Tag: Solo travel

My Solo Itinerary in Central Japan

I recently took a 38-day solo trip through central Japan. This was an itinerary I had put off for some time. Honestly, I knew it would be a little out of my comfort zone, and it fell lower on my list than other places. Europe, Australia, and New Zealand were easier.

But as I was traveling in Europe last spring, Japan kept coming up in conversations with fellow travelers. People were raving about cheap airfares and the natural beauty of the country. One person, knowing my love of hiking, urged me to go. How could I not consider it?

Then, a family member had to change her travel plans, and I was no longer obligated to dog sit for her in October. I could head straight there after cat sitting in Hawaii for two weeks.  Everything pointed to Japan—it was time.

Even though I live this crazy, fluid nomadic life, I am a planner at heart. I book most of my accommodations far in advance. This time, I was on a tighter timeline. Finding places to stay, within my budget, was challenging. October and November are popular months for travel in Japan. The weather has cooled, and that beautiful autumn color is coming on.

Unlike people who go on vacation for a week or two, I am a traveler, going at a slower pace. I like to stay at least five days in each destination. Some of my nomad friends stay as long as a month in a place.

I decided to focus on central Japan. My trip to Australia and New Zealand last year involved too many flights for my taste. I wanted this one to be simpler.

First stop: Tokyo (Six Nights)

My flight was from Honolulu to Haneda. From what I read online, Haneda was the preferred airport with easier access to the city center. This proved to be true.

Since my flight arrived late at night (10:00 pm), I booked a hotel near the airport in case of delays and because I knew I would be exhausted.

The hotel was perfect: nice, clean room for one, onsen (community bath) in the hotel, and breakfast included.

The next morning, I caught the hotel shuttle back to Terminal Two at Haneda Airport. This is the place to buy a real Suica Card, not the tourist one. You load it with cash to use on public transportation in Japan. Much easier than fumbling for change on a bus, subway, or train. You can even use it for purchases at convenience stores like 7-Eleven and some vending machines.

I stayed in Tokyo five more nights in the Harumi Flag neighborhood. It was enough time to take in the primary sights on my list. Could I have stayed longer? Yes! I’m sure that I could easily keep myself occupied in Tokyo for a month.

Tokyo highlights: Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building for a no-cost high-rise view of the city; Team Lab Planets (Make a reservation online well in advance.); Imperial Palace and East Garden; Meiji Jingu Shrine and Garden

Nikko (Three nights)

I didn’t want to miss this spectacular UNESCO World Heritage Site, just 150 kilometers north of Tokyo.

Warning: Accommodations are expensive in Nikko. It’s a popular destination and not all that big. The best thing that I could find within a reasonable budget was a family-owned pension a mile or so outside of town. My room was tired and dated and the hallway carpet smelled. But it was worth it to be able to explore Nikko and the surrounding area. And my hosts were lovely.

If you are like me and you don’t like to drive in foreign countries, the good news is that there are buses in Nikko to transport you to the local sights. The bus station is right across the street from the main train station, and the bus routes are clearly marked for tourists. You can pay in cash or with your Suica Card.

I spent the first day walking around the main temple sites in Nikko. The local walking map that I used had two main routes. I chose the Takino Path. If you have the energy, be sure to go all the way to the top. You will find it’s much quieter up there with fewer tourists, and there are numerous interesting sights along the way.

The second day, I took the bus to Kegon Falls and Lake Chuzenji. On the way back to Nikko, I got off the bus and walked to Yashio-no-yu Onsen. From there, I was able to walk part of the Kanman Path back to town.

I wish I had taken one more day in Nikko. I wasn’t able to see everything in the two full days that I was there.

Matsumoto (Seven nights)

I booked a longer stay in Matsumoto because I knew I would be taking day trips from there. I would have been okay with five or six nights, but it was nice to slow down a bit after the busy days in Tokyo and Nikko.

Matsumoto is a small city near the Japanese Alps. It’s the home of the famous Matsumoto Castle and is the birthplace of Yayoi Kusama, the artist known internationally for her large, vibrant creations. The train station is clean and new with the bus station out front. The people working at tourist information in the train station are very helpful. Be sure to stop there when you get off the train.

