Living a nomadic life for three and a half years now, I have stayed in many different places of varying size and location. There is certainly something to be said about the size of a place.
I don’t need much as a single person, but I do need to be able to move around. For example, I recently stayed in a Japanese hotel room where it was a struggle to walk around two sides of the bed because the room was tiny. I felt like I was doing parkour to close the curtains at night!
I also need enough space to fold out my yoga mat and do my thing every morning. So, a minimal amount of space to move around works for me.
If I can get a kitchenette, or at least a fridge and kettle, that’s preferable. You can’t eat out all the time.
What I learned on my trip to Japan is that the view from the window matters, too. At my first hotel in Tokyo, I was on the eleventh floor and had a view of Tokyo Bay. It was early October and still warm out. I even had a window that I could crank open a few inches. Not bad at all.
I then traveled to a few other locations in central Japan. The room that I enjoyed the most was compact but designed well. It had the tiniest kitchenette and a washing machine. But I had a view of another building. It was a little depressing. No street view—just the dull, white office building next door.
The worst was my hotel room in Kyoto. Don’t get me wrong. I loved Kyoto, and the hotel’s location was great. It was just a couple of blocks away from the Kamo River, which is a lovely place for strolling and people watching.
My room was in the back of a small hotel on a narrow street. Across from my room were residences. As a way of preserving privacy, the hotel designer put textured glass in the windows, the kind you would find in a bathroom. At first, I didn’t think it would bother me, but after a few days, I found it depressing.
Yesterday, I returned to Tokyo on my last stop before heading home. My flight is at 9:00 PM. So, I decided it would be better to get a good night’s sleep and leave my luggage safely at the hotel for the afternoon to take a final wander around the city.
I was very fortunate to get the best view of my trip, a room on the 33rd floor. I could care less that the hotel is a bit dated. The room is spacious, the bed was comfortable, and wow, what a view! I’m here milking the noon checkout time watching the sun and clouds move across the Tokyo skyline. We’ll call it the grand finale.
As 2025 begins, it’s time to reflect on my second full year as a nomad.
The biggest questions are, “Am I happy with the nomadic lifestyle? Was this the right choice?”
Yes! Absolutely. I tell people that my life is 90% wonderful. I wouldn’t have said that three years ago. In fact, I was pretty miserable and felt trapped by my career and home ownership.
I never thought I would be so happy to be unemployed. (I’m not quite retired; I just decided to quit working and make some lifestyle changes two and a half years ago.) I wake up grateful every day for the sights that I get to see, the people and pets I meet, and a more relaxed lifestyle.
Highlights of 2024
House and Pet sitting: The main thing that keeps me on a reasonable budget. Think about it; I’m not paying rent or utilities for half the year. I house and pet-sat for 164 days last year. That included one “pet less” sit of seven weeks. I used that time to take online courses and renew my teaching certificate. (Even though I don’t plan to teach full-time again, allowing my cert to lapse would be careless.) My favorites sits are still the “one-dog sits.” Single dogs tend to be good company, and at least one daily walk is guaranteed.
Hawaii: I love the Hawaiian Islands! Thanks to a two-week sit, I was able to enjoy several weeks in the islands this year. It has become a regular thing for me to visit in late August and September.
The Greek Islands: There are over 200 islands to explore in Greece, and I saw seven more of them this past spring, increasing my list to eleven. I started with three weeks on Kos, where I was volunteering. Volunteering didn’t go well, but I saw much of the island. The weeklong yoga and Zen meditation retreat on Sérifos was most certainly a highlight! After the retreat, I spent nearly three weeks walking and hiking on Sifnos, Naxos, and Tinos. I also took day trips to Kalymnos and Nisyros while on Kos.
Scandinavia: I have been waiting a long time to visit Scandinavia and decided to make it happen. It is not the most budget-friendly place, so I could only enjoy three weeks, visiting Copenhagen, Gothenburg, and Oslo. I also saw some of the Norwegian coast on a weeklong cruise (Yes, the cruise was cheaper than staying on land.) I loved Geiranger and enjoyed Kristiansand and Stavanger. In fact, I at least liked every location in Scandinavia. Gothenburg was number one, though.
Cruises: I ended up taking two very different cruises in 2024. In June, I cruised up the coast of Norway from Copenhagen. The best parts were the wonderful people I met and the day cruising Geiranger Fjord. The food and entertainment were mediocre. I cruised on Celebrity Edge from Honolulu to Sydney in October, a much better experience. Edge is a newer ship with a more upscale yet relaxed vibe. The food was sensational, and the service was excellent! And I had no trouble keeping busy on the sea days.
Australia and New Zealand: More on my bucket list! I thoroughly enjoyed Sydney and the spots I was able to see in Australia. I even visited new friends I had met while traveling last year. But New Zealand—wow! I loved every place that I visited.
