Even though I left my profession more than two years ago, I still battle some guilt and anxiety for not working. On the outside, I see how silly I am because my main motivations to retire early were to enjoy a simpler life, lower my stress level, and travel. I chose this nomadic lifestyle but often punish myself for being too lazy. When I’m not planning adventures or experiencing new places, I sometimes feel like I should be working at a paying job.
Last June, when I was wandering through Oslo’s stunning library, Deichman Bjørvika, I spotted a book in English called Laziness Does Not Exist by Devon Price, PhD. The cover’s bold yellow, orange, and red color blocks caught my attention, as did the title. I snapped a photo, intending to download a copy when I returned to the States in July.
Funny that I would encounter the book in a foreign country. By the way, if you are ever in Oslo, be sure to go inside Deichman Bjørvika. Its exterior is captivating, but the interior is a marvel. You can even buy a coffee or lunch and enjoy the view from the lounge. And, of course, admission is free.
So, back to the book. I finally started listening to the audiobook a couple of days ago. I am currently housesitting on the Big Island of Hawaii. After playing tourist for a week, I am settled in for two weeks in a cozy house with a sweet old cat. I can literally do anything I want with my days as long as I feed the cat, give him some attention, and take care of a few household chores.
The author, Price, coins the term “laziness lie,” citing that we, as Americans, have basically been programmed to believe that we are useless if we are not productive. (If you haven’t read it yet, I highly recommend it.)
A chapter I listened to today spoke to the idea of savoring. Much of the book had resonated with my former overworked, over-stressed self, but this chapter spoke to me today. It gave me permission to enjoy the present moment and savor every little thing:
The soft fur of this sweet old cat.
The view of Mauna Kea that appears and disappears as the clouds roll by.
The taste of fresh local produce.
We all can get wrapped up in comparing ourselves to others and feeling pressure to report our activities on social media. I admit that I think about what to post on Facebook and feel a need to keep my friends entertained with my travel adventures. But really, it doesn’t matter what other people think; I can set aside the pressure and just share what I like.
I’m now going to focus more on savoring and less on guilt. Thanks, Dr. Price!
Two years ago, I sold my home and most of my possessions to embark on a life of more adventure, higher happiness, and less stuff. I’ve experienced a lot and am still figuring it out. Here are some of the things I’ve learned along the way.
There are no Rules
Everyone has an opinion or wants to throw out an acronym. Did you FIRE? Are you a Slomad? Some people give up all their possessions and live out of backpacks, while others keep a home. I’m somewhere in between. I no longer own a home but have a car and rent a storage unit. And no, I don’t sleep in my car.
The reality is—who cares about labels? Do your own thing. I initially considered living as an expat in Spain. I soon realized I preferred moving around and experiencing different cultures. Additionally, I love my friends and family in the US, so I spend about half my year here.
If you’re thinking of giving it a try, do just that. Try it out. Maybe you can take a leave of absence and go on an adventure. I have been an enthusiastic traveler my entire adult life. As a teacher, I could take long summer trips once my kids had left the nest. I had a pretty good idea of what I was getting into. Living as a nomad is different than taking a ten-day vacation, though.
This lifestyle isn’t for everyone, and that’s okay.
Don’t Make Big Plans
Plans change. That’s the reality whether you live a nomadic life or not. When I returned from an extended visit to Europe in December 2022, I found my sister in an unhealthy state. I dropped all my plans to take care of her. Sadly, she passed away from pancreatic cancer a few weeks later. But I am happy I could be with her in her final weeks.
I do, however, make general plans. It’s April, and I have a skeleton plan for the rest of my year. That’s partly my personality and partly that I get requests for house sits. Would you turn down two weeks taking care of a cat in Hawaii?
Housesitting is a Huge Budget Saver
I first learned about housesitting over a decade ago, and it has been part of my retirement plan ever since. I have to say, I mostly love it. I enjoy meeting new people and their pets, and pet parents are grateful for the service. I also get a free place to stay with furry roommates.
