Yesterday there was rain in the forecast. The skies were cloudy, and a few drops fell here and there. I enjoyed a three-hour Spanish lunch with an old friend from high school and three of her Spanish friends. The most expressive of the group kept joking about the threat of rain, saying things like, “I think four drops just fell.”
Murals in the neighborhood where we had lunch (near the port)
Throughout the afternoon, it was like that, a little spit from the sky here and there.
After I arrived home, I decided an early evening walk was needed to work off the three-course lunch. The spit turned into a steady sprinkle, and once I sat down for a light dinner of soup and salad, it was legitimately raining.
Making the most of the fresh produce from Ruzafa Market
It rained steadily through the night, and I woke up to that familiar pitter-patter of perfect rainfall this morning—not an out-and-out downpour, but pleasant, steady drops that require a rain jacket or umbrella.
Valencia needed a shower in the worst way. Just yesterday, my friend commented that the streets seemed dirtier than she remembered. She was concerned that her favorite Spanish city was going downhill.
At lunch, her Spanish friends told us about the rising electricity cost and water scarcity. I imagine people aren’t going out and washing down the sidewalks in front of their businesses as Spanish usually do. Also, dog ownership grew dramatically during the pandemic. Even though most people clean up after their pets, there is residue of poop and pee. It all made sense now.
The rain is supposed to taper off by 9:00 or so. After I finish this second cup of tea, it looks like a good day for the archaeological museum.
Valencia’s Archeological Musem is not to be missed. You’ll want to see what is under the water feature!
Do you ever think about space and what it means to you? No, I’m not talking about the stars, planets, universe kind of space—these days, I’m thinking about the spaces we occupy.
Why?
I sold my home a few months ago and have been traveling or staying with friends and family ever since. I’ve occupied various hotel rooms, condos, and bedrooms at friends’ houses. This is all by choice, mind you. Don’t get worried that this poor woman is desperate and homeless. I’m taking some time out, a self-imposed sabbatical, to see what’s next.
In Lisbon, Portugal, I recently stayed in a studio apartment that was smaller than most hotel rooms. There was just enough space to walk around the double bed; I’m sure it was less than eight feet wide. The kitchenette was on the wall opposite the bed, with a skinny bar-style table for two and a small desk in between. I’m not really complaining, though. It did have two big windows, which at least made it tolerable. It was also equipped with a safe in the entryway, a foot-long bar with six hangers, and an iron and ironing board, a rarity in European hotel rooms. Someone had put a lot of thought into making that tiny space efficient. And really, you’re in Lisbon. Get out and see the sights instead of hanging out in your room!
Tiny Lisbon Apartment
But I needed to take some breaks to rest, and I could barely stand in the room. It just wasn’t enough space. In contrast, I stayed in a studio in Porto, Portugal, that was at least double, possibly triple, the size. It was equipped with a Juliette balcony plus two large windows. The ceilings were at least ten feet high, and I loved it! The kitchenette was well-equipped, and I did quite a bit of cooking, saving the expense of eating out. (I’m also a health nut with Celiac Disease.)
Spacious, light-filled Porto Apartment
Two days ago, I arrived in Valencia, Spain. This is the longest stay of my 90-day European adventure. I’ll be here for four weeks. I got lucky on Airbnb and found a super-cool apartment in a desirable area—Ruzafa. The host is particular about his renters. There is a minimum twenty-day stay with a maximum of two people occupying the apartment. It’s a rather large two-bedroom apartment, at least 1000 square feet. I think he initially rented to bigger groups and had some negative experiences.
I’m in love with my Valencia apartment!
The online pictures looked enticing, and all the reviews were five-star. That made me hopeful. I liked that the owner was picky; that meant he cared about the property. He had worked to preserve the original character of the apartment, which I appreciate. Of course, he doesn’t want someone trashing it.
From the man bedroom, access the balcony through this window.View from the balcony
When I arrived, I was pleasantly surprised. It was even better than the photos had indicated. The owner should have shared charming features like the small atrium with plants on the wall. Each room has natural light. The primary bedroom has bay windows, and the smaller bedroom has a balcony attached, which can also be accessed through a tall skinny window in the master. The kitchen has been updated with new appliances and a sizeable refrigerator.
