Tag: travel

Hiking the Trails and Towns of Tinos

June 11, 2024

I’ve spent the past several days on the beautiful island of Tinos. It had been on my list of Greek islands to visit, partly because it boasts over 300 kilometers of hiking trails.

My favorite mode of travel is by foot. I don’t roam the world with a big backpack; I’m a day hiker and city walker. One can see so much more while walking, and I love the serenity of roaming the countryside.

Day One:

On my first full day on Tinos, I took a short, easy walk from Chora (the port town and capital) to Kiona. This one was more of a walking route than a trail, but the scenery along the coast was gorgeous! Kiona pretty much consists of a beach and a historic site. If you’re into history like I am, you will want to pay the 3-euro fee and take a look at the Sanctuary of Poseidon and Amphitrite. The ruins date back to the 4th and 2nd centuries BC. Quite impressive!

On the way to Kiona, I spotted a lovely little beach next to the church on the old harbor. I stopped for a swim on the way back, which was divine.

Day Two:

I started from the central bus station by the port and rode up to Arnados to begin my hike. The route took me to the Monastery Koimisis Theotokou, Mountados, Karya, and Triptamos. From there, I hiked back down to Chora. It was a long day of hiking, and the winds were blowing at 20-30 mph with gusts over 40. In total, I calculated about 12 kilometers for the day.

Arnados was my first mountain village. Each village has its own charm, and Arnados is lovely. The walking route guided me through the town and out to the road toward the monastery.

Along the way, I saw some steps heading uphill. I had time, so why not check it out? (I tend to do things like this.)

After climbing up the steps, dodging thistles all the way, I arrived at the remains of a windmill. The ancient path continued up, but I had an extensive itinerary planned for the day and headed back to the road.

I had made the mistake of leaving my big scarf back at my apartment, so I was not allowed to enter the monastery. (The scarf can be wrapped around to substitute for a skirt. Women are prohibited from entering monasteries in shorts, even knee-length ones.) I walked the grounds a bit and continued.

The path led downhill to a small church. Then, the trail markers disappeared. I relied on Google Maps for a walking route and ran into fenced-off spots at a couple of points. I wonder if farmers were trying to keep livestock in or tourists out!

Back on the road, I continued on the route to Mountados. This one is not to be missed! The route takes you down into the village and back up and out. You will be charmed at every turn.

I took a break here, at what used to be the community washing site, to escape the wind and rest my feet.

The next village, Karya, was not far down the road. Right on the walking route, you will come to Taverna Kapua. If you’re hungry or thirsty, stop for a break. The owners are friendly, and the dog is sweet!

The path took me up through Karya. I arrived at an inviting plaza in front of the church. There were trail markers and a map. I didn’t want to add distance to my route, so I headed back down toward Triptamos.

By the time I reached Triptamos, my feet were hoping that I was almost home. Of course, I couldn’t bypass the village, so down the steps I went. Again, the town was very sleepy, with hardly a soul to be found. There was a cute inn, but I didn’t see any restaurants.

I walked up and out of the village to find the route back to Chora. I went down a small side road, hoping it was the way to the T1 trail. Yes, it was!

The scenery on the way down was beautiful, and partway there, I came to this church. It was unique because it was painted blue (not white) and had two alcoves. Not far from the church was an abandoned building.  My best guess was that it was an abandoned monastery.

As I approached Chora, I encountered my first fellow human hikers of the day. We waved hello and carried on. I also encountered some of those +40 gusts as I approached my apartment. The wind was so strong it nearly knocked me down at a couple of points.

Day Three:

I took the other bus (There are only two routes) up to the northern end of the island to Pyrgos. Pyrgos is known as one of the prettiest towns on the island, and I agree. It is cute and inviting for the tourist crowd. Unlike some of the other villages, it has several cafes, restaurants, and shops. It’s also home to a few museums showcasing marble crafting.

From Pyrgos, I walked the road to Panormos on the coast. There’s an inviting beach and an extensive marina. I had my best lunch of the week at Tama. There are several restaurants to choose from, so maybe shop a little in Pyrgos and have lunch at Panormos.

The day’s highlight was the hike back to Pyrgos on the E2 trail. After walking back behind the town, you quickly climb the mountain and enjoy stunning views of the coastline, Panormos, and the surrounding area. Along the ancient path, you will encounter the remains of old windmills, several stone dwellings, and goats.

Day Four:

Back on the original bus, I rode to Falatados to hike the M2 Trail. This is known as the Geo Route because you soon find yourself surrounded by boulders. The route is also quite green, so I felt like I had been transported to a different island. Walking toward Volax, you see the Aegean from the coast opposite Chora.

Volax can’t be reached by public bus, but it is one of the best tourist stops. It’s a picturesque village with cafes and artists’ shops. I lingered for a while, chatting with a couple of the artists.

Continuing on the M2 Route, you will find an interesting church in the rocks. Be sure to go inside this one, as it is unique.

Unfortunately, I kept hiking up past the church. Eventually, I realized I had lost the route (I was supposed to return to the dirt road). I did get to see these two cute tiny churches, though! And the goats kept me company as I used their trails to get back to the road.

The trail continues in a loop to Mirsini and back to Falatados. I missed the connection and ended up walking the road in the wrong direction. (It was my day to get lost!) I had fun strolling among the boulders with the goats and saw some of the island’s vineyards, so no big loss. I do have a tendency to get caught up in the moment; part of the love of wandering!

When I realized my error, I didn’t have time to get back and complete the M2 trail. I made my way back to Falatados on the road in time for the afternoon bus.