There are several museums, large and small. Don’t miss the City Art Museum and Kaichi School. There are some gems like Nawate Shopping Street, City Art Museum, and Alps City Park. Accommodations are reasonably priced. I stayed in a nice modern hotel with a kitchenette just three blocks from the train station.

Day trips from Matsumoto

Azumino: You can reach Azumino by trainin under half an hour. Be sure to go on a nice day, if possible, because you will be renting a bike to see the town. The local tourism agency has smartly created a map with bike routes. You can rent a bike from your pick of a few shops near the train station for just 200 yen/hour. (Four hours cost $5.30 US.) Then, it is off on two wheels through the rice paddies and along the river to the Wasabi Farm and other local sights. If you enjoy sculptures, don’t miss the Rokukan Art Museum.

Kamikochi: This is the location in Chubu Sangaku National Park that you must see. You can get there by bus, or bus and train combination. When you arrive in Matsumoto, head straight to the bus station (visible across from the train station) to reserve your round-trip tickets. Or you can prebook online.

The bus ride up to Kamikochi is thrilling, to say the least. If you are on the left side of the bus, you seem to get more of the straight-down-OMG views. If you are a walker, get off the bus at Tashio Pond to walk through the park. Otherwise, get off at the main bus station in the park. The visit was a highlight of my trip. I walked about eight miles that day.

Torii Pass Hike:

Take the train from Matsumoto to Yabuhara. From there, you will hike up and over Torii Pass on an ancient path to Narai, a town with a nationally designated historic district. The trail is well-marked the entire distance, and you will see shrines, ancient stone paths, and other historic sights along the way. It is a moderate hike with some elevation, so make sure you are prepared. You will be able to fill your water bottle at several points along the way.

If you aren’t a hiker, take the train to Narai. The historic town is not to be missed. Plan to spend a couple of hours strolling through the town, perhaps with lunch. There are historic houses to tour and fun shops to visit. Be sure to see the Kiso Ohashi Bridge, too. It is over 300 years old and is one of Japan’s largest arched bridges.

Takayama (Six Nights)

Takayama has much to offer! If you only have time for one stop in this region of Japan, I feel like Takayama is it. It is a fun, cute, walkable town with tons of opportunities packed into a compact space. There are two daily morning markets, so you can pick the one that is closest to your hotel. You will find fresh produce, packaged and freshly made foods, and crafts at the markets.

Again, be sure to stop at the tourism office, right in front of the train station. You will want to get the town map that shows all the main sights and walking routes. There are numerous temples and shrines to see, a walkable historic district, several museums, and a cat café/adoption center.

Day Trips from Takayama:

Shirakawa-Go and Ainokura Village: I opted for a bus tour to these two sites. Shirakawa-Go is the larger and more well-known of the two, but I preferred Ainokura because it was much less crowded. There are Gassho (thatched roof) houses throughout the region. If you are pressed for time, you can go to the open-air museum in Takayama.

Hida Furukawa: This town, which is much smaller than Takayama, is a short 20-minute train ride away but worth a visit if you have time. There are a few gems like canal street and the Festival Exhibition Hall. I visited in the morning, had lunch, and was back in Takayama for the afternoon.

(You can also get to Kamikochi from Takayama if you decide to skip Matsumoto.)

Kanazawa (Four Nights)

This is the one destination that I planned perfectly. Kanazawa is a medium-sized city close to the Sea of Japan. I feel like it is an up-and-coming place, partly because it was added to the Shinkansen route late in the game. I absolutely loved Kanazawa and am so happy it was part of my itinerary. After spending nearly two weeks in the Japanese Alps region, it felt fresh and modern without being too busy or crowded.

The main sights in Kanazawa are in a rather compact zone, all of which can be reached by two ingenious tourist bus loops that start at the train station.  

When you arrive, pick up a map at the tourist information center in the train station. There was also a nicely designed newspaper made especially for English-speaking tourists.

Some of the top sights in Kanazawa are Kanazawa Castle, Kenrokuen Garden (one of the top three gardens in Japan), Omicho Market, Nagamachi Samurai District, three geisha districts, temple areas, and a museum district including the 21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art and my favorite, the D.T. Suzuki Museum.

