October 9, 2023 Sometimes, I can’t believe how many beautiful places I see in a short time while traveling.
Yesterday, I once again visited an incredibly beautiful place, Vintgar Gorge, near Lake Bled, Slovenia. Slovenia is entirely new to me. This is my first visit. I took a nice long stretch of six days to hang out in Ljubljana, the capital. As capital cities go, it is on the small side and has a chill vibe. The Ljubljanica River that runs through the city was carefully planned to be pedestrian friendly. There are oodles of bars, restaurants, and sitting spots to people-watch.
I visited a museum a day, all fantastic, and enjoyed walks up by the castle and through Tivoli Park.
The “Open Kitchen” food festival lasts from 10:00 AM to 9:00 PM on Fridays, spring through autumn.
Not to mention, there’s the daily market square filled with fresh produce and flowers.
Two days ago, I arrived in Lake Bled. Wow! It is the quintessential European mountain fantasy town with a castle high on a rock cliff and an island in the lake with a church. It has a touristy vibe but doesn’t feel as overrun as Windermere in England’s Lakes District.
Yesterday, I took a shuttle out to nearby Vintgar Gorge. My expectations were low since I had recently visited Plitvice Lakes National Park in Croatia. It was another of those better-than-expected experiences. I think the fact that we are now in October helped, too. The trail along the gorge wasn’t especially crowded, even though it was a Sunday. The fall colors also enhanced the crystal-clear waters. Enjoy the photos and be sure to add Lake Bled and Vintgar Gorge to your Slovenian itinerary!
When you’re retired and living a nomadic life, it’s easy to forget which day it is.
I arrived in Lake Bled, Slovenia, at lunchtime on Saturday. If you’ve ever been here or seen pictures, you know it is an enchanting place. It’s easy to forget the day of the week when you’ve arrived in a fairy tale.
After getting off the bus, I rolled my suitcase down to the lake and caught the first glimpse of the castle. It was a warm autumn day, around 72 degrees. Check-in was at 3:00, so a nice open-air lunch was the answer.
Not only did I get a healthy and delicious salad, but it was the first place I had encountered in Slovenia with gluten-free beer on the menu. What could be more perfect? Celiac’s delight!
After walking down along the lake for fifteen minutes or so (not a exactly a fantasy with a suitcase in tow), I arrived at the apartment at precisely 2:59.
After getting settled, I walked to the nearby grocery store to pick up some items for dinner and breakfast. It was one of those barely stocked places. No eggs and very little in the way of quality produce. It would be a simple soup night. I figured I’d go out for breakfast.
Then, it was time to walk around the rest of the lake’s perimeter. From the apartment, the views of the little island with the church kept getting better and better. On top of that, church bells were ringing from two directions.
Eventually, I ascended to the castle and, to continue the fantasy, there was a wedding! (Sorry. I didn’t take pictures of the wedding.)
Forgetting that night was coming earlier and earlier, I stayed up at the castle grounds to watch the beginning of sunset. Ah…
When I woke up the next day, I thought I could get breakfast at one of the two restaurants nearby. Nope.
I went to the first place, and all that was offered were beverages. At least I could enjoy a nice cup of tea. Strange that a restaurant with a hotel attached did not serve breakfast. These things happen while traveling in the off season, though.
I checked over at the other restaurant. The owner and a friend were sitting down having a smoke and coffee. No, they weren’t serving breakfast, either. She suggested I walk into town for a nice breakfast at the bakery. That wouldn’t work for this gluten-free girl.
And all of the grocery stores were closed because it was Sunday.
Later, I ended up having a nice lunch of sausage and bean soup, and I splurged on a steak dinner that night.
Maybe forgetting about Sundays wasn’t such a bad thing.
Next Sunday, I will try to plan ahead. More likely, I will forget which day it is.
September 24, 2023 I love to walk and hike. I’d say it is my primary form of recreation and transportation, especially while traveling. I try to keep my daily limit to ten miles. You know, moderation and all. I don’t want to be too wiped out to enjoy the next day’s wanderings. My friend Nancy likes to take it up a notch, though. She took up trail running in her fifties. Let’s say she’s my only friend my age who can kick my butt on a hiking trail. (Don’t be fooled by the sweet smile in the photo.)