Modern kitchenSpacious and well-equipped
But the best part is the great room space. At least one wall was removed to create an open space. It has floor-to-ceiling windows, some with colored glass, about 12 by 12 feet. You read correctly, 12-foot ceilings! I’m sitting here typing at the midcentury desk, surrounded by plants, facing the wall of windows. The great room space is about 20 by 20 feet in its entirety. One corner provides the perfect space for my temporary yoga studio. The original tile mosaic floors in the dining area and those in the bedrooms and entryway have been preserved. I genuinely feel privileged to occupy this space for a few weeks.
The perfect place to write
For some people, space is insignificant. For others, it is everything. My twenty-something sons don’t care much about space. When my older son got his first job out of college, he moved across the country and lived in a one-bedroom apartment with no art on the walls that was furnished with a bed, a chair, and a TV. That’s it. The rest wasn’t necessary for him. He knew he’d only be there for two years, so he wanted to avoid investing further.
When I was younger, space wasn’t that important to me either. After studying in Spain for a semester, a friend and I traveled through Europe for six weeks with backpacks and Eurail passes. We stayed in some dumpy rooms with terrible beds and sometimes shared bathrooms. I’d never survive that now.
Since divorcing nine years ago, I have lived in several places (even before selling my most recent home). I now understand that I was searching for the right space. I lived in a two-story townhome-style condo for four years, which was tolerable. The downstairs had nine-foot ceilings and oversized windows with views of evergreen trees. Not bad. The main bedroom upstairs was large, but the ensuite bathroom was small. I renovated the bathroom, which made it more my space. Besides that, I haven’t lived in a place for over two years. It’s been a restless stretch.
Sitting here now, I know what I need to be happy: natural light, ample space to move around, a well-equipped kitchen, and inviting spaces to read, write, and practice yoga. I don’t care how small the bedroom and bath might be. I don’t live in those spaces. It’s all about the space I occupy in my waking hours.
It’s nice to finally be here. After a month of traveling from place to place, I get a break from the daily pressure to see things or to move on to the following location.
I arrived two days ago around 5:45 PM. Disembarking from the plane was slow, but my suitcase was already waiting for me at baggage claim. The Valencia airport is modern and small, and I found the taxi stand easily.
My taxi driver, the first female driver I’ve ever encountered in Spain, was a real character. At first, she didn’t say much. Then she asked if I spoke Spanish. Once I responded, the floodgates opened! She was a talker. She told me about Spain, where to visit, and who spoke the best Spanish in the world. (In Spain, it was the people of Valladolid.) She also held the Basques in high regard. She described them as more rigid than other Spaniards with a stronger work ethic.
My residence for the next four weeks
By the time we got through traffic, it was almost 7:00. My host was in the apartment awaiting my arrival. He, too, was excited and a bit relieved when I told him I spoke Spanish. He responded that it made explaining everything a lot easier for him. He’s clearly a meticulous fellow and takes pride in the apartment. The vintage apartment has mosaic floors in the bedrooms, entryway, and dining area. The windows are original, including the not-so-easy-to-operate wooden blinds. He’s taken steps to preserve the original beauty as much as possible.
Light and bright! The perfect place to write.
As soon as he left, I walked to the conveniently located Consum grocery store just around the corner. I find Spanish city grocery stores fascinating. From the outside, they often appear small, but when you walk in, most of them are amazingly huge! They go back deeply into the city block. Occasionally, you will walk into one that is two stories. My host had recommended this one because the prices were reasonable, and it is so close.
I grabbed as much as I thought I could carry (It was plenty.) and headed back to make a simple dinner of thin beef steaks, fried potatoes, and green beans. I also bought a tiny bottle of wine. I looked up the conversion, and it was 6.25 ounces, a glass for one. Not bad for 1.29 euros!
I slept well, as I usually do on travel days. Lugging that heavy suitcase around tends to wear me out. And the bed is comfortable. Yes! What would be worse than being stuck with an uncomfortable mattress for four weeks?