Plans for 2025
Continue housesitting and pet-sitting: I have been pet sitting since the middle of December when I arrived home from Australia and New Zealand. And I will spend most of my days on sits through late March. All of my upcoming sits are for friends and family, so I can invite people to visit. I’m currently enjoying a New Year’s sit with a sweet little dog in a gorgeous bayfront house. If it were an Airbnb, it would run about $2500-3000 for this week.
Continue to seek volunteer opportunities: I had a successful one-day volunteer gig last summer, but my longer volunteer situation was less than ideal. That doesn’t mean I’m giving up, though!
Transitioning from laptop to iPad: My kids bought me an iPad for Christmas! Since it’s a little lighter and more compact, I plan to use it as my primary computer while traveling. I have previously used one in my teaching career, but I always had a PC on hand, too. Old habits are hard to break.
Learning Croatian: It’s time for me to pick up another language and learn something new. Since it is part of my ethnic background, I have decided to dedicate time this summer to learning the language in Croatia. I’m beginning my online courses today!
More Cruises: The Panama Canal has been near the top of my bucket list, and I found a great rate on a cruise that fit my schedule. I’ll leave from Los Angeles, just a short plane ride from Seattle. Then, nine days after arriving in Florida, I will get on another ship from Florida to Barcelona. The transatlantic cruise will be with a group of fellow travelers/nomads. Very much looking forward to that!
Asia: I plan to revisit New Zealand and see some of Asia in the autumn and early winter. I might go minimalist with just a backpack for that one.
I continue to be grateful for the opportunities that this lifestyle gives me. Friends and family members continue to be supportive; I really couldn’t do this without them! It’s not perfect, and a part of me would love to have a permanent home, but that will happen when the time is right. As time passes, I feel more settled with the decision to be nomadic and roll with the year’s rhythms. I have been able to visit with friends and family for the holidays and continue to have quality time with my adult children when I’m in my house sitting in Washington. It’s a good life!
October 23, 2024 I just disembarked from my first long cruise. Previously, I had cruised for a week at a time. Many of my nomad-traveler friends take advantage of the bargain rates on repositioning cruises, so I decided to give it a try. Nearly a year ago, an acquaintance contacted me to see if I could housesit for her for two weeks in September…in Hawaii. It was an easy yes, and I decided to check off a couple of items from the Bucket List: Australia and New Zealand. Thus began the search for the best cruise from Honolulu to Sydney. I chose Celebrity Edge for several reasons. I’ve always enjoyed the quality of the line, and Edge is in their newest class of ships. The dates fit well into my itinerary, too.
But 18 days at sea with only six port days? This would be a good test to see if I enjoyed the sea days.
First, the ship is gorgeous. I’d say it’s a little classier and more understated than other Celebrity and Royal Caribbean ships I had previously experienced. There are sections dedicated to art displays, and the main atrium is a few stories high rather than a dozen.
The veranda rooms have an infinite veranda, which makes the room feel larger because the veranda is an extension of the room. The outside wall consists of two windows, and the top one can be retracted to form a glass balcony. Storage in the room is abundant and carefully designed to use every inch of possible space. Instead of one large dining room, there are four themed restaurants. Initially, I received a late dining time of 8:15, but on the first night, the hostess switched me to freestyle dining. I could then eat at any restaurant anytime between 5:30 and 8:30. Some nights, I joined new friends for dinner but mostly settled into a 6:30ish dinner time at Tuscan, the Italian-themed restaurant. I connected with one waiter, who was in tune with my dietary needs as a person with Celiac disease. Most nights, I preordered for the next evening. I ate breakfast and lunch in Oceanview Café, the ship’s buffet restaurant. The offerings were extensive, with some sections consistently offering the same foods and others offering specialized dishes. All the dishes were labeled for allergies so I could safely find abundant gluten-free items. There was also a vegan section, and the Indian food quickly became a lunchtime favorite. The only disappointment was the gluten-free mini-cakes. They tended to be dry and hard. Other than that, I ate well! As far as extras are concerned, I splurged on a spa pass for the duration of the journey. On sea days, I worked out in the mornings doing yoga, weights, and the elliptical trainer. Then, I enjoyed the salt room, infrared sauna, steam rooms, and therapeutic showers. It was a great way to start each day!
I had a view of these golden penguins from the sauna!
Entertainment on the ship was abundant and mostly of high quality. There were educational lectures every morning about the environment, the ship’s destinations, and math and science. Ongoing classes included ukelele and drawing. There were game shows, trivia, and a featured show each night. Throughout the ship, various musicians and singers performed in the bars and lounges.
The Eden Bar was filled with plants.
So, would I go on a repositioning cruise again? Yes! I have already booked a transatlantic cruise from Florida to Barcelona for next April. This time, I will be traveling with some fellow nomads. Looking forward to more fun on the high seas!
I recently spent twelve days in Sydney, Australia. Going Down Under has long been on my bucket list. In fact, my fascination with Sydney began in childhood, long before I caught the travel bug on my first European adventure as a university student.