We had two full days to explore Miljet National Park in Croatia. So, we decided to take a long hike the first day and take it easy the second.
The nice part about traveling with my friends Kirk and Nancy is that I don’t have to plan much at all. They are avid map readers, and Nancy loves to set up the day’s itinerary.
Besides covering much of the park, the hike also included an ascent to a viewing tower. The views of the island were stunning!
The side trip to the neighboring town of Polace for groceries added a couple of kilometers, too. But we got to see the ruins of a Roman place, too.
That’s how we ended up hiking 20K in a day, or 2.42 miles over my usual limit.
Don’t get me wrong; I’m just being cheeky. It was one of the most memorable days of our trip to Croatia. My feet survived, and I was only a little sore the next day.
We arrived in Split, Croatia, yesterday afternoon.
After settling in our apartment, we took a ten-minute walk to the old town. As old towns go, it’s a good one. In fact, most of the old town is the site of Diocletian’s Palace.
This morning, we were ready for something different, though. We would have two more full days in Split. Why not go see something a little off the beaten path?
The priority was the Green Market, or farmers’ market. I had been hankering for some quality produce, and the tiny grocery stores on the Croatian islands we just visited lacked selection and freshness.
Visiting the markets is one of my favorite things to do in Europe. I love seeing the local produce and agricultural products. In addition to fruits and vegetables, we picked up some honey, dried fruit, sausage, and olive oil.
Speaking of olive oil…my friend Nancy and I had wanted to learn more about olive oil production. We had been looking for a tour but weren’t finding anything.
Then I found the Olive Museum in an online search. It’s located just a few miles outside Split, in Stella Croatica Experience Center. That sounded like something we needed to explore!
After a bus ride 30 minutes or so out of town, we arrived. Stella Croatica was a combination of gardens, a restaurant, a factory, a museum, and a gift shop.
It was one of those better-than-expected experiences. The whole premise of the place was to promote local agriculture. The first part of the tour was a walk through the factory where they make candied oranges, lemons, and fig cakes. This included some samples.
We were then advised to go up to the village and tavern where we could have a drink and bite to eat before the rest of the tour. I’m still not sure if the village was all or part re-creation, but it was charming and inviting. We sampled local wine, cake, and ice cream. Yum!
The tour took us past an old olive press and into the Olive Museum, where we learned some history and statistics regarding Croatian olive oil production.
The tour ended at the delightful gift shop where I could have bought one of everything. But fortunately, I’m a nomad, which makes it easy to pass.
Afterward, we wandered around the gardens until closing time.
Then we walked over to Klis Fortress, which was more extensive and interesting than expected.
Perched high on a rocky plateau, it has been a strategic location since about 3600 BC. The buildings and gates were in various phases of repair and renovation, which made for some fun exploration.
One of the most intriguing buildings was the round Church of Saint Vitus. Not to be missed!
The fortress offered stunning views of Split and the surrounding areas. It could be a fabulous spot to watch the sunset.
Be sure to add both locations to your Split itinerary!
One of the joys of a nomadic lifestyle is checking off the bucket list. Okay, so sleeping in a castle wasn’t exactly on my bucket list. Still, I have always wanted to stay in a historic building. And this was yet another experience that was better than expected.
The not-so-secret entrance to the castle dorm rooms!
You can reserve a room in Durham Castle in northeastern England during the summer when the university students are on break. You see, part of the castle has been converted into dorm rooms while other sections are open for tours during limited hours.
The rooms are nothing special, but you can get one with a private bath. Mine was on the tiny side, but that was fine with me. I also had to climb four and a half flights of stairs to get to the room, but that was okay, too.
Besides staying in a castle, overnight guests enjoy breakfast in the Grand Hall. This could also fulfill a bucket list item if you are a Harry Potter fan, as the hall has that feel. Just imagine the grand events that have been hosted here! The offerings are extensive, with everything you could want for breakfast, and a kind staff member ordered gluten-free croissants for me every morning. (If you are gluten-free, ask!)
