The Beautiful Stone Sidewalks and Plazas of Portugal

September 28, 2022

I’m wrapping up a three-and-a-half-week visit to Portugal as I make my way over to Seville. Before this trip, I had only spent a day in Portugal. Why? I have a love of Spain that I just can’t shake. Every time I leave, I want to return immediately.


Since I was spending three months in Europe, friends talked me into giving Portugal a chance. I must admit, it did not disappoint. I found the Portuguese people warm and welcoming. In all honesty, Portuguese food is better than Spanish food. (Sorry, Spain; I still love you with my heart and soul.)

One of Portugal’s trademarks is its stone sidewalks. It’s a rather clever idea. The stones are primarily black and white basalt set in as pavers which can be removed or replaced easily for maintenance. When work needs to be done, the stones are removed and can be replaced in the same pattern. There are numerous delightful patterns, especially in Lisbon.

The problem with these walkways is that they can be uneven and sometimes slick when it rains. I have stepped through some rather treacherous spots thinking, “What would this be like if I were in my seventies or eighties?”  Apparently, some Portuguese people believe it is time to do away with them, while others are clamoring to keep the tradition.

The other problem is that they are hard on the feet. When walking on the city sidewalks, it is more like hiking on a rocky trail. The bottoms of my feet were aching terribly after the first couple of days in Porto, driving me to buy a new pair of sneakers with extra cushion and regretting that I left the Hokas back in the US.

And when I arrived in Lisbon, one of those stone sidewalks did a final number on my suitcase, completely removing the rubber on one of the wheels. I ended up dragging rather than rolling it to my rental apartment.

Still, I’m not angry with the sidewalks. People will tell you that Portugal is a little more rustic than the rest of Europe. The sidewalks are part of that rustic charm!

I guess I will be shopping for a new suitcase in Spain.


Here’s a sampling of some of my favorite sidewalks and plazas:

Porto, just outside my apartment
Coimbra: Main pedestrian street
University of Coimbra
The Sitio of Nazaré
Nazaré: Notice the shades of pink stones.
Coimbra
Lisbon
Lisbon
Lisbon, Monument of Discoveries
Lisbon
Salema

The Time When Everything Went Wrong

September 21, 2022

Sometimes you check into a hotel, or in my case, a tiny studio apartment, and everything seems to go wrong.
I finally reached my apartment building in Lisbon and pushed the buzzer for reception. No answer. I tried again. No answer.

Then I remembered that there was a phone number with the confirmation. They had a short check-in window from 2:00 to 8:00 PM, and it was just after 2:00, so maybe they were late getting to work.


I called, and a man answered. Almost immediately, he appeared at my side to let me in. My, he was a handsome one, about my height and 40ish. He took my suitcase to help me up the first flight of stairs explaining that the elevator started on the first floor. (In Spain and Portugal, the ground floor is floor zero. What we Americans would consider the second floor; they would call the first.)


He checked me in but explained that the room wasn’t quite ready. Housekeeping was just finishing the cleaning, and it would take ten minutes or so. No problem. I didn’t mind waiting.

He brought me up and showed me how to use the code to get into the room. I then tried to set up the Wi-Fi on my phone. It didn’t work. He said he would reboot it and that I could use the same password to log into one of the other routers in the building.


I did my thing and got minimally settled. This was indeed a tiny apartment! It didn’t even have a closet, just a rack about a foot long with six hangers. It did have an iron and ironing board, though, something I had not yet seen on this trip. Oh, and a safe! I could lock up my computer when I was out and about.

Entry of the tiny T-shaped apartment
Tiny but adequate kitchen
Okay, a couple of things: Notice that there is about a foot of space to get in and out of the double, not queen, bed. Then, what if a couple rented this for their honeymoon?


I took a little rest before heading out to explore. The trip from Nazaré had been exhausting. Well, it was mostly the trip from the bus station to the apartment that did me in. Two subway rides with one escalator and one elevator out of service. Lugging that 40-pound suitcase up stairs is no easy feat!


I went to try my code on the safe, and it wouldn’t lock. I tried a different code and got an error message and a loud beeping noise. To my relief, the noise stopped after about 30 seconds.


