount of space to move around works for me.

If I can get a kitchenette, or at least a fridge and kettle, that’s preferable. You can’t eat out all the time.

What I learned on my trip to Japan is that the view from the window matters, too. At my first hotel in Tokyo, I was on the eleventh floor and had a view of Tokyo Bay. It was early October and still warm out. I even had a window that I could crank open a few inches. Not bad at all.

I then traveled to a few other locations in central Japan. The room that I enjoyed the most was compact but designed well. It had the tiniest kitchenette and a washing machine. But I had a view of another building. It was a little depressing. No street view—just the dull, white office building next door.

The worst was my hotel room in Kyoto. Don’t get me wrong. I loved Kyoto, and the hotel’s location was great. It was just a couple of blocks away from the Kamo River, which is a lovely place for strolling and people watching.

My room was in the back of a small hotel on a narrow street. Across from my room were residences. As a way of preserving privacy, the hotel designer put textured glass in the windows, the kind you would find in a bathroom. At first, I didn’t think it would bother me, but after a few days, I found it depressing.

Yesterday, I returned to Tokyo on my last stop before heading home. My flight is at 9:00 PM. So, I decided it would be better to get a good night’s sleep and leave my luggage safely at the hotel for the afternoon to take a final wander around the city.

I was very fortunate to get the best view of my trip, a room on the 33rd floor. I could care less that the hotel is a bit dated. The room is spacious, the bed was comfortable, and wow, what a view! I’m here milking the noon checkout time watching the sun and clouds move across the Tokyo skyline. We’ll call it the grand finale.

(More posts coming in the week ahead…)