Kanazawa is a great place to eat, too! I have Celiac Disease, but for a city of its size, there were several dining options for me. For those without dietary restrictions, it seemed to be a foodie haven. You could spend days eating your way through Omicho Market!

Kyoto (Eleven Nights)

Most people wouldn’t spend a week and a half in one place, but remember, I’m a slow traveler. I also thought I might be taking day trips to Nara, Lake Biwa, or Osaka. (However, I didn’t.) In the end, I didn’t quite see everything on my list, and I found some extra treasures along the way.

For me, Kyoto was the best place in Japan. I love history and nature, making Kyoto my kind of place. There are also 14 UNESCO World Heritage Sites in the city! Additionally, it is surrounded by mountains. A day trip up to Mount Kurama is a must. The Kyoto Botanical Garden has Japan’s largest collection of plants, and the conservatory alone is worth the trip. Philosopher’s Path is another must-do. Even though I’m not a big shopper, I loved walking through Nishiki Market and some of the other covered pedestrian streets. And museums, so many museums. The list goes on…

Kyoto was the city where I most fully felt like I was experiencing Japan. I stayed in a hotel that was located between the Kamo River and Kyoto Gyoen National Garden. It was a bit north of the heavily touristed areas of central Kyoto, but I had easy access to buses and trains. I was hanging out with locals and college kids. People seemed more laid back, and I engaged in more conversations with locals. I often took evening strolls along the Kamo River, and I even experienced a shiatsu massage.

For anyone else out there who suffers from Celiac Disease, Kyoto is the place to go in Japan. I ate lunch out every day and didn’t even make it to all the restaurants on my list. Perhaps it is the number of expats and foreign college students in the city who have influenced this shift. I’m not sure, but it was nice to find a selection of places to eat.

All in all, I’m very happy with my Central Japan experiences. If you’ve never been, I suggest adding it to your travel wish list. Happy travels!

Gothenburg: Our Little Secret


July 28, 2024


I recently spent three weeks in Scandinavia. It was a sampler trip, my first visit to explore the region.
I have to say, I loved it! Beautiful scenery, water, islands, and history-filled cities—my kind of stuff. My time included a cruise from Copenhagen up the Norwegian coast and through the Geiranger Fjord. The scenery was stunning, and the town of Geiranger was charming. I also visited Oslo and Copenhagen.


But the highlight of my visit was Gothenburg, Sweden. I chose it over Stockholm, partly because it was in a more accessible location and partly because it was smaller.
Gothenburg is one of those “just right” European cities. It’s not too big, but there’s plenty to see and do. It’s mostly walkable, and you can also get around using the charming trams throughout the city.
I arrived from Copenhagen by train. Just steps away, I found the tram station, hopped on, and rode to my accommodation for the next few nights.


It was a change from the studio apartments I typically rent. I had a private room and bathroom, but the building had a shared kitchen. I figured it must have been student housing before the large, modern dorms were built.

My corner room had a high cozy factor; the bed was amazingly comfortable, and look at that cute vintage-style refrigerator! I didn’t mind walking down one flight of stairs to use the kitchen since the room had a full tea and coffee service.


The brick building was charming, with well-kept grounds. I had a corner room with views in two directions.


Gothenburg’s city center is walkable and has everything you could want. The public market is upscale, with shops and restaurants. Gluten-free people like myself will be happy to find several baked good options at Steinbrenner & Nyberg.
A walk through the historic Haga neighborhood is a must. There are cute shops selling Swedish products and cafés everywhere. Again, I found some yummy gluten-free treats at Café Husaren and enjoyed a gluten-free and vegan lunch at En Deli Haga.


If you love public gardens like I do, you’ll love Gothenburg. Tradgardsforeningen, or The Garden Society, is near the heart of the city. One thing I love is that it was created in the 1800s by the citizens (which also makes it one of the oldest public gardens in Europe). They sold memberships to create beautiful grounds for all to enjoy. I also visited the garden café and had an exquisite salmon lunch.


The Botanical Garden is a short distance from the city center, but you can easily reach it by tram. It is expansive, and you will get your steps in for the day. If you visit, take the short hike up to the viewpoint. You could spend a good part of a day wandering the grounds. It is one of the most exquisite botanical gardens I have ever visited.