I stopped at the office on the way out to let Mr. Handsome know about the safe. He insisted on coming back up with me to see if he could reset it. Not what I wanted to do, but better to get it over with. He had the same thing happen; beep, beep, beep…I told him not to worry about it, and he said he would fix it tomorrow.

I wouldn’t let a problematic apartment keep me from enjoying Lisbon!


It was a hot but fantastic afternoon of sightseeing. I followed the Rick Steves Baixa Stroll and was delighted that the apartment was within the map’s boundaries. In fact, it was just a few blocks from the beginning of the walk. After some gelato at the Plaza of Commerce, I made my way up to the Rossio train station, had dinner, bought some groceries, and returned to the apartment, ready to relax for the evening.


The day had been hot and humid, so I turned on the air conditioner and got ready for a shower. I noticed a steady drip of water coming down and got the big soup pot under it.


After the shower, I noticed the hair dryer didn’t work. Earlier that day, I had thought that I could have left my little travel hairdryer at home because every place seems to have one. That had to be the last malfunctioning/broken thing in this tiny apartment.


Nope. I couldn’t get the computer connected to the internet. When I finally got on one of the other routers, the signal was so weak that I couldn’t even surf the net or check Facebook.


At least there was a TV. I turned it on, and all the stations were that telltale blizzard. I guessed the cable wasn’t working either. I checked the back of the TV and saw that the cable was just disconnected. I plugged it back in, and all was well. At least I could veg out and watch some HGTV shows.


The next day…


Today after my morning outing, I stopped at the office to tell them about the dripping air conditioner. Again, Mr. Handsome insisted that he send the maintenance guy up right away to try and fix it, and he would get the safe working for me. I wanted to rest for a bit but getting it out of the way was good. Some new batteries took care of the safe, and I can now lock up the computer. The maintenance guy switched out the filters but was sure there was more to fix.


Mr. Handsome was still there after the maintenance guy left. I mentioned that I had heard him speaking perfect Spanish on the phone earlier and asked why he spoke it so well. He seemed pleased to know that I spoke Spanish. He explained that he had worked as a flight attendant based out of Madrid and had traveled the world for five years. Then he assured me that I would continue to pick up Portuguese and that there were a lot of similarities to Spanish. He also showed me the other hairdryer that was hiding in the cupboard. (The one attached to the wall was old and no longer worked.)
The air conditioner began dripping almost as soon as they left. But no one was in the office when I went to leave for my afternoon outing.


When I returned, I broke the bad news to Mr. Handsome. He said they were fully booked but would see if he could get me into a different apartment tomorrow since the technician couldn’t get here right away. I assured him that I would be fine either way.


I won’t mind another conversation with Mr. Handsome, though. He looks deeply into my eyes when he talks to me as if he can dive into my soul.


Ultimately, I stayed in the tiny apartment with the dripping air conditioner. My days in Lisbon were packed with so many beautiful sights to see.

Monument to the Discoveries

Coimbra, Portugal: Gluten-Free Gastronomic Delights!

September 16, 2022

One of the great things about travel is the unexpected surprises. I have traveled throughout Spain several times, but for some reason, I never spent time in Portugal. I guess it’s just that magical attraction of Spain that kept me coming back.

Last spring, I decided to retire early from teaching and explore the possibility of residing in Spain. More than half of the people I talked to suggested I explore Portugal, too. Since I had 90 days, I decided to give Portugal a chance.

I planned most of my itinerary based on a friend’s suggestions. She pulled out her photo album from a two-week trip to Portugal, and I took notes.

Coimbra is the only place I picked on my own, partly because of its location. I also liked that it was a university town, the “Oxford of Portugal.”

When I arrive in a new place, I look up gluten-free restaurants. Coimbra ended up being celiac foodie heaven! Additionally, I was staying in a hotel because I couldn’t find a studio apartment that fit my budget and location requirements. That meant dinners out. (While traveling, I prepare most of my food to save money and eat healthily.)

I immediately found eleven restaurants offering gluten-free menus or at least GF dishes. I dined very well on each of the three nights of my stay.

Soup is a big thing in Portugal
Slow-cooked beef: a worthy splurge!