Day Five, Last Full Day in Tinos:

I was tired. My legs and feet were in no mood for one more day of hiking. I opted to take the bus to Kardiani, the last village that I wanted to see. It is situated on a mountainside, and it is beautiful! From the moment that I stepped off the bus, it was all stairs! So much for my day off. Kardiani had some unique features, including two springs and three gorgeous plazas.

The trail will take you down to the seaside if you are up for the climb back. You can also hike to Isternia for more captivating views and marble crafting. I will have to save that trek for a future trip.

Kardiani is charming, but like many villages, little is going on. The café/grocery store (one place) was closed. One restaurant was open, and it had fabulous views out to the Aegean. It was also completely covered in vines—very cool! The prices were reasonable, and the service was very good.

The problem with visiting Kardiani by bus was that I had to wait about four hours for the next bus to return. It happened to be a hot day, so the wait felt very long.

Resources: The Tinos Trails Website was incredibly helpful. Home – Tinos Trails There are descriptions of each trail with photos and maps. (I know, how did I get lost?)

Be sure to consult the KTEA bus station for the latest schedules. Apparently, they change quite frequently. And have fun hiking on Tinos!

Sifnos: Cute Little Greek Island


June 11, 2024


I’ve spent the past three weeks in the Cyclades, a circle of Greek islands south of Athens.
My original plans did not include Sifnos, but sometimes, Greek ferry schedules cause itinerary changes. I could not go directly from Serifos to Naxos, but I could get a ferry to Sifnos and travel to Naxos from there. Rather than just stopping on Sifnos, I decided to book two nights and cut short my stay on Naxos.


So glad I did! Sifnos is a day hiker’s dream. From the moment I arrived, I knew that I would want to stay longer.
I had just spent a week at a yoga and meditation retreat on Serifos, and one of my fellow participants was on the ferry with me. She had plans to meet a friend who was arriving later in the day, so we stopped at the tourist information office before getting lunch.
The gentleman working there was cordial and helpful. I immediately spotted the hiking trail map and knew I needed no further information. He showed us some of the most popular sights on the island. My new friend had some questions, so I excused myself and checked in at the office where I would get my apartment key. They said I’d be able to check in by 2:00 PM, so I went back to the tourist office to find my friend.


She and I enjoyed a lunch of Greek salad and chickpea soup. The soup is an island specialty; you must try it if you visit! Then she was off to explore the ceramics shops, and I went to get settled in my new place.
There wasn’t time for a hike that afternoon. Well, I could have hiked, but I wanted to rest. And the beach was calling me out for an afternoon swim! I had my plan set for the morning, though.
At 7:15, I took the first bus of the day up to Apollonia. Upon arrival, I spotted the display just for hikers. I was pretty excited, my kind of island! I took the #3 trail through town and onto an ancient path. It was well-marked most of the way.

I stopped at the Panagia Vrsis Monastery. No one was around except for a dog, barking on my arrival.


I noticed the ancient door was open a crack and walked in. Still, I saw no one. A little eerie but quite beautiful. I took a quick tour and got back on my route.


I eventually arrived in Platis Yialos on the beach. I took a snack break at a little park where a local man was getting his workout. I had to contain my giggles as he grunted his way through. Then, he broke out in song. Quite entertaining!
I continued walking up the beach road toward Chrisopigi Monastery. Its location on a rock in the Aegean is one of the island’s highlights.


Around the bend from the monastery lies an inviting beach. It was nearly noon, and I stopped at the beachside taverna for something to eat. Yes! The chickpea soup was on the menu. This version was more like stew and made good fuel to continue the journey. It came with a quarter of a lemon. I have to say, the flavor is magical. (Sorry, I deleted the soup photo!)


I didn’t walk much further, though. I took the #2 trail along the beach and up to another little church before heading to Faros. At that point, I would have had to put in some significant distance to get to a bus stop. I opted for a taxi back to Kamares instead.


My driver was entertaining, playing Greek music for me. We took a side trip to Apollonia so he could pick up some luggage to bring to the ferry port. He pointed me to the local sweets shop to get a treat while he got the suitcases. I had already decided to return, but he confirmed that I must see more of the island someday.
I returned to my little apartment in time for an evening swim before dinner. Such a lovely beach!
Even though I only spent one day hiking on Sifnos, I’m grateful for the experience. When I return, I will stay in Apollonia, as I can start several different hikes from there.

My Meteora Experience

June 4, 2024

When planning extended trips abroad, I make a somewhat detailed plan and reserve accommodations a few months ahead of time. But I have learned to make reservations that can be canceled because plans change.

A couple of weeks ago, I made such a change. I decided to leave the island of Kos early and head to mainland Greece before a week-long retreat. I won’t go into detail about why I left Kos early—Kos has a lot to offer, and I recommend a visit.

A friend of mine raves about Meteora and was perhaps a little disappointed that I hadn’t planned to go there on my second Greek adventure. Well, change of plans; time to see Meteora!

If you’ve never been or never seen pictures, Meteora is out-of-this world! Dating back at least 1000 years, religious folks have been inclined to dwell there. Hermits have lived in the caves on the towering rocks, and Greek Orthodox monks have built beautiful monasteries on top of the rocks. At one time, there were 24 monasteries. There are now only 6 active monasteries remaining.

Fair warning: even if you take a tour bus, you need to be ready to walk some slopes and climb some stairs. St. Stephens is the only one with easy access.

I stayed in Kalabaka with the intention of hiking to the monasteries. I ended up cheating a bit but was very happy with my experience.