You see, the Sydney Opera House was completed in 1973 when I was in elementary school. I can’t remember the exact circumstances or where I first saw a picture of that iconic building. Still, I know I had waited over fifty years to see it. Add fascinating animals like kangaroos and koalas (I had a beloved stuffed koala bear as a child). Who wouldn’t want to visit Australia?
About a year ago, an acquaintance contacted me to see if I would be able to housesit in her Hawaiian home for two weeks. It only seemed logical to travel to Australia from there.
Many of my nomad friends enjoy traveling on repositioning cruises. Maybe I could get to Australia that way. I found one that left Honolulu for Sydney, and I commenced planning a great adventure from there.
After spending six weeks on four Hawaiian Islands, I boarded Celebrity Edge for an 18-day journey.
First, it was so very nice to arrive in a far-off country and not experience jetlag. The owner of my Airbnb said it had been vacant the night before, so I could head straight there after the morning departure from the ship.
Getting to my accommodation was amazingly simple. Circular Quay, the downtown hub for the passenger ferries, was adjacent to the cruise ship berth. It took just a few minutes to walk over to the correct wharf, and in 15 minutes, I arrived at Kurraba Point, where my little studio apartment was waiting.
The funny thing (okay, not really funny) was that there were 88 stairs to climb from the wharf to the street. No small feat with my luggage!
After checking out part of Sydney’s expansive (and stunning) botanical gardens, I met up with a couple of friends from the cruise. We walked around the heart of the city and found a great hole-in-the-wall Thai restaurant for lunch.
From there, the next eleven days were filled with wonderful outings in one of the World’s greatest cities. I will admit that I still have much of the planet to see, but nothing in Europe or North America can compare.
What makes Sydney special? The city is built around an expansive harbor. There’s a definite charm in traveling almost everywhere by ferry.
The Opera House and Harbor Bridge gloriously welcome visitors to the city center. I was fortunate to see it right before dawn from the ship! (opening photo) I also took an architectural tour a few days later and saw the Sydney Symphony perform that evening. Childhood dream fulfilled!
The Opera House is covered with more than one million tiles!
Photo taken after the performance
The botanical garden is immense and adjacent to the city center. The grounds are impeccably maintained. I visited several times during my stay.
The National Gallery has something for everyone, with two buildings, one housing the modern collection.
You can take a ferry to the zoo at Taronga Point.
There are National Parks within the city limits. Yes, you can walk/hike to your heart’s content, and the views are stunning.
You can get from downtown to beautiful beaches in half an hour. Bondi and Manly are the most well-known. Be sure to take the scenic walk from Bondi to Tamarama Beach. I was fortunate to be there during the Sculpture by the Sea event!
The central business district is lively, clean, and feels safe.
Darling Harbor is modern, lively, and inviting.
You can easily hop on a train and arrive in the Blue Mountains in about two hours.
Incredible restaurants! I truly did not have one disappointing meal. Some recommendations: Sydney Café (Don’t let the name fool you. It is an elegant yet comfortable restaurant overlooking Sydney Harbor.) Yellow (Gourmet vegan that can’t be beat! I thoroughly enjoyed the seven-course meal. Even if you aren’t vegan, I strongly suggest you experience it!) Grana (Farm-to-table deliciousness in a lively and welcoming atmosphere.) Somehow, I don’t have any photos of all that delicious food. I guess I was too busy eating!
Bonus: Sydney is the place to go if you are gluten-free or Celiac. Every restaurant and café had options for me. I’m not sure if this is a good thing because I kept finding bakeries to try.
There are lots of little gems around the city if you keep your eyes open. Nutcote, the home of author May Gibbs, was a few blocks away from my accommodation. I happened to walk by just as a tour was beginning.
May had quite a view!
The views from the area around Watson’s Bay were my favorites.
I could go on and on as I have at least a thousand pictures of Sydney. If you’ve never been, I can’t recommend it highly enough!
November 28, 2024 If you have never been to New Zealand, you probably haven’t heard of Greymouth. It’s a small town on the west coast of the South Island with a history of gold mining, coal mining, forestry, and fishing. It’s also near the location where the Māori first arrived about a thousand years ago. If that doesn’t sound exciting enough, I’m about to convince you to visit.
First, it is the western destination of the Tranzalpine Scenic Railway, which departs from Christchurch. It is one of the most scenic train rides in the World! Some people make the return trip in one day, but I advise against it.
Why would you turn around in less than an hour, making for a very long day on the train, when there is so much to see and do in the area? I must admit that when I first arrived in Greymouth, I thought I may have made a mistake. Why had I booked three nights in this rather sad-looking town?
View of Greymouth from the King Domain hiking trail
I could see that they were trying to attract visitors, but it’s a bit of a work in progress. There are some nice-looking restaurants and shops as well as some beautiful murals in town, but many of the buildings could use some work.