Tuesday night at Refeitro da Baixa, I was first served a delicious gluten-free whole-grain bread with butter and olive oil. The next course was a lovely vegetable soup, and I splurged on the slow-cooked beef in wine sauce with vegetables and potato puree. Enjoying a gourmet meal in a unique environment (a former ceramics factory) without worrying about gluten contamination was wonderful!

Part of the ceramics factory was still there. Maybe they rent out part of the building to the restaurant?

Wednesday’s lunch was at Sete. They didn’t take lunch reservations, so I arrived when they opened to be sure to get a table. It had been a rainy day, so I decided to make it a leisurely lunch while I watched to downpour outside. I started with a GF Super Bock and olives, followed by vegetable soup (squash-based) and salmon with vegetables. Every bite was so delicious that I considered scrapping my dinner plans to return.

I had a perfect view of the downpour.
Salmon, veggies, and black quinoa on the side

Wednesday evening, I dined at No Tacho. It was a busy, noisy little place, but the food and service were excellent. My dinner started with a small glass of sparkling wine and an appetizer on the house. Their plan worked; I ordered a glass. I branched out and tried the octopus salad. It wasn’t really my thing, but it was good. Then I had risotto with pork tenderloin—delicious!

Octopus salad
Pork tenderloin with risotto

Thursday, I took the bus to Fatima. I was in the neighborhood, so I couldn’t miss one of the world’s holiest sites.

I returned with plenty of daylight to spare and decided on Tapas Nos Costas for dinner. I cheated a little, eating Spanish food in Portugal, but it was oh-so-good and not typically Spanish.

First, I had a romantic table for two in a stone alcove. (Would my mystery Portuguese boyfriend magically appear?) I had a salad with orange, roasted fennel, and lamb chops with honey and almonds, both incredible! Room for dessert? Sure. Basque cheesecake with blueberries! Oh, my. I never eat cheesecake. It was moist and lighter than our American stuff!

A cozy little table for two

But wait, there’s more to tell. When in Coimbra, you absolutely must go to Cosi Gelato. All the gelato and sorbet are made on-site with fresh ingredients. The best part is that you can order a small and get two flavors. I went all four days that I was in Coimbra and tried different sorbets every day: avocado-lime, pineapple-mint, mango-coconut, fig, passion fruit…each one was delicious! There are more than 100 flavors that rotate through.

My train left at 1:40 on Friday. I figured I could check out of my room, leave the suitcase at the hotel, run to Cosi Gelato to arrive when it opened, and still get back to pick up my luggage in time. There was some distance to cover, but my legs were in excellent shape from all the Portuguese hill walking. Are you starting to see how food motivates me?

I arrived at noon, and a man I had yet to meet greeted me from behind the counter. I asked if he was the owner, and he confirmed. We had a lovely conversation. He told me about the places I should see in Portugal and showed me pictures of the massive waves in Nazaré, my next stop. I thought, “Could he be single? I think I’m in love!” Heck, I was already in love with the sorbet. I could live happily ever after in Coimbra.

I could have stayed much longer, but there was that train to catch. I honestly will return to Coimbra just to eat at Cosi Gelato. It’s that good! And it is a cool university town.

Last Day in Porto

September 12, 2022

What a week it has been here in Porto! It’s always nice when something exceeds expectations, and Porto certainly has. I have been charmed by the city since my driver dropped me off a week ago. My little studio apartment is in an ideal location, and I’ve had fun cooking in my petite yet fully equipped kitchen. (The convection/microwave oven is the bomb.)

The hills of Porto have helped me burn calories. My legs are looking good. In fact, I feel healthier. I am recuperating from the stress of the past three years. It feels good to let go and just enjoy the experiences.

I am also getting better at just rolling with it. I am well aware that life is not going to go to plan. Sometimes the unexpected ends up being the best or most memorable. I remember missing the bus the other day. The walk down through the Foz ended up being better than riding the bus. Then today, I had planned to go on a bike ride. It ended up being a rainy day, so that idea was out. Instead, I went to the little cheese shop up the street this afternoon, and I’m so happy I did! When was the last time you had a sausage grilled at your table?

Not what I was expecting!