Beyond the Castle, you will find that you are ideally situated in Durham’s quaint, historic city. Across the Palace Green is the Cathedral.
Down the hill are the historic town and market plaza.
The River Wear snakes its way around the city.
You can walk less than a mile to Crook Hall Gardens.
I highly recommend at least a couple of nights in Durham if you are planning a visit to northeastern England!
September 24, 2023 Sometimes, the best days happen when things don’t go according to plan. I have been traveling in Croatia with old friends, a married couple, for the past nine days. We are a compatible trio, all three active, outdoorsy types. In fact, it was during a cross-country ski and snowshoe trip last winter that we decided to plan an adventure together. I was ecstatic when Nancy offered to help with the planning because, in my nomad life, I am constantly working on my itinerary. We met up at the Dubrovnik airport just over a week ago, and the trip has gone exceptionally well until…
Yesterday afternoon, before we left Mljet Island, the rain came in with a vengeance. We had been enduring some feisty winds, but rain can really put a damper on the fun. After trying to remain dry, we boarded the ferry for a 30-minute ride to Korcula. Our host generously offered to pick us up, and the rain had momentarily stopped when we arrived. Then the thunder and lightning returned yesterday evening. So much for our plans to paddle board tomorrow. Our power went out around 3:00 AM and didn’t come on until about 10:00 AM. Our host felt terrible about the weather and the power outage. This morning, he brought us some candy and a bottle of wine as a consolation. (As if he could control the weather.) He also realized that a close lightning strike had blown out our modem and had a new one ready for us when we returned this evening. Such a nice man!
After a brief break early this morning, the thunder, lightning, and rain continued until about 11:00 AM.
Then the skies started to look hopeful.
We did have a couple of other issues, though. Last night, we discovered that no public buses were running on Sundays. Today, no Uber drivers responded to our request. No problem. We are walkers. We could easily cover the three miles into town.
The weather was much more promising by noon, and we walked out the door. Along the way, we stopped to inspect local plant life, saw a monument to World War I soldiers from the island, and visited a Marian shrine.
We ended up having a fabulous time exploring the old city of Korcula. It is a picture-perfect medieval town located on the beautiful Adriatic waters. The rain had cleared the air, making for an exceptional day. After searching for the right restaurant to cater to my gluten-free diet, we enjoyed a scrumptious lunch by the old city gate. I had eggs benedict for the first time in many years, and we all enjoyed chocolate mousse cake with pistachios for dessert.
After lunch, we wandered through town and climbed the church tower for the best views of the day.
Then we walked along the waterfront, checking out the different buildings, sections of the old city walls, and the luxurious modern yachts in the harbor.
After stopping for groceries, we took the backroads home and saw things most tourists miss.
The 101 stone steps up to the Votive Chapel of Saint Anthony.
The cypress trees were planted in 1708 after the chapel was renovated (originally built in the 15th century). The last leg of the journey back to our apartment took us through rural areas bound by stone walls with abundant olive trees.
What looked like a potential disaster of a day ended up being one of my best travel days yet!
I arrived in Durham, England, last night after a grueling day of travel from Seattle. But first, let’s get something straight—my travel went remarkably smoothly, especially given my international flight history. My son says I’m about 50-50 for getting an on-time, smooth flight out of Seattle. About a year ago, my flight to Spain was delayed 24 hours. A couple of other times, my luggage didn’t arrive with me. And there was that time when my sister and I spent seven hours at SeaTac Airport shopping, drinking wine, and getting pedicures. On the day of my departure, there had been traffic control issues at Heathrow. I happened to be listening to BBC radio as I was driving around that day. I thought for sure my flight would be delayed for the second year in a row. Miraculously, we departed on time. The plane was about 70% full, so the flight attendant switched my seat to one with extra legroom and an empty seat next to me. My window seat companion was amiable and slept most of the way. Couldn’t ask for better. We arrived on time but had to wait for a spot to deplane. We were only minutes late, and I high-tailed it through the security checkpoint to baggage claim. I needed to get to King’s Cross Station on the tube to catch my 6:30 train to Durham. I’m sure I walked at least a mile through Heathrow, but I easily found the subway station and was on my way with time to spare. When I arrived at King’s Cross at 6:00, I had to wait for the platform announcement. Phew! I had time to spare. Once I boarded the train, I could relax and enjoy the three-hour journey. I watched the sunset from the window and fought to stay awake while munching on some local junk food.