I woke up Tuesday morning refreshed but in no hurry. After breakfast, I walked to the Ruzafa Market. It’s not the prettiest Spanish market, but they had everything I could want. I walked the aisles, taking it all in, and decided to go with a mother-son team. Their prices looked good, and they weren’t talking on and on like some of the other vendors were. I know; it’s part of their social life, so I can’t complain. I also bought some olives, walnuts, and a treat made from sesame seeds.
Not the prettiest market in Spain……but they have everything you could want.
Back at the apartment, I did my laundry and made a big pot of chicken-vegetable soup. It was nice to cook again after staying in hotels for eight days. That had really started to get to me in Seville. I felt a bit trapped there! I read a bit in the afternoon, relaxed on the sofa, and fell asleep. The rest was needed.
By 4:30, I regained energy and walked through the neighborhood and the Turia. I spotted a large health food store called Herbolario Navarros. What a find! They had more gluten-free items in one place than I had ever seen! They even had my brand of magnesium supplements, which I needed to refill.
Back at the apartment, I got on the computer and chatted with friends on Facebook. I’m looking forward to seeing my high-school friends, who will arrive in a couple of days. She lived in Valencia with her first husband and knows the city well.
I received a lengthy message from my host with suggestions and links to places to visit. He listed some of the more popular ones I have already seen, like the Cathedral, botanical garden, and Ceramics Museum, but there were many other places I had yet to see or would not have known about. So glad I have time to see them all!
I searched to see if any concerts were coming up at the Palau de las artes. Amazingly, there was a free concert the following evening. There were only about 20 seats left in the back, but one can’t complain about free! Looking forward to that tonight.
Palau de las artes, ValenciaMy free nosebleed seats were fantastic indeed!
What a week it has been here in Porto! It’s always nice when something exceeds expectations, and Porto certainly has. I have been charmed by the city since my driver dropped me off a week ago. My little studio apartment is in an ideal location, and I’ve had fun cooking in my petite yet fully equipped kitchen. (The convection/microwave oven is the bomb.)
The hills of Porto have helped me burn calories. My legs are looking good. In fact, I feel healthier. I am recuperating from the stress of the past three years. It feels good to let go and just enjoy the experiences.
I am also getting better at just rolling with it. I am well aware that life is not going to go to plan. Sometimes the unexpected ends up being the best or most memorable. I remember missing the bus the other day. The walk down through the Foz ended up being better than riding the bus. Then today, I had planned to go on a bike ride. It ended up being a rainy day, so that idea was out. Instead, I went to the little cheese shop up the street this afternoon, and I’m so happy I did! When was the last time you had a sausage grilled at your table?
Not what I was expecting!Keeping my distanceHouse sheep cheese with house-made pumpkin jam! Incredible!Not to be missed when in Porto!
Things I loved about Porto:
My little studio apartment. The location is perfect, just a block from Santa Catarina pedestrian street and the Majestic Café.
The stone sidewalks. Hard on the feet but so charming!
People are generally amiable and feel down to earth. I’m not feeling any snobbery here.
Whimsical and lively public art
The carillon (it looks like a huge cuckoo clock) rings every quarter hour starting at 9:00 AM and plays a song on the hour. I didn’t see it in person until the end of my week here!
Sorry! Bad pic. I took this from the apartment.
There are hills, lots of hills. You’ll stay in shape walking here.
One-hour full body massage for 30 euros.
Lots of musicians and singers throughout the city streets
Groups of people spontaneously break out in song.
The Douro River is gorgeous, and the scenery is varied.
Parks and plazas.
Tiled buildings, especially the churches
Market equal to Spanish markets (I have traveled extensively through Spain.)
Today was a good day, despite being September 11th. Back home, the smoke from forest fires is thick and so harmful that some people are staying in. I have beautiful clear skies here. So much to be grateful for!
It’s Sunday, so I got up and went to Mass. Okay, I didn’t get the best sleep; it was a noisy Saturday night! I know I didn’t get to sleep until after midnight. When I woke up around 7:00, I set the alarm for 9:30 and went back to sleep. My body has been begging for rest. It is partly because I am letting go of my stress and emotionally recuperating. In addition, I walk like a crazy woman every day. Either way, it is all good. My body feels strong and healthy. The Iberian life is good for me. The “not-teaching high school life” is also good for me.