I knew I would be walking and hiking. There were several possibilities, but I needed to book an excursion to see more of the surrounding area. You see, I had been traveling for over three months at this point and somehow neglected to make solid plans for Greymouth. Then I got lucky. My host had left a folder of things to do and see. I noticed that there was a locally run day tour up the coast and around several locations. When I went to book online. It looked like I may be the only one signed up for tomorrow’s tour. Would I be getting a call or email message to cancel?
The next morning, I met Jackie, my guide for the day. She greeted me enthusiastically and confirmed that I was her only guest for the day. She asked about my dietary needs (I’m celiac/gluten-free), and I informed her that I wasn’t much of a drinker. (A stop at a local brewery and distillery were part of the tour.) Not a problem! Jackie adapted the tour to suit me.
After a stop at a viewpoint, our first main stop was at Punakaiki for the National Park Visitors Center and Pancake Rock and Blowholes. During our walk through the Pancake Rocks and Blowholes, Jackie shared her knowledge of plants and birds. I learned all about the Kea, and we saw the Weka close-up.
The walk was incredible; one of the most beautiful coastal areas I’ve ever seen! The water was relatively calm, so the blowholes weren’t very active. I wasn’t complaining about the lack of wind, though. The Visitor’s Center was new and sparkling, with a newly opened Ponamu Pathways experience. These interactive experiences were created in cooperation with Weta World, the folks who made the Lord of the Rings movies.
After that, we made our way to Tauranga Bay to see the stunning beach and seal colony. The first of this year’s new pups had just been born and were making some noise down below. Jackie had names for the male seals and told me many more females would arrive soon to give birth.
The next stop was lunch—yes! I have yet to eat a bad meal, and PR’s Cafe didn’t disappoint. I had pumpkin-orange soup and bread. It truly hit the spot.
From there, we drove through Buller Gorge, essentially running between two national parks.
We stopped in Reefton to see the site where community members are recreating the country’s first power plant. (Yes, little Reefton on the sparsely populated West Coast was the site of New Zealand’s first power plant.) When complete, it will power the streetlights in town. The walk included a river crossing on an old-style swing bridge.
Reefton is a recreational hub with oodles of hiking trails near town. Our last main stop was the Brunner Mine site. Sadly, it is the site of New Zealand’s biggest mining tragedy, where 65 men lost their lives in an explosion back in 1896. The mining operation was shut down and the land was left to regenerate to its natural state.
She was knowledgeable and remained enthusiastic throughout the day. I could tell she loves her job. I hope I’ve convinced you to visit Greymouth and the West Coast. Say hello to Jackie for me!
Even though I left my profession more than two years ago, I still battle some guilt and anxiety for not working. On the outside, I see how silly I am because my main motivations to retire early were to enjoy a simpler life, lower my stress level, and travel. I chose this nomadic lifestyle but often punish myself for being too lazy. When I’m not planning adventures or experiencing new places, I sometimes feel like I should be working at a paying job.
Last June, when I was wandering through Oslo’s stunning library, Deichman Bjørvika, I spotted a book in English called Laziness Does Not Exist by Devon Price, PhD. The cover’s bold yellow, orange, and red color blocks caught my attention, as did the title. I snapped a photo, intending to download a copy when I returned to the States in July.
Funny that I would encounter the book in a foreign country. By the way, if you are ever in Oslo, be sure to go inside Deichman Bjørvika. Its exterior is captivating, but the interior is a marvel. You can even buy a coffee or lunch and enjoy the view from the lounge. And, of course, admission is free.
So, back to the book. I finally started listening to the audiobook a couple of days ago. I am currently housesitting on the Big Island of Hawaii. After playing tourist for a week, I am settled in for two weeks in a cozy house with a sweet old cat. I can literally do anything I want with my days as long as I feed the cat, give him some attention, and take care of a few household chores.
The author, Price, coins the term “laziness lie,” citing that we, as Americans, have basically been programmed to believe that we are useless if we are not productive. (If you haven’t read it yet, I highly recommend it.)
A chapter I listened to today spoke to the idea of savoring. Much of the book had resonated with my former overworked, over-stressed self, but this chapter spoke to me today. It gave me permission to enjoy the present moment and savor every little thing:
The soft fur of this sweet old cat.
The view of Mauna Kea that appears and disappears as the clouds roll by.
The taste of fresh local produce.
We all can get wrapped up in comparing ourselves to others and feeling pressure to report our activities on social media. I admit that I think about what to post on Facebook and feel a need to keep my friends entertained with my travel adventures. But really, it doesn’t matter what other people think; I can set aside the pressure and just share what I like.
I’m now going to focus more on savoring and less on guilt. Thanks, Dr. Price!
