What a week it has been here in Porto! It’s always nice when something exceeds expectations, and Porto certainly has. I have been charmed by the city since my driver dropped me off a week ago. My little studio apartment is in an ideal location, and I’ve had fun cooking in my petite yet fully equipped kitchen. (The convection/microwave oven is the bomb.)
The hills of Porto have helped me burn calories. My legs are looking good. In fact, I feel healthier. I am recuperating from the stress of the past three years. It feels good to let go and just enjoy the experiences.
I am also getting better at just rolling with it. I am well aware that life is not going to go to plan. Sometimes the unexpected ends up being the best or most memorable. I remember missing the bus the other day. The walk down through the Foz ended up being better than riding the bus. Then today, I had planned to go on a bike ride. It ended up being a rainy day, so that idea was out. Instead, I went to the little cheese shop up the street this afternoon, and I’m so happy I did! When was the last time you had a sausage grilled at your table?
Not what I was expecting!Keeping my distanceHouse sheep cheese with house-made pumpkin jam! Incredible!Not to be missed when in Porto!
Things I loved about Porto:
My little studio apartment. The location is perfect, just a block from Santa Catarina pedestrian street and the Majestic Café.
The stone sidewalks. Hard on the feet but so charming!
People are generally amiable and feel down to earth. I’m not feeling any snobbery here.
Whimsical and lively public art
The carillon (it looks like a huge cuckoo clock) rings every quarter hour starting at 9:00 AM and plays a song on the hour. I didn’t see it in person until the end of my week here!
Sorry! Bad pic. I took this from the apartment.
There are hills, lots of hills. You’ll stay in shape walking here.
One-hour full body massage for 30 euros.
Lots of musicians and singers throughout the city streets
Groups of people spontaneously break out in song.
The Douro River is gorgeous, and the scenery is varied.
Parks and plazas.
Tiled buildings, especially the churches
Market equal to Spanish markets (I have traveled extensively through Spain.)
Today was a good day, despite being September 11th. Back home, the smoke from forest fires is thick and so harmful that some people are staying in. I have beautiful clear skies here. So much to be grateful for!
It’s Sunday, so I got up and went to Mass. Okay, I didn’t get the best sleep; it was a noisy Saturday night! I know I didn’t get to sleep until after midnight. When I woke up around 7:00, I set the alarm for 9:30 and went back to sleep. My body has been begging for rest. It is partly because I am letting go of my stress and emotionally recuperating. In addition, I walk like a crazy woman every day. Either way, it is all good. My body feels strong and healthy. The Iberian life is good for me. The “not-teaching high school life” is also good for me.
Mass at the Cathedral was at 11:00, about a ten-minute walk from here. Perfect! I showered, shampooed, and even put on some jewelry and my nicest blouse. I wish I understood more Portuguese because I could tell it was a good sermon. I made out that he was talking about God and peace and that God’s peace was for everyone. The priest was young, about 40, and had a pleasant demeanor. After Mass, in English, he thanked the visitors for coming and wished us a blessed visit in Porto. I could tell he was a good guy!
When Mass ended, the organist kept playing for about 20 minutes, which made touring the cathedral even more special. I’ve been to many cathedrals and churches in Spain, and I can’t say this one was amazing or outstanding; it was just a pleasant visit.
I walked around the plaza, checked out the view, got a few photos, and decided to find that little restaurant with gluten-free breakfast items. It hadn’t been that long since I had eaten breakfast, but I’m always up for a second round of chow! The gluten-free veggie crepe was interesting, but it could have been better if they had heated it enough to melt the cheese. I didn’t complain, though. It was nice to be in a gluten-safe place.
Gluten-free veggie crepe at Maria Limao
I realized I hadn’t picked up my tour book pages or a map before leaving the apartment, so I returned after lunch. I did a little yoga and decided that a nap would be a good idea. Just 20 minutes to get recharged.
View from the Clerigos Tower
I then took off to do the upper part of the Rick Steves walking tour. Oh my! I think he had me walking the steepest streets in the city! And there were a couple of detours with all the construction going on. I saw some more plazas and parks and the Clerigos church and tower. Definitely worth the visit! I also went to the Imperial McDonalds; I didn’t order anything, but at least I saw it. Satisfied that I had finished my sightseeing, I stopped at the Pingo Doce before returning to the apartment. I had plans to roast a chicken for dinner and enjoy an afternoon GF beer.
The chicken was pretty fabulous. I added leftover lemon, figs, onion, and olives. I roasted some potato, onion, and the rest of the carrot in a separate pan. It was quite the gourmet dinner, along with last night’s leftover green veggies.
Lemon-fig chicken with roasted potatoes on the side!