Mass at the Cathedral was at 11:00, about a ten-minute walk from here. Perfect! I showered, shampooed, and even put on some jewelry and my nicest blouse. I wish I understood more Portuguese because I could tell it was a good sermon. I made out that he was talking about God and peace and that God’s peace was for everyone. The priest was young, about 40, and had a pleasant demeanor. After Mass, in English, he thanked the visitors for coming and wished us a blessed visit in Porto. I could tell he was a good guy!
When Mass ended, the organist kept playing for about 20 minutes, which made touring the cathedral even more special. I’ve been to many cathedrals and churches in Spain, and I can’t say this one was amazing or outstanding; it was just a pleasant visit.
I walked around the plaza, checked out the view, got a few photos, and decided to find that little restaurant with gluten-free breakfast items. It hadn’t been that long since I had eaten breakfast, but I’m always up for a second round of chow! The gluten-free veggie crepe was interesting, but it could have been better if they had heated it enough to melt the cheese. I didn’t complain, though. It was nice to be in a gluten-safe place.
Gluten-free veggie crepe at Maria Limao
I realized I hadn’t picked up my tour book pages or a map before leaving the apartment, so I returned after lunch. I did a little yoga and decided that a nap would be a good idea. Just 20 minutes to get recharged.
View from the Clerigos Tower
I then took off to do the upper part of the Rick Steves walking tour. Oh my! I think he had me walking the steepest streets in the city! And there were a couple of detours with all the construction going on. I saw some more plazas and parks and the Clerigos church and tower. Definitely worth the visit! I also went to the Imperial McDonalds; I didn’t order anything, but at least I saw it. Satisfied that I had finished my sightseeing, I stopped at the Pingo Doce before returning to the apartment. I had plans to roast a chicken for dinner and enjoy an afternoon GF beer.
The chicken was pretty fabulous. I added leftover lemon, figs, onion, and olives. I roasted some potato, onion, and the rest of the carrot in a separate pan. It was quite the gourmet dinner, along with last night’s leftover green veggies.
Lemon-fig chicken with roasted potatoes on the side!
After dinner, I went for a walk down the Santa Catarina. A musician was singing and playing his see-through guitar while wearing a white see-through skirt. He was wearing a man-thong under it; I could see when I walked behind him!
Today was a good day. I woke up feeling almost normal, cooked a delightful breakfast, and walked to the Bolhao Market. It is in a temporary location, just until this Saturday. Then the vendors will be moving back to the newly renovated original market location.
The market was not crowded at all! It appeared that they were happy to have my business. In fact, they were all quite friendly, except for the olive oil lady who would not look up from her phone. I don’t know if she was deaf, disabled, or what. She would not look up. Maybe she was mad that she had to work and ignored all the customers.
That was okay because I ended up buying olives and olive oil from another stand run by a grandmother, her daughter, and her granddaughter. The teenage girl spoke perfect English and was the translator for her grandmother, who kept talking to me in Portuguese.
I wandered a bit more and ran into the Sao Bento train station with the tile murals. It was worth a look!
Then I found the gluten-free bakery, but they are closed for vacation until after I leave. I then looked for comfortable sneakers to allow my feet to breathe in the humid heat. I went with some Sketchers. The extra cushioning helps with the stone sidewalks!
Abundance from the Bolhao Market in Porto!
Back home, I put away my groceries and heated up some soup for lunch. Still delicious!
I had a massage scheduled for 4:00 PM, so I thought I might take a river cruise. On the way, I stopped to ask about the Hop On Hop Off Tour Tickets. The man showed me my options, and I took the two-day pass with a river cruise for 24 euros. I wanted it to activate tomorrow so I could fully use it. He activated it through the tenth and said I could use it today. Four days? Okay!
I decided to get on the Blue Line and ride to scope it out the whole way. The route went to the Atlantic with some really enticing spots on the way. I will make tomorrow my park day, or Friday when the weather is better. So glad I got to see all the sights and get better oriented. It’s nice to be here for a week and not feel rushed.
Sights from the Blue Bus
When I returned, I walked around a bit more and found some reasonably priced sunscreen and a smaller water bottle that would fit in my purse. I then got myself turned around and went in the wrong direction. It’s easy to do here since the streets wind all over!