I have completed nineteen house sits in the past year. Six have been for friends, thirteen from Trusted House Sitters, and two have been “no pet” sits. The length of sits has been between three days and seven weeks. A couple pets have been a little challenging, but it has mostly been a positive experience. Some people leave snacks, and some invite me for dinner the night before the sit. In total, I have stayed for free 165 nights over the past year, and I’ve made new friends, too.
Get a Credit Card (or Two) to Support Your Lifestyle
I have one card that gets me free hotel stays and one that racks up airline miles. Some people continually open new credit cards to get free points. That’s not really my style. But again, I’m not making the rules.
Call in Your Support People
I am fortunate to have friends and family members who support me in various ways. I have a home base and permanent address with a family member. Several people in my life have offered me a place to stay, whether I’m traveling around the western US or needing a place to crash between house sits.
When I travel outside the country, I have a family member and a friend who allow me to park my car on their property.
Not everyone has such good fortune; I am grateful for their support.
You Meet a lot of Interesting People
I strike up more conversations with strangers than I used to. I believe I am more open, given my lifestyle. Another aspect is my “dog magnetism.” Ever since I started pet sitting, I tend to chat with dog owners, even when I’m not walking a dog.
While abroad, I’ve met some fellow adventurers and have started meeting up with new friends in other countries.
Find the Combination that Works for You
As I stated earlier, I like to spend part of my year in the Western US near friends and family. I love southern Europe and will never tire of Spain, Portugal, and Greece. But there are many parts of the world that I have yet to see. This year, I will be checking off more bucket list destinations.
I look at my budget as a yearly number. House sits don’t cost me much. However, a little apartment in Oslo is more expensive than one on a Greek island. It all evens out in the end.
The nomad life isn’t for everyone. I’m still figuring it out, and my lifestyle continues to evolve. Sometimes, I feel like I need to do more; then, I remember the high-stress life I was living before I made this change. I haven’t worked in nearly two years, but I don’t know if I’m fully retired. I am open to working remotely, part-time, or seasonally in the future.
So, two years later, am I living a happier, simpler life with a lower stress level? Yes! And the adventures continue.
As 2024 begins, I reflect on my first full year as a nomad.
The biggest question is, “Am I happy with the nomadic lifestyle?”
Yes! Absolutely. As the months pass, I can’t imagine returning to my former profession, teaching.
I never thought I would be so happy to be unemployed. (I still don’t believe I am retired.)
I wake up grateful every day for the sights I see, the people I meet, and a more relaxed lifestyle.
New Experiences in 2023:
House and pet sitting: From May to July, I mostly house-sat and pet-sat. My favorites have been the “one-dog sits.” Cats are easy, but dogs are good company, and at least one daily walk is guaranteed. It’s also a huge budget saver!
European National Parks: I visited Plitvice and Mljet in Croatia and Teide and Garajonay in the Canary Islands. The national parks in Croatia were stunning! Trails were well-marked and easy to navigate. Tiede, Spain’s highest peak, is located on Tenerife in the Canary Islands. I visited on a group tour that included star gazing. It was an unforgettable experience. I also spent a day on La Gomera in the Canaries, which is primarily a National Park. Absolutely gorgeous!
The Greek Islands: I spent about a month in Greece, starting in Athens and moving on to Crete, Karpathos, Rhodes, and Santorini. Each place had its unique character, and I enjoyed all of them. There are over 200 islands to explore in Greece, and I have plans to return this spring.
Reading: Okay, I have known how to read for a long time! I have always struggled with leisurely reading, though. I no longer feel guilty about spending the afternoon with my nose in a good book.
Plans and Changes for 2024:
More weeks of house sitting and pet sitting: I have been pet sitting since the middle of December when I arrived home from an extended trip to Europe. (I was able to schedule the sits around family Christmas celebrations.) And I will spend most of my days on sits through April. Requests have come my way, and I can be picky about pets and locations. I’m currently enjoying a gorgeous view of Puget Sound.
Volunteer Work: I’m researching options for volunteer positions both here in my home state and overseas. I’m hoping to make this part of my lifestyle.