You won’t pay an admission fee for either garden, but you can leave a donation.
In addition to the gardens, you will find numerous parks throughout the city, some with fantastic viewpoints. My favorite was Skansen Kronan, where you will see a historic fortress and enjoy a nice view of the city.

Then, there’s Slottsskogen, the massive park at the edge of the city near the Botanical Garden.


One day, I took tram #11 to the end of the line to catch a passenger ferry to Styrso Island. The islands in the archipelago generally don’t have cars. Most people get around on bicycles and golf carts. I enjoyed a wander around the island. If I were to return, I would definitely spend more time on the islands.


Another highlight was the newly constructed World of Volvo. I’m not generally a car museum person, but my family has a particular affinity for them. If you’re into architecture, it’s worth a visit to step inside the gorgeous five-story structure. The museum is on the third floor, but be sure to wander around the rest of the building. It is truly an architectural marvel!

Volvo’s 1976 electric car!


Amusement park fans will find Liseberg just a couple of blocks from the World of Volvo. It’s not my thing, but the hundred-year-old park is a favorite destination for many.
So, I say, let everyone else visit Oslo and Copenhagen, and we’ll keep Gothenburg our little secret.

Reflecting and Planning

January 4, 2024

As 2024 begins, I reflect on my first full year as a nomad.

The biggest question is, “Am I happy with the nomadic lifestyle?”

Yes! Absolutely. As the months pass, I can’t imagine returning to my former profession, teaching.

I never thought I would be so happy to be unemployed. (I still don’t believe I am retired.)

I wake up grateful every day for the sights I see, the people I meet, and a more relaxed lifestyle.

New Experiences in 2023:

  • House and pet sitting: From May to July, I mostly house-sat and pet-sat. My favorites have been the “one-dog sits.” Cats are easy, but dogs are good company, and at least one daily walk is guaranteed. It’s also a huge budget saver!
  • European National Parks: I visited Plitvice and Mljet in Croatia and Teide and Garajonay in the Canary Islands. The national parks in Croatia were stunning! Trails were well-marked and easy to navigate. Tiede, Spain’s highest peak, is located on Tenerife in the Canary Islands. I visited on a group tour that included star gazing. It was an unforgettable experience. I also spent a day on La Gomera in the Canaries, which is primarily a National Park. Absolutely gorgeous!
  • The Greek Islands: I spent about a month in Greece, starting in Athens and moving on to Crete, Karpathos, Rhodes, and Santorini. Each place had its unique character, and I enjoyed all of them. There are over 200 islands to explore in Greece, and I have plans to return this spring.
  • Reading: Okay, I have known how to read for a long time! I have always struggled with leisurely reading, though. I no longer feel guilty about spending the afternoon with my nose in a good book.

Plans and Changes for 2024:

  • More weeks of house sitting and pet sitting: I have been pet sitting since the middle of December when I arrived home from an extended trip to Europe. (I was able to schedule the sits around family Christmas celebrations.) And I will spend most of my days on sits through April. Requests have come my way, and I can be picky about pets and locations. I’m currently enjoying a gorgeous view of Puget Sound.
  • Volunteer Work: I’m researching options for volunteer positions both here in my home state and overseas. I’m hoping to make this part of my lifestyle.
  • Travel farther from home: I am going “Down Under” for the first time. After spending September in the Hawaiian Islands, I will head to Sydney, Australia, in October. I still need to plan the rest of the trip, including New Zealand.
  • No big US road trip: The past two years, I took off on extended road trips around the Western US (seven and ten weeks). Although I enjoyed those trips, which included visits with friends and family, I don’t have an open block of time this year. I will make some shorter trips instead.
  • Cruises: I haven’t been on a cruise ship in several years. I have mixed feelings about cruising, but incredible deals are out there as the cruise lines recover from the pandemic. And most cruise companies are responding to solo travelers with single rooms. It’s definitely worth checking out.

Two years ago, I never imagined that I would be living this lifestyle. I get a kick out of telling people that I am a nomad. Their reactions are almost always positive, and I enjoy answering their questions. Some people can’t believe that I no longer have a physical home. I have adapted and find it easy to make myself “at home” almost anywhere.