The massage was fantastic! And only 30 euros. It was a full-body massage, and I mean full-body. She even massaged my abdomen. Wow! She must have been realigning my Chakras. She also slathered me with oil. Quite a cultural experience.
On the way back to the apartment, I stopped at the little cheese shop and got some of the smoked cured ham to try. I can’t say I loved it; the flavor was too strong for me. I chopped some in bits and sautéed it with my green beans. I made roasted sweet and white potatoes, garlic, and carrots in the oven. That turned out pretty well! I’m having fun in my mini kitchen!
This trip did not get off to a good start for me. First, my flight was delayed by an entire day. The flight from Seattle to Dallas was an hour late, which meant I would not make my connection. Luckily, I learned this before arriving at SeaTac. (Always check your email before a flight!) It didn’t end up being too bad, though. I went back to sleep and got some much-needed rest. I then took a walk and relaxed, knowing that I would need to get up at 3:30 the following day for my 7:00 AM flight.
Today I feel relieved. The flights to Madrid went as smoothly as possible; I’m just not a good plane sleeper. Maybe someday I will be wealthy enough to fly first class. I arrived at my hotel on Sunday morning hungry and exhausted. Fortunately, I could check in at 8:00 AM because I had already paid for the room the night before. It wasn’t much of a room, but I can’t complain. I got a bargain rate for being close to the city center. My room had one window that faced one of those nondescript courtyards, you know, with a view of the apartments across. In other words, no view, just daylight.
I allowed myself some time to rest and got up around 11:30 to walk over to Retiro Park, about 7 blocks away. At that time, I realized I was dehydrated and constipated, a combination that often comes with long flights.
In my zombie-like state, I walked through the park and over to the Plaza Mayor and some other sights. It was warm but not oppressively hot, somewhere in the 80s. To ease my digestive distress, I stopped at a health-oriented restaurant. I had fresh-squeezed juice (carrot, pineapple, and orange) along with a custom-made salad. I walked as much as possible and returned to my non-descript hotel room.
I then realized that I was facing a severe digestive challenge. I drank lots of hot water through the afternoon; I was genuinely becoming uncomfortable. I should have made a trip to the farmacia right then, but I was exhausted. Big mistake!
By 2:00 AM, I was miserable. I got online and found a 24-hour pharmacy just a few blocks away. Given the hour, I asked the gentleman at the front desk to call a taxi. The driver showed me where to walk up the 24-hour window, and the pharmacist gave me the only remedy available without a prescription, laxatives.
It was a long night and a long day following that. I finally got relief at 4:00 PM the next day. Then I promptly got in the shower, walked through the neighborhood, and over to Eva Perone Park. Things were looking up! I would make my flight to Porto.
What a difference a day makes!
It was another early wake-up, at 5:15 this time. I still wasn’t feeling 100%, but I was well enough to get myself checked in at Ryan Air. Thankfully the flight to Porto was only 55 minutes.
Then, thanks to a free airport pick-up from Booking.com (Why I got this perk, I do not know.) I was greeted by my private driver, who took me directly to my apartment for the next week. He was familiar with Spain and was excited for me to become acquainted with his hometown. I should have taken notes as he went on and on about all the things I must do during my week here.
I received an early check-in, and the kind young woman carried my 18.5-kilo bag (almost 41 pounds) up two long flights of stairs.
The apartment is about as charming as it possibly could be. It is a studio in an older building with an updated kitchen and bathroom. It is small but perfect! I even have a Juliet balcony and two large windows—the complete opposite of my Madrid hotel room. The ceilings are at least ten feet high, and the street view is ideal. Not to mention, there is a sizeable grocery store two doors away. That was excellent news for this starving, exhausted woman!
View to the left from my Porto apartmentView to the right from my Porto apartment
I walked over and bought a bunch of groceries, including a grinder with salt and herbs. Such a great idea! I made a big pot of chicken and vegetable soup, perfect for my imbalanced digestive tract.
The salt grinder and herb grinder travelled with me for the next three months!
After lunch and a nap, I took off to explore the area. At first, I got a little confused with my directions, and, surprise, I ended up back at the apartment. Along the way, I booked a massage for tomorrow afternoon at 4:00. Yes, I will be able to find the place!