Travel farther from home: I am going “Down Under” for the first time. After spending September in the Hawaiian Islands, I will head to Sydney, Australia, in October. I still need to plan the rest of the trip, including New Zealand.
No big US road trip: The past two years, I took off on extended road trips around the Western US (seven and ten weeks). Although I enjoyed those trips, which included visits with friends and family, I don’t have an open block of time this year. I will make some shorter trips instead.
Cruises: I haven’t been on a cruise ship in several years. I have mixed feelings about cruising, but incredible deals are out there as the cruise lines recover from the pandemic. And most cruise companies are responding to solo travelers with single rooms. It’s definitely worth checking out.
Two years ago, I never imagined that I would be living this lifestyle. I get a kick out of telling people that I am a nomad. Their reactions are almost always positive, and I enjoy answering their questions. Some people can’t believe that I no longer have a physical home. I have adapted and find it easy to make myself “at home” almost anywhere.
I have always enjoyed home renovation shows (I have remodeled one home and partially remodeled another.), and I love to see how people decorate. I now have a routine when I arrive for a sit. I take in the surroundings and appreciate their sense of style and the fact that they are entrusting me with their home and pets.
One of the best things about this lifestyle is that I see more of my adult kids now than I did in previous years. I schedule enough sits in the Seattle area that we get together quite often throughout the year. And Mom isn’t asking for their help with projects around the house. We just enjoy each other’s company.
Here’s to the year ahead! I wish you peace and happiness.
When traveling, do you ever think, “I’ll go back there someday and…?”
I do that a lot. In fact, I’ve been doing it since I was a teenager when I got my first taste of travel beyond my home state.
Since becoming a nomad, I have had several opportunities to “go back and…” The latest example is an 18-day trip to Hawaii, the Big Island.
I first visited fifteen years ago with my then-husband and two children. It was one of our most memorable family trips. We stayed in three different locations on the island for eleven days. In fact, one place we stayed, in Puna, was covered in the 2018 lava flows, so I truly can’t go back!
The one disappointment of that family trip was the weather on our visit to Volcanoes National Park. It was rainy, and both calderas were ensconced in fog. We didn’t get to see or do much.
More recently, I have returned twice, but each time I was with non-hiker people. I got to see Kilauea and Kilauea Iki, but I wanted to hike there. After the most recent visit, I promised myself to come back and hike.
This year, I returned by myself this time and did just that. I reserved an Airbnb close to the park for two nights and prayed for good weather.
On the first day, I started from the Devastation parking lot to avoid the crowds elsewhere. I then took the Byron Ledge Trail and kept veering left until I reached the east end of Kilauea Caldera. After that, I went to the right and hiked up to the Crater Rim Trail (parts of which are the old Crater Rim Drive). I opted to walk through the Kilauea Iki viewpoint and took a little side trip through the Thurston Lava Tube. Finally, I dipped back down to hike across Kilauea Iki and back up the Byron Ledge Trail to my car. The distance was 8.1 miles.
While hiking through Kilauea Iki, the winds picked up and brought in some fog. It created an extra-eerie effect on the already other-worldly trail. The trail becomes rocky at the far end of Kilauea Iki and makes for a challenging passage. I highly recommend hiking boots with Vibram soles for this endeavor.
On the second day in the park, I hiked through the Mauna Ulu flow (1969-1974) on the Napau Crater Trail (off of The Chain of Craters Drive). I didn’t put in as many miles, but I thoroughly enjoyed the unique formations left by the lava flows.
After the hike, I continued down the Chain of Craters Road to the ocean, stopping at every crater and most viewpoints.
When I reached the coastline, I pulled over on the second pullout and saw a sea arch. It wasn’t the famous Holei Arch that everyone goes to. I thought it was a lucky occurrence.
But wait, there’s more!
The Big Island has more than one National Park. Don’t miss out, especially if you enjoy history.
Pu’uhonua O Honaunau National Historical Park (Place of Refuge)
This is a highly scenic park with an exciting history. The trail is relatively easy, and you will see so much culture in a short walk.
I recommend starting at the amphitheater, where you can relax in the shade and watch the video that explains the history of this sacred site.