First, I got lucky with a last-minute booking. If you know me, you know that I mostly stay in studio apartments so I can cook my own food. With Celiac disease, it’s easier, and I save time and money. I then have the freedom to eat out when I choose.

My apartment was quite spacious with a view of St. Stephens, one of the two nunneries. The long balcony was shaded all afternoon, allowing me the perfect place to rest.

Hiking Day One

I started from my apartment at about 8:00 AM and took the trail up to Holy Trinity Monastery. It’s a pleasant path, shady most of the way, which is helpful as you gain altitude.

On my way up, I encountered first an older Greek man and then a younger Greek man, both on their way down. Then a young American man passed me going up. I told him that I was preserving my energy for the day, and he said, “You look great!” Nice to get some motivation from a stranger.

When you get to the top of the trail, there are still over 100 stairs to conquer before reaching the monastery. Even though the sign said that it opened at 10:00, a few of us were entering before 9:30.

Holy Trinity is probably the most photographed of Meteora’s monasteries. It sits rather perfectly on top of its rock. (I took this photo the next day from a different angle.)

In the garden area, I saw the young American man again. We sat and conversed for about half an hour. It was a much-needed break. He said he was heading to St. Stephens next. I didn’t walk with him but had the same plan.

So, down the stairs and up the long, paved walkway I went. I saw a path to the right and figured it was a way to avoid walking the road. Thankfully, it was, and I reached St. Stephens about 40 minutes later.

By then, the tour buses had arrived. I was grateful to have had the quiet, uncrowded experience at Holy Trinity. I briefly encountered the young American man and exchanged a few words.

Even though it was crowded, St. Stephens is beautiful, and all the monasteries have wonderful views. St. Stephens also had an interesting gift shop that included some items made by the nuns. I asked questions about the products, and the nun seemed pleased by my interest. The St. John’s Wort oil that I bought does seem to work well for massaging sore muscles!

I started walking toward the other monasteries and realized that I needed to save some energy for the next two days. I ended up taking the trail back to town and my apartment.

Hiking Day Two

I decided to walk through the smaller town, Kastraki, to reach some of the other monasteries. As I walked through, I decided that if I returned, I would stay in Kastraki. It’s smaller than Kalabaka and has a calmer vibe. The homes are well-kept, and there are oodles of flowers.

I got distracted by some ruins of a monastery on the side of a rock and decided to take that smaller, less-traveled road. Looking at Google Maps, I figured I could take a trail to cut back through. I was ready for an adventure anyway.

I ended up visiting a monastery that was out in the country and not built on top of a rock. The monk was very welcoming, and I had a unique experience where I sat down and chatted with him in limited English. He offered me cookies and coffee. I tried to explain my celiac disease, and at first, he thought I was diabetic. Google translator helped a bit! I was grateful for the experience as he said they only get a few visitors a day at most. (On Google Maps, the name of the monastery was only in Greek; so, I can’t add it here. Sorry.)

I then continued, trying to make a loop. I stopped at a tiny church that was locked. Bummer. A well-marked bike trail eventually got me back to a main road.

I survived with just one blister on my big toe. My best estimate is that I hiked about 12 miles.

By the time I arrived back at the apartment, I had about 90 minutes to eat, rest, and shower before my sunset tour. (It began at 3:45.) I got to see Saint Nicholas Monastery (more stairs to climb) and saw the exterior of the other monasteries. The sunset wasn’t exactly spectacular, but our bus driver and tour guide were! It was a minibus with only 18 passengers, so we had a personalized experience. We also saw some things that I wouldn’t have been looking for on my own.

St. Nicholas from the parking area

Views from St. Nicholas

11th Century Byzantine church in Kalapaka

Abandoned monastery

Hiking Day Three

I figured out a plan to go for a walk while preserving my blistered toe and visit the last must-see monastery on my list.

I took a taxi up to Roussanou, the other nunnery, and wore my sneakers instead of my hikers. As predicted, Roussanou was the prettiest of all. The garden was stunning, and the grounds were well-kept. Inside the church, people were lighting candles and praying. It was a beautiful experience.

Looking back up at Roussanou as I walked down the road

After the visit, I walked down the winding hill at a leisurely pace. I stopped to take photos that you’d never get from a tour bus and took a nice break in the old town section of Kastraki.

My plan worked out well, and my feet were thankful for the shorter itinerary.

I saw several bicyclists making their way uphill and ran into two Spanish men my age toward the end of my walk. They were excited that I spoke Spanish, and I helped them in the right direction. They were getting started in the heat of the day; it was 11:40 by then. I was glad to be headed back.

As I reached Kalabaka, I stopped at the Digital Projection Center to watch the 3D films. One was about Mt. Olympus and the other two were about Meteora. Well worth the three-euro admission. The tour guide from last night had recommended it.

After yesterday’s long day of walking, I felt like I needed to catch up on eating. I stopped at Taverna Yamas for some fresh and tasty food. I had shrimp swimming in olive oil and tomato sauce topped with feta, and grilled mushrooms with balsamic. Both were delicious. I was so busy eating; I didn’t even share any shrimp with the cat who was patiently waiting.

For me, Meteora was an amazing place that everyone should see if they can. We’re talking bucket list like the Grand Canyon or Machu Picchu. I would happily go back to experience it again. I hope you see it someday, too!

Why You Should Stay in Delphi (rather than take a one-day tour from Athens)

May 24, 2024


I recently spent two nights in Delphi and wish I had stayed longer.
The archeological site is incredible! I mean, we’re talking about the center of the ancient world. The archeological museum is small but top-notch, with some beautiful and very old statues dating to the 5th and 6th centuries BC. (You’ll pay one admission fee for the archeological site and museum. I believe it was 12 euros.)