Durham Train Station was quiet at 9:30 p.m., as no one was there. It was also well after dark. I called the phone number posted for taxis and received a text back. In their reply, I was informed that a taxi would be available at 11:00 p.m. As I was texting, a woman appeared. I shared my taxi woes with her, and she asked where I was going. “I’ll share my Uber with you. The castle is on the way to my house.” She lives in Durham and didn’t know that one could rent a dorm room in the converted castle during the summer months. She appreciated the information, and I was oh-so-grateful for the ride. The driver dropped me off at Palace Green. Straight ahead was the beautifully lit Cathedral. But where was the Porters Lodge where I was to check in?
I spotted a young couple on a romantic stroll, and they offered to help. In fact, they said they would stay with me until we found it. I felt fortunate to experience the kindness of strangers in my exhausted state. It was relatively easy to find, and I successfully checked in. The porter then showed me where to enter the building and gave me the security code. He said I would need to “go up a few” and I would find my room. You know how you feel when you are sleep-deprived, and you can’t quite think straight? There’s also a physical ache that comes with that exhaustion. Well, I had to go up a “few” flights of stairs to get to my room. I left the suitcase at the bottom of the stairs to assess the situation. I’ve checked into a few unclean (and one occupied) rooms, and I didn’t want to lug up that suitcase twice.
I’m happy to report that all was well. Who wouldn’t want to sleep in an ancient castle with modern amenities? I got to sleep before midnight and woke up around 7:30. Breakfast is served in the Great Hall from 8:00-10:00 and is included in the price of the stay. It’s an all-you-can-imagine-to-eat affair, and the Great Hall, built in the 13th century, has been the social hub of the castle for centuries. I love to walk through historic sites but rarely get to eat or sleep in them.
Looks like this adventure is off to a pretty good start!
When traveling, do you ever think, “I’ll go back there someday and…?”
I do that a lot. In fact, I’ve been doing it since I was a teenager when I got my first taste of travel beyond my home state.
Since becoming a nomad, I have had several opportunities to “go back and…” The latest example is an 18-day trip to Hawaii, the Big Island.
I first visited fifteen years ago with my then-husband and two children. It was one of our most memorable family trips. We stayed in three different locations on the island for eleven days. In fact, one place we stayed, in Puna, was covered in the 2018 lava flows, so I truly can’t go back!
The one disappointment of that family trip was the weather on our visit to Volcanoes National Park. It was rainy, and both calderas were ensconced in fog. We didn’t get to see or do much.
More recently, I have returned twice, but each time I was with non-hiker people. I got to see Kilauea and Kilauea Iki, but I wanted to hike there. After the most recent visit, I promised myself to come back and hike.
This year, I returned by myself this time and did just that. I reserved an Airbnb close to the park for two nights and prayed for good weather.
On the first day, I started from the Devastation parking lot to avoid the crowds elsewhere. I then took the Byron Ledge Trail and kept veering left until I reached the east end of Kilauea Caldera. After that, I went to the right and hiked up to the Crater Rim Trail (parts of which are the old Crater Rim Drive). I opted to walk through the Kilauea Iki viewpoint and took a little side trip through the Thurston Lava Tube. Finally, I dipped back down to hike across Kilauea Iki and back up the Byron Ledge Trail to my car. The distance was 8.1 miles.
While hiking through Kilauea Iki, the winds picked up and brought in some fog. It created an extra-eerie effect on the already other-worldly trail. The trail becomes rocky at the far end of Kilauea Iki and makes for a challenging passage. I highly recommend hiking boots with Vibram soles for this endeavor.
On the second day in the park, I hiked through the Mauna Ulu flow (1969-1974) on the Napau Crater Trail (off of The Chain of Craters Drive). I didn’t put in as many miles, but I thoroughly enjoyed the unique formations left by the lava flows.