Kaloko-Honokohau National Historical Park
This is the place you want to go to (almost) guarantee some sea turtle sightings. (A ranger told me there was only one occasion when a visitor returned and told her that they hadn’t seen any turtles.) You will also learn some of the history of the ancient Hawaiians.
The main parking lot is easily reached off Highway 19, just a few miles south of the Kailua-Kona airport. If you aren’t big on walking, I suggest you check in at the Visitor’s Center and then take the short drive over to the Honokohau Harbor, where you can park and take a short walk to the beach, where you will likely see some turtles along with the fish traps and the Heiau (temple).
If you are up for a few miles, hike the “big loop” from the visitor’s center through the trail on the lava fields and up to the Kalako Fishpond. The pond was created by a “massive stone wall,” currently under reconstruction. It’s really something!
Afterward, you will continue hiking, mainly along the beach on varied surfaces, from very rocky to sandy beaches, back to ‘Aimakapa Fishpond and Honokohau Beach. Unfortunately, the final leg of the hike is a bit boring as you walk through the rocky lava back to the Visitor’s Center. Still, there are a few petroglyphs to see on the way.
I highly recommend hiking boots with Vibram soles for this expedition. It’s a relatively flat hike, but many sections are challenging because of the sizeable, uneven lava rocks.
Pu’ukohola Heiau National Historic Site (The Temple on the Hill of the Whale)
Don’t miss this one! I had visited the island three times before finally stopping at the visitor’s center on this trip. And then I went twice!
First, I hope you arrive when George, the park ranger, is on duty because he is the most enthusiastic ranger I have ever met. This guy loves his job! He also explained the difference between historic and historical to me. I will entice you to visit by saying this is probably the most important historic site to Hawaiians. But I really want you to go there and learn the history.
There is some hiking to be done here, but I must admit, I only walked out to the Heiau. No harm in leaving something for that next trip!
Now, your English lesson for the day. Both words are adjectives, and the following definitions are from Dictionary.com.
Historical: of, relating to, treating, or characteristic of history or past events
Historic: well-known or important in history
Therefore, to paraphrase Ranger George, a Historic National Park is where a significant event occurred. A Historical National Park shows the history of the place, but no important events took place there.
I have been here in Hawaii (aka The Big Island) for a week—by myself. You are probably wondering what is wrong with me. Does she smell awful? Why doesn’t she have any friends? Seriously, who would go to Hawaii alone??
Well, it just didn’t work out this time. I had been holding a place for my older son, and he had to bow out due to other commitments. Then I tried a couple of friends. One had too many things scheduled in August, and another may be able to join me for a few days at the end of the trip. A single guy friend figured it wouldn’t go over too well with his new girlfriend. Fair enough.
So here I am, by myself.
The trip got off to a rocky start. My flight was delayed, and I was lucky enough to get a loud, kicking preschooler in the seat behind me.
By the time I checked in and got settled for bed, it was 3:00 AM back home.
My first full day in Hawaii consisted of sleeping in, exchanging my malfunctioning rental car, grocery shopping, and a late afternoon swim before dinner. Ah, paradise!
While driving around that first day, I heard the high wind warnings on the car radio. Hurricane Dora was passing south of the Hawaiian Islands.
In case you’ve been living in a cave, I’ll tell you what happened next. Dry conditions and high winds caused devastating wildfires on Maui and some smaller fires here on the Big Island.
I took a nice long beach walk Tuesday morning before the winds kicked up. I then spent the afternoon and evening safely in my condo, watching the trees sway, palm fronds and branches dropping to the ground.
The news the next day was heartbreaking. Beautiful, historic Lahaina had been devastated by the fires. As of today, we know that more than 100 people lost their lives.
Hearing that news about the neighboring island put a damper on the joy of my visit. I stayed close to my accommodations on Wednesday since a section of the highway was closed due to the fires.
I went out to attempt a hike on Thursday morning, hoping that the winds had calmed. Nope. Still super windy. Instead, I opted to shop at the health food store and Foodland in Waimea. At this point, I clearly was not going to starve. In my defense, I rarely eat out.