Since I was staying in town, I was able to arrive at the site when it opened at 8:00. There were only about four other people at the site with me from 8:00-9:00.


But I encourage you to explore the town of Delphi, too. It’s a charming village built on the mountainside. Its six horizontal streets are connected by several staircases, all unique and charming in their own ways. The views of the mountains and the Sea of Corinth in the distance are captivating! And, down on the valley floor is Greece’s largest olive grove. (We’ll come back to that later.)


Delphi is known as a foodie town, too. My limited gluten-free, low-meat diet doesn’t allow me to try everything, but each dish I tasted was delicious. I highly recommend Taverna Vakhos. Their menu is carefully marked with gluten-free, vegan, and allergen symbols. I ordered an appetizer of potatoes with oyster mushrooms in a turmeric sauce. It may not sound that interesting, but it was incredible. My main entrée was artichokes with lemon sauce. The menu said it was accompanied by other vegetables, peas, and (oops!) more potatoes. The portions were enormous; fortunately, my room had a small refrigerator.
At Taverna Gargadoyas, I had a late evening bite of giant beans. The owner said they were his favorite, and his 84-year-old mama still makes them. Even if that isn’t true, (who knows?) they were to die for. I had only ordered a serving of beans but was given a small plate of cherries for dessert. In fact, at every restaurant in Delphi, I was served a dessert on the house.


I was impressed with the generosity and kindness of all the restaurant staff. As a solo traveler, I’ve previously had not-so-great experiences: being ignored, being seated at the bar…not in Delphi. I was an honored guest at each restaurant.
On my second full day, I walked the ancient path from Delphi to Kirra. The idea of walking through Greece’s largest olive grove intrigued me. I couldn’t resist the draw of the Gulf of Corinth either. Even though it’s mostly downhill, it’s still quite a trek, over 11 kilometers. Fortunately, a bus in Kirra will take you back up to Delphi.

This sweet dog sat in the shade and waited for the bus with me!


The owner of the pension where I was staying (Sun View Guesthouse: a bargain at 50 euros/night!) suggested that I also take the hike to the lookout above Delphi. Sadly, my time and energy were limited. Next trip!

Can you believe it? A view like that for 50 euros a night!


So, please, take at least a couple days to eat and walk through historic Delphi. Enjoy!

Lessons Learned from Two Years of Nomad Life

April 12, 2024

Two years ago, I sold my home and most of my possessions to embark on a life of more adventure, higher happiness, and less stuff. I’ve experienced a lot and am still figuring it out. Here are some of the things I’ve learned along the way.

There are no Rules

Everyone has an opinion or wants to throw out an acronym. Did you FIRE? Are you a Slomad? Some people give up all their possessions and live out of backpacks, while others keep a home. I’m somewhere in between. I no longer own a home but have a car and rent a storage unit. And no, I don’t sleep in my car.

The reality is—who cares about labels? Do your own thing. I initially considered living as an expat in Spain. I soon realized I preferred moving around and experiencing different cultures. Additionally, I love my friends and family in the US, so I spend about half my year here.

If you’re thinking of giving it a try, do just that. Try it out. Maybe you can take a leave of absence and go on an adventure. I have been an enthusiastic traveler my entire adult life. As a teacher, I could take long summer trips once my kids had left the nest. I had a pretty good idea of what I was getting into. Living as a nomad is different than taking a ten-day vacation, though.

This lifestyle isn’t for everyone, and that’s okay.

Don’t Make Big Plans

Plans change. That’s the reality whether you live a nomadic life or not. When I returned from an extended visit to Europe in December 2022, I found my sister in an unhealthy state. I dropped all my plans to take care of her. Sadly, she passed away from pancreatic cancer a few weeks later. But I am happy I could be with her in her final weeks.

I do, however, make general plans. It’s April, and I have a skeleton plan for the rest of my year. That’s partly my personality and partly that I get requests for house sits. Would you turn down two weeks taking care of a cat in Hawaii?

Housesitting is a Huge Budget Saver

I first learned about housesitting over a decade ago, and it has been part of my retirement plan ever since. I have to say, I mostly love it. I enjoy meeting new people and their pets, and pet parents are grateful for the service. I also get a free place to stay with furry roommates.

I have completed nineteen house sits in the past year. Six have been for friends, thirteen from Trusted House Sitters, and two have been “no pet” sits. The length of sits has been between three days and seven weeks. A couple pets have been a little challenging, but it has mostly been a positive experience. Some people leave snacks, and some invite me for dinner the night before the sit. In total, I have stayed for free 165 nights over the past year, and I’ve made new friends, too.

Get a Credit Card (or Two) to Support Your Lifestyle

I have one card that gets me free hotel stays and one that racks up airline miles. Some people continually open new credit cards to get free points. That’s not really my style. But again, I’m not making the rules.

Call in Your Support People

I am fortunate to have friends and family members who support me in various ways. I have a home base and permanent address with a family member. Several people in my life have offered me a place to stay, whether I’m traveling around the western US or needing a place to crash between house sits.

When I travel outside the country, I have a family member and a friend who allow me to park my car on their property.

Not everyone has such good fortune; I am grateful for their support.

You Meet a lot of Interesting People

I strike up more conversations with strangers than I used to. I believe I am more open, given my lifestyle. Another aspect is my “dog magnetism.” Ever since I started pet sitting, I tend to chat with dog owners, even when I’m not walking a dog.