I recently spent three weeks in Scandinavia. It was a sampler trip, my first visit to explore the region. I have to say, I loved it! Beautiful scenery, water, islands, and history-filled cities—my kind of stuff. My time included a cruise from Copenhagen up the Norwegian coast and through the Geiranger Fjord. The scenery was stunning, and the town of Geiranger was charming. I also visited Oslo and Copenhagen.
But the highlight of my visit was Gothenburg, Sweden. I chose it over Stockholm, partly because it was in a more accessible location and partly because it was smaller. Gothenburg is one of those “just right” European cities. It’s not too big, but there’s plenty to see and do. It’s mostly walkable, and you can also get around using the charming trams throughout the city. I arrived from Copenhagen by train. Just steps away, I found the tram station, hopped on, and rode to my accommodation for the next few nights.
It was a change from the studio apartments I typically rent. I had a private room and bathroom, but the building had a shared kitchen. I figured it must have been student housing before the large, modern dorms were built.
My corner room had a high cozy factor; the bed was amazingly comfortable, and look at that cute vintage-style refrigerator! I didn’t mind walking down one flight of stairs to use the kitchen since the room had a full tea and coffee service.
The brick building was charming, with well-kept grounds. I had a corner room with views in two directions.
Gothenburg’s city center is walkable and has everything you could want. The public market is upscale, with shops and restaurants. Gluten-free people like myself will be happy to find several baked good options at Steinbrenner & Nyberg. A walk through the historic Haga neighborhood is a must. There are cute shops selling Swedish products and cafés everywhere. Again, I found some yummy gluten-free treats at Café Husaren and enjoyed a gluten-free and vegan lunch at En Deli Haga.
If you love public gardens like I do, you’ll love Gothenburg. Tradgardsforeningen, or The Garden Society, is near the heart of the city. One thing I love is that it was created in the 1800s by the citizens (which also makes it one of the oldest public gardens in Europe). They sold memberships to create beautiful grounds for all to enjoy. I also visited the garden café and had an exquisite salmon lunch.
The Botanical Garden is a short distance from the city center, but you can easily reach it by tram. It is expansive, and you will get your steps in for the day. If you visit, take the short hike up to the viewpoint. You could spend a good part of a day wandering the grounds. It is one of the most exquisite botanical gardens I have ever visited.
You won’t pay an admission fee for either garden, but you can leave a donation. In addition to the gardens, you will find numerous parks throughout the city, some with fantastic viewpoints. My favorite was Skansen Kronan, where you will see a historic fortress and enjoy a nice view of the city.
Then, there’s Slottsskogen, the massive park at the edge of the city near the Botanical Garden.
One day, I took tram #11 to the end of the line to catch a passenger ferry to Styrso Island. The islands in the archipelago generally don’t have cars. Most people get around on bicycles and golf carts. I enjoyed a wander around the island. If I were to return, I would definitely spend more time on the islands.
Another highlight was the newly constructed World of Volvo. I’m not generally a car museum person, but my family has a particular affinity for them. If you’re into architecture, it’s worth a visit to step inside the gorgeous five-story structure. The museum is on the third floor, but be sure to wander around the rest of the building. It is truly an architectural marvel!
Volvo’s 1976 electric car!
Amusement park fans will find Liseberg just a couple of blocks from the World of Volvo. It’s not my thing, but the hundred-year-old park is a favorite destination for many. So, I say, let everyone else visit Oslo and Copenhagen, and we’ll keep Gothenburg our little secret.
I’ve spent the past several days on the beautiful island of Tinos. It had been on my list of Greek islands to visit, partly because it boasts over 300 kilometers of hiking trails.
My favorite mode of travel is by foot. I don’t roam the world with a big backpack; I’m a day hiker and city walker. One can see so much more while walking, and I love the serenity of roaming the countryside.
Day One:
On my first full day on Tinos, I took a short, easy walk from Chora (the port town and capital) to Kiona. This one was more of a walking route than a trail, but the scenery along the coast was gorgeous! Kiona pretty much consists of a beach and a historic site. If you’re into history like I am, you will want to pay the 3-euro fee and take a look at the Sanctuary of Poseidon and Amphitrite. The ruins date back to the 4th and 2nd centuries BC. Quite impressive!
On the way to Kiona, I spotted a lovely little beach next to the church on the old harbor. I stopped for a swim on the way back, which was divine.
Day Two:
I started from the central bus station by the port and rode up to Arnados to begin my hike. The route took me to the Monastery Koimisis Theotokou, Mountados, Karya, and Triptamos. From there, I hiked back down to Chora. It was a long day of hiking, and the winds were blowing at 20-30 mph with gusts over 40. In total, I calculated about 12 kilometers for the day.
Arnados was my first mountain village. Each village has its own charm, and Arnados is lovely. The walking route guided me through the town and out to the road toward the monastery.
Along the way, I saw some steps heading uphill. I had time, so why not check it out? (I tend to do things like this.)
After climbing up the steps, dodging thistles all the way, I arrived at the remains of a windmill. The ancient path continued up, but I had an extensive itinerary planned for the day and headed back to the road.