Finally, on Friday morning, I headed way up to Pololu on the north end of the island to hike the short but steep trail down to the black sand beach. Now I could start fully enjoying my time on the islands. This was the Hawaii I knew and loved.
Yesterday, I went to three farmers’ markets up in Waimea, all unique and lively. Hawaiian farmers markets make me so happy. I love seeing the exotic fruits and vegetables and meeting the people who grow them.
I enjoyed a leisurely shoreline walk in the afternoon and went for my pre-dinner swim, which has become part of my daily routine.
This is my first time alone in Hawaii, but I have visited a few times in the past. I’m doing what I want and settling into the pace of my days. I have the luxury of being here for more than two weeks, so the typical must-see tourist urgency is lacking. I sit out on the patio after lunch most days and read in the shade. This morning, I lingered on the beach and watched turtles for an hour.
From this day forward, I will never apologize for my solo travels. (Although, I’m happy when friends can join me, and I won’t complain if Mr. Wonderful shows up to accompany me.)
In a couple of days, I’m heading to Hawaii Volcanoes National Park. I’ve arranged a two-night stay in the area to fully explore the park. Not a screaming deal this time but worth it for the location.
I got online today to make a dinner reservation at The Rim restaurant in the park. Even though I prepare most of my own food, I occasionally go out to eat. This restaurant has been on my “to do” list for a while along with some hikes in the park. I’ll burn the calories and enjoy the splurge.
For the first time, I had the option of making a reservation for ONE. (Usually, the dropdown options start at two.)
August 4, 2023 I have been living a nomadic life for just over a year now. There have been many adjustments along the way, and my lifestyle continues to evolve. Over the past few months, I have added house-sitting and pet-sitting. In fact, I’ve only paid for one night in a hotel this summer. I’ve hiked and paddle-boarded to my heart’s content and caught up with friends and family in my home state. Indeed, I can’t complain.
But being in my home area, there is also something I can’t avoid—my storage unit. When I sold my house and most of its contents last year, I gave up a lot, but not everything. I still have my car; the rest is in the ten-by-ten storage unit. I dread going to that storage unit. Why? It’s too full and too hard to find anything. I thought I had a great idea last spring when my son helped me set up two shelving units. But honestly, it is still too cluttered. Also, when my sister passed away last January, I re-inherited some things that I had given her. Becoming a minimalist is a journey, and I’m still working on it. My travel wardrobe is pared down, but I still have a few bins full of clothes in that storage unit. I will defend my winter wardrobe and sports-related attire, but I’m not sure if I have a decent excuse to keep the rest.
And then there are those bins of mementos, my personal history that I haven’t been able to part with yet. Perhaps I could reduce the number of containers. The bottom line is that I don’t think I will be a nomad forever. That’s why giving up some of those big items like my vacuum cleaner and favorite wool rug is hard. I plan to pare down a bit more when I return from my next adventure. I’m impressed with fellow nomads who have “a few boxes in someone else’s garage.” I’m not sure if I will ever get there, but that’s okay. We are each navigating our own journey.
Update: August 11, 2024
I did, indeed, manage to downsize my storage unit last spring before embarking on another extended European journey. In the process, I also saved myself some money by switching to a 7 x 10 unit, which was one-third the price!
Now I can roll out my bike and get to the items I’m seeking. I realized that I could dispose of some of those mementos and Christmas decorations without missing them. And paring down my wardrobe is a constant battle.
The dreaded storage unit no longer feels like a burden!
As part of my nomadic life, I have recently added pet and house sitting to my portfolio. Years ago, my now ex-husband and I had considered it for our retirement plan. The idea reappeared on my nomad Facebook group (GoWithLess), and I have done a couple of sits for friends. It’s an excellent way to cut my overall costs, too.
You see, I am a nomad, but I don’t live in a van or RV. I drive a Honda CRV. It gets great mileage, has plenty of room to haul my gear, and has the all-important all-wheel drive. I’ve resisted the van life because I spend time visiting friends in the US, and I like the freedom of a smaller vehicle. And when I’m out of the country, I leave it parked at a relative’s house. All good.