While abroad, I’ve met some fellow adventurers and have started meeting up with new friends in other countries.

Find the Combination that Works for You

As I stated earlier, I like to spend part of my year in the Western US near friends and family. I love southern Europe and will never tire of Spain, Portugal, and Greece. But there are many parts of the world that I have yet to see. This year, I will be checking off more bucket list destinations.

I look at my budget as a yearly number. House sits don’t cost me much. However, a little apartment in Oslo is more expensive than one on a Greek island. It all evens out in the end.

The nomad life isn’t for everyone. I’m still figuring it out, and my lifestyle continues to evolve. Sometimes, I feel like I need to do more; then, I remember the high-stress life I was living before I made this change. I haven’t worked in nearly two years, but I don’t know if I’m fully retired. I am open to working remotely, part-time, or seasonally in the future.

So, two years later, am I living a happier, simpler life with a lower stress level? Yes! And the adventures continue.

Reflecting and Planning

January 4, 2024

As 2024 begins, I reflect on my first full year as a nomad.

The biggest question is, “Am I happy with the nomadic lifestyle?”

Yes! Absolutely. As the months pass, I can’t imagine returning to my former profession, teaching.

I never thought I would be so happy to be unemployed. (I still don’t believe I am retired.)

I wake up grateful every day for the sights I see, the people I meet, and a more relaxed lifestyle.

New Experiences in 2023:

  • House and pet sitting: From May to July, I mostly house-sat and pet-sat. My favorites have been the “one-dog sits.” Cats are easy, but dogs are good company, and at least one daily walk is guaranteed. It’s also a huge budget saver!
  • European National Parks: I visited Plitvice and Mljet in Croatia and Teide and Garajonay in the Canary Islands. The national parks in Croatia were stunning! Trails were well-marked and easy to navigate. Tiede, Spain’s highest peak, is located on Tenerife in the Canary Islands. I visited on a group tour that included star gazing. It was an unforgettable experience. I also spent a day on La Gomera in the Canaries, which is primarily a National Park. Absolutely gorgeous!
  • The Greek Islands: I spent about a month in Greece, starting in Athens and moving on to Crete, Karpathos, Rhodes, and Santorini. Each place had its unique character, and I enjoyed all of them. There are over 200 islands to explore in Greece, and I have plans to return this spring.
  • Reading: Okay, I have known how to read for a long time! I have always struggled with leisurely reading, though. I no longer feel guilty about spending the afternoon with my nose in a good book.

Plans and Changes for 2024:

  • More weeks of house sitting and pet sitting: I have been pet sitting since the middle of December when I arrived home from an extended trip to Europe. (I was able to schedule the sits around family Christmas celebrations.) And I will spend most of my days on sits through April. Requests have come my way, and I can be picky about pets and locations. I’m currently enjoying a gorgeous view of Puget Sound.
  • Volunteer Work: I’m researching options for volunteer positions both here in my home state and overseas. I’m hoping to make this part of my lifestyle.
  • Travel farther from home: I am going “Down Under” for the first time. After spending September in the Hawaiian Islands, I will head to Sydney, Australia, in October. I still need to plan the rest of the trip, including New Zealand.
  • No big US road trip: The past two years, I took off on extended road trips around the Western US (seven and ten weeks). Although I enjoyed those trips, which included visits with friends and family, I don’t have an open block of time this year. I will make some shorter trips instead.
  • Cruises: I haven’t been on a cruise ship in several years. I have mixed feelings about cruising, but incredible deals are out there as the cruise lines recover from the pandemic. And most cruise companies are responding to solo travelers with single rooms. It’s definitely worth checking out.

Two years ago, I never imagined that I would be living this lifestyle. I get a kick out of telling people that I am a nomad. Their reactions are almost always positive, and I enjoy answering their questions. Some people can’t believe that I no longer have a physical home. I have adapted and find it easy to make myself “at home” almost anywhere.

I have always enjoyed home renovation shows (I have remodeled one home and partially remodeled another.), and I love to see how people decorate. I now have a routine when I arrive for a sit. I take in the surroundings and appreciate their sense of style and the fact that they are entrusting me with their home and pets.

One of the best things about this lifestyle is that I see more of my adult kids now than I did in previous years. I schedule enough sits in the Seattle area that we get together quite often throughout the year. And Mom isn’t asking for their help with projects around the house. We just enjoy each other’s company.

Here’s to the year ahead! I wish you peace and happiness.

A Very Long Travel Day

November 30, 2023

A few days ago, I had to do something I’d rather not do. But sometimes, plans change, especially when you live as a nomad.

I was supposed to fly from Tenerife to Seville on November 26th. I would enjoy an afternoon in one of my favorite Spanish cities before hopping on a midday train the next day to Mérida, a city that has been on my “must-visit” list for a few years.

But then a certain Irish discount airline messed up the works. They canceled my flight to Tenerife and delayed my return flight by one day. I was not too happy about the canceled flight. Rebooking with another airline was a bit pricey, and I had wanted to avoid a long travel day.

First, I had to check out of the resort where I had been staying and move to a place down the street. My resort was nearly booked, and I couldn’t bear to pay that much for one night.

Then, I didn’t sleep well on Sunday night. I rarely sleep well when I have a morning flight. I don’t know if I will ever overcome this.

There I was, wide awake at 3:00 AM when I could have slept until 6:15. And I didn’t get much of a breakfast because the restaurant wasn’t open yet.

At the airport, there was a short line to check my suitcase, so I had two hours to kill. At least the departure area was clean and relatively uncrowded.