After the hike, I continued down the Chain of Craters Road to the ocean, stopping at every crater and most viewpoints.
When I reached the coastline, I pulled over on the second pullout and saw a sea arch. It wasn’t the famous Holei Arch that everyone goes to. I thought it was a lucky occurrence.
But wait, there’s more!
The Big Island has more than one National Park. Don’t miss out, especially if you enjoy history.
Pu’uhonua O Honaunau National Historical Park (Place of Refuge)
This is a highly scenic park with an exciting history. The trail is relatively easy, and you will see so much culture in a short walk.
I recommend starting at the amphitheater, where you can relax in the shade and watch the video that explains the history of this sacred site.
Kaloko-Honokohau National Historical Park
This is the place you want to go to (almost) guarantee some sea turtle sightings. (A ranger told me there was only one occasion when a visitor returned and told her that they hadn’t seen any turtles.) You will also learn some of the history of the ancient Hawaiians.
The main parking lot is easily reached off Highway 19, just a few miles south of the Kailua-Kona airport. If you aren’t big on walking, I suggest you check in at the Visitor’s Center and then take the short drive over to the Honokohau Harbor, where you can park and take a short walk to the beach, where you will likely see some turtles along with the fish traps and the Heiau (temple).
If you are up for a few miles, hike the “big loop” from the visitor’s center through the trail on the lava fields and up to the Kalako Fishpond. The pond was created by a “massive stone wall,” currently under reconstruction. It’s really something!
Afterward, you will continue hiking, mainly along the beach on varied surfaces, from very rocky to sandy beaches, back to ‘Aimakapa Fishpond and Honokohau Beach. Unfortunately, the final leg of the hike is a bit boring as you walk through the rocky lava back to the Visitor’s Center. Still, there are a few petroglyphs to see on the way.
I highly recommend hiking boots with Vibram soles for this expedition. It’s a relatively flat hike, but many sections are challenging because of the sizeable, uneven lava rocks.
Pu’ukohola Heiau National Historic Site (The Temple on the Hill of the Whale)
Don’t miss this one! I had visited the island three times before finally stopping at the visitor’s center on this trip. And then I went twice!
First, I hope you arrive when George, the park ranger, is on duty because he is the most enthusiastic ranger I have ever met. This guy loves his job! He also explained the difference between historic and historical to me. I will entice you to visit by saying this is probably the most important historic site to Hawaiians. But I really want you to go there and learn the history.
There is some hiking to be done here, but I must admit, I only walked out to the Heiau. No harm in leaving something for that next trip!
Now, your English lesson for the day. Both words are adjectives, and the following definitions are from Dictionary.com.
Historical: of, relating to, treating, or characteristic of history or past events
Historic: well-known or important in history
Therefore, to paraphrase Ranger George, a Historic National Park is where a significant event occurred. A Historical National Park shows the history of the place, but no important events took place there.
I have been here in Hawaii (aka The Big Island) for a week—by myself. You are probably wondering what is wrong with me. Does she smell awful? Why doesn’t she have any friends? Seriously, who would go to Hawaii alone??
Well, it just didn’t work out this time. I had been holding a place for my older son, and he had to bow out due to other commitments. Then I tried a couple of friends. One had too many things scheduled in August, and another may be able to join me for a few days at the end of the trip. A single guy friend figured it wouldn’t go over too well with his new girlfriend. Fair enough.
So here I am, by myself.
The trip got off to a rocky start. My flight was delayed, and I was lucky enough to get a loud, kicking preschooler in the seat behind me.
By the time I checked in and got settled for bed, it was 3:00 AM back home.
My first full day in Hawaii consisted of sleeping in, exchanging my malfunctioning rental car, grocery shopping, and a late afternoon swim before dinner. Ah, paradise!
While driving around that first day, I heard the high wind warnings on the car radio. Hurricane Dora was passing south of the Hawaiian Islands.
In case you’ve been living in a cave, I’ll tell you what happened next. Dry conditions and high winds caused devastating wildfires on Maui and some smaller fires here on the Big Island.