The other day, a friend asked how the pet-sitting was going. I wasn’t really sure. That might make a good blog post!
There are a lot of pros:
A no-cost place to stay. People also give permission to raid the fridge and freezer. Great for the overall budget!
Good company. It’s nice to have canine and feline companions after being on the road or out of the country for weeks.
Comfortable, spacious accommodations. For example, the place where I recently stayed has a gourmet kitchen and a gorgeous deck with a lush parklike backyard.
I’m doing something to help others. After teaching, raising kids, and doing my share of volunteering over the years, I have a need to help others.
Pet owners are oh-so-grateful for my services. Some dogs don’t do well in kennels, and it gives homeowners peace of mind to have the house occupied.
The downsides of house sitting and pet sitting:
You can’t predict the pet’s temperament. Dogs, especially, can be nervous or sad that their owners are absent.
You won’t know how noisy the neighborhood is until you get there.
You have to get through the “adjustment phase” of each sit. So far, almost every first night has been challenging and has left me short on sleep.
Depending on the pet(s), you may feel tied down. I have gotten used to the freedom to do whatever I want while I travel. Dog owners have asked me to limit my time away from home to as little as three hours. (Most allow longer periods away, though!)
If you’re considering house sitting/pet sitting as a means of budget travel, think about your preferences and comfort level.
Do you enjoy animals? If you don’t, please don’t even think about doing this!
Will you respect the pet owner’s wishes and adhere to routines?
Are you confident, and do you feel comfortable taking care of the pets and homes of others? It’s a big responsibility!
Will you be able to handle a pet emergency?
As of today, I plan to continue to pet sit for two or three months of the year while I am in the US. As a retired fifty-something teacher, people see me as a trustworthy candidate to care for their homes and pets. The reality is that more people are looking for pet sitters than there are pet sitters available. I regularly receive requests, and I’m learning to be picky.
I approach my budget as a yearly number, not monthly. By spending two or three months a year pet-sitting, I have more money to spend on international travel. For example, I’m planning to splurge on a trip to the Galapagos next year.
If you are interested, the site I use is TrustedHousesitters.com. (No, I’m not getting a kickback.) There is an annual fee for sitters and homeowners to use the site. All parties receive a background check and must provide identification. The premium plan gives sitters insurance, where you will get reimbursed for up to ten nights of hotel stays if a sit is canceled (up to $150 per night). There is also on-call veterinary support.
Some people think I’m crazy to sit for free, but I prefer it. If I were to establish my own business, that would involve setting up an LLC and getting bonded and insured. Then I would be paying taxes on the minimal income that I would make. To me, it wouldn’t be worth the fuss. My nomadic life is all about keeping it simple.
When planning a travel itinerary, sometimes it takes effort to guess how much time to spend in each place. At times I make adjustments, but I rarely wish I had spent less time in an area. That’s how I feel about Northern California. It’s hard to know how many days to allot if you’ve never been to a place. I’ve visited California several times, but all but one visit was to the coast. I had always heard about the beauty of Lake Tahoe, and I knew I’d easily be able to fill a week there. That part of the itinerary was spot-on.
Snow hiking above Lake Tahoe to Eagle Lake on Mother’s Day 2023Paddle Boarding on Lake Tahoe in May: Gorgeous!
It was the travel from Tahoe to Oregon where I short-changed myself. I had a mere afternoon to see Lassen Volcanic National Park. I could only get a little way into the southern entrance since the main road through the park was still snow-covered. I didn’t even make it to the northern entrance.
Lassen Volcanic National Park
I was also in a rush at Lake Shasta and Mount Shasta. Although I did well with my limited time (one day), I would love to return and see more of the area. In fact, that day at Mount Shasta, I yearned to get a camper van. I could picture myself chilling out for a few days at one of the campgrounds there.