The flight took off on time at 9:15 and landed on schedule at 12:35. I even caught a few winks on the plane. Not bad.

My train wasn’t leaving until 5:54, and I was looking forward to some time in Seville. I got an Uber to the train station, where I planned to deposit my suitcase in the luggage storage.

“We don’t have luggage storage here. We used to, but we don’t anymore. People ask for it all the time. There are a couple of private places nearby, though.”

Gee, thanks.

The first place I tried required measurements of my suitcase in centimeters. Then, I needed to download their app and get a special code for the self-service locker.

No chance! I’m not leaving my precious suitcase in a place that isn’t monitored by a human. And how would I know the measurements in centimeters, or even inches, for that matter?

I found another place and walked in that direction. That place must have gone out of business because it wasn’t there.

By this time, I was a bit frustrated, and I’m pretty darn stubborn. I would simply roll my beloved travel companion into downtown to a tapas bar I wanted to check out.

The tapas bar did not disappoint and was absolutely worth the walk. They specialized in gluten-free items, which made my heart sing. And it wasn’t just the typical Spanish tapas. This was gourmet stuff!

I noticed that the couple next to me appeared to be American, and she was gluten-free, too. At one point, we ended up chatting. They were on a two-week trip around Spain, culminating with their friend’s wedding near Madrid. I helped them plan their afternoon and thoroughly enjoyed the conversation.

After lunch, my suitcase and I rolled over to Las Setas. I had never seen this part of the city on my recent trips to Seville. (Las Setas is relatively new, completed in 2011. By the way, Las Setas means mushrooms in Spanish.)

In southern Spanish cities, where it gets unbearably hot much of the year, they find creative ways to make shade. This creation is the coolest (pun intended) I’ve seen yet!

On my stroll back to the train station, I stopped for a hot chocolate. The friendly bartender even gave me a discount. My day was getting better and better.

I noticed that my phone battery was low. So, I returned to the train station with ample time to charge it before getting on the train.

Satisfied with that, I stepped inside the bookstore at the station and noticed several titles in English. I picked up a good read for the three-hour-plus ride ahead. (Sometimes, you just want to feel the pages.)

The train left on time but arrived about a half hour late. It was closing in on 9:00 PM, and I was weary.

The Mérida train station was quiet. I had to call to get a taxi. So glad I speak Spanish.

The ride to my apartment was less than ten minutes. Ah…

But there was one problem: I was hungry! That tapas lunch was a long time ago, and I’m the kind of person who can’t sleep with a growling stomach.

I got online, and it looked like there was a decent grocery store not too far away—it was open until 9:30.

I walked through the dark, empty streets to see that the store had closed early.

Back online, I found another store that would be open until 10:00.

I arrived to find it was also closed.

On the route back to my apartment, I found a little convenience store. It would be popcorn, an avocado, and some turkey lunchmeat for dinner. At least I wouldn’t starve.

I had to believe the apartment had been empty for a few days because it was cold, colder than outside.

I finally got comfortable and fell asleep around 12:30.

I happily slept until 9:30 AM.

The next day, I loaded up on groceries including some of my favorite Spanish items. I would not go hungry for the rest of the week.

Greece: Four Islands, Four Distinct Experiences

November 4, 2023

I have been traveling in Europe for about two months. Most days, I am somewhere between a state of contentment and awe at what I have seen and done.

I started this trip in northern England, followed by Croatia and Slovenia. I’ve seen countless historic sites and several national parks. I have walked my socks off, or at least worn holes in them.

I have just left Greece after nearly a month there, which brings me to the focus of this post.

I started with a much-too-short stay in Athens. Why did I think I wouldn’t like Athens? I love walking through history, and my visit to Rome several years ago remains one of my favorite destinations.

After Athens, I flew to Crete for a week. I had reserved an apartment at a resort and enjoyed a mix of leisurely resort time as well as some sightseeing. It was a perfect. I was able to see my “bare minimum” sights but also slowed down and even took advantage of the on-site spa.

My limited impressions of Crete in October: Go! It’s a fantastic island with so many things to see and do. I barely scratched the surface, really. I did the typical outings to Spinaloga, a small island fortress, and hiked the Samaria Gorge. I took a day trip to the Palace of Knossos and spent a day in Heraklion.

In case you didn’t know, Crete is huge, the largest of the Greek islands. There is a distinct Cretan culture. The food is delicious, and the people are lively and proud of their heritage. It’s on my definite return list.

From Crete, I got on a ferry for Karpathos. I’m still not sure if I love Greek ferries. (They take a long time.) But I did enjoy meeting some fellow travelers from the US, a family of five taking a year out to travel the world. I love that they are giving their kids an unforgettable experience that may open many doors for them.

Karpathos is a relatively small and less touristy island than many; at least, that’s what my guidebook says. The guidebook also told me to chat with the friendly locals, which I certainly did. They were, indeed, quite pleasant for the most part.

Beyond the cute town of Karpathos, there was little going on. According to the locals, the tourist season ends on October 15th, and I had arrived just after that. The only downside was that the local bus company had decided to stop its runs to the historic town of Olympos on the day I had planned to go. The driver I spoke with was rather abrupt: “There are no more trips to Olympos. That is done.”

Funny, the gentleman at the bus office had just told me the day before that there would be a bus if enough passengers showed up. I guess the other guy changed the plan on him.

Anyway, I had a great time wandering the island, getting a little bit lost, and swimming in the bay every afternoon.

My cute little apartment in town had a view of the sea with a lovely veranda on which I ate breakfast and dinner every day. It was glorious!