After dinner, I went for a walk down the Santa Catarina. A musician was singing and playing his see-through guitar while wearing a white see-through skirt. He was wearing a man-thong under it; I could see when I walked behind him!
Yet another day of excessive walking. I knew it going in. I used my last bonus day on the tourist bus to ride to the city park. It was not nearly as impressive as Serralves, but I’m glad I experienced it. Seeing the locals out and about, walking and riding bikes was nice. The man feeding the geese was pretty entertaining, too! Parts of the park were more likable than others, but it was a vast park. I imagine it’s a lot to maintain.
I had a chicken salad for lunch in the park’s café. It was rather tasty, indeed! Baby greens, cucumber, sauteed mushrooms, carrots, chicken, and pineapple! The young woman who waited on me spoke excellent English and ensured my salad was gluten-free.
The day I arrived in Porto, my driver told me I would love the food.
After lunch, I strolled through the park and went down to the beach. I wasn’t sure how far I would walk on the beach, and I went farther than I expected because it was so captivating!
I made it all the way to where the Atlantic meets the Douro. Pretty impressive! I took some nice breaks along the way and even took my shoes off for a while.
At home, I ate yesterday’s fish (too tired to cook last night), fried potatoes, and sauteed green beans and zucchini. The fish was so-so. I ate half of it and threw out the rest.
After dinner, I was hankering for a snack and stepped down to the Pingo Doce. You know what they say about going to the store when you are hungry. I bought a small container of mixed berries, fresh coconut, a package of microwave popcorn, and a bar of shampoo to have a backup. (I should have brought the one I had at home.) The berries were yummy, and so were the gluten-free cookies. Cranberry-orange!
Porto, Day Three: Another walk-until-you-drop kind of day!
I decided to get to some of the tourist sights nearby. I got lucky and arrived at the Palacio de Bolsa at 10:40, just in time for the 11:00 tour in English. The tour guide was fantastic, and the building was magnificent! I even met two men my age from Seattle. Again, it was nice to have someone to talk to.
Check out those amazing mosaic floors!Yup, those are my new Sketchers!
Next, I was about to go to the San Francisco Church next door, but I felt the need for a Coke. (I rarely consume caffeine, but there are those days.) That three-story McDonald’s was staring at me, reminding me it had gluten-free buns inside! It was almost noon, and I was hungry, so why not? The funny part was that I had to walk up to the third floor to get to the bathroom, which was locked with a secret code! A few employees were having a meeting, or maybe an interview, and one of them let me in.
I don’t usually indulge, but I needed some caffeine.
I then proceeded downstairs to order my lunch. The fries were disappointing because they had been sitting under the heat lamp, but the burger was delicious, one of the best gluten-free buns I have ever had! The church was pretty cool, with interesting three-dimensional scenes. There was a museum, too, and catacombs beneath. The price was steep to get in, though, eight euros.
My next mission was to get across the river to take a boat ride and try some port wine. It felt like a long wait for the bus, but I made it. Then the boat ride was in a different location than the spot that the map indicated. I had to ask a couple of people, and one assured me I should go right in front of the children’s playground. She was right, but I had to go to the bathroom! I ran to the market and had to wait quite a while because there was only one toilet for the women. Apparently, the other one was out of service. I returned before the boat took off but didn’t get the best seat. I didn’t care, though. It was a gorgeous afternoon, the perfect temperature out. I enjoyed the leisurely cruise and the different perspective. I also noticed a second lower pedestrian bridge I could take back after tasting port.
View of the Palacio de Cristal from the Douro River
It was about 4:00, and once again, I felt hungry. I found a café called 7g, with some gluten-free items on the menu. The chicken bowl I ordered was delicious and hit the spot.
This makes up for the earlier meal at the Golden Arches.
I then made my way uphill to Taylor’s. I was in no mood for another tour, so I went straight to the tasting room. I ordered a glass of 20-year-old tawny along with two truffles. Of course, I preferred the truffles! So glad I did not go for a full tasting; I would have been sick.
When in Porto…
I made my way back downhill and across the river. Then it was all those steps up and a few blocks to get home. I made it, and I was beat. The tawny was not sitting well in my stomach. I finally relaxed and got a good night’s sleep, though.
I walked today; I walked a lot today! First, I slept in, which was glorious. It was coming up on noon when I finally got to the tourist bus.
I met two college students from Boston who were delightful, intelligent young women. They are both studying bioengineering and smartly saved their “easy” classes for senior year. They are spending the semester in Madrid and are taking advantage of long weekends to go on trips. It sounded like they had the entire semester’s worth of weekends booked up! It was nice to have company and talk to fellow humans.