Keeping my distance
House sheep cheese with house-made pumpkin jam! Incredible!
Not to be missed when in Porto!

Things I loved about Porto:

  • My little studio apartment. The location is perfect, just a block from Santa Catarina pedestrian street and the Majestic Café.

  • The stone sidewalks. Hard on the feet but so charming!
  • People are generally amiable and feel down to earth. I’m not feeling any snobbery here.
  • Whimsical and lively public art
  • The carillon (it looks like a huge cuckoo clock) rings every quarter hour starting at 9:00 AM and plays a song on the hour. I didn’t see it in person until the end of my week here!
Sorry! Bad pic. I took this from the apartment.
  • There are hills, lots of hills. You’ll stay in shape walking here.
  • One-hour full body massage for 30 euros.
  • Lots of musicians and singers throughout the city streets
  • Groups of people spontaneously break out in song.
  • The Douro River is gorgeous, and the scenery is varied.
  • Parks and plazas.
  • Tiled buildings, especially the churches
  • Market equal to Spanish markets (I have traveled extensively through Spain.)
  • Beautiful beaches on the Atlantic Ocean

A Perfect Day in Porto

September 11, 2022

Today was a good day, despite being September 11th. Back home, the smoke from forest fires is thick and so harmful that some people are staying in. I have beautiful clear skies here. So much to be grateful for!


It’s Sunday, so I got up and went to Mass. Okay, I didn’t get the best sleep; it was a noisy Saturday night! I know I didn’t get to sleep until after midnight. When I woke up around 7:00, I set the alarm for 9:30 and went back to sleep. My body has been begging for rest. It is partly because I am letting go of my stress and emotionally recuperating. In addition, I walk like a crazy woman every day. Either way, it is all good. My body feels strong and healthy. The Iberian life is good for me. The “not-teaching high school life” is also good for me.


Mass at the Cathedral was at 11:00, about a ten-minute walk from here. Perfect! I showered, shampooed, and even put on some jewelry and my nicest blouse. I wish I understood more Portuguese because I could tell it was a good sermon. I made out that he was talking about God and peace and that God’s peace was for everyone. The priest was young, about 40, and had a pleasant demeanor. After Mass, in English, he thanked the visitors for coming and wished us a blessed visit in Porto. I could tell he was a good guy!


When Mass ended, the organist kept playing for about 20 minutes, which made touring the cathedral even more special. I’ve been to many cathedrals and churches in Spain, and I can’t say this one was amazing or outstanding; it was just a pleasant visit.


I walked around the plaza, checked out the view, got a few photos, and decided to find that little restaurant with gluten-free breakfast items. It hadn’t been that long since I had eaten breakfast, but I’m always up for a second round of chow!
The gluten-free veggie crepe was interesting, but it could have been better if they had heated it enough to melt the cheese. I didn’t complain, though. It was nice to be in a gluten-safe place.

Gluten-free veggie crepe at Maria Limao


I realized I hadn’t picked up my tour book pages or a map before leaving the apartment, so I returned after lunch. I did a little yoga and decided that a nap would be a good idea. Just 20 minutes to get recharged.

View from the Clerigos Tower


I then took off to do the upper part of the Rick Steves walking tour. Oh my! I think he had me walking the steepest streets in the city! And there were a couple of detours with all the construction going on. I saw some more plazas and parks and the Clerigos church and tower. Definitely worth the visit! I also went to the Imperial McDonalds; I didn’t order anything, but at least I saw it. Satisfied that I had finished my sightseeing, I stopped at the Pingo Doce before returning to the apartment. I had plans to roast a chicken for dinner and enjoy an afternoon GF beer.


The chicken was pretty fabulous. I added leftover lemon, figs, onion, and olives. I roasted some potato, onion, and the rest of the carrot in a separate pan. It was quite the gourmet dinner, along with last night’s leftover green veggies.

Lemon-fig chicken with roasted potatoes on the side!


After dinner, I went for a walk down the Santa Catarina. A musician was singing and playing his see-through guitar while wearing a white see-through skirt. He was wearing a man-thong under it; I could see when I walked behind him!

No caption needed!