In fact, one of the best days of this trip was when I walked from Karpathos Town around the western peninsula. It was a gorgeous sunny day, and I encountered no humans, just goats and many tiny churches.

My impressions of Karpathos in October: Go a little earlier than I did. I regret that I wasn’t able to make it to Olympos. (It would have been more than 100 euros by taxi.) I very much enjoyed the island and the neighboring small towns. It, too, is on my revisit list. Next time, I plan to go in the spring.

A few days later, I got on another ferry, this time bound for Rhodes, one of the larger Greek Islands. On the ferry, I met a recently retired couple, she American and he French. They assured me that there would be a lot going on in Rhodes. They also encouraged me to return to Karpathos in the spring, telling me it was the best time to visit.

They were right about Rhodes. Rhodes town was quite a contrast to Karpathos. First, two large cruise ships were in the port when we arrived. The Old Town area was certainly bustling! I walked to my apartment, taking in the scene, thinking it would be a nice change.

Unfortunately, I didn’t fall in love with Rhodes.

When I visited the Old Town the next day, it felt overly packed with people. I did my thing and toured the Archeological Museum (a definite highlight) and the Grand Master’s Palace. Seeing these sights was just fine; the streets of the old town overwhelmed me, though. It felt like a packed series of shops and restaurants. I just wanted to get out!

The next day, I had a tour booked for the Acropolis of Lindos. It wasn’t actually a tour; it was merely a bus ride. The driver dropped us off at 10:20 and said, “See you back here at 3:20.”

No instructions. No, pointing out where to go. Just see you later.

We had to walk down a rather steep hill and through to the town of Lindos to get up to the Acropolis. It felt a lot like the old town of Rhodes and was rather labyrinth-like. Then there were the people in no physical condition to climb up to the Acropolis. One woman was holding up a rather large group before her husband finally got her off to the side to head back down.

I was happy I had made the trip as the Acropolis and surrounding areas were gorgeous.

But five hours was a long time. I had brought my suit in case I wanted to swim. Glad I did.

As I arrived at the beach, I saw a restaurant with gluten-free items marked on the menu. A shrimp salad sounded so much better than the snacks I had packed.

The salad was indeed tasty, and I had a sea view to go along with it. I decided to splurge and get one of those beach loungers. (I am not one to lie on the beach. Tanning is not my thing.)

I made the most of the afternoon and enjoyed the beautiful, warm water.

That evening, I didn’t feel quite right.

By morning, I was pretty ill with food poisoning. I spent the day in bed, thankful I had extra bottled water.

The next day, I got up and took a slow walk to Rhodes’s Acropolis and ancient stadium. The Acropolis wasn’t nearly as impressive as Lindos, but the stadium was fantastic.

My impressions of Rhodes in October: If you’ve never been, it’s worth a visit. The old town is charming, as is the port area. The beaches in town are rocky and unimpressive. I’m glad I went once, but I wouldn’t return.

Santorini was missing from my original itinerary. Everyone goes to Santorini, and I wanted to see some of the smaller, less popular islands. Early November’s lack of ferry service forced me to adjust my itinerary. So, Santorini, it was!

I have to admit, I loved it! I stayed in a studio apartment in a small family-owned resort on Oia’s “not caldera” side. It was actually between the tiny historic town of Finikia and Oia. Perfect for me, because I like to walk. The stay included a generous breakfast every morning, and the buses throughout the island were running on a full schedule.

When I arrived, my host sat down with me and a map and planned out the next few days for me. What a treat to have good old-fashioned personal service in this era of contactless check-ins. She also encouraged me to go to the local taverna in Finikia for dinner. The food was fantastic, and the atmosphere was exquisite! The food poisoning incident had killed my appetite, and that meal started to bring me back to life.

I spent the first full day wandering Oia and walking down to the harbor. It is that picture postcard place that most of us think of when someone says Greek Islands. That first glimpse of the town made me gasp.

The next day, I got on the bus and headed to the archeological site in Akrotiri. This Minoan site was buried in ash from the 1316 BC eruption. (Somewhat like Pompeii, but not quite as impressive.)

Afterward, I took a short hike to the red-sand beach. (The tourist boats had stopped running the day before!)

As I walked back toward the bus stop, a waiter/cook lured me into his restaurant for lunch, where I saw the chicken cooking on the spit. He gave me a sample, and I was sold!

The next day, I took the bus to the mountaintop town of Pyrgos. It’s relatively small but worth an hour or so. I walked the narrow winding streets and stairs up to the church, with an adjacent café. It was a rather windy, chilly day, and they had Italian hot chocolate on the menu. I was in heaven!

After catching the bus back to Fira, I walked the trail from Fira to Oia.

My feet were tired, but the adventure was worth it! I highly recommend the hike.

The final day in Santorini was leisurely. I walked around Oia, ate a salad that didn’t make me sick, napped by the pool, and played with the resident kittens.

My impressions of Santorini in October-November: Go! It’s gorgeous, and there is still quite a bit going on. Some restaurants and activities shut down on October 31, so be ready for that.

Sunday Wander on Karpathos

October 22, 2023

This is what got me started today. It’s called Poseidon’s Temple, and it’s about a 25-minute walk from where I’m staying in Pigadia, Karpathos, Greece.

It was Sunday morning, and I was due for a good walk. I was still feeling the pain of my hike in Samaria Gorge on Crete last Thursday; I thought a good walk might ease the pain and stretch me out a bit.