Gardens and view of the Douro from the Palacio de Cristal
I got off the bus at the Palacio de Cristal. It is primarily a park with beautiful grounds and fantastic views of the Douro River. A local had encouraged me to check it out. I could only partially enjoy the book fair that was going on, though, since I don’t speak Portuguese. Overall, the stop was worth it; I’m thankful for that recommendation.
I then returned to the bus to head to Serralves, a former estate with extensive grounds, gardens, and museums. The first part I saw was a modern art museum. Most of the things in it were garbage, really. I went through that part rather quickly. Then, there was a section with sculptures. That was more interesting, still weird, but interesting. The coolest part was a hallway with bars across it at angles. Partway through, you had to duck and weave to get through. That was the best one. There were two rooms, one intense blue and one intense green, with sculptures. They were cool, too.
Next, I walked the grounds and saw some of the outdoor sculptures. There was a large shovel, at least 15 feet tall, a round metal sculpture, and a mirrored sculpture. Then there were all kinds of gardens and a series of pools in front of the pink Art Deco mansion.
The best surprise was that there was a Miro exhibit inside the mansion! Such a treat; I adore his whimsical style, and I got the bonus of seeing the inside of the villa.
Exterior of the villa
There was still so much more to see, though! The treetop walk, the farm, and more gardens. I was wiped out after walking around.
Oh, but there was more walking in store for me! I got to the bus stop just in time to see my bus leaving. I sat on the curb, thinking I would wait for the next bus. Then I realized that I could walk down to the Foz neighborhood. I was also suffering from hunger and the need to go to the bathroom. Maybe I would see a café along the way. I didn’t have to walk far before spotting a Pingo Doce grocery store. Did I mention this was a ritzy neighborhood with sizeable mansions? So, it was an extra-nice grocery store. First, I went down to the parking garage to use the bathroom. Then I went in search of some lunch. I put together some chicken lunch meat, Portuguese Fritos, and a fruit-coconut drink. The corn chips were better than Fritos, a little thinner and lighter.
Even though my feet were tired, it was a relatively easy downhill walk to the water. I ended up at the point where the Douro meets the ocean. I was so tired that I couldn’t even walk to the end.
But then I had some motivation to walk a little further. I saw a woman with a Daura Damm gluten-free beer. She told me she had found it at Go Natural, right up the street. I was darn tired, but I made it and hit the jackpot! They even had Celia, the Czech GF beer, and a GF Super Bock. Ahhh.
Today was a good day. I woke up feeling almost normal, cooked a delightful breakfast, and walked to the Bolhao Market. It is in a temporary location, just until this Saturday. Then the vendors will be moving back to the newly renovated original market location.
The market was not crowded at all! It appeared that they were happy to have my business. In fact, they were all quite friendly, except for the olive oil lady who would not look up from her phone. I don’t know if she was deaf, disabled, or what. She would not look up. Maybe she was mad that she had to work and ignored all the customers.
That was okay because I ended up buying olives and olive oil from another stand run by a grandmother, her daughter, and her granddaughter. The teenage girl spoke perfect English and was the translator for her grandmother, who kept talking to me in Portuguese.
I wandered a bit more and ran into the Sao Bento train station with the tile murals. It was worth a look!
Then I found the gluten-free bakery, but they are closed for vacation until after I leave. I then looked for comfortable sneakers to allow my feet to breathe in the humid heat. I went with some Sketchers. The extra cushioning helps with the stone sidewalks!
Abundance from the Bolhao Market in Porto!
Back home, I put away my groceries and heated up some soup for lunch. Still delicious!
I had a massage scheduled for 4:00 PM, so I thought I might take a river cruise. On the way, I stopped to ask about the Hop On Hop Off Tour Tickets. The man showed me my options, and I took the two-day pass with a river cruise for 24 euros. I wanted it to activate tomorrow so I could fully use it. He activated it through the tenth and said I could use it today. Four days? Okay!
I decided to get on the Blue Line and ride to scope it out the whole way. The route went to the Atlantic with some really enticing spots on the way. I will make tomorrow my park day, or Friday when the weather is better. So glad I got to see all the sights and get better oriented. It’s nice to be here for a week and not feel rushed.
Sights from the Blue Bus
When I returned, I walked around a bit more and found some reasonably priced sunscreen and a smaller water bottle that would fit in my purse. I then got myself turned around and went in the wrong direction. It’s easy to do here since the streets wind all over!
The massage was fantastic! And only 30 euros. It was a full-body massage, and I mean full-body. She even massaged my abdomen. Wow! She must have been realigning my Chakras. She also slathered me with oil. Quite a cultural experience.