Last Bus Day in Porto

September 10, 2022

Yet another day of excessive walking. I knew it going in. I used my last bonus day on the tourist bus to ride to the city park. It was not nearly as impressive as Serralves, but I’m glad I experienced it. Seeing the locals out and about, walking and riding bikes was nice. The man feeding the geese was pretty entertaining, too! Parts of the park were more likable than others, but it was a vast park. I imagine it’s a lot to maintain.


I had a chicken salad for lunch in the park’s café. It was rather tasty, indeed! Baby greens, cucumber, sauteed mushrooms, carrots, chicken, and pineapple! The young woman who waited on me spoke excellent English and ensured my salad was gluten-free.

The day I arrived in Porto, my driver told me I would love the food.


After lunch, I strolled through the park and went down to the beach. I wasn’t sure how far I would walk on the beach, and I went farther than I expected because it was so captivating!

I made it all the way to where the Atlantic meets the Douro. Pretty impressive! I took some nice breaks along the way and even took my shoes off for a while.


At home, I ate yesterday’s fish (too tired to cook last night), fried potatoes, and sauteed green beans and zucchini. The fish was so-so. I ate half of it and threw out the rest.


After dinner, I was hankering for a snack and stepped down to the Pingo Doce. You know what they say about going to the store when you are hungry. I bought a small container of mixed berries, fresh coconut, a package of microwave popcorn, and a bar of shampoo to have a backup. (I should have brought the one I had at home.) The berries were yummy, and so were the gluten-free cookies. Cranberry-orange!

Walking Through Porto

September 9, 2022

Porto, Day Three: Another walk-until-you-drop kind of day!

I decided to get to some of the tourist sights nearby. I got lucky and arrived at the Palacio de Bolsa at 10:40, just in time for the 11:00 tour in English. The tour guide was fantastic, and the building was magnificent! I even met two men my age from Seattle. Again, it was nice to have someone to talk to.

Check out those amazing mosaic floors!
Yup, those are my new Sketchers!


Next, I was about to go to the San Francisco Church next door, but I felt the need for a Coke. (I rarely consume caffeine, but there are those days.) That three-story McDonald’s was staring at me, reminding me it had gluten-free buns inside! It was almost noon, and I was hungry, so why not? The funny part was that I had to walk up to the third floor to get to the bathroom, which was locked with a secret code! A few employees were having a meeting, or maybe an interview, and one of them let me in.

I don’t usually indulge, but I needed some caffeine.


I then proceeded downstairs to order my lunch. The fries were disappointing because they had been sitting under the heat lamp, but the burger was delicious, one of the best gluten-free buns I have ever had!
The church was pretty cool, with interesting three-dimensional scenes. There was a museum, too, and catacombs beneath. The price was steep to get in, though, eight euros.


My next mission was to get across the river to take a boat ride and try some port wine. It felt like a long wait for the bus, but I made it. Then the boat ride was in a different location than the spot that the map indicated. I had to ask a couple of people, and one assured me I should go right in front of the children’s playground. She was right, but I had to go to the bathroom! I ran to the market and had to wait quite a while because there was only one toilet for the women. Apparently, the other one was out of service.
I returned before the boat took off but didn’t get the best seat. I didn’t care, though. It was a gorgeous afternoon, the perfect temperature out. I enjoyed the leisurely cruise and the different perspective. I also noticed a second lower pedestrian bridge I could take back after tasting port.

View of the Palacio de Cristal from the Douro River

It was about 4:00, and once again, I felt hungry. I found a café called 7g, with some gluten-free items on the menu. The chicken bowl I ordered was delicious and hit the spot.

This makes up for the earlier meal at the Golden Arches.


I then made my way uphill to Taylor’s. I was in no mood for another tour, so I went straight to the tasting room. I ordered a glass of 20-year-old tawny along with two truffles. Of course, I preferred the truffles! So glad I did not go for a full tasting; I would have been sick.

When in Porto…


I made my way back downhill and across the river. Then it was all those steps up and a few blocks to get home. I made it, and I was beat. The tawny was not sitting well in my stomach. I finally relaxed and got a good night’s sleep, though.

Dogs are Barking!

September 8, 2022

I walked today; I walked a lot today!
First, I slept in, which was glorious. It was coming up on noon when I finally got to the tourist bus.