I had made the mistake of leaving my big scarf back at my apartment, so I was not allowed to enter the monastery. (The scarf can be wrapped around to substitute for a skirt. Women are prohibited from entering monasteries in shorts, even knee-length ones.) I walked the grounds a bit and continued.
The path led downhill to a small church. Then, the trail markers disappeared. I relied on Google Maps for a walking route and ran into fenced-off spots at a couple of points. I wonder if farmers were trying to keep livestock in or tourists out!
Back on the road, I continued on the route to Mountados. This one is not to be missed! The route takes you down into the village and back up and out. You will be charmed at every turn.
I took a break here, at what used to be the community washing site, to escape the wind and rest my feet.
The next village, Karya, was not far down the road. Right on the walking route, you will come to Taverna Kapua. If you’re hungry or thirsty, stop for a break. The owners are friendly, and the dog is sweet!
The path took me up through Karya. I arrived at an inviting plaza in front of the church. There were trail markers and a map. I didn’t want to add distance to my route, so I headed back down toward Triptamos.
By the time I reached Triptamos, my feet were hoping that I was almost home. Of course, I couldn’t bypass the village, so down the steps I went. Again, the town was very sleepy, with hardly a soul to be found. There was a cute inn, but I didn’t see any restaurants.
I walked up and out of the village to find the route back to Chora. I went down a small side road, hoping it was the way to the T1 trail. Yes, it was!
The scenery on the way down was beautiful, and partway there, I came to this church. It was unique because it was painted blue (not white) and had two alcoves. Not far from the church was an abandoned building. My best guess was that it was an abandoned monastery.
As I approached Chora, I encountered my first fellow human hikers of the day. We waved hello and carried on. I also encountered some of those +40 gusts as I approached my apartment. The wind was so strong it nearly knocked me down at a couple of points.
Day Three:
I took the other bus (There are only two routes) up to the northern end of the island to Pyrgos. Pyrgos is known as one of the prettiest towns on the island, and I agree. It is cute and inviting for the tourist crowd. Unlike some of the other villages, it has several cafes, restaurants, and shops. It’s also home to a few museums showcasing marble crafting.
From Pyrgos, I walked the road to Panormos on the coast. There’s an inviting beach and an extensive marina. I had my best lunch of the week at Tama. There are several restaurants to choose from, so maybe shop a little in Pyrgos and have lunch at Panormos.
The day’s highlight was the hike back to Pyrgos on the E2 trail. After walking back behind the town, you quickly climb the mountain and enjoy stunning views of the coastline, Panormos, and the surrounding area. Along the ancient path, you will encounter the remains of old windmills, several stone dwellings, and goats.
Day Four:
Back on the original bus, I rode to Falatados to hike the M2 Trail. This is known as the Geo Route because you soon find yourself surrounded by boulders. The route is also quite green, so I felt like I had been transported to a different island. Walking toward Volax, you see the Aegean from the coast opposite Chora.
Volax can’t be reached by public bus, but it is one of the best tourist stops. It’s a picturesque village with cafes and artists’ shops. I lingered for a while, chatting with a couple of the artists.
Continuing on the M2 Route, you will find an interesting church in the rocks. Be sure to go inside this one, as it is unique.
Unfortunately, I kept hiking up past the church. Eventually, I realized I had lost the route (I was supposed to return to the dirt road). I did get to see these two cute tiny churches, though! And the goats kept me company as I used their trails to get back to the road.
The trail continues in a loop to Mirsini and back to Falatados. I missed the connection and ended up walking the road in the wrong direction. (It was my day to get lost!) I had fun strolling among the boulders with the goats and saw some of the island’s vineyards, so no big loss. I do have a tendency to get caught up in the moment; part of the love of wandering!
When I realized my error, I didn’t have time to get back and complete the M2 trail. I made my way back to Falatados on the road in time for the afternoon bus.
Day Five, Last Full Day in Tinos:
I was tired. My legs and feet were in no mood for one more day of hiking. I opted to take the bus to Kardiani, the last village that I wanted to see. It is situated on a mountainside, and it is beautiful! From the moment that I stepped off the bus, it was all stairs! So much for my day off. Kardiani had some unique features, including two springs and three gorgeous plazas.
The trail will take you down to the seaside if you are up for the climb back. You can also hike to Isternia for more captivating views and marble crafting. I will have to save that trek for a future trip.
Kardiani is charming, but like many villages, little is going on. The café/grocery store (one place) was closed. One restaurant was open, and it had fabulous views out to the Aegean. It was also completely covered in vines—very cool! The prices were reasonable, and the service was very good.
The problem with visiting Kardiani by bus was that I had to wait about four hours for the next bus to return. It happened to be a hot day, so the wait felt very long.
Resources: The Tinos Trails Website was incredibly helpful. Home – Tinos Trails There are descriptions of each trail with photos and maps. (I know, how did I get lost?)