On the way back to the apartment, I stopped at the little cheese shop and got some of the smoked cured ham to try. I can’t say I loved it; the flavor was too strong for me. I chopped some in bits and sautéed it with my green beans. I made roasted sweet and white potatoes, garlic, and carrots in the oven. That turned out pretty well! I’m having fun in my mini kitchen!
This trip did not get off to a good start for me. First, my flight was delayed by an entire day. The flight from Seattle to Dallas was an hour late, which meant I would not make my connection. Luckily, I learned this before arriving at SeaTac. (Always check your email before a flight!) It didn’t end up being too bad, though. I went back to sleep and got some much-needed rest. I then took a walk and relaxed, knowing that I would need to get up at 3:30 the following day for my 7:00 AM flight.
Today I feel relieved. The flights to Madrid went as smoothly as possible; I’m just not a good plane sleeper. Maybe someday I will be wealthy enough to fly first class. I arrived at my hotel on Sunday morning hungry and exhausted. Fortunately, I could check in at 8:00 AM because I had already paid for the room the night before. It wasn’t much of a room, but I can’t complain. I got a bargain rate for being close to the city center. My room had one window that faced one of those nondescript courtyards, you know, with a view of the apartments across. In other words, no view, just daylight.
I allowed myself some time to rest and got up around 11:30 to walk over to Retiro Park, about 7 blocks away. At that time, I realized I was dehydrated and constipated, a combination that often comes with long flights.
In my zombie-like state, I walked through the park and over to the Plaza Mayor and some other sights. It was warm but not oppressively hot, somewhere in the 80s. To ease my digestive distress, I stopped at a health-oriented restaurant. I had fresh-squeezed juice (carrot, pineapple, and orange) along with a custom-made salad. I walked as much as possible and returned to my non-descript hotel room.
I then realized that I was facing a severe digestive challenge. I drank lots of hot water through the afternoon; I was genuinely becoming uncomfortable. I should have made a trip to the farmacia right then, but I was exhausted. Big mistake!
By 2:00 AM, I was miserable. I got online and found a 24-hour pharmacy just a few blocks away. Given the hour, I asked the gentleman at the front desk to call a taxi. The driver showed me where to walk up the 24-hour window, and the pharmacist gave me the only remedy available without a prescription, laxatives.
It was a long night and a long day following that. I finally got relief at 4:00 PM the next day. Then I promptly got in the shower, walked through the neighborhood, and over to Eva Perone Park. Things were looking up! I would make my flight to Porto.
What a difference a day makes!
It was another early wake-up, at 5:15 this time. I still wasn’t feeling 100%, but I was well enough to get myself checked in at Ryan Air. Thankfully the flight to Porto was only 55 minutes.
Then, thanks to a free airport pick-up from Booking.com (Why I got this perk, I do not know.) I was greeted by my private driver, who took me directly to my apartment for the next week. He was familiar with Spain and was excited for me to become acquainted with his hometown. I should have taken notes as he went on and on about all the things I must do during my week here.
I received an early check-in, and the kind young woman carried my 18.5-kilo bag (almost 41 pounds) up two long flights of stairs.
The apartment is about as charming as it possibly could be. It is a studio in an older building with an updated kitchen and bathroom. It is small but perfect! I even have a Juliet balcony and two large windows—the complete opposite of my Madrid hotel room. The ceilings are at least ten feet high, and the street view is ideal. Not to mention, there is a sizeable grocery store two doors away. That was excellent news for this starving, exhausted woman!
View to the left from my Porto apartmentView to the right from my Porto apartment
I walked over and bought a bunch of groceries, including a grinder with salt and herbs. Such a great idea! I made a big pot of chicken and vegetable soup, perfect for my imbalanced digestive tract.
The salt grinder and herb grinder travelled with me for the next three months!
After lunch and a nap, I took off to explore the area. At first, I got a little confused with my directions, and, surprise, I ended up back at the apartment. Along the way, I booked a massage for tomorrow afternoon at 4:00. Yes, I will be able to find the place!
For my second outing, I headed down by the Douro River. Talk about picturesque; It is stunning! I had a feeling I would like Porto. I was having so much fun that I didn’t notice my phone was low on battery, and it quit on me. Initially, I panicked and thought something was wrong with it. I missed a few photos, but I am here for an entire week. I will get back over the bridge more than once, probably tomorrow.
The first of many amazing Portuguese sidewalk shots!One of the seven bridges of Porto
I might have taken yet another nap before facing the challenge of the microwave-convection oven with Portuguese wording. Thank you, Google Translator. The soup was good the second time, accompanied by some potato chips and flan for dessert.
I have some gluten-free places scoped out for the coming days, but it is nice to have my own kitchen, too! Fruit, bacon, eggs, and ginger tea for breakfast tomorrow.