I have always enjoyed home renovation shows (I have remodeled one home and partially remodeled another.), and I love to see how people decorate. I now have a routine when I arrive for a sit. I take in the surroundings and appreciate their sense of style and the fact that they are entrusting me with their home and pets.

One of the best things about this lifestyle is that I see more of my adult kids now than I did in previous years. I schedule enough sits in the Seattle area that we get together quite often throughout the year. And Mom isn’t asking for their help with projects around the house. We just enjoy each other’s company.

Here’s to the year ahead! I wish you peace and happiness.

No Apologies for My Solo Nomad Lifestyle

August 13, 2023

I have been here in Hawaii (aka The Big Island) for a week—by myself. You are probably wondering what is wrong with me. Does she smell awful? Why doesn’t she have any friends? Seriously, who would go to Hawaii alone??

Well, it just didn’t work out this time. I had been holding a place for my older son, and he had to bow out due to other commitments. Then I tried a couple of friends. One had too many things scheduled in August, and another may be able to join me for a few days at the end of the trip. A single guy friend figured it wouldn’t go over too well with his new girlfriend. Fair enough.

So here I am, by myself.

The trip got off to a rocky start. My flight was delayed, and I was lucky enough to get a loud, kicking preschooler in the seat behind me.

By the time I checked in and got settled for bed, it was 3:00 AM back home.

My first full day in Hawaii consisted of sleeping in, exchanging my malfunctioning rental car, grocery shopping, and a late afternoon swim before dinner. Ah, paradise!

While driving around that first day, I heard the high wind warnings on the car radio. Hurricane Dora was passing south of the Hawaiian Islands.

In case you’ve been living in a cave, I’ll tell you what happened next. Dry conditions and high winds caused devastating wildfires on Maui and some smaller fires here on the Big Island.

I took a nice long beach walk Tuesday morning before the winds kicked up. I then spent the afternoon and evening safely in my condo, watching the trees sway, palm fronds and branches dropping to the ground.

The news the next day was heartbreaking. Beautiful, historic Lahaina had been devastated by the fires. As of today, we know that more than 100 people lost their lives.

Hearing that news about the neighboring island put a damper on the joy of my visit. I stayed close to my accommodations on Wednesday since a section of the highway was closed due to the fires.

I went out to attempt a hike on Thursday morning, hoping that the winds had calmed. Nope. Still super windy. Instead, I opted to shop at the health food store and Foodland in Waimea. At this point, I clearly was not going to starve. In my defense, I rarely eat out.

Finally, on Friday morning, I headed way up to Pololu on the north end of the island to hike the short but steep trail down to the black sand beach. Now I could start fully enjoying my time on the islands. This was the Hawaii I knew and loved.

Yesterday, I went to three farmers’ markets up in Waimea, all unique and lively. Hawaiian farmers markets make me so happy. I love seeing the exotic fruits and vegetables and meeting the people who grow them.

I enjoyed a leisurely shoreline walk in the afternoon and went for my pre-dinner swim, which has become part of my daily routine.

This is my first time alone in Hawaii, but I have visited a few times in the past. I’m doing what I want and settling into the pace of my days. I have the luxury of being here for more than two weeks, so the typical must-see tourist urgency is lacking. I sit out on the patio after lunch most days and read in the shade. This morning, I lingered on the beach and watched turtles for an hour.

From this day forward, I will never apologize for my solo travels. (Although, I’m happy when friends can join me, and I won’t complain if Mr. Wonderful shows up to accompany me.)

In a couple of days, I’m heading to Hawaii Volcanoes National Park. I’ve arranged a two-night stay in the area to fully explore the park. Not a screaming deal this time but worth it for the location.

I got online today to make a dinner reservation at The Rim restaurant in the park. Even though I prepare most of my own food, I occasionally go out to eat. This restaurant has been on my “to do” list for a while along with some hikes in the park. I’ll burn the calories and enjoy the splurge.

For the first time, I had the option of making a reservation for ONE. (Usually, the dropdown options start at two.)

I feel like it’s a good sign.