For my second outing, I headed down by the Douro River. Talk about picturesque; It is stunning! I had a feeling I would like Porto. I was having so much fun that I didn’t notice my phone was low on battery, and it quit on me. Initially, I panicked and thought something was wrong with it. I missed a few photos, but I am here for an entire week. I will get back over the bridge more than once, probably tomorrow.
The first of many amazing Portuguese sidewalk shots!One of the seven bridges of Porto
I might have taken yet another nap before facing the challenge of the microwave-convection oven with Portuguese wording. Thank you, Google Translator. The soup was good the second time, accompanied by some potato chips and flan for dessert.
I have some gluten-free places scoped out for the coming days, but it is nice to have my own kitchen, too! Fruit, bacon, eggs, and ginger tea for breakfast tomorrow.
Today was the day—I woke up at 5:00 AM, bags packed and ready to head to the airport. Today was when I was to leave on a long-awaited 90-day adventure to Spain and Portugal. Fortunately, I checked my email because my flight out of Seattle was delayed by one hour, so I would not make my connection in Dallas. So glad I did not learn this at the airport!
I waited in the kitchen until my cousin woke up, so I could share the bad news. But hey, my flight was rebooked for 7:00 AM tomorrow. That would mean heading out at 4:00 AM. We both decided to go back to bed. I crashed out and slept until 10:30.
I would have been devastated if this had been a short trip, say a week or ten days. But how can I be upset when I know I will be in Europe for three months? On top of that, school started this week, and I am not in the classroom. And hey, my hotel in Madrid is pre-paid; I can go right to check in when I arrive on Sunday morning. So much to be grateful for!
The past few years have taught me that I can make plans, but I need to be ready for them to change. I was supposed to be house-sitting in Valencia from September 4-20, but my new friends canceled two weeks after I bought my plane ticket. They decided to move back to the states in July. Then I changed my plans and decided to explore Portugal before heading to Spain.
I know there will be ups and downs, pleasant surprises, and devastating disappointments in the weeks ahead. This morning reminded me that I need to roll with it, and it will all be worth it. Adventure on—well, tomorrow!
One of the big plusses of moving to a beautiful part of the country in a new state is that people come to visit. Some people aren’t crazy about houseguests, but hospitality is in my blood. I love to have people over to share food and conversation, something that wasn’t so easy to do in my former home, a condo. Truly, one of the reasons I bought a sizeable house was to be able to offer guest rooms for friends and family. Think free B & B. I certainly could live in a smaller space, but I receive so much joy in providing a vacation spot for the people I know and love.
When I first told my sister that I was moving to Montana, she was excited for me while at the same time, a bit sad. She knew that I was ready for a change, but she also realized that with the greater distance between us, visits would take more planning. Then we talked about the fact that those visits would be longer and of greater quality, which has proven to be true. When she came out in September, it was a four-day visit, something we never would have done when we both lived in Western Washington.
This past weekend began a streak of houseguests for me. Old friends, who were on the last leg of a cross-country trek, made a point of putting me on their itinerary. They arrived in time for dinner on Friday night and were able to stay until Sunday morning. I’ve known them for twenty-four years, but this was by far the longest visit we had ever had. We certainly didn’t have sleepovers when we were both living in the same city, but now that we are empty-nesters, there is a true pleasure in just hanging out and catching up. It’s also fun for me to play host and tour guide, showing off the sights of the Flathead Valley and Glacier National Park. And it seems that with every new set of visitors, our explorations lead to a discovery or new experience, like visiting a local park or trying a restaurant for the first time.
It is still rather surreal when visitors show up at my front door. My first guests were my niece and her family back on Labor Day weekend. It was just a crazy coincidence that they were in the area for a wedding. Not only was it strange to have them appear at my front door, but the circumstances were pleasantly different. Our visits had historically involved large family gatherings filled with aunts, uncles, and cousins, so it was a nice change to have just the four of them over for a leisurely afternoon.
Simply stated, life is much better when shared with others. I’m looking forward to more visitors, more discoveries, and more memorable moments as guests arrive in the upcoming weeks.
Wandering Shannon 