Apparently, Poseidon’s Temple is an ancient burial site. There are two caves behind the gate, and one certainly looks like a burial chamber. There were no signs, and I stumbled upon it accidentally when I was studying Google Maps. Perhaps I will learn more when I visit the archeological museum tomorrow.

I was in the mood for a longer wander. So, I continued down the road. I thought I might go visit one of the beaches on the other side of the island. My swimsuit and towel were in my backpack just in case.

Then, around the corner, I saw this:

The village of Menetes up on the hill (mountain?). I was feeling pretty energetic, the weather was perfect, and it was only a little after 9:00 AM. I could swim back in Pigadia this afternoon.

Then I was reassured a few minutes later when I saw this sign:

I was on a designated walking route. All good.

And there was the carrot on the stick; that cute village kept getting closer and closer.

As I ascended, I could see the bay by Pigadia as well as the other side of the island.

I also snagged a ripe fig from a tree. Delicious!

The views were better and better as I approached the war memorial outside of Menetes.

View of Pigadia

There was also a small chapel (They are everywhere in Greece!) just a hundred feet from the memorial, and the door was open. I stepped in. It was cool and peaceful inside. I was thankful for the resting spot.

The cemetery between the war memorial and town:

As I walked into town, there was a little stand with local goods. I had been seeing similar stands all over Croatia and Slovenia earlier in the trip. Three people were sitting around the table. (I took the photo later.)

The owner struck up a conversation with me.

“We saw you walking up. Where are you from?”

“The United States.”

“But where?”

“Seattle.”

“Oh, Seattle, Washington. I lived in the U.S. in 1977, in Washington DC, the other Washington. Today is the last day. I will give you a good deal.”

He really wanted to sell me some wine or olive oil, but I need to think about volume and bulk. Instead, I bought some dried figs, a lime, a small jar of olives, and some mixed herbs. I would consume all but the herbs before continuing to my next destination.

We continued to chat, and he offered me some fresh grapes.

“They aren’t so good. You know, they are the last of the Mohicans.”

I thought they were pretty tasty.

He advised me to make the chapel up above town my final destination and sent me on my way.

Most of the homes can be reached only by stairs. The townspeople must all have great legs!

View of the town from the big church:

After more and more stairs, I arrived at the chapel above the town. It was also open!

And, of course, the best views of the day at about 1650 feet! This is a view of the south end of Karpathos.

It was nice to be seemingly the only tourist in town today. The walk up was peaceful, and the gentleman at the stand was the first person I had encountered besides a couple of workers on the side of the road.

The funniest things happened later on the way back, though.

As I was walking back on the main road, a taxi started honking at me. He pulled up and asked if I needed a ride.

“No thanks. I’m walking.”

“I’ll give you a ride for free!”

Okay, that was a little creepy.

Then, a few minutes later, two men driving a car with a rental company logo slowed down and asked if I needed a ride. They laughed when I told them, “No Thanks. I’m walking.”

About twenty minutes later, another taxi slowed down and asked if I needed a ride. At least he didn’t seem to mind when I refused.

I wonder if some tourists get hot and tuckered out, so they are used to picking up people on the way down. It was over nine miles round trip, after all.

I arrived back at my apartment just after 1:00 PM and enjoyed a hearty lunch on the balcony, satisfied with the day’s wandering.

And yes, I did go for a swim in the afternoon.

When Will I Learn About Sundays?

October 9, 2023

When you’re retired and living a nomadic life, it’s easy to forget which day it is.

I arrived in Lake Bled, Slovenia, at lunchtime on Saturday. If you’ve ever been here or seen pictures, you know it is an enchanting place. It’s easy to forget the day of the week when you’ve arrived in a fairy tale.

After getting off the bus, I rolled my suitcase down to the lake and caught the first glimpse of the castle. It was a warm autumn day, around 72 degrees. Check-in was at 3:00, so a nice open-air lunch was the answer.

Not only did I get a healthy and delicious salad, but it was the first place I had encountered in Slovenia with gluten-free beer on the menu. What could be more perfect? Celiac’s delight!

After walking down along the lake for fifteen minutes or so (not a exactly a fantasy with a suitcase in tow), I arrived at the apartment at precisely 2:59.

After getting settled, I walked to the nearby grocery store to pick up some items for dinner and breakfast. It was one of those barely stocked places. No eggs and very little in the way of quality produce. It would be a simple soup night. I figured I’d go out for breakfast.

Then, it was time to walk around the rest of the lake’s perimeter. From the apartment, the views of the little island with the church kept getting better and better. On top of that, church bells were ringing from two directions.

Eventually, I ascended to the castle and, to continue the fantasy, there was a wedding! (Sorry. I didn’t take pictures of the wedding.)

Forgetting that night was coming earlier and earlier, I stayed up at the castle grounds to watch the beginning of sunset. Ah…

When I woke up the next day, I thought I could get breakfast at one of the two restaurants nearby. Nope.

I went to the first place, and all that was offered were beverages. At least I could enjoy a nice cup of tea. Strange that a restaurant with a hotel attached did not serve breakfast. These things happen while traveling in the off season, though.

I checked over at the other restaurant. The owner and a friend were sitting down having a smoke and coffee. No, they weren’t serving breakfast, either. She suggested I walk into town for a nice breakfast at the bakery. That wouldn’t work for this gluten-free girl.

And all of the grocery stores were closed because it was Sunday.

Later, I ended up having a nice lunch of sausage and bean soup, and I splurged on a steak dinner that night.

Maybe forgetting about Sundays wasn’t such a bad thing.

Next Sunday, I will try to plan ahead. More likely, I will forget which day it is.