Be sure to consult the KTEA bus station for the latest schedules. Apparently, they change quite frequently. And have fun hiking on Tinos!
I’ve spent the past three weeks in the Cyclades, a circle of Greek islands south of Athens. My original plans did not include Sifnos, but sometimes, Greek ferry schedules cause itinerary changes. I could not go directly from Serifos to Naxos, but I could get a ferry to Sifnos and travel to Naxos from there. Rather than just stopping on Sifnos, I decided to book two nights and cut short my stay on Naxos.
So glad I did! Sifnos is a day hiker’s dream. From the moment I arrived, I knew that I would want to stay longer. I had just spent a week at a yoga and meditation retreat on Serifos, and one of my fellow participants was on the ferry with me. She had plans to meet a friend who was arriving later in the day, so we stopped at the tourist information office before getting lunch. The gentleman working there was cordial and helpful. I immediately spotted the hiking trail map and knew I needed no further information. He showed us some of the most popular sights on the island. My new friend had some questions, so I excused myself and checked in at the office where I would get my apartment key. They said I’d be able to check in by 2:00 PM, so I went back to the tourist office to find my friend.
She and I enjoyed a lunch of Greek salad and chickpea soup. The soup is an island specialty; you must try it if you visit! Then she was off to explore the ceramics shops, and I went to get settled in my new place. There wasn’t time for a hike that afternoon. Well, I could have hiked, but I wanted to rest. And the beach was calling me out for an afternoon swim! I had my plan set for the morning, though. At 7:15, I took the first bus of the day up to Apollonia. Upon arrival, I spotted the display just for hikers. I was pretty excited, my kind of island! I took the #3 trail through town and onto an ancient path. It was well-marked most of the way.
I stopped at the Panagia Vrsis Monastery. No one was around except for a dog, barking on my arrival.
I noticed the ancient door was open a crack and walked in. Still, I saw no one. A little eerie but quite beautiful. I took a quick tour and got back on my route.
I eventually arrived in Platis Yialos on the beach. I took a snack break at a little park where a local man was getting his workout. I had to contain my giggles as he grunted his way through. Then, he broke out in song. Quite entertaining! I continued walking up the beach road toward Chrisopigi Monastery. Its location on a rock in the Aegean is one of the island’s highlights.
Around the bend from the monastery lies an inviting beach. It was nearly noon, and I stopped at the beachside taverna for something to eat. Yes! The chickpea soup was on the menu. This version was more like stew and made good fuel to continue the journey. It came with a quarter of a lemon. I have to say, the flavor is magical. (Sorry, I deleted the soup photo!)
I didn’t walk much further, though. I took the #2 trail along the beach and up to another little church before heading to Faros. At that point, I would have had to put in some significant distance to get to a bus stop. I opted for a taxi back to Kamares instead.
My driver was entertaining, playing Greek music for me. We took a side trip to Apollonia so he could pick up some luggage to bring to the ferry port. He pointed me to the local sweets shop to get a treat while he got the suitcases. I had already decided to return, but he confirmed that I must see more of the island someday. I returned to my little apartment in time for an evening swim before dinner. Such a lovely beach! Even though I only spent one day hiking on Sifnos, I’m grateful for the experience. When I return, I will stay in Apollonia, as I can start several different hikes from there.
When planning extended trips abroad, I make a somewhat detailed plan and reserve accommodations a few months ahead of time. But I have learned to make reservations that can be canceled because plans change.
A couple of weeks ago, I made such a change. I decided to leave the island of Kos early and head to mainland Greece before a week-long retreat. I won’t go into detail about why I left Kos early—Kos has a lot to offer, and I recommend a visit.
A friend of mine raves about Meteora and was perhaps a little disappointed that I hadn’t planned to go there on my second Greek adventure. Well, change of plans; time to see Meteora!
If you’ve never been or never seen pictures, Meteora is out-of-this world! Dating back at least 1000 years, religious folks have been inclined to dwell there. Hermits have lived in the caves on the towering rocks, and Greek Orthodox monks have built beautiful monasteries on top of the rocks. At one time, there were 24 monasteries. There are now only 6 active monasteries remaining.
Fair warning: even if you take a tour bus, you need to be ready to walk some slopes and climb some stairs. St. Stephens is the only one with easy access.
I stayed in Kalabaka with the intention of hiking to the monasteries. I ended up cheating a bit but was very happy with my experience.
First, I got lucky with a last-minute booking. If you know me, you know that I mostly stay in studio apartments so I can cook my own food. With Celiac disease, it’s easier, and I save time and money. I then have the freedom to eat out when I choose.
My apartment was quite spacious with a view of St. Stephens, one of the two nunneries. The long balcony was shaded all afternoon, allowing me the perfect place to rest.
Hiking Day One
I started from my apartment at about 8:00 AM and took the trail up to Holy Trinity Monastery. It’s a pleasant path, shady most of the way, which is helpful as you gain altitude.