I met two college students from Boston who were delightful, intelligent young women. They are both studying bioengineering and smartly saved their “easy” classes for senior year. They are spending the semester in Madrid and are taking advantage of long weekends to go on trips. It sounded like they had the entire semester’s worth of weekends booked up! It was nice to have company and talk to fellow humans.

Gardens and view of the Douro from the Palacio de Cristal


I got off the bus at the Palacio de Cristal. It is primarily a park with beautiful grounds and fantastic views of the Douro River. A local had encouraged me to check it out. I could only partially enjoy the book fair that was going on, though, since I don’t speak Portuguese. Overall, the stop was worth it; I’m thankful for that recommendation.


I then returned to the bus to head to Serralves, a former estate with extensive grounds, gardens, and museums. The first part I saw was a modern art museum. Most of the things in it were garbage, really. I went through that part rather quickly. Then, there was a section with sculptures. That was more interesting, still weird, but interesting. The coolest part was a hallway with bars across it at angles. Partway through, you had to duck and weave to get through. That was the best one. There were two rooms, one intense blue and one intense green, with sculptures. They were cool, too.


Next, I walked the grounds and saw some of the outdoor sculptures. There was a large shovel, at least 15 feet tall, a round metal sculpture, and a mirrored sculpture. Then there were all kinds of gardens and a series of pools in front of the pink Art Deco mansion.


The best surprise was that there was a Miro exhibit inside the mansion! Such a treat; I adore his whimsical style, and I got the bonus of seeing the inside of the villa.

Exterior of the villa

There was still so much more to see, though! The treetop walk, the farm, and more gardens. I was wiped out after walking around.


Oh, but there was more walking in store for me! I got to the bus stop just in time to see my bus leaving. I sat on the curb, thinking I would wait for the next bus. Then I realized that I could walk down to the Foz neighborhood. I was also suffering from hunger and the need to go to the bathroom. Maybe I would see a café along the way. I didn’t have to walk far before spotting a Pingo Doce grocery store. Did I mention this was a ritzy neighborhood with sizeable mansions? So, it was an extra-nice grocery store. First, I went down to the parking garage to use the bathroom.
Then I went in search of some lunch. I put together some chicken lunch meat, Portuguese Fritos, and a fruit-coconut drink. The corn chips were better than Fritos, a little thinner and lighter.

Even though my feet were tired, it was a relatively easy downhill walk to the water. I ended up at the point where the Douro meets the ocean. I was so tired that I couldn’t even walk to the end.

But then I had some motivation to walk a little further. I saw a woman with a Daura Damm gluten-free beer. She told me she had found it at Go Natural, right up the street. I was darn tired, but I made it and hit the jackpot! They even had Celia, the Czech GF beer, and a GF Super Bock. Ahhh.

Delayed Adventure

September 2, 2022

Today was the day—I woke up at 5:00 AM, bags packed and ready to head to the airport. Today was when I was to leave on a long-awaited 90-day adventure to Spain and Portugal. Fortunately, I checked my email because my flight out of Seattle was delayed by one hour, so I would not make my connection in Dallas. So glad I did not learn this at the airport!

I waited in the kitchen until my cousin woke up, so I could share the bad news. But hey, my flight was rebooked for 7:00 AM tomorrow. That would mean heading out at 4:00 AM. We both decided to go back to bed. I crashed out and slept until 10:30.

I would have been devastated if this had been a short trip, say a week or ten days. But how can I be upset when I know I will be in Europe for three months? On top of that, school started this week, and I am not in the classroom. And hey, my hotel in Madrid is pre-paid; I can go right to check in when I arrive on Sunday morning. So much to be grateful for!

The past few years have taught me that I can make plans, but I need to be ready for them to change. I was supposed to be house-sitting in Valencia from September 4-20, but my new friends canceled two weeks after I bought my plane ticket. They decided to move back to the states in July. Then I changed my plans and decided to explore Portugal before heading to Spain.

I know there will be ups and downs, pleasant surprises, and devastating disappointments in the weeks ahead. This morning reminded me that I need to roll with it, and it will all be worth it. Adventure on—well, tomorrow!

Great adventures are worth the wait!