Snowshoeing on Mount Shasta
The main reason for my pressed itinerary was a dog-sitting gig in Bend, Oregon. I knew setting myself up with no-cost accommodations for Memorial Day weekend would be wise. And, indeed, it was a good idea. My canine companion was a sweetheart. I visited local sights like the Newberry National Monument, the Deschutes River, and the High Desert Museum.
Lava Butte at Newberry National Monument near Bend, OregonBenham Falls, Newberry National MonumentObsidian Flow, Newberry National Monument
Tomorrow, I will start making my way back to Washington, my home state. More dog sitting on the agenda, and a Celebration of Life to honor my sister next Sunday. It will be good to be “home.”
Traveling during shoulder season is a great way to save money and avoid crowds. I have been on the road in the American West for seven weeks now. I’ve decided to call this trip “The Great Melt.”
March 31, 2023: Lake MacDonald in Glacier National Park
In early April, I enjoyed some end-of-the-season Nordic skiing and a day of snow hiking in Montana. All of the outings were crowd-free, as we saw few other people.
April 2, 2023: A friend and I hiked a partially thawed cross-country ski trailApril 5, 2023: My cousin and I skied up at Lost Trail Pass on the Montana-Idaho Border
A week later, I was in Park City. Even though the temperatures were rising to the low 60s, there was still some good skiing, especially if you got out in the morning. I literally watched the snow melt away during the week I was there (April 7-14).
April 8, 2023: Skiing the White Pine in Park CityApril 8-9, 2023: Round Mountain Trails in Park City, Utah
I then enjoyed a few days in the Grand Canyon. There was very little snow left in the Grand Canyon, and temperatures were comfortable. Spring break had wrapped up everywhere, so the crowds were manageable. It was a great time to visit!
April 18, 2023: A tiny bit of snow remained at the South Rim of the Grand Canyon
A week in Sedona followed by another week in New Mexico were all sunshine and comfortable temperatures in the 60s and low 70s. I hiked nearly every day; it was heavenly!
My weekend in Colorado Springs was perfect. I stayed close to the historic downtown and enjoyed a day at the Garden of the Gods. Even though it was a sunny Saturday, the park wasn’t overly crowded, and I could hike throughout in awe of the rock formations.
May 6, 2023: No snow in the Garden of the Gods, but the surrounding mountains were still snow-covered.
As it was getting into May, you might think snow time was over. Not this year! There was still quite a bit of snow when I arrived in Breckenridge, Colorado. Nearby Lake Dillon was frozen over but beginning to thaw. The hillsides around it were dry, making for some fantastic hiking.
May 9, 2023: Lake Dillon, Colorado
After a few days in Breckenridge, I started my journey west.
I arrived in Grand Junction, Colorado, in the early afternoon, which allowed me time to explore Colorado National Monument. Talk about uncrowded! Aside from the healthy group of people hiking Devil’s Kitchen, visitors were few and far between. In fact, I would have done more hiking, but the other trailheads I visited were empty, as in no other cars. As a solo traveler, I feel it’s unsafe to be alone on a trail, so I took in the sights and enjoyed walking around at the viewpoints.
May 10: Devil’s Kitchen in Colorado National Monument
When I arrived at Great Basin National Park the next day, I was disappointed that part of the Wheeler Peak scenic drive was still closed due to snow. I was looking forward to taking in the views and seeing the ancient bristlecone pines. Cave tours were limited to two per day, so I had missed out on that opportunity, too. I made the most of what I could see and especially enjoyed the Pole Canyon and Baker Creek areas. I’ll have to return with more time on my agenda in warmer months.
May 11: My best shot of Wheeler Peak in Great Basin National Monument
A few days ago, I arrived in South Lake Tahoe, just over the California border. As you probably know, this area experienced record snowfall this year. Some of the mountains surrounding the lake still have quite a bit of snowpack. It’s absolutely stunning!
May 14: Inspiration Point on Lake Tahoe
The downside is that all the state parks are still closed. I imagine they want to clean up all the winter debris before opening them. Many of the hiking trails are not yet accessible, either. The trail I planned to hike a couple of days ago was snowed in. After consulting with a local who assured me it was safe and relatively easy, I ended up hiking a nearby trail to Eagle Falls and Eagle Lake. Most of the path was packed snow, so the route was easy to follow. The views were incredible, and I was thankful for the beautiful Mother’s Day experience. What else would I rather be doing on my special day?