I took a nice long beach walk Tuesday morning before the winds kicked up. I then spent the afternoon and evening safely in my condo, watching the trees sway, palm fronds and branches dropping to the ground.
The news the next day was heartbreaking. Beautiful, historic Lahaina had been devastated by the fires. As of today, we know that more than 100 people lost their lives.
Hearing that news about the neighboring island put a damper on the joy of my visit. I stayed close to my accommodations on Wednesday since a section of the highway was closed due to the fires.
I went out to attempt a hike on Thursday morning, hoping that the winds had calmed. Nope. Still super windy. Instead, I opted to shop at the health food store and Foodland in Waimea. At this point, I clearly was not going to starve. In my defense, I rarely eat out.
Finally, on Friday morning, I headed way up to Pololu on the north end of the island to hike the short but steep trail down to the black sand beach. Now I could start fully enjoying my time on the islands. This was the Hawaii I knew and loved.
Yesterday, I went to three farmers’ markets up in Waimea, all unique and lively. Hawaiian farmers markets make me so happy. I love seeing the exotic fruits and vegetables and meeting the people who grow them.
I enjoyed a leisurely shoreline walk in the afternoon and went for my pre-dinner swim, which has become part of my daily routine.
This is my first time alone in Hawaii, but I have visited a few times in the past. I’m doing what I want and settling into the pace of my days. I have the luxury of being here for more than two weeks, so the typical must-see tourist urgency is lacking. I sit out on the patio after lunch most days and read in the shade. This morning, I lingered on the beach and watched turtles for an hour.
From this day forward, I will never apologize for my solo travels. (Although, I’m happy when friends can join me, and I won’t complain if Mr. Wonderful shows up to accompany me.)
In a couple of days, I’m heading to Hawaii Volcanoes National Park. I’ve arranged a two-night stay in the area to fully explore the park. Not a screaming deal this time but worth it for the location.
I got online today to make a dinner reservation at The Rim restaurant in the park. Even though I prepare most of my own food, I occasionally go out to eat. This restaurant has been on my “to do” list for a while along with some hikes in the park. I’ll burn the calories and enjoy the splurge.
For the first time, I had the option of making a reservation for ONE. (Usually, the dropdown options start at two.)
August 4, 2023 I have been living a nomadic life for just over a year now. There have been many adjustments along the way, and my lifestyle continues to evolve. Over the past few months, I have added house-sitting and pet-sitting. In fact, I’ve only paid for one night in a hotel this summer. I’ve hiked and paddle-boarded to my heart’s content and caught up with friends and family in my home state. Indeed, I can’t complain.
But being in my home area, there is also something I can’t avoid—my storage unit. When I sold my house and most of its contents last year, I gave up a lot, but not everything. I still have my car; the rest is in the ten-by-ten storage unit. I dread going to that storage unit. Why? It’s too full and too hard to find anything. I thought I had a great idea last spring when my son helped me set up two shelving units. But honestly, it is still too cluttered. Also, when my sister passed away last January, I re-inherited some things that I had given her. Becoming a minimalist is a journey, and I’m still working on it. My travel wardrobe is pared down, but I still have a few bins full of clothes in that storage unit. I will defend my winter wardrobe and sports-related attire, but I’m not sure if I have a decent excuse to keep the rest.
And then there are those bins of mementos, my personal history that I haven’t been able to part with yet. Perhaps I could reduce the number of containers. The bottom line is that I don’t think I will be a nomad forever. That’s why giving up some of those big items like my vacuum cleaner and favorite wool rug is hard. I plan to pare down a bit more when I return from my next adventure. I’m impressed with fellow nomads who have “a few boxes in someone else’s garage.” I’m not sure if I will ever get there, but that’s okay. We are each navigating our own journey.
Update: August 11, 2024
I did, indeed, manage to downsize my storage unit last spring before embarking on another extended European journey. In the process, I also saved myself some money by switching to a 7 x 10 unit, which was one-third the price!
Now I can roll out my bike and get to the items I’m seeking. I realized that I could dispose of some of those mementos and Christmas decorations without missing them. And paring down my wardrobe is a constant battle.
The dreaded storage unit no longer feels like a burden!
Wandering Shannon 