On my way up, I encountered first an older Greek man and then a younger Greek man, both on their way down. Then a young American man passed me going up. I told him that I was preserving my energy for the day, and he said, “You look great!” Nice to get some motivation from a stranger.
When you get to the top of the trail, there are still over 100 stairs to conquer before reaching the monastery. Even though the sign said that it opened at 10:00, a few of us were entering before 9:30.
Holy Trinity is probably the most photographed of Meteora’s monasteries. It sits rather perfectly on top of its rock. (I took this photo the next day from a different angle.)
In the garden area, I saw the young American man again. We sat and conversed for about half an hour. It was a much-needed break. He said he was heading to St. Stephens next. I didn’t walk with him but had the same plan.
So, down the stairs and up the long, paved walkway I went. I saw a path to the right and figured it was a way to avoid walking the road. Thankfully, it was, and I reached St. Stephens about 40 minutes later.
By then, the tour buses had arrived. I was grateful to have had the quiet, uncrowded experience at Holy Trinity. I briefly encountered the young American man and exchanged a few words.
Even though it was crowded, St. Stephens is beautiful, and all the monasteries have wonderful views. St. Stephens also had an interesting gift shop that included some items made by the nuns. I asked questions about the products, and the nun seemed pleased by my interest. The St. John’s Wort oil that I bought does seem to work well for massaging sore muscles!
I started walking toward the other monasteries and realized that I needed to save some energy for the next two days. I ended up taking the trail back to town and my apartment.
Hiking Day Two
I decided to walk through the smaller town, Kastraki, to reach some of the other monasteries. As I walked through, I decided that if I returned, I would stay in Kastraki. It’s smaller than Kalabaka and has a calmer vibe. The homes are well-kept, and there are oodles of flowers.
I got distracted by some ruins of a monastery on the side of a rock and decided to take that smaller, less-traveled road. Looking at Google Maps, I figured I could take a trail to cut back through. I was ready for an adventure anyway.
I ended up visiting a monastery that was out in the country and not built on top of a rock. The monk was very welcoming, and I had a unique experience where I sat down and chatted with him in limited English. He offered me cookies and coffee. I tried to explain my celiac disease, and at first, he thought I was diabetic. Google translator helped a bit! I was grateful for the experience as he said they only get a few visitors a day at most. (On Google Maps, the name of the monastery was only in Greek; so, I can’t add it here. Sorry.)
I then continued, trying to make a loop. I stopped at a tiny church that was locked. Bummer. A well-marked bike trail eventually got me back to a main road.
I survived with just one blister on my big toe. My best estimate is that I hiked about 12 miles.
By the time I arrived back at the apartment, I had about 90 minutes to eat, rest, and shower before my sunset tour. (It began at 3:45.) I got to see Saint Nicholas Monastery (more stairs to climb) and saw the exterior of the other monasteries. The sunset wasn’t exactly spectacular, but our bus driver and tour guide were! It was a minibus with only 18 passengers, so we had a personalized experience. We also saw some things that I wouldn’t have been looking for on my own.
St. Nicholas from the parking area
Views from St. Nicholas
11th Century Byzantine church in Kalapaka
Abandoned monastery
Hiking Day Three
I figured out a plan to go for a walk while preserving my blistered toe and visit the last must-see monastery on my list.
I took a taxi up to Roussanou, the other nunnery, and wore my sneakers instead of my hikers. As predicted, Roussanou was the prettiest of all. The garden was stunning, and the grounds were well-kept. Inside the church, people were lighting candles and praying. It was a beautiful experience.
Looking back up at Roussanou as I walked down the road
After the visit, I walked down the winding hill at a leisurely pace. I stopped to take photos that you’d never get from a tour bus and took a nice break in the old town section of Kastraki.
My plan worked out well, and my feet were thankful for the shorter itinerary.
I saw several bicyclists making their way uphill and ran into two Spanish men my age toward the end of my walk. They were excited that I spoke Spanish, and I helped them in the right direction. They were getting started in the heat of the day; it was 11:40 by then. I was glad to be headed back.
As I reached Kalabaka, I stopped at the Digital Projection Center to watch the 3D films. One was about Mt. Olympus and the other two were about Meteora. Well worth the three-euro admission. The tour guide from last night had recommended it.
After yesterday’s long day of walking, I felt like I needed to catch up on eating. I stopped at Taverna Yamas for some fresh and tasty food. I had shrimp swimming in olive oil and tomato sauce topped with feta, and grilled mushrooms with balsamic. Both were delicious. I was so busy eating; I didn’t even share any shrimp with the cat who was patiently waiting.
For me, Meteora was an amazing place that everyone should see if they can. We’re talking bucket list like the Grand Canyon or Machu Picchu. I would happily go back to experience it again. I hope you see it someday, too!
Wandering Shannon 