May 14, 2023: Hiking to Eagle Lake near Lake TahoeMay 14, 2023: Eagle Lake
Yesterday, I met a California friend for a snowshoe outing near Donner Pass. Once again, the weather was perfectly clear, and the views were fantastic. As the temperatures climbed into the 60s, the snow became more difficult to navigate. The trip back proved challenging, and I felt fully satisfied with the day’s workout.
May 15, 2023: On top of the World in our snowshoes near Donner Pass, California
Additionally, due to the high snowpack in northern California, I took Yosemite off my itinerary entirely. I’ll have to keep it on the bucket list for a future visit.
So, shoulder season travel in the Western states? My vote is a resounding YES! I can’t think of anywhere else I’d rather be.
Update: May 26, 2023
Every time that I think I have enjoyed my last day of fun in the snow, another opportunity appears.
As I continued working my way north toward Oregon, I first ran into snow in Lassen Volcanic National Park. I just snow hiked a few miles on May 19th, but again, I was fortunate to experience yet another bright sunny spring day!
Sulphur Springs at Lassen Volcanic NP
On May 20, I stopped at Mount Shasta, and the woman at the tourist office recommended that I snowshoe to get the most enjoyment out of my day on the mountain. She told me about a less-popular location where I snowshoed to a beautiful clearing and had the mountain all to myself!
Mount Shasta
A couple of days later, on May 23, I arrived at Crater Lake. Still tons of snow there! I have to admit, these are some of the best photos of the trip.
We all have those days when things don’t go to plan. Unfortunately, I am a planner. I like to think I can go with the flow, and sometimes I do. But I like having my travels at least sketched out in advance.
Today, in fact, I altered my original plan. A friend had told me about Canyon De Chelly National Monument. Visiting it would take me on a northward excursion out of the way. Still, I figured I had the time and love seeing those “less popular” National Monuments.
Hubbell Trading Post National Historic Landmark
I left Holbrook, Arizona, this morning and headed northeast. The first stop was the Hubbell Trading Post, a National Historic Landmark. There’s a visitor center, and parts of the old trading post are open for visitors and shopping.
The inside of the trading post preserves its original charm with modern goods.I love the baskets on the ceiling of the trading post!Hubbell Trading Post Rug Room
Since I’m a nomad, shopping is not really my thing. But I bought a few gifts, so I have to admit the trading post was pretty cool.
I then continued north to Canyon de Chelly National Monument. When I arrived, it was CLOSED because of flooding. The police officer who was blocking the road said I could go up and around to the other entrance adding 90 minutes to my drive. It would be even further in the wrong direction, so I decided against the idea.
I backtracked south (one of the least scenic stretches of this trip) and stopped to top off the tank. When I went inside, the bathrooms were CLOSED, out of order. What was going on?
I eventually made my way to Red Rock State Park near Gallup, New Mexico. It was 2:45 when I reached the park office, but it was—you guessed it—CLOSED. The posted hours were 8:00-4:00, but a little sign said, “Will return at 8:00.” It was also the strangest state park I’ve ever visited. It looked more like a state fairground with rodeo facilities. Besides Hubbell Trading Post, it had been a day of disappointment. But, as a friend once said, “You can turn a bad day around at any time.”
There were two hiking trails, so I could make something good of the afternoon. I decided to hike Pyramid Rock. A young man came off the trail when I arrived, so I asked him for the report. He assured me it was beautiful and not very far to the top.
The beginning of the Pyramid Rock hike
It was a short (3.4-mile roundtrip) but highly scenic hike.
Signs along the Pyramid Rock Trail encourage hikers at every quarter mile.
When I arrived at the top of Pyramid Rock, I had the space to myself, every hiker’s delight! The day of closed doors ended with a massive open space and marvelous views, just for me.
Sign at the top of Pyramid RockOne of the views form the top of